Hello again everyone. It's been a while and I hope that all is well with you. I have been working on my layout intermittently while I have had to deal with some other things, but now I am back on it now and hope to get the least few details completed over the next 2-3 months.
I am still somewhat dissatisfied with the fact that some of my Bachmann turnouts (1 #6 and 1# 5 in particular) are still having some derailment problems. Aftaer I replaced those particular turnouts, the number of derailments dropped dramatically...but every so often, one happens.
I want to effectively deal with this once and for all if I can.
I use Bachmann nickel silver EZ track on my layout. I am focusing more and more on that plastic frog. I know that when the wheels of a car pass over that one plastic piece, they rise slightly and I am pretty sure that this is what is causing this. I found an excellent article in Model Railroading article which has persuaded me that the inside face of the plastic frog probably needs to be slightly filed but before I do that, I should probably check everything with an HO scale track gauge.
Does anyone know where I can get a HO scale track measuring gauge? Any other thoughts that you have on this subject would also be appreciated.
Thank you to all, as usual. I hope that all of you enjoy a Happy Thanksgiving.
P.S. - For those who had been following my progress on my layout, I have finally completed the truck-rail terminal and am installing it today. I have already installed three operating diesel horn modules...a different one for each of the 3 tracks that can be manually triggered. I am also in the middle of installing operating RR crossing signals at the two crossings...Tomar signals with Circuitron circuit boards.
The NMRA H.O track gauge is a essential tool of model railroading and as such should be available at any of hobby shop that carries a fair degree of railroad equipment.
In case your not sure heres what your looking for.
(http://i293.photobucket.com/albums/mm50/lkemling/100_1429.jpg)
Brad,
The gauge will tell you some things, but I am led to believe that it is when the actual truck runs over the frog is when the problem occurs.
If you don't think you can see enough by running a single car over the frog, then just take one truck (buy a new set or one off a car) and run that over the frog by hand.
This will actually tell you what the problem is and exactly where you need to file the frog.
It's that simple.
Thanks. Using just a truck sounds so simple...
...now why didn't I think of that?
I guess that it was too much like right...
...good answer! That will tell me exactly where the problem is with the frog.
the truck is a great idea, i do that all the time myself, but it is no substitute for having a standards guage. the truck alone won't tell you if your track is in guage, in fact by using the truck you are assuming IT is in guage. that's not a safe assumption to make. the guage will not only tell you whether your track is in guage, it will tell you if your wheels are in guage, and if the flangeways of the frog are properly spaced. and don't forget the guard rails opposite the frog. their flangeways must be the proper width as well. too wide there, and your truck will pick the frog and derail. by all means, do yourself a very big favour, buy the guage and checque ALL of the above.
guard rails that are too wide can be shimmed with strip styrene to achieve the proper spacing. filing a frog out that isn't the problem will ruin your switch. before you assume anything , checque it with the guage.
Brad,
Here is something that Jeff said..."guard rails that are too wide can be shimmed with strip styrene to achieve the proper spacing. filing a frog out that isn't the problem will ruin your switch. before you assume anything , checque it with the guage."
He is correct. Check the gauge first. If that is ok, do not file the frog.
Get Evergreen styrene strips, part # 106 measures 0.10x0.60. If the guard rail is an inch long, cut your strips two inches long and glue to the guard rail on the side facing the stock rail and away from the frog. Let it dry for 24 hours and then trim to size. This forces a wheel set, about to enter the frog, to sit closer to the stock rail(two most outside rails on any turnout) and will better align the truck to the frog. I did this with my Peco turnouts and now have no derailments or hear the wheels banging against the frog. I back 10 - 15 cars thru turnouts in my main yard and my mine area with no problems.
Brad
To quote an over used quote. "I feel your pain". I have been laboring over these switches over several months. I have gone back and forth. And back again. And again on what to do. I still at this very moment am convinced I can fix this EZ-track problems and move forward. I have the same switches and also the DCC crossover switches too. And thanks to the very kind and patient people here I have manage to get just about every switches to behave properly. I use the height gauge and i also use the "Truck" idea as well. But good luck!
ebtbob
I like the idea you have may try it. Do you have any pictures?
Robert
Brad,
I can take some pix for you. If I get them on my Flickr account and can get them here, fine. If not, I will ask you for you email addy so I can send to you direct.
My e-mail address is Bradfordtalamon@att.net.
I had problems with my EZ track #5 turnouts . 2 of them had slight camber " hump" at the frog . I.E the grey road bed had a crown . also I stopped some derailing issues .I had too many short pieces of track together to make the diversion from the 22" rad to the 18" rad. this caused peaks and valleys .due to the track not matching up . also I found that one of my rails was loose from the road bed . also coming out of the curve ,with different length rolling stock . my sd-40-2's didn't like it at all going from the 22" to the 18" threw the #5 turnouts . my loco's would make it threw one direction but not the other until I made adjustments and got rid of the short pieces . although I did need the 2 1/4 straight and clip the edge so it would fit . you will see if you cram to many short pieces in one area of EZ track you will have problems . threw trial and error . I finally got it .
Brad,
I have not forgotten you and your request for pix of my turnout fix using styren, glued to guard rails. Just have not had a chance yet.
Good Evening All,
If you go to www.flickr. com and look up my name, you will find four pictures showing how I do the styrene shim on the guard rail of a Peco turnout to prevent derailments. This method is good for any turnout, the only difference may be a different adhesive may be needed if you are gluing plastic to metal.
Thanks for this Pictures
Robert
Quote from: mf5117 on November 24, 2009, 06:06:39 PM
the track gauge helped .but the money i spent on it i could have bought another turnout . it's a good tool to have . but you don't know if they were but on monday mourning or late friday afternoon
think of it as money well spent. like a set of files and small screwdrivers, it is a must have tool in this hobby. without the guage, you are only guessing whether the problem is track or wheels, with the guage you know for sure.
your absolutely right jward .and I also believe the gauge is a must tool . I use it alot . on older rolling stock checking wheel trucks , flanges . Building scenery tunnel heights and the use goes on and on . Oh and the EZ track #5 tunout was $5.00 more than the gauge . excuse me if the post seemed misleading .it wasn't ment to be .....happy holidays mark f
Can you show a picture or diagram of your layout?
This would be to look for "S" curves, which are notorious for causing derailments.
When I run my steam engines at the local hobby shop, thier layout has the nickle silver Ez track with two crossovers that put the point end of the turnouts right after you come out of the curved portion of the layout, every steam engine with a 2 wheel pilot truck will have that truck pick the point rail where it meets running rail. This is due to the square end of the point rail and the fact the running rail isnt notched to allow the pint rail to fit flush into it. You can either file the tip of the point rail at a 45' angle, or notch the running rail which is much harder to do without damaging the ties or roadbed. A redesign is really needed from Bachmann on thier turnouts. Even thier own NKP Berkshire's will pick the points and derail. Sometimes even rolling stock will pick the points. I have never had problems with the frogs. Yes all the wheelsets are in gauge and the turnout is in gauge as measured with a NMRA gauge. Mike
Robert:
I saw the pics. This fix on the turnouts looks easy...and it is so logical and it looks so simple!
I am confident that it will solve my derailment problem
Thank you.
Brad, and others,
Glad I could be of some help.
I have a problem with one left hand turnout on my ON30 layout. It is a Bachmann DCC turnout #44130 (18" radius left turnout). The problem I have is with the Bachmann 2-6-6-2 loco I just received. I love the loco but it hates this turnout. If I try to run it straight through, when the loco turns left and goes down around the curve I have set up there it is fine. I have run the loco very slow through the turnout (going straight) and the loco's front two wheels seem to pass through o.k. but when the front truck hits it the wheels seem to ride up and to the left and the derailment occurs. I can run the 4-4-0 American I have through it fine, no problems, it's just when I try to run the 2-6-6-2 straight through the turnout rather than turning to the left that the derailment occurs. I'm at a loss. I have run a Code 100 rail gauge over the rails and it looks to me like the rails going into the turnout (these are straight rails) are not in gauge (very tight if at all in gauge), yet the 4-4-0 runs fine straight and switching left. Anyone have any ideas?
if the guage is tight, then you are out of guage. you need to find a way to widen the guage at that point. on roadbed type track this would be more of a problem. with regular track you can remove the molded spikes at the narrow part, and shift the rail over and spike it in guage. but with the plastic roadbed, your spikes probably won't hold well enough to keep it in position. maybe you could make some sort of guage bar out of styrene?