Hi All,
What glues do you like the best for the following;
A: Wood - I'm assuming Elmers wood glue here!
B: Resin kits
C: Plastic injection molded kits
D: Hydrocal kits
If you use CA, do you use the accelerator? Do you use fast set, slow set or regular?
Thanks in advance!
Bruce
BKJ,
I too use Elmer's Carpenters glue for wood kits. For plastic I use Testors that comes in a "diamond" shaped bottle with a metal applicator neck. The bottle is black. They have another glue called clear plastic glue that comes in the same styled bottle, but is white. I use gap filling acc and do use the accelorator in certain cases.
Thanks Bob!
I'll try the Testors that you recommended.
I use Zap-A-gap for everything with good results, it is slower setting. The only place I dont use it is around clear plastic the fumes will fog it, unless you want foggy windows.
NM
I use normal tacky glue (gold bottle) for wood and metal. For plastic I use the Testors stuff previously mentioned.
Thanks all! It's great to get "seasoned" info from those who have experienced it!
Narrow Minded,
Foggy windows is why the Testors Clear Plastic Glue is a good choice, providing you are making a plastic kit as I doubt it will adhere to wood or plaster.
Bob,
I use gorilla glue for the windows works well, there are no hurricanes or tornado's to worry about here.
NM
Quote from: BKJ on December 30, 2009, 02:01:54 PM
Hi All,
What glues do you like the best for the following;
A: Wood - I'm assuming Elmers wood glue here!
B: Resin kits
C: Plastic injection molded kits
D: Hydrocal kits
If you use CA, do you use the accelerator? Do you use fast set, slow set or regular?
Thanks in advance!
Bruce
Hi Bruce,
My preferred glues are as follows:
Wood: Either Titebond (a bit stronger than Elmers white) or CA (thin or medium-gap filling), depending on the circumstance, although for my R/C boats I usually use epoxy for it's extra strength and water resistance.
Resin kits: Because the resin pieces are prone to warp, especially in thin, flat sections, I try to avoid resin kits in most cases. But when I can't do that, I use CA.
Plastic Kits: Testors Model Master (in the square black bottle), Vollmer (in the clear glass bottle), or Weld-on 4. The first two are medium viscosity, the Weld-on is very low viscosity, and tends to evaporate from the container before you can use it. I have also used Plastic-Zap, but usually lose most of it due to drying up in the bottle.
Hydrocal Kits: Another type of kit I try to stringently avoid, because in the heat and humidity of South Florida where I live, the plaster tends to disintegrate and crumble. Epoxy is the only thing I have found that bonds pieces of Hydrocal together acceptably, though I haven't tried Gorilla glue, which may also work, but tends to foam up into places where you don't want it!
Hope this is useful,
Bill
Quote from: railtwister on January 02, 2010, 11:22:34 AM
...the plaster tends to disintegrate and crumble.
Well that would be good for ruins I guess!?!? ;D
Thanks Bill and all!
Try this very useful website--www.thistothat.com. It gives great info and suggestions on what to use when gluing different materials to each other and other materials (thus the website name). I've used it often.
Slow set CA for nearly everything except trees and ground cover [I use matte medium concentrate from Scenic Express-diluted of course]. MicroMark has a nifty gluing jig...
http://www.micromark.com/MAGNETIC-GLUING-JIG-10-1and4-SQUARE,7038.html