I have a small fleet of bachman Conrail E33s, and i was hoping i could renumber them and change some of the "factory decals" around. I want to change to change the numbers and relocate the Conrail logos.
These Conrail units have a different paint scheme than the model does, and besides, they can't all be #4603. I tried some 91% alcohol but it didn't seem to dent the white numbers.
Is there anything that will remove all the lettering but leave the blue paint underneath untouched?
Try using a pencil eraser, if that does not work use an ink eraser.
Alcohol used to be what I used, but it doesn't seem to put a dent Bachmann's lettering these days.
I have tried a number of the old stand by's and it seems anything that removes the lettering also affects the paint under them.
NM
I've used 409, the multi-purpose cleaner, with some success, but don't let it soak. You might consider masking the area around the number, removing number AND the paint behind it, repaint with a color that is "close enough" and re-number with decals. It will look like the railroad painted out the old number for what ever reason and replaced it, which is exactly what you have done. Also, if you have a steady hand, you can change 4603 to 4608 without too much trouble. Good luck.
Old Timer
The eraser took care of the numbers easily enough, but they did not do so well removing the lettering and logos, which were over rivet details and such.
the final bit of lettering i need to correct on the one model is the "Conrail" lettering across the nose. it is situated to low on the model, it should really be between rungs of the nose grab irons, not below them. However, there is no way i could easily get an eraser in there without damaging the model and doing an incomplete job.
I could try some of these other things, but i kind of wish bachmann made an undecorated E33. it seems like more trouble than its worth to re-work the lettering, and i'm not to crazy about stripping the thing and starting from scratch either.
CAB_IV,
On my Bachmann locos, I used a toothpick dipped in fingernail polish remover. It's caustic stuff, so just a tiny bit will do. I rubbed gently for about 10 minutes on each number. I did not remove the paint under the number. Not a recommended practice, but it worked for me.
Regards,
Jonathan
Another substance I've heard modeler's use is 'Goo Be Gone'. Use with a cotton swab and rub. Never tried it though so you'll have to experiment.
Fingernail Polish Remover is basically acetone this is also a solvent for Cyanoacrilic Glue
(superglue). I used to keep a supply at work for unsticking fingers whenever using C/A glue. I now have a quart can of acetone in the shop for about the same purpose . If using it , wash hands soon and apply as moisturizing cream, acetone tends to dryout skin .
John II
Goo Gone has worked for me in the past, but did not seem to work on a Linville river box car, neither did the Super Strength Goo Gone. Tried superclean and that didn't work either, even after soaking for a while. I ended up spraying the entire car Oxide Red after removing as much of the lettering as I could with 400 grit wet dry sandpaper. The newer products must have a new formula of paint for the lettering. I some cases the paint around the lettering came off but NOT the lettering.
Now days I always assume I will have to repaint the entire car or loco, If i get lucky and don't have to all the better!!
Extreme care must be used with Acetone, as it will attack and craze bare plastic. On some cars/locos there is no paint under the lettering, so check carefully before using the acetone.
Good luck with your project
I also get nervous with Acetone. It has hurt some of my more valuable models.
This photo should give you an idea of what i want to do (as compared to a stock bachmann model behind it), since 4608 is just about finished.
The only thing left to change is the move the "conrail" logo on the nose to a different height. This looks like a tough spot, but if i am careful with the acetone, i'm sure i could get it off. Still, i think i should find something to experiment on first.
On a side note, for anyone who wants to make their E33s more authentic, the Conrail "Snail" is actually longer on the pictured side of 4608 than the other side. This is because of that J-shaped blower duct for those of you familiar with the engine. the logo is cut short at that duct.
(http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/6774/catenarymodelworkandvalk.jpg)