Hi...my first post here and trust me, it's a dumb one.
My son's love of watching trains since he was 9 months old has come come somewhat full circle. Last year we purchased a few used (and inexpensive) engines and freight cars that had seen quite a bit of track time in their day. Plus, as newbies and trying to set up Atlas Conventional Track on a medium sized carpet, we felt maybe we got into the wrong hobby. But we did get two seperate trains going in this manner and our son had a smile from ear to ear watching these life like trains in his house, but for some reason (hmmmm) the track kept falling apart. This drove us nuts but we got into this with no idea what to do, so I guess you get what you expect when you haven't done the research.
Well, this year we dove head first into DCC and Bachmann E-Z Track. We got a couple new engines (GP 35's) and grabbed a new EZ Command controller and track (plus a switch for a siding as he said we really need to have that........."so it begins"). Well, it was great to watch these newer engines run seperately and controlled with a single controller.
Well, next thing I know we have to 'have' the same cars and engines that are on the DVD, not to mention a companion controller, pedestrian bridge and house that's being built (you'd understand if you saw the instructional DVD). If it's not in the DVD, he doesn't want it. No big deal really as there aren't too many cars in the DVD. But this video must have been done a few years ago as some of the cars are near impossible to find. A "red" DCC GP40 Santa Fe? a Maine Central Flat car w/no load? I've searched everywhere but no sign of them. Is there a list of Bachmann train stock that goes back to whenever this DVD was made? I just need to know when these were made and IF they truly are discontinued and gone for good.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAin_nEMHlY&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Xb9w9on05g&feature=related
(flat car is later on in this video)
That's our model train story to date. Hopefully it continues with this fine hobby.
Thanks for any help...
The yellow Chessie that came with My EZCommand is #4139 but video is 4132. However I believe the video dates back to 2003 or 4 so you might not find thr exact same locos now.
Ah, what a great little DVD it is! I have it. Saw it about 10 times. Just have a look around on the site's HO scale Products section to see what structures, electronics, locomotives, and rolling stock are still around. You will find a lot of train sets have some of the equipment not up for individual sale. I know how that is, although not a parent (I am only 14), but an uncle, I do know how it sounds when a 3-4 year old whines for things impossible. :D At least, there is more hope in filling this request. ;) Unlike my nephew's request of getting a full size steam locomotive! :) At least they can dream...
Cheers,
Joshua
Just a quick tip: don't set up non-roadbed track (i.e. Atlas) on carpet; it won't end well. But you usually can get away with E-Z track on carpet as long as you don't have a dog or cat. Also, many things pictured may only be available as part of a train set and were never made available individually. For these, you may have success with ebay, and most will not be available in the exact same number or paint.
yeah If you have room you should make a table out of 4X8 plywood to run the trains on and good deal on the dcc We have 7 engines about 30 freight cars and 6 passenger cars and my 5yo loves it
riff -
You may not need the exact same equipment. Assuming your son can't read yet, you could, for example, use any red flat car to fill in for the one on the DVD. If it has a load, simply demonstrate to him how cool it is to put the load on the flat car, transport it to another location, and then unload. He'll forget all about the empty flat car soon enough.
You can find replacement cars on ebay, go motor bids or perhaps in the used stuff section of your local hobby shop (usually referred to here as LHS).
Welcome to model railroading and the Bachmann bulletin board. That goes for both you and your son.
-- D
Thank you all for the welcome, tips, and possible DVD dates :) I kind of figured it was a bit dated.
It's amazing what this kid of ours can pick up off that DVD. And he's just turning 5. I swear he's watched that disc 100 times and practically knows each car and engine by heart; yes their numbers too. The Engines haven't been a huge deal as most still look the same and numbers are close. But I won't hear the end about the GP40 Santa Fe until I literally repaint it red and silver. Nahh, he's not that bad. A blue and yellow Santa Fe is better than NO Santa Fe. I think he's getting my point. He browses the Internet with me to see all that's out there. He only wants about 90% of it. No sweat, son. Sheesh...
But the nice thing is when I show him that certain things can't be found, he actually understands that. Doesn't like it, but understands. But as a parent, who can be a bit of a trickster when junior's not around, I thought I might pull a rabbit out of the hat by posting some thoughts here. It seems I want to know and understand as much as he does. This is one fine community from what I've seen in the replies already and I truly thank you all for all the insight. Some good do's and don'ts. I should've been on here a year ago!!
Oh yeah, and we just got our first Spectrum Steam Loco 2-10-2, DCC Equipped. Real nice looking engine. I thought that would be nice to have as well. "Why is there no sound, Dad?" Uh oh... any one have any ideas how to put sound in one of these? I'm afraid to touch the thing wrong, nevermind installing sound. Do you lose DCC capability if it needs to be removed for sound? So lost on this one. Lots of hills and valleys with this perplexing yet enjoyable hobby.
Thanks again fine people!
Buy a Tsunami sound decoder with an 8 pin plug attached to the wiring harness, it is a direct replacement for the Bachmann decoder in the loco. Also, measure the tender free space inside to see what size speaker and baffle will fit; the speaker and baffle does not come with the decoder, both need to be purchased seperately. To remove the tender shell, remove all screws not associated with (holding) the trucks or couplers. If this seems like a daunting task see if someone at a local club or your local non-chain hobby shop can help you out and get you started. Or if you have deep pockets buy a loco that has factory installed sound.
That red santa fe really was a charm. A friend of mine has one and told me it was life like. It was too good to be lifelike in person. Turns out it was bachmann! If you could get your hands on one, go for it!
Quote from: jettrainfan on June 10, 2010, 02:45:38 PM
That red Santa Fe really was a charm. A friend of mine has one and told me it was life like. It was too good to be lifelike in person. Turns out it was bachmann! If you could get your hands on one, go for it!
Life-Like did produce a similar looking locomotive I used to have one but dropped it and it was not worth fixing, as I could get a replacement for it at the train show for $10. I still have the unpowered dummy though and if I ever get around ti changing the couplers I'll use it as part of a consist.
riff -
Be sure to use an enclosure inside the tender for your speaker or your sound will suffer a lot. And us the largest speaker which will fit. Often, an oval speaker is your best bet with trains as small as HO. Good luck.
-- D
Wow...you guys make it sound real easy to do. How tough should it be to unscrew some bolts on the tender and replace the decoder. Oh wait, maybe I should see what a decoder looks like first. I have yet to try and open a newer DCC engine. The more beat up DC ones we had before were kinda fun to tinker with and see what's inside, but these more recent ones 'seem' a little more solid, and I know I'd find a way to break something. But I'm game with the Tender. Room for the speaker and baffle as well....got it. I read somewhere that you have to drill holes in the tender for better sound. Is this true OR recommended? I'm dead if that's the case. I'm no handyman and I haven't touched a drill in eons. But until that's decided, I'll aim for a large, oval speaker. Is Tsunami sound the best? I see a few names out there...MSI, QSI, etc. Are some names pretty good? I'm sure something mid-range would be sufficient, and this young one might not care so long as he hears some cool "bells and whistles" (excuse the pun), with this steam loco.
You guys are a mountain of info. I can't thank each of you enough!
riff99, Tsunami is the manufacture for Bachmann Trains sound decoders. The others are good systems as well. It is not that difficult to add the sound. Decide what system you want and go for it. Some decoders need to have the speakers soldered on but basic soldering skills is all that is needed. It you decide to drill the Tender, use a hand drill and a very small diameter drill bit! This will help the sound however check your Tender, a lot of them are coming out with a place for the speakers molded in. I'm not sure how old your 2-10-2 is but I have two. One does and one doesn't. Follow the directions with your decoder. For Bachmann Trains, the eight pine plug is standard. Go for a decoder with the eight pin plug. It's as easy as removing the Tender shell, unplug the decoder and plug in the new decoder. The plug is designed to operate plugged in a certain way. If the controls work backwords, just remove the plug, turn it 180 degrees and plug it back in. Some decoders won't work at all backwords. Same thing just turn it around and plug it back in. If you have any problems or technical expertise is needed, contact Jim Banner on this board. He can walk you through anything electronic. Stephen
Riff, I can help you with the house under construction and the pedestrian bridge, however I haven't seen the video so I'm not sure either one of them are the correct ones:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=1402
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/products.php?act=viewProd&productId=1401
riff -
Put your speaker on the bottom of the tender, firing down. This will make it easy to build in an enclosure -- just a box sealing the speaker. Don't forget to seal the hole for the speaker wire (plastic-safe caulk works great). For holes, well, 3/16" would be good. I wouldn't go any smaller and 1/4" would be the max. The holes will be on the bottom so appearance isn't a big deal. I suppose you could plan the pattern in advance. Tiny holes must be used if you use an upward firing speaker through a coal load. I'm not convinced there's anything to be gained that way except too many headaches.
-- D
Sorry guys...first time back.
I'll for sure look for a tsunami sound decoder. Got a few pennies to save I see. But I'll definitely go with what's recommended. Heck, that's why I got on here. To hear what the experts have to say.
Thank You also Blink_182_fan. Great finds there!!
I may get some help with this from a family member visiting soon. He's good with soldering and what-not. Just gotta follow what ABC, Doneldon, and Stephen's instructions here to the "T". Tender screws found under tender for future work. Holes to be on the bottom...check. I'll see what I can do to make this enclosure happen. Great advice, thank you! I just needed to know the correct tools to get this done. Circle speaker should be fine should be easiest to find locally.
Two more questions please.
I see a BUNCH of Tsunami decoders. Do I want/need to have that heavy steam one for the 2-10-2? Also, we have Bachmann FT-A DCC EQUIPPED & a FT-B DCC EQUIPPED engines, that I'd really like sound in as well. Do I need two decoders for both A & B units, and if so, can you please tell me what Tsunami Decoder to look for. I always wanted one of these two tandem diesel sets, and I want it to sound as good as it looks. (if that's possible)
Thanks again good people! My best to you! Keep 'er on the rails...
The Bachmann FT-A/B's are not an easy install for a beginner because there is not an 8/9-pin socket and there is not enough room for a good quality speaker and baffle. But, what you can do is hard wire the decoder to the lead unit and permanently latch it to the B unit which you can remove the motor from to free up space for a nice sized speaker, then for extra pulling power you can add another A unit to the rear if necessary. To hard wire the decoder you'll need a soldering iron, solder/resin/flux, and a good knowledge of the locomotive. You will need to remove the board from the loco to install your new sound decoder.
My advice is to see if you can find a friend with experience hard-wiring DCC to guide you through your first time, if that is not possible hold off until you get a little more familar.
riff -
I think what ABC means is get a dummy A-unit and swap the shell with your powered B-unit. Then you'll have the entire empty B-unit for sound and the two powered, DCC-equipped A-units with no need to putz with decoders at all.
You should have an easy sound install in the empty B-unit. You might consider multiple speakers, oval speakers to maximize sound quality or base reflex speakers to accentuate lower frequencies. I'm not so sure you'll be happy with the results of putting sound in both A-units as you'll be eating amperage so fast that you might only be able to run those two locos before you overload your system. And I don't think you'll see a substantial improvement in overall sound with multiple sound units. Just my observation.
-- D
Ready and willing to adventure into new territory here. Great info ABC & -- D :)
I've started a search for a Dummy FT-A preferably in my Burlington colors, but I seem shut out in any search I try. Any ideas for places to find FT-A Dummy engine? I'll keep a lookin'.
Does an FT-A Diesel have a preferred Tsunami sound decoder I should look to buy? There seems to be a bunch and I can only guess which one will sound most realistic for that era.
Thanks as always!!
riff -
I'd go to various manufacturers' web sites to see who has Q FTs. Because of the huge number of railroads (well, years ago, anyway) many manufacturers only make certain road names, particularly for equipment which was as widely sold as were FTs. After a while a manufacturer may discontinue some or all roadnames and have a new release of the same models with different road names. Consequently, you may or may not find Q FTs as current merchandise. Butour case, the Q was a major Class 1 line so it has many followers. That almost certainly means something as common as an FT is either a current or former offering. So check manufacturer websites and Walthers to see if anyone is making Q FTs right now. If not, check ebay, online train shops which may still have prior releases (it helps if you have a manufacturer's name and part number for what you want) and the used section of your LHS. In your case, Bachmann has FT-Bs as current stock but it looks like only powered. Stewart does make dummy FT-Bs for the Q.
As far as sound, get the loco first. Sometimes decoders are optimized for particular locos; other times they are more generic. Your best plan would be to identify the loco first. Since it sounds like you have Bachmann FTs now, I'd second ABC and Steve Richards' suggestions of the Tsunami units. If you are putting sound into a dummy FT-B, you can use anything because it won't have to interface with the motors in your A units. You can use the same address for the sound decoder in the B as you use for the motion decoders.
Bachmann's Thomas the Tank Engine pedestrian overpass is current merchandise but at (ouch!) $30.00.
-- D
Wow...a "Q" FT now. There is a TON of terminology going on in this hobby that I seriously have got to find a "Model Train" Thesaurus :) I think I saw the word 'frog' in another post. I believe that too was something I should've paid more attention too, as I'm having a heck of a time with switch derailments and DCC switch shorts, but I didn't understand what was being said in that one post most of the time I read it. But that's a future post I fear. I at least now understand that a 'truck' has nothing to do with a Ford F-150.
I'll do some more searching for these Q FT's, Doneldon. A wealth of info that I'll be printing off no doubt. ABC's as well. Thanks for that link, ABC, but that price tag is a touch over my budget. Cool to know what you can find out there. I'll keep looking. And you're right...I'm no painter!
Thank you for finally letting me know about a Tsunami sound decoder for this unit. It sounds like there's a lot more range in choices than with the 2-10-2. I'll look into that when a 'Dummy' (another hilarious term) is located. I love this hobby!! I knew I'd eventually get to know a new language one day!!
Cheers, Gents!
Riff, a frog on a switch is sort of the middle piece of a switch. It's hard to explain. Maybe someone else here can explain it pretty well. With Bachmann switches, the frog is the plastic black piece where the track begins to seperate. Many people have had problems with shorter wheelbased engines, as the frog is "insulated" which means that no power runs through it, in which shorter wheelbased engines cannot pickup power from them, and sometimes stall.
Also, that's pretty funny about how the trucks on cars and engines don't have to do with F-150's :P
riff -
The terminology is just one of many facets of this hobby. For me, it's the variety of things to do and skills to master which distinguish model railroading from other hobbies. It's not enough to know how to assemble a model or paint it. We also have to know how to plan and install suitable track, build models from many different materials, deal with electricity and, increasingly, electronics, use many different techniques and materials to join pieces of our models, make scenery, paint with different techniques and equipment on a range of surfaces, do near micro-photography, do light (usually) carpentry, make minute adjustments to small but vital components like couplers and turnouts, and lots more. There's just no excuse for becoming a bored model rail.
-- D
ABC, I see another new Burlington DCC-equipped FT-A out there for a good price. I might just scoop that up and make it a secondary engine after the FT-B. I'm gonna see what's involved in removing everything but the weights, as you mentioned, and maybe see if I can use it to upgrade a DC GP 40. Then I hope to have the FT-B as my sound (gets more and more exciting as I just type this...whoa!). This is brand spanking new territory (what else is new), but if I just note everything I do, I may just pull this off. Fingers crossed....toes too!!
Doneldon...I'm nothing but a sincere fan those of you and other I've seen, that can take a simple train and make it come to life (more so than just turning a controller knob and letting it go). I have nothing but praise as I watch these trains head out into a virtual countryside sometimes getting so into watching each units go through incredible mountain tunnel scenes or through a cityscape as cars wait to carry on with their day. I rarely think of all the hours, day, weeks encompassed to make this all happen. The planning, painting, suitable track for every occurrence as you mentioned. It's practically art. Maybe one day I'll create something a tenth a good as some of the things I've witnessed, but to get there, my terminology lapse is the least of my worries. Just figuring out our simple carpet set is daunting enough. Constant derailments, coupler issues, lack of CV understanding. We all have to start somewhere with these layouts, understanding a good layout verses one that seems to cause endless headaches. I AM hooked to the hobby but it's too easy at times to walk away when the frustration level is beyond attaining the enjoyment I expect every time I hook up a new train on a new day. I look forward to when this kind of setup is in the rear view mirror and I can start a new level of reality with fine hobby. Lots of learning first though. I guess getting some 'frog' help is a step in the right direction :)
Thank you all again!
Quote from: riff99 on June 19, 2010, 04:09:14 AM
Wow...a "Q" FT now. There is a TON of terminology going on in this hobby that I seriously have got to find a "Model Train" Thesaurus :)
Cheers, Gents!
Riff;
Kinda surprised this hasn't been mentioned as yet, but here goes my 2 cents worth!
For great information, and even a glossary of terms, one website you should look in to is the NMRA, the National Model Railroader Org at www.nmra.org (http://www.nmra.org).
One the left hand side of the page under "Education" is a beginners guide. This is something that everyone new to the hobby should read. Also on that page is a section labeled "Community". Under that is Regions and Divisions. Here you can find the NMRA division that you are located in with contact information. This can lead you to local folks who may be willing to assist you with your projects.
Okay...heading that way right now. I hope more beginners see your message. Thank You!!
Finally got the lid off this B-Unit, and man, I have NO IDEA what to do next HA!! (I laugh because I want to cry). Doesn't seem like a lot of room for nothing. Think I'll find someone local to take this stuff out for me, but I'd LOVE to be by their side to see how they do it. Wow, nothing like opening an older DC. I'm gonna quietly reattach this lid now, then back away slowly from it.
I haven't read every single post here so forgive me if I'm repetitive...
riff99, its EXTEMELY hard to believe that you can't find the Santa Fe engine...when I was younger (mid 1990s) it seemed to me like red and silver Santa Fe engines (along with yellow and grey Union Pacific) were the only HO engines available, and being a kid on the East Coast, that was very disappointing to me, lol. I would have given anything for a B&O, Chessie, or WM engine back in those days (I always figured people on the west coast received east coast road names while we received only west coast road names...what's bad, I'm probably right about that!). I guess times change, though, don't they?
Anyway, is the engine number you are looking for #6067? If so, I HAVE IT! It was the second engine I ever owned, and came in a trainset called "Thunderbolt", I believe. It is NOT, however, DCC. I suspect many of those engines in that video have hoods from earlier locomotives, as I also own many of the cars from various other train sets I bought over the years as well. Bachmann didn't used to change their road numbers very much, but nowadays it seems they change them every year or so (just how many different numbered WM consolidations are out there now? I have three, lol.). Because of this fact, I'd say a used #6067 should be a piece of cake to find...although it was built as DC, I'm sure it would be simple to buy one for cheap and then switch out the hood onto a DCC equipped base, right (I think they're interchangeable aren't they?)? In fact, here's a link to one on eBay right now:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Bachman-Santa-Fe-Diesel-Electric-Loco-6067-2880-/250640139015?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item3a5b510307
Happy railroading...good to know we have another up and coming railfan in our midst. Starting him out early...he'll be a lifer! :D
Matty -
It makes sense that loco shells would be interchangeable, especially for units from the same manufacturer, but that's not always the case. The works get redesigned from time to time so you just can't be sure. Thankfully, it's usually not very difficult to adapt shells to fit frames other then their original frame.
-- D
Doneldon--
Personally I don't think 6067 has been done in DCC for public purchase, the locos on the video were probably built as test dummies with whatever shells they had laying around...if riff really wants that exact loco #, then he will have to try and make it work.
Exactly...I'll find a way to make it work. I did purchase one 4 days ago here:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150454518749&ssPageName=STRK:MEBDIX:IT
I thought I couldn't really go wrong with that price tag. If the shell transfers over to the DCC GP40, like I heard it should, then life is grand. If not, I'll try to see what's involved to make it happen. <shudders>
I hope Doneldon is correct about adapting shells. I do care about all this, or else I wouldn't have purchased the DC, but if it doesn't then I'm fine with that because I did get the best advice here than I ever would have figured out on my own.
One happy camper!! TY!!
Well....it seems to have adapted quite well, I think. "Better than the DVD!", my son actually said. Man, THAT was worth it for that comment. The only problem, how to get couplers on it. Newer version is definitely different than its predecessor in that respect.
I'm a terrible videographer as well but this is the engine finally in DCC...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5JRPYtNSEM
You will prob need to do some creative work with a handy dandy utility knife...you're right, the ends of the shell frame are molded differently. It prob won't be as difficult as you might think, but this is something you might not want to do with your son nearby since it involves a knife (unless its just that the coupler is too short...you might just need to get some couplers with a longer shaft...I saw your vid but I can't tell which problem you have.).
If I'm misunderstanding the problem, please let me know...
yes, that I did (have the utility knife at the ready). Seems I was able to extract the coupler boxes that were screwed into the main chassis. There was no where on screw it in on the new shell, so I just grabbed some modeler's cement and did my best to get in to stick (literally). I'll leave it the night and maybe longer to let it set. Looks good but I'm afraid of the height of it. It might be fine but we'll wait to see so when the time is right.
The video was just me showing that I actually got the new shell to fit well and to prove it is a Red & Silver GP 40 in DCC mode. She ran pretty well, IMO. Sorry, I should have zeroed in on the coupler issue as that seemed like the only problem left. I was just happy she was running. You should've seen the smile on a certain 5 yr old. Priceless!!
For the future purchase a coupler height gauge and NMRA standards gauge.
Quote from: riff99 on June 24, 2010, 06:15:47 AM
yes, that I did (have the utility knife at the ready). Seems I was able to extract the coupler boxes that were screwed into the main chassis. There was no where on screw it in on the new shell, so I just grabbed some modeler's cement and did my best to get in to stick (literally). I'll leave it the night and maybe longer to let it set. Looks good but I'm afraid of the height of it. It might be fine but we'll wait to see so when the time is right.
Does modelers cement come off easy? You should hope it does. If the coupler were to break, or like you said, the height isn't right, you need to get he coupler box off and replace and/or make adjustments. Also, your layout's looking pretty good so far. ;)
Kadee packages a #50 drill bit and a 2-56 tap in one envelope. This combination will allow you to use a pin vise to drill a hole in a plastic shell and then tap it to accept a screw to secure your draft gear box. Kadee also makes delrin (a type of plastic) 2-56 screws. In my experience, the #50 drill bit is just a whisker too small to be held tight in a 1/4" drill chuck. To drill metal, you can use a variable speed Dremel tool or get a special chuck that will fit an electric drill/screw driver.
Not recommended, but a 1/16" drill bit is just close enough to a #50 that in a pinch you can use a 2-56 tap in a 1/16" hole and get enough thread to hold the screw.
I don't have any Bachmann DCC diesel locomotives (I decided to stick with DC...for me, it was easier to stick with it since I literally have 200 DC locomotives...and I now appreciate the "bigger and better" DCC because it caused prices to fall on DC; also if i ever want a DCC loco, it will still operate on my DC layout, but I don't think it works the other way ??? ), so I guess I don't totally understand the problem. Are you saying that the coupler box was actually mounted to the DCC shell? I hate locos like that because they have trouble keeping coupled to cars when they hit curves. I think OldTimer's method is probably the best solution here, although some super glue, raw plastic, and your extracted coupler box could do the trick (an older gentleman from whom I acquired a large portion of my collection had a way of using card stock to make the coupler boxes fit to anything...he actually placed an operating coupler on a locomotive that had a dummy coupler...really knew his way around things!) . To figure the best height, you could always just put the engine against a freight car and compare to find where it should be located.
Unfortunately, I never imagined this problem...I can't believe Bachmann would do something so strange as to mount the couplers to the plastic...I thought only other inferior brands did that. ;)
I'm glad your son was happy with the new shell as is...at least you won't have to worry about fixing it again if it doesn't work out! Good luck! :)
riff -
Don't glue coupler pockets on. It's well worth the additonal time it takes to use screws. If you feel you must save time, skip the tap and use self-tapping screws.
-- D
To clarify, I actually only meant to glue the base of the coupler box to the locomotive, NOT glue the cover so that there's no access to the coupler if ever it needs replaced. I can't really think of any reason NOT to glue the base to the locomotive, I would think it would be sturdier that way, especially after you screw the coupler in. There really isn't any reason you would ever need the base to be loose again, unless you're scrapping the loco for parts or something.
Use your own judgement though. 8)
matty -
Gluing makes it impossible to add shims to adjust coupler height.
-- D
I know this next part was a little more expensive sort of ($15 for 12 sets), but I recently purchased some different positioned ez couplers. 1 pack centered medium, 1 under medium, and centered long. I just felt I wasn't good at adjusting these, so I try a lower coupler which usually helps things out.
Back to the train thesaurus...what's a shim? :-\
btw, tried the engine this morning with the cement holding its own. Now it pulled 1 car a few times around, then 2 cars, then 5. She did very well!! I wish I had a place to place the odd 300k pic to, but to describe how the coupler mounts are placed into their new homes, well it was almost meant to be placed there. Between the underside of the front and back part of the shell and the solid metal chassis is the perfect amount of room to cement the bottom side of the coupler mount that I unscrewed from the DC chassis. The cement seems to keep them in there solid, plus the fact that they're pinned between the front and rear ends on the underside part of the shell and the metal chassis; they're going no where. Picture an "L" upside down with the top of the the L being the bottom end of the coupler mount glued down, the bottom part sticks out the front and rear of the shell just as it did when screwed to its other chassis. Trust me, there is NO place to screw in any part of them. Where it sits currently glued to the shell, it's very thin from the underside of the shell to the upper part. If you screw it on, it goes right through the shell with two screw ends showing up in front of the cab and rear, no matter how small the screw. Not good. Cementing the piece in was my only option. I'm satisfied how it ended up. Now to find these darn adapters to compensate for the much bigger holes on the ez mate couplers that keep the coupler in place. Seeing them sliding in and out makes me cringe.
Now, the test of time to see if these couplers hang tough....
yeah matty, the couplers mount directly in the front and rear of the original blue and yellow shell for the DCC GP 40. Not great but maybe a bit better than cement ;)
Well, I'm glad it worked out to your satisfaction. btw, i believe the "shims" that Doneldon was referring to are the "cardstock" pieces that I mentioned...they are thin and allow you to adjust the coupler height in small millimeter increments when its necessary, but if it works how you have it, I wouldn't worry about it.
Quote from: mattyg1306 on June 22, 2010, 02:43:43 AM
Doneldon--
Personally I don't think 6067 has been done in DCC for public purchase, the locos on the video were probably built as test dummies with whatever shells they had laying around...if riff really wants that exact loco #, then he will have to try and make it work.
I believe that is correct on the DVD somewhere I remember it said that the EZ Command shown was a pre production model, so it would not surprise me to find out that the trains shown were also pre production or test models. However the only different I saw in the DVD and the EZ command I own is that the throttle knob is dark grey on my unit and not light grey as in the video.
That's hilarious because my son spotted that right off too...as usual I had no clue about the knob
riff -
Shims are very thin (like typing paper) pieces which are used to match the heights of couplers on different cars. Proper coupler height is critical to reliable operation. Note that the shims actually lower the height of the coupler because you are building down from the bottom of the car. One raises couplers by adding shims (thin washers) between the truck bolster (mounting) pad and the top of the truck.
More generally, shims can be used anywhere to adjust clearances or whatever. Their use, and the term, are not limited to model railroad coupler pockets or model railroading. For example, your car probably has many shims in places like front end parts, body mounts, hinges and so on.
-- D
Looks like I was right about the shims! ::)