For my fellow B&O enthusiasts:
I read a B&O Modeler article about making a B&O T Class loco from a Bachmann Heavy USRA Mountain. It got me motivated for some reason. Hoping to find an Undecorated Heavy Mountain at the next train show, imagine my surprise when I found two! And let's just say they were a bargain. I couldn't let them go.
I had to decide which 4-8-2 I was going to model. I have nothing against the T-3 or T-4. Yardbird carries the shielded compressors for the front. I didn't want to have to deal with the handrails. Looks like you'd have to be pretty precise with bending. Don't think I have the tools for that. Therefore, I went with the first two 4-8-2's delivered.
To modify the Spectrum, I need to move the headlight high on the smoke box, install a brass herald, move the bell to the side of the headlight, add a tool box to the pilot... OK enough lists. I'll just dive right in with the progress so far.
Smoke box
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3141.jpg)
The parts on the first Mountain were pretty easy to remove, not so on the second. Anyway, I really wanted a working headlight. So I clipped the LED from the front of the frame, mounted a metal sleeve inside the original plastic headlight, inserted the LED and done. Actually not that easy... had to drill through the smokebox to insert the LED stiff wire.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3140.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3151.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3152.jpg)
Once the wires are painted, it looks OK, but certainly a little unprototypical. Well I wanted the light to work afterall.
Here's a kind of before-and-after shot of one loco modified and one not modified:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3144.jpg)
On both locos, the fireman side window glazing had fallen out. Had to put 'em back:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3153.jpg)
Well, that's all the progress for now. The brass parts should arrive tomorrow. Then I'll install the pop valves, bells, tool box, etc. Here's a few extra shots. Will update as I make progress.
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3157.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3156.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3155.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3146.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3148.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3150.jpg)
Johnathon: The icing on the cake would be if you could track down one of those Vandy tenders from the Rivarossi 2-10-2's.
Ah yes. The tender problem...
I am working from front to back on this loco. Hence, I'm putting off the biggest problem until later.
The author of the article, that inspired me, was forced to remove the PC board from the loco so he could use the Rivarossi tender. What he didn't mention was that he also lost a working LED headlight and firebox glow. I don't want to give up those features.
When I find a proper tender, I want to perform major surgery and put the electronics from the Bachmann tender into the vandy tender. Apparently that is quite difficult.
My saving grace may be that B&O Mountains were delivered with regular tenders. They were later switched out for Vandy's, if I understood the article correctly. That's cheating a bit. Ultimately my conscience will get the better of me, and I'll have to try some sort of switch.
I seem to remember a thread in which Yampa Bob stated he was able to fashion some sort of bridge on one of his locos, so he didn't have to remove the board from his loco, and still able to run without the tender pick ups. I like that option.
Regards,
Jonathan
I have a Bachmann undecorated Vanderbuilt long tender and a Bachmann undecorated Hicken tender that I am not using. I could probably send them to you for $10 plus maybe $5 shipping. If you are interested let me know.
Quote from: jonathan on September 08, 2010, 01:19:27 PM
Ah yes. The tender problem...
I am working from front to back on this loco. Hence, I'm putting off the biggest problem until later.
The author of the article, that inspired me, was forced to remove the PC board from the loco so he could use the Rivarossi tender. What he didn't mention was that he also lost a working LED headlight and firebox glow. I don't want to give up those features.
When I find a proper tender, I want to perform major surgery and put the electronics from the Bachmann tender into the vandy tender. Apparently that is quite difficult.
My saving grace may be that B&O Mountains were delivered with regular tenders. They were later switched out for Vandy's, if I understood the article correctly. That's cheating a bit. Ultimately my conscience will get the better of me, and I'll have to try some sort of switch.
I seem to remember a thread in which Yampa Bob stated he was able to fashion some sort of bridge on one of his locos, so he didn't have to remove the board from his loco, and still able to run without the tender pick ups. I like that option.
Regards,
Jonathan
If you can find a Bachmann Vandy then use it, it will allow you to keep the features you need and no electronic surgery will be needed.
ABC, sent a personal.
S,
J
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3142.jpg)
Got message.
jonathan-
Moving the headlight made a huge difference, in my opinion. It goes a long way towards the new look.
-- D
Thanks, Doneldon!
Here are few more little tweaks: second smokebox is complete (sans bell) with mu hoses and tool box. I sure hope I kept the polarity right on the bulbs. Not quite ready for a test run yet.
Regards,
Jonathan
One headlight may look higher than the other, but it's all in your mind... :)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3158.jpg)
FWIW, many years ago I put a Rivarossi Vandy tank behind my Westside (brass) Q-4b. I replaced the plastic tender trucks with the big-flange wheels with brass ones. This was back in the days of CTC-16, so in order to put a receiver in the tender, I cut out the cast in coal load, and drilled a hole in the front for the wires. After getting the receiver in place and working, I took a piece of balsa wood and cut it fit in the coal bunker hole. I carved the top, painted it black, and glued model coal to it (I actually crushed a piece of real coal with a hammer, but you get the idea).
That loco must have been a real treasure. I remember seeing CTC operations in those Keller production video layout tours. I bow in your direction, sir.
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan-
Dadsbrasstrains has two Spectrum mountains on ebay right now.
-- D
Hopefully, two Mountains will be enough. ;D I only have room for a 40-43 car train on my layout. I'm hoping these two locos are heavy, and strong, enough to pull that size train. I'm guessing they will be...
I took #5500 on a test run this morning. After a minute or two, it was smooth and sure, as all my Spectrum's have been to date. Before running her, I took off the contact plate to inspect the gears and axles... plenty of oil and grease as usual. I neolubed the rods and valve gear. Looks good and seems to be well lubed as a result.
I've said before... I am very impressed with Bachmann and their locomotives; affordable and great runners.
She's a heavy beast (cast boiler).
About the headlight...
It's BLUE! :o Well THAT's a little different than what I'm use to.
Well, it's nice the light goes off in reverse (guess that's one benefit of LEDs). And you know I put a back up light in the tender.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3147.jpg)
Working on getting some Vandy's at the moment.
Camera is down for now. Once that' resolved, I should have two broken-in Mountains ready to pull a long consist. Will try to get a video, although I'm not very good at it.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on September 11, 2010, 06:38:33 AM
Hopefully, two Mountains will be enough. ;D I only have room for a 40-43 car train on my layout. I'm hoping these two locos are heavy, and strong, enough to pull that size train. I'm guessing they will be...
I took #5500 on a test run this morning. After a minute or two, it was smooth and sure, as all my Spectrum's have been to date. Before running her, I took off the contact plate to inspect the gears and axles... plenty of oil and grease as usual. I neolubed the rods and valve gear. Looks good and seems to be well lubed as a result.
I've said before... I am very impressed with Bachmann and their locomotives; affordable and great runners.
She's a heavy beast (cast boiler).
About the headlight...
It's BLUE! :o Well THAT's a little different than what I'm use to.
Well, it's nice the light goes off in reverse (guess that's one benefit of LEDs). And you know I put a back up light in the tender.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3147.jpg)
Working on getting some Vandy's at the moment.
Camera is down for now. Once that' resolved, I should have two broken-in Mountains ready to pull a long consist. Will try to get a video, although I'm not very good at it.
Regards,
Jonathan
They will be able to pull that no problem.........
Even up a 1% grade?
R,
J
Jonathan, I recall reading somewhere that you can paint a blue-white LED with translucent yellow-orange paint and warm up the light. Never have had occasion to try it, but it sounds like a reasonable tip.
OldTimer
Thanks, OT.
I may have to try your tip to match the second Mountain. My locos must be from two different runs. #5501 has a warm-yellow LED!
Did the #5501 break-in this morning. It is smooth and quiet, just like #5500. Again, it took a minute or two for it to smooth out. This afternoon I did a quick pull test on #5501. It pulled 18 cars up a 1% grade like their was nothing behind it. My dastardly plans are coming together.
Next I'll perform a speed-matching test. Gotta double-head 'em in a long train in order to call this project a success.
Should have the camera back tomorrow, followed by some pics on Tuesday.
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan, I may be misunderstanding you, but if I'm not, then for the speed matching, you can just set them on the same track uncoupled, and turn up the power. Again, I thought with what you said to test speed matching that you would double head them. If that's not the case, then disregard everything I said. Also, it's looking good. You do good work on layouts and trains themselves. Do you have a YouTube account? You should and make videos of your layout and all of the projects you do ;)
Blink,
You are correct... setting them apart on the same line is how I check for loco compatibility.
Thanks for the compliments. I'm afraid at my age, I will never be comfortable with all the electronic forms of communication available (youtube, facebook, farmville, etc...).
It was all I could do to set up a photobucket account, which provides what I need: a way to share. My current career requires me to spend an inordinate amount of time in front of a screen. Don't want to do it at home. If my wife didn't check my personal email, I wouldn't know anyone was trying to reach me. I saw my first office computer at age 23. It was a monster with plate-sized floppy disks.
However, I have discovered the joy of finding a communication forum, 'talking' with friends who are passionate about a common interest.
Regards,
Jonathan
Here's another progress update.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3164.jpg)
I made a jig to hold the bells in place while I mounted them on the smoke box. Everything was good so I went to bed. The next morning, the bell on #5501 had shifted and then dried. I used epoxy. #5501 has given me fits from the beginning. Oh well...
Blow-off cocks:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3163.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3162.jpg)
I felt I had to compromise on the pop valves. A precious few B&O T Class Locomotives had pop valves in front of the steam dome. My two were among the few. However, since two pop valves were already mounted behind the dome, and I only had a couple pop valves left, they ended up in back.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3161.jpg)
Also my two locos should have a Nathan Top Mount Check Valve on top of the boiler. Cal Scale is out of them at the moment. So these locos will have side mount check valves until I can get the proper piece of brass.
Can I get an "Amen" for the Brakeman Hooches?! Seriously, that was hard...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3160.jpg)
Working the Vandy Tender issue. These two locomotives look pretty good, run fantastic and have been a lot of fun to customize. Will probably weather them just a bit when I get the right tenders. Soon as I get around to a full pull test, I'll make a video for your enjoyment... I hope.
Just picked up a pack of #158 scale head, whisker couplers. Going to test them out in front and rear on these locos. Will probably look good. But will they hold? We'll find out soon enough :)
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3165.jpg)
On a lot of the larger Bachmann steam I had to put long shank couplers in the front because the regular ones wouldn't fit. I don't remember if the mountain is one of them though, but I know the 4-8-4's are.
Good tip for future reference, thanks.
I found I had to file out the front gear boxes just a bit (the Kadees are a little thicker than the EZMates), but the #158's fit eventually. They are a visual improvement in my opinion. I liked it so much that I did it to one of my Connies as well. They seem to line up and center OK.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3167.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3168.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3166.jpg)
I am a little concerned about the small size of the head. If my trackwork is a little too bumpy, ucouplings galore. Will be testing soon.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on September 14, 2010, 05:05:17 AM
I am a little concerned about the small size of the head. If my trackwork is a little too bumpy, ucouplings galore. Will be testing soon.
That is why I don't use scale couplers, too many things get uncoupled one way or another.
I think you'll be OK. The vertical range of the coupler is just as high as the regular Kadee's. "Gathering range" (side-to-side swing and coupling ability, as when on a curve) are somewhat reduced, but coupling on curves, especially if they even resemble being sharp, is always problematical anyway.
Quote from: J3a-614 on September 14, 2010, 02:29:50 PM... but coupling on curves, especially if they even resemble being sharp, is always problematical anyway.
That's the one good thing about the much maligned talgo truck mounted coupler. On my small layout the talgo equipped cars will couple even on 18" curves. The couplers are aligned with the trucks which are at an angle which is the tangent to the curve at the center of the trucks. The two centers may be only a couple of inches apart so the two tangents are very close to alignment.
With body mounted couplers, the couplers are aligned with the curve tangent at the center of the car. Those tangents are two half car lengths, i.e. one car length apart and the angles are significantly different so the couplers are not aligned.
Robert
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4883673804_caf1e64116.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4883673932_99a944c40f.jpg)
Thanks, I'm feeling better about the scale head couplers now. Don't plan to do any coupling on a curve, especially with my big locos. The scale head couplers will be on the pilot, not the tender. These babies will be on 24" radius curves (minimum). I haven't had any uncoupling issues so far. Pretty much all my equipment has a #5 coupler or #148. There are a few outliers (Protomax or EZMate II). They usually run at the back of the train... just in case.
Regards,
Jonathan
As ABC stated "On a lot of the larger Bachmann steam I had to put long shank couplers in the front because the regular ones wouldn't fit. I don't remember if the mountain is one of them though, but I know the 4-8-4's are." On the Santa Fe most (if not all) road engines, you could not couple them together pilot to pilot.
Key music...
"It's beginning to look alot like B&ooooooo, everywhere you gooooo....."
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3171.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3170.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN3169.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
The tender looks good, but does the loco run correctly with it hooked up?
Quote from: ABC on September 15, 2010, 04:26:33 PM
The tender looks good, but does the loco run correctly with it hooked up?
As has been mentioned here numerous times, the easiest solution to the tender circuit board incompatibility issue is to
ALWAYS keep the circuit board with the locomotive.
In other words, swap not only the tender but the circuit board(s) as well.
Yes, you may have to do some minor kitbashing to the tender but so what? It's easy. Been there, done that, far too many times. :)
Initially, the loco did not run. Discovered there was no jumper plug (DCC ready). Took the jumper plug out of the original tender and plugged it in. Locomotive ran 'correctly' in forward and reverse. I do not yet know if the speed matches the other Mountain (with the old tender).
I will be faced with a decision. If the speeds don't match, I can either wait until I find another vandy long tender for the other loco, OR I can switch out the PC boards as rogertra suggests. The coal is still drying in the tender, so I'll have to wait until morning to reconnect the tender and run both locos.
If I do switch out the PC board, I will have to do it with the next vandy tender as well.
A little test running will help me decide. Thanks for asking.
Regards,
Jonathan
Sorry about that I had a decoder in the tender at one point in time, and removed the decoder when I decided I would not use the tender. I am not sure what I did with the jumpers.
It happens ;)
Roger,
You were absolutely right!
The locos were not matched during testing. So I swapped PC boards. #5500, with the Vandy tender now matches perfectly with #5501. It took about 2 hours to exchange the boards. It was well worth the effort as the loco with the vandy tender now purrs just like #5501.
I even found a few extra minutes to install a working reverse light in the vandy tender.
You can now proceed with the "I told you so's". ;D
When I get a vandy tender for #5501, I will perform the same surgery.
Regards,
Jonathan
After a recent question to Athearn, I was recently informed that they will soon (no exact date) be releasing the Vanderbilt tenders that are currently running with their Genesis SP Mountains. Perhaps, when they are released, they could be modified and work with your B&O 5501?
I believe it would be possible to put my PC board in their tender. The only drawback would be that their loco models an oil burner, not coal.
I have not seen an oil burning B&O 4-8-2 so far. Granted I haven't done an exhaustive research either. I suppose one could cut off the oil receptacles and glue coal to the top.
Thanks, Logan... some food for thought.
Regards,
Jonathan
Not a problem. I'd recommend cutting off the square coal top all together. A fellow club member showed me an interesting trick. He replaced most of the coal load in his tender with a black open sponge-like material, I think it was part of a fish filter or something, and then put just a little coal on top. This served as an escape rout for a top-firing speaker. The black sponge material looked good, and allowed the sound through very well, and the sprinkling of coal on top completed the look.
Jonathan,
I don't think the B&O ever had any oil-fired steamers. Are you familiar with B&O Power by Sagle and Staufer? It is a wonderful book and deserving of a spot in the bookshelf of any B&O modeller. I don't know if it's still in print. My copy is from the 7th printing (!) which was run off in 1980.
OldTimer
I'm sure Johnathon already knows this, but I'm posting it for others who read this thread and aren't B&O foamers. The two Mountains, 5500 and 5501, were built at Mt. Clare using the boilers from two Class S 2-10-2's. The left-over running gear became the basis for the two Class U 0-10-0 switchers. The boilers on the Class S locos was a bit smaller than on the S-1's. However, one could certainly get away with using an old Rivarossi S-1 boiler over the heavy Mountain mechanism. To be really correct, the second set of sand domes should be removed. The Vandy tenders for the Mountains appear to be the same type used on the S-1's, and you can sometimes find those Rivarossi tenders at the shows. Now, the big drawback is that the Rivarossi models have not been produced for a good long while. They do show up occasionally at the train shows, but are usually snapped up in short order. B&O modelers can use the superstructure and tender along with a new heavy USRA 2-10-2 mechansim to get a good-looking and good running engine. The Rivarossi models had the undersized drivers with the big flanges typical of the time, and used the 3-pole pancake motor so they weren't very good runners.
Re: B&O Power: It's a must have if you can find one. I have the first edition, which I paid $13.50 for! The dust jacket is getter pretty threadbare from constant use. The other book to look for is "Q", published by Barnhard Roberts. It is a paperbound book the covers every aspect of the B&O's Mikados.
Thanks ebtnut and Old Timer. I will keep an eye out for B&O Power. I've certainly heard enough about it in the past few months.
You are right. I did some research before I started on these locos. I realize my models have got a few dimensional problems. The Spectrum Mountains are a few scale inches under-sized. The domes aren't quite right, markers should be lower--the list goes on. I find myself choosing function over form most of the time.
The Spectrum Locos run very, very well. Likewise, the Spectrum Vandy Tender, while not an exact match, does perform quite well after the board change. Plus, they look pretty good. They are a reasonable facsimile for my layout. Let's not forget the most important part... They Pull A TON! ;D
Here's a couple of videos for your enjoyment. The train will creep much slower, but I didn't want to bore you. Also, I'm a little light on B&O rolling stock, which will change for certain. I've been concentrating on locos for the past year or so. Now it's time to start collecting some freight and passenger cars.
For you C&O fans, I have a little treat at the end. It wasn't necessary, but terribly fun! (The second video is better than the first. How did one Connie become two?)
Regards,
Jonathan
Click on the photographs to receive a couple minutes of my little heaven.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/th_DSCN3176.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/?action=view¤t=DSCN3176.mp4)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/th_DSCN3173.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/?action=view¤t=DSCN3173.mp4)
Addendum: I believe I've mentioned this before, but I'm using a point-and-shoot digital camera for my shots. It's takes terrible video. The jerkiness you see is the camera, not the trains. Thank you. jev
jonathan-
Thanks for the explanation about the jerkiness of your videos. I was afraid it was you and we'd have to have a little talk about cutting back on the sauce, if you take my meaning. Seriously, nice pics and a nice layout.
-- D
Thanks, Doneldon.
Since I work on my trains in the wee hours of the morning, there's no 'sauce' involved. :) My fun budget goes to trains, can't go in for the fancy cameras.
Layout is coming along. Lot's of unsceniced areas that need work.
Still looking for a long Vandy tender for the second mountain. I've found a few on line, but the shipping charges are so outrageous, I can't bring myself to order one. Timonium is coming next month. Perhaps I'll get lucky. That's a pretty big show.
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum: 9/22/10 - I have found an unopended, unlettered, Spectrum Long Vandy Tender for $30 USD (good deal, I think). While it is being shipped, I have removed the pc board from from the original tender and cut the necessary decals. When I have finished, I will submit the final post.
The black paint is chipping off the connecting wires, which exposes the color coding. Could be useful in the future. jev
OK, mission complete. I couldn't let the thread go without finishing.
Let's start with the storage boxes. I used two Acela passenger car boxes, as they were the right size to hold the locos without having to detach the tenders. From there I cut down the plastic and foam to fit the boxes:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3178.jpg)
Now I can safely store the locos in the winter, and if I ever have to sell them, I will have some sort of Spectrum box. I used the Vandy Tender boxes for the original Mountain tenders. Perhaps someone will want them someday... with vandy tender pc boards. ;)
#58 couplers in front, #148's in the back. Reverse lights work. I'm still looking for a pair of Nathan Double Top Feed Check Valves to complete the boilers. They'll show up eventually.
Still not brave enough to attempt weathering a steam locomotive. They're so nice and clean...
For the curious, the total cost of the project was approximately 260 USD. That included the locomotives, Vandy tenders, brass parts, couplers, bulbs, and dullcote. Other details were made from my scrap box. If that sounds expensive, consider this: brasstrains.com has a Precision Scale B&O T-4 available for $1720 (ka-ching). It's beautiful and perfect. I could never put it on my layout and run it.
I've established that these babies run well, so I won't torture you with one of my bad videos. However, here are a few shots of the completed locos (below).
As always, thanks for your help and advice.
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3183.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3179.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3184.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3186.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3185.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3188.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3189.jpg)
i use acela car boxes to hold my pcm t-1
They look good!
Of course, these engines, at least initially, were passenger locomotives on the B&O; it's likely they would have been used in freight service later on.
Out of curiousity, are you planning on picking up some B&O passenger cars and perhaps other passenger power? That classic blue and grey paint looked good on any passenger car (wish my C&O had used it!), and a number of available models, including Walthers' current heavyweight coaches, are based on B&O prototypes.
Thanks, J3a, and...
YES!! I couldn't afford it at the time, but my LHS had some gorgeous B&O passenger cars; the kind where you pass the wand to turn on the lights. Man, they were expensive. I'm pretty tapped out with all the locos and freight I've picked up lately.
I do have a small siding station and the obligatory UNION station for the passenger service. This is a twenty-year project, and I'm only into year four.
First I want to try a couple resin kits (wagon top boxes). Need to build my freight service first.
Again, I must confess I'm stretching history a bit. These two locos were scrapped in 1953, but they will live until at least 1960 on my layout (rule #1).
The real issue I'm working on right now is scenery. I need to put some real B&O mainline spots on my layout; especially for photo ops. You know, Falls Cut, Sand Patch, Cumberland, M&K Junction, etc. Gotta figure out what will fit... Well... what will be easy to model anyway.
Regards,
Jonathan