I bought 2 left and 2 right switches hoping to set up a test layout with 2 through sidings. Got it all put together and as soon as I flip the left switch on one of the sidings, the train stops. Tried the other siding, same thing. I asked a question in another forum, but I must have phrased it wrong because they told me a needed gaps and a 2nd power connection. I then happened to see a set with a siding and asked the guy at the hobby shop if there was any special wiring needed, He said "No", so I started fiddling.
I finally found I need to flip the other switch first and it all works, sort of, it only works intermittently. So I took the back off and saw a bunch of wires that looked like strays coming off the electromagnet. They were all attached, so that wasn't the problem. Tried it again, no luck. Took another switch apart and they looked pretty much the same. I did see a red wire that looked like a problem, so I changed its position a bit. Got it all back together and it all works, except for one that doesn't seem to want to stay set. As the train passes over, it moves about 1/16th of an inch or less each pass and eventually moves enough to cause a derailment. Is there anything simple I can do to make it stay in place? I haven't looked at it yet, so i might be able to figure something out, but I wanted to ask first.
BTW, I know I can wired the switch remotes together to flip both switcheds at the same time, but just haven't gotten that far.
Bachmann turnouts are power routing, so only one route gets power, depending on your layout and what you want to do, you may need to supply power to one or both of the routes.
Quote from: ACY on January 06, 2011, 08:23:50 PM
Bachmann turnouts are power routing, so only one route gets power, depending on your layout and what you want to do, you may need to supply power to one or both of the routes.
I undestand that and also what power blocks are. I'm new to E-Z Track though and just didn't know why it didn't work at first. But it works fine now, so that part is okay. I guess I'll take the offending switch apart tomorrow and see why it's not holding the setting like the others do. I'm still trying to decide if I want to stay with E-Z Track or move on the something else before I get too much money tied up.
Before getting more track or building your layout, decide desired performance. If you plan on an involved track plan, actual switching of cars or running long locomotives with body-mounted couplers, look elsewhere. From my experience, Bachmann EZ track has no built in magnetic couplers, half curved sections or individual #6 turnouts. Even an extended figure 8 layout is a problem with EZ track. Passing sidings with EZ track are iffy. Mine would not work without body mounted coupler locomotives derailing the following car (even using Bachmann B23-7 with Bachmann Silver Series cars). My Bachmann Northern (2003 manufacture) derailed every time entering the point side of an EZ track turnout. I liked the power routing turnout feature and "plug and play" track with roadbed and wiring. Thus, I switched to Kato Unitrack and have no problems at all. I can even switch cars that have Micro-Trains, McHenry or Atlas couplers, using the magnetic Kato uncoupler sections. Kato has a nice assortment of track sizes, radius size and accessories. On the other hand, if you want to run trains on a simple layout without involved operation, EZ track is great. Be warned that while EZ track turnouts come with controllers, Kato has these at extra cost.
Quote from: Albert in N on January 06, 2011, 09:39:35 PMBefore getting more track or building your layout, decide desired performance............... On the other hand, if you want to run trains on a simple layout without involved operation, EZ track is great. Be warned that while EZ track turnouts come with controllers, Kato has these at extra cost.
Thanks for the comments. I'm using XTrakCAD with the E-Z Track parameter to design my layouts, so I'm fairly confident they will connect using E-Z Track. However, that doesn't mean I don't have some concerns about long term operation.
I'm not big on switching operations, so even though I plan some sidings, yard, etc., they are more for scenery than operation. I see them only as a place to stop or run through without actually doing anything there. I back into a siding, pretend to drop off/pick up, and move out again. I go through the yard and simply change to a different train coming out or swap locos to make it look like I reconfigured the consist.
But, I also think that might change in the future and that's why I'm concerned about putting too much faith in E-Z Track. If I decide I want to operate more realistically, I don't want E-Z Track to be a show-stopper or end up requiring a lot more expense. The goal is to design a layout that will satisfy both the short-term running operation and potential long-term switching operations.
Hi DoubleDAZ,
Please check this link and read the links in that thread:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,14730.0.html
EZ Track can be made to be reliable; it does require some minor tweaking effort.
Good Luck,
James, I sent you a PM about one of your posts that seems to have solved the same problem for someone else.
Quote from: Albert in N on January 06, 2011, 09:39:35 PM
From my experience, Bachmann EZ track has no built in magnetic couplers, half curved sections or individual #6 turnouts. Even an extended figure 8 layout is a problem with EZ track. Passing sidings with EZ track are iffy.
EZ track is far from perfect but a lot of the detractions have been cured. There are now half radius sections available in 11.25, 12.5, 17.5 and 19" radius. The #6 wye is usefull for a mainline passing siding. More odd sized straights have been released to make things line up now.
Hi DoubleDAZ,
I have received and reviewed your PM.
Please understand, it is my intent to help anyone, member or lurker, who may have similar problems, to overcome them and have successful results, regardless of skill level.
Therefore, the public response.
Remove the problem turnout from the layout.
Disconnect the electrical wires
Turn it over and remove the screws releasing the bottom plate.
Observe the relationship between the rack and pinion gears when throwing the switch from side to side.
Inside you will see a spring (wire) from the pinion gear, attached to a lever, which extends to the (point) throw.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,8792.0.html
Manually throw the points, from side to side, and see that there is equal pressure in both positions, to secure the point rails against the stock rails. There should be some excess in both positions where the spring is held fast against the stock rails.
(Be careful here, as the parts will fall out if the turnout is indexed to the proper position without the bottom plate screwed on.)
If not, then adjust the pinion gear to make it so.
The "spring wire" is not strong enough to hold it (points) in position without being powered.
This is why you maybe seeing the points moving away from the stock rail as the loco and cars pass over it when not powered.
Energize the turnout.
Replace the bottom cover and screws and try it.
It may take a few attempts till you figure it out.
One tooth off (either way) means a lot, either in the through route or the diverging route.
Try my suggestions and post back.
Let me know how it works out.
Awaiting your reply,
James in fla
James, no problem with the public response at all, just wanted to make things easy for you. I'll take a look at it later today and see what I can do. This does happen to be one of my non-powered turnouts and I'm in the process of getting power to it. It was also a turnout that didn't throw all the way when I got it, so I managed to get that working, but possibly didn't adjust things quite right, basically just put them back together, the lever had fallen off. I'll try adding power first to see if I really need to do any adjusting. Thanks for the help.
Edit: Guess I need to do some closer checking, powering the unit didn't help. I took it out and ran through the checks. but still have the same problem. I'll go through it again when I have more time. It's really pretty straightforward and not really much there to adjust. If push comes to shove, I'll just move the location closer to me where I can keep an eye on it. Might have to temporarily glue it in place, all the track is just laying loose for now.
After reading Skipgear's note, I checked and am glad that Bachmann EZ track now has curved half track. Also, it is good that Wye turnouts can be used for sidings. However the Wye turnout suggested retail price is almost fifty bucks for one turnout with controller and wiring. Thus, a Kato Unitrack passing siding set is not a bad buy. EZ track has nail holes for easy installation, where you have to drill out the holes if you use nails to attach Kato Unitrack. All in all, each track brand has advantages and disadvantages. Yes, you can fit one brand to another with some minor effort, but then you lose some visual effect. The important thing is to run trains and have fun! Also, it takes effort and courage to operate an interactive chat web site. I commend Bachmann for this and I have learned from other modelers contributing to Message Board.
Hi DoubleDAZ,
Please have another look at this thread:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,8792.0.html
In my reply, I posted some pics of the internal turnout.
Note the position of the rack gear to the pinion gear.
Also note the orientation of the boss on the pinion gear which drives the pinion lever (spring lever).
It is not exactly in the 12 and 6 positions, but rather almost 12:30 to 6:30, maybe closer to 1 and 7.
This is the correct orientation between the two (rack and pinion).
If you can get to this position, and you are still are having problems with equal pressure, with the points against the stock rails, then the remainder of tweaking lies in slight adjustment of the spring on the pinion lever.
If this is the case, remove the pinion lever (with the spring attached) and gently (with finger pressure) bend the spring toward the desired position.
You will need to bend the spring at the "top" where it leaves the lever, very slightly, very, very, slightly.
A minimum adjustment at the top of the lever is a lot of throw at the bottom (point throw).
It may take several adjustments to get it just right, just go slow and easy, and a little at a time.
Do not "kink" the spring. If you do, you will need to replace the spring with piano wire.
Not fun, don't ask how I know.
Good news is that you can't muck it up to bad; the piano wire seems to work very well.
That said, the spring wire still needs to be parallel to the pinion lever to be reliable in both positions.
The rack and pinion must be in proper "time" (orientation).
Good Luck
James, I finally see what you are getting at. Obviously I didn't note the position, mine was at 9-3. The switch moved throughout its range, but I've now got them at the 1-6:30 positions. I won't be able to test it until later tomorrow, but now that I know what I'm looking for, I'll simply keep moving it a tooth or so at a time until I get it working right. thanks for sticking with me on this.
You are very welcome.
That's what we are all here for, to learn and to help others as we can.
I am confident you will have resolve to this issue.
I have six EZ Track turnouts, 3 right and 3 left.
Only one, out of the "box", required the surgery posted above, it was assembled with the pinion "one tooth off".
The other five have received only a basic touch with a needle file on the points.
All six function reliably and flawlessly and have for many years.
Good Luck
James, I managed to reinstall and run the train several times, but still have the same problem. At first I thought it was just the manual level that had too much play, but then eventually the switch started jiggling as the train approached. I'm going to compare the insides to one that is working and see what I can see. I was at the hospitla all day and am getting ready to go back in a few minutes, so I won't get to it for awhile. BTW, the surgery was a success and my wife now has a new knee. Next is rehab, ouch!
I wish you and your family well and Godspeed to your wife in her recovery.
If the "switch" is "jiggling as the train approached" this leads me to believe that either the switch coil is not working properly as it should when energized, or the points are not held fast against the stock rails for whatever reason (possibly over/under throw).
If you will, please humor me, and post a pic of the energized turnout upside down, back plate off, with the points thrown in both directions.
I'm at somewhat of a loss here.
If possible, re-assemble the turnout and post pics of the top side of the points when energized in both positions.
Also check that the manual lever is extended all the way in both positions.
I need you to help me.
Awaiting your reply
It's going to be awhile, but let me try comparing it to a working one first.
Wife is doing fine. Surgery was a success, she's walking (a bit, but she's up), and will be home Thursday. Thanks for your concern.
James,
I'm glad to see your fixes for the E-Z Track switches. I have a home layout with 27 of these. While most of these work well, I have a few "problem children".
I use E-Z Track for all my mainline and heavily-used secondary tracks. My yard and other secondary tracks use Atlas code 80 track and switches on Woodland Scenics foam roadbed.
The Atlas switches, while a little crude (these are 1960's designs that were based on 1950's HO switches), have powerful solenoid switch machines that operate with a powerful snap. They have unpowered frogs and are not power-routing. However, they are relatively "bullet proof". Their main weakness is, if you hold the switch controller button down too long, you'll melt the switch machine solenoid.
I was attracted to the E-Z Track system because I felt the molded roadbed would make it easier to maintain curve radius, and I liked the E-Z Track switches high-tech design.
But sometimes I feel that the complex design over-reached the manufacturing ability. The solenoid needs to be stronger to reliably operate both the switch points and the power-routing contacts. If the switches could be built to tighter tolerances, they would be great.
Yesterday, I spent several hours trying to correct a switch that had two problems at once: The frog was not receiving power, and the point rail was not staying tight against the stock rail.
I eventually was able to correct the problem, but reading your post today (buried back on page 14!) was the first and only time I've seen reference to the correct orientation of the pinion gear. 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock! I think you've added several years to my life!
I had one switch (far away at the far end of a reverse loop) that was so troublesome I replaced it with a piece of straight track (had to splice two pieces together) while I ordered a replacement switch. I ruined the original switch when I broke the wires to the electromagnet trying to fix it (that makes 28 E-Z Switches).
A few things I want to point out here that may help others:
The "throw bar" spring wire may not fit tightly enough inside the switch to keep the points from wobbling (tolerances again). You can help this by cutting a little shim from very thin plastic with a hole in it, and putting it over the peg from the points before replacing the spring wire. This will also help hold parts together while working on it.
The copper "rocker" that routes power through the switch is critical. Not enough pressure against the contact pads and no power flows. Too much pressure and the mechanism binds. It is very important that both ends of the rocker, and the part that engages the solenoid have just the right amount of tension. When you take the back off the switch, note the position of the rocker in relation to the switch points. It is easy to get it reversed!
Power is delivered to the stock rails via contacts near the ends of the rails. If you mess with this area (like, shortening stock rails to fit switches closer together; or cutting off and replacing a rail joiner) you will lose electrical continuity to that track. That part of the switch will have to be powered either by electricity from the track it is connected to, or via a jumper wire connecting both parts of the rail.
It is possible to actually break a rail by messing with the switch. This is not as bad as it sounds. A little solder applied to the outside of the rail with a hot soldering iron will make things right.
Eight of my E-Z Switches were used to make four crossovers between my main lines. I wired these so one switch controller can power both switches at once. I noticed the controllers must have a capacitor inside them. If I try to quickly operate the switches and reset them, they move sluggishly and may not throw completely. But, if I wait a few seconds between moves, they work fine. Apparently, the capacitors need to recharge.
One very frustrating thing can happen with these crossover switch pairs. If one switch throws, and the other doesn't, it is possible to get one switch of the pair out of synch with the other. I haven't been able to solve this without pulling the switch and repositioning the power router bar. Logically, one should be able to just disconnect one switch and work the other, but it doesn't work that way in practice.
Thanks again for helping me, and I hope my suggestions can help others. If Bachmann can get the execution of these switches up to their design potential, they will really have something there.
Les
I was working on my E-Z track switches again yesterday and discovered a couple things I had not noticed before. One pretty subtle, the other, pretty obvious.
First, the subtle. Between the throw rod (the "whisker") and the underside of the switch where the peg to the points extends, there is a little black plastic plate. This plate is NOT the same on both sides. It has a top and bottom.
The side of this plate that rubs on the underside of the roadbed casting has a tiny half-spherical nub in each corner. Apparently, their purpose is to reduce the amount of contact area (and, therefore, friction) between the two pieces when the switch is thrown. Be sure that you reassemble this part with the correct orientation.
Now, from the sublime to the ridiculous. I have all my switch controllers ganged in groups to control specific areas of the layout. They are set up so when the slides are moved to the right, the switches will be lined for through movement.
I have a row of five E-Z switches to form a ladder on one end of my passenger terminal. After tinkering with the switches, one of them wound up with its polarity reversed.
After puzzling over this problem awhile, I hit upon the solution. Simply unplug the switch controller, flip the electrical connector over, and plug it back in. Problem solved!
Les