Hi all,
it's been a rather long time since you've heard much from me, I apologize. Life's Circumstances get in the way and financial and labor isn't the easiest to maintain in this day in age(I know I wouldn't have to tell you all that) And for those wondering the G&D 4-10-0 is still under construction, I want to make sure i can make that mechanism bulletproof before going any further, that engine has to run really good and look really good, so high expectations.
Okay enough with the catch-up, recently I found a job and been working so I've been able to pay the bills and save for more steamers :D I was intentionally going to purchase a Proto Heavy 2-10-2 w/snd with the interest that I needed more heavier non-articulated steam on my roster. The BLI heavy mike isnt cutting the mustard for me, so I've been eyeballing heavy 2-10-2's and 4-8-2's like brass D&RGW and DM&IR prototypes because those engines seem to catch my eye more and have a strong heavy freight appearance.
Given the circumstances, the price for a Proto Heavy 2-10-2 makes me cringe a bit and after battling it out in the auctions I tend to lose even though I bid higher than I really wish to spend on the model err $180, I've rather spend $150 on a bachmann DM&IR 2-10-2 with sound and plop a heavy mountain boiler on it but in due searching I saw one of my wish-list engines, an LMB, KMT brass DM&IR 2-10-4 and ended up bidding on it making my absolute high price of $310 for it(hey it's brass and it's not your everyday prototype engine ;) ) so I went for it at that price and landed it for $293 which isn't bad, I originally thought someone was to outbid me but my luck has to be good sometimes :)
Pictures:
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/Untitled3.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/Untitled2-1.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/Untitled-9.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/Untitled4.jpg)
Well knowing me I'm definitely going to be freelancing this locomotive up some. First starting with the detailing on the locomotive itself, adding some marker lights on the smokebox front and some additional details as well like open reefer hatch-like cab vents(prototype on my railway) like they have on UP 2-10-2's. The paint job is going to follow the DM&IR look anyways simply because I love the color scheme to it.
Picture of a paint 3rd Rail Brass DM&IR 2-10-4:
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/Untitled5.jpg)
As far as the tender is concerned, other than the doghouse on top, I really think the tender looks too bland not to mention too long for my turntable by at least 2 or so inches, so I figure I take the doghouse of and sell the tender, and buy a bachmann DM&IR clear vision tender shell and plop on one of my extra bachmann tender chassis I have laying around. Slap a franklin booster on the front tender truck(love those gizmo's ;D ) and take off the decals, maybe change the motor out of the engine install DCC with a sound decoder and there we go, another Rye Guy Engine for the roster :)
and the center drive axle is blind unlike the actual original KMT by a previous owner. Originally these engines ran on 24" radius and I run a 22" minimum on my lines, so I was wondering if that added blind driver help me. Any suggestions?
Just a word of warning. If the drivers are sprung, then you may not want blind drivers. Ok on the 2-10-4 or 2-10-2 with the center drive blind you may be ok. How ever I found out with an eight driver locomotive, in my case a 4-8-4 with the 2nd and 3rd drive blind they will drop down off the rail on sharp curves. I was Lucky and was able to get replacement drivers.
well taking that into consideration, if they are sprung, it can be fixed
ryeguy-
It's nice to see you back and a big congratulations on landing a job in this only slowly awakening economy. It's to your credit that you were hired!
I like the brass loco you purchased, and I think you got a fair price. I didn't check Glaser's book for the value but under $300 sounds like a good buy. I tend to prefer 2-X-2 wheel arrangements but I've been fond of big burly Texas types since I saw an ATSF Texas at the Missouri State Railroad Museum near St. Louis. What a gorgeous brute! It sits on a track almost adjacent to a Big Boy and it's almost as long. I envy you too much and, in all fairness, I urge you to keep your new loco under lock and key or it might be circling my layout!
Why not leave the doghouse on the tender? Potential buyers might have a problem with what's left after you remove it and be put off. Folks who don't want a doghouse can easily remove it themselves. If you want a doghouse on your new tender, the outfit that sells plastic HOn3 Mikes on the ebay imported brass list sells one for only eight bucks or something. I bought a couple a few years ago and they look fine.
A new tender could use rerailers and maybe marker lights but there isn't a whole lot to add to most of them. You can always jazz up a loco.
Again, welcome back. I look forward to your posts and your progress on the 2-10-4.
-- D
Rye Guy,
Like Jonathan, I'm glad to see you back, and glad you found a job! I work for an unemployment office as an auditor, so I don't see the misery as much as the claims people, but I see enough to know that many are desperate, and have helped a couple whom I met outside the office with additional assistance personally.
The prototype of your locomotive has an interesting history. These engines were originally built at various times between about 1930 and the early 1940s in small lots for the Bessemer & Lake Erie, which like the DM&IR, was owned by US Steel. They are essentially copies of Chicago Bulington & Quincy M-4 2-10-4s, which dated to the 1920s. The B&LE engines, being a bit newer, incorporated some construction refinements, most notably a welded tender (that's why your tank looks as bland as it does, it doesn't have the rivets you would normally see), but were curiously lacking in others (fabricated frame and plain bearings, rather than a cast frame and roller bearings that would be more common in the early 1940s for such engines).
When the B&LE started to dieselize, these engines and some others from other US Steel roads (including the Elgin, Joliet & Eastern) migrated to the DM&IR. These included the 2-10-4s you have an example of, I believe some heavy 2-8-0s from the same road, and also some Union Railroad 0-10-2s, an unusual transfer engine custom built to replace double-headed 0-6-0s on this industrial railroad, and which had to fit on a short turntable, hence a short tender and no leading truck (not needed for a top speed in the 35 mph range).
Amazingly, examples of both the Union 0-10-2 and the B&LE 2-10-4 survive today.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bessemer_and_Lake_Erie_Railroad
http://members3.boardhost.com/Bessemer/index.html?1299547081
http://orion.math.iastate.edu/jdhsmith/term/slusble.htm
http://www.american-rails.com/bessemer-and-lake-erie-railroad.html
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/ble/ble-rost.html
http://www.steamlocomotive.com/texas/?page=ble
http://www.ejearchive.com/page_photogallery.html
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/ble/ble-stm.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Railroad_(Pittsburgh,_Pennsylvania)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Union_Railroad_0-10-2
http://www.steamlocomotive.info/vlocomotive.cfm?Display=1016
http://www.steamlocomotive.com/0-10-2/?page=ur
http://members.lsol.net/mollyandmick/D.htm
The DM&IR had a notable design of its own, a very heavy and powerful 2-8-8-4 Yellowstone, based on a Western Pacific/Denver & Rio Grande Western 2-8-8-2.
http://www.steamlocomotive.com/yellowstone/?page=dmir
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DrEeZW9SIT0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XeRrMPyJaU&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ccv077nocZA&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fUh-3k2-rEU&feature=related
Have fun!
PS--I would keep the tank around, just in case you sell the engine again, and that way the new buyer will have both if he wants them.
Thanks Doneldon and J3a(especially your input which dramatic amounts of material that sometimes even I can't fathom to find)
The tender I'm going to sell anyways, it's too large and I just don't have another locomotive that would look good with that slapped on the back of it, and speaking of which I probably will keep the doghouse on when I sell it. The engine however, is least likely to be sold again I know I'll be the final owner of it(very sentimental on my steam beasties) and Jon I'd sleep with it under my pillow ;)
the best part is it's a US steel kind of engine, and my railroad is a heavy duty express coal railroad, shipping coal at heighten velocity to the port coal docks, the engine facilities and the inter city coal dumps. The era would be a stretch from 1930's to mid 50's no diesels whatsoever(no motorized boxcars haha) Lots of medium drags, a locomotive erecting shops, turntables and roundhouses along the route, commuter steam from the suburbs to the city and light passenger service with heavyweights. Mountain climbing require the use of franklin booster of nearly all the freight locomotives on the roster and in some rare cases two under the tender of a couple steam locomotives. Eventually when the revenue heightens the railroad super will put in an order for a modernized erie style triplex. A right of way battle on one side of the line against the PRR escalated after a mainline interchange collision with a NYC destined coal pusher and a mixed PRR consist, since then a civil war of sorts existed between the two.
enough freelance story telling. This project is going to be alot of fun and besides my 0-8-0 and my care taking of my clubs New Haven 2-6-0(which needs an overhaul) this engine is like the first real accomplishment into brass locomotive collecting for me, of course there will be more but nothing comes out of my shops looking the same as it did when it went in ;)
PS- I've been somewhat into the hobby again ever since the train show in springfield MA I've just been too busy to post anything recent despite buying a varney berk boiler and putting it on a mike chassis but thats another story haha :)
well Today I figure since I don't have to work until 4, I'd build my first module:
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2608.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2607.jpg)
for those wondering the locomotive is a modified spectrum 2-10-2, recently overhauled thanks to the gear parts received from the b-mann parts store(EXCELLENT SERVICE might I add), Locomotive was given to me by Guilford Guy for those who know him, I modified the engine first with the pilot, and the roof hatches, and smokebox door, the locomotive didn't have a smoke stack when I received it so I put a brass one on. The first sand dome I had to use on another locomotive (the 4-10-0) so I replaced that with a brass sand dome and I have yet to paint it, the tander is a brass samsahonga with a PSC brass franklin booster
The module has been planned out with an absolute minimum of 22" radii, on 5' X 2'6" benchwork, and the track spaced 2.5" apart, 5.5" to 8" from the edge
Planning on running some decent steam on ths module system :)
rg-
That crossing is going to be a humdinger to build if it's to be a straight over curve unit.
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on March 08, 2011, 09:05:38 PM
rg-
That crossing is going to be a humdinger to build if it's to be a straight over curve unit.
-- D
I'm hoping to mess with it some, to make it ease into the curves
ehhh that crossing seems to be a basket case :( any hints as to a better way to cross over?
rg-
I hope someone else has a better idea than I have because none of my ideas sound very good.
One possibility is to scratch build the straight over curved crossing. That's a lot of work because you'll have to shape every piece, including the diamond and eight pieces of rail at the corners. If I were doing it, I'd start with a piece of curved track and work from that. Make sure each rail piece is electrified but there is sufficient distance between pieces that your trains don't short the whole thing out. That means making eight plastic corners. Whoa!
The second choice is to use a prefab crossing, assuming it's a stock size like 30o. Then try to fit the curve around it by using flex track and moving the far right track out and back a little. I would guess the scratch job would be the easiest to fit in but it would be the most work. It could make for some fancy trackwork in that area - and something to be proud of.
I hate to be a jerk, but better thee than me. Good luck with this.
-- D
well I gave it another go and made it it but it makes the mainline look un-parallel
Atlas used to make a crossing that was meant to go with a couple of switches to make just the configuration you are looking to build. I'm not sure of the crossing angle, but I seem to recall it being something like 17 degrees; I'm afraid I don't remember the switch frog numbers at all.
Update: Atlas crossing links, looks like the angle is 12 1/2 degrees, will need to look up what switches go with it:
https://secure.atlasrr.com/mod1/items.asp?Cc=H46&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=
https://secure.atlasrr.com/mod1/items.asp?Cc=H56&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=
I'll try and look something up in the next day or so for you.
Just for a frame of reference, check this out:
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=316963&nseq=15
Quote from: ebtnut on March 09, 2011, 01:24:45 PM
Just for a frame of reference, check this out:
http://www.railpictures.net/viewphoto.php?id=316963&nseq=15
interesting picture of 643 with the modern number board attachments, even though I don't like the way it looks thank goodness that beastie is in good condition and a model railroad museum in ohio is looking to buy it and restore it for tourists runs
Quote from: J3a-614 on March 09, 2011, 03:29:38 AM
Atlas used to make a crossing that was meant to go with a couple of switches to make just the configuration you are looking to build. I'm not sure of the crossing angle, but I seem to recall it being something like 17 degrees; I'm afraid I don't remember the switch frog numbers at all.
Update: Atlas crossing links, looks like the angle is 12 1/2 degrees, will need to look up what switches go with it:
https://secure.atlasrr.com/mod1/items.asp?Cc=H46&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=
https://secure.atlasrr.com/mod1/items.asp?Cc=H56&iTpStatus=0&Tp=&Bc=
I'll try and look something up in the next day or so for you.
I'm going to try and solder a straight and a 22 inch radius curve together into a crossing
I'm going to continue looking to confirm this, but it looks like the 12 1/2 degree crossing is meant to work with Atlas' regular No. 4 (not Snap Switch, and really a No. 4 1/2 or 4.5 frog) turnouts. This looks like what would give you the double-tracked junction you want.
http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=62056
http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6504
http://www.modelsbuzz.com/ho-turnout-radii-and-curves-891626.html
Hope this is helping out.
Wellllllllllllllllllllllllllllll i gave in and bought a Proto 2-10-2, which i thought had sound but its no biggie at 150, turns out the guy selling it lived right up the road from me ;D
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2628.jpg)
anywho I plopped my russian decapod decoder in and it ran just fine with it, so I'm satisfied to say the least(knock on wood) Still anticipating the delivery of my 2-10-4 but in the meantime, I've been working away at the modules
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2625.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2624.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2623.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2621.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2618.jpg)
Thats two 2.5 foot by 10 foot modules together, I managed to squeeze in everything I needed at the interchange okay with easements and replaced the switches with #6's and a lower degree crossing and I tested my new proto on it, and it ran over beautifully, so no complaints so far....
now working on the mining tipple tracks I was debating on using my threeway switch but if I can get those tracks 2.5 inches away from each other for a cornerstone new river mining kit, I should be golden. After doing the trackwork for that I'll move onto making corner pieces and a couple interurban city modules. Debating on buying a 130 foot walthers turntable, but I'm not sure as to if it will fit.
For those wondering I've been using a bit of XtrackCAD for reference as well as drawings and cardboard mockups
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/xtrack.jpg)
^now looking from the picture, the 130 fits in with about an inch or so to spare on each side, now to do a roundhouse and other engine facility addons i would need about 2 modules as a sectional to do it. and I haven't a clue as to add a yard into this either haha :P I will say if I keep the system in the basement I should be fine
Well just an update for you guys, I recieved the brass engine in about a week ago and tonight I just ordered a DM&IR 2-10-2 with sound, and I'm currently posting the brass tender on ebay. Now using the old gear parts from Guilford Guy's Engine for reference, I started milling away at the brass boiler shell, so in turn I can fit the 2-10-2 chassis in. Doing it this way will eliminate a bunch of problems down the road, the fact the locomotive cannot make less than 23 inch radius, the spectrum chassis can definitely do this, plus on top of that DCC and sound and the clear vision tender I want.
This is not for brass collectors with weak hearts:
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2687.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2688.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2689.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2690.jpg)
I am debating on if I should attempt to switch over the cylinders and the valve gear, and sell the mechanism as is, and I'm also wondering what to use as a four wheel trailing truck, or maybe I'lll use the brass one who knows
the module has been on standby at the moment, but still being worked on plan-wise, and thanks to Craig from the B-man forums, I now have a 130' tuntable and some really helpful roundhouse walls and as promised I will post what I will do using those parts on a planned module
comments and suggestions welcome :)
just got my DM&IR 2-10-2 in Today, and I love the detail on it and it looks great!!, and I especially love the tender
Here's some work done, almost all the basic steps I need to create this behemoth of power is complete
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2768.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2766.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2767.jpg)
for a project as complicated as this one, everything is coming out exceptionally good, due to lack of a spot to screw in the brass rear trailing truck, I decided to install a Rivarossi Hudson one instead, and now the locomotive has 2 franklin boosters, think of all that tractive effort!
Pretty soon I'll have to finish the cosmetic detailing and test run this locomotive and then will be the paint job, everything is coming out great :)
Rye, that looks fantastic. I hope I get a sneak preview when the loco is painted.
Quote from: Craig on March 28, 2011, 04:37:26 PM
Rye, that looks fantastic. I hope I get a sneak preview when the loco is painted.
Craig you always the frist to see things as they come out as well as an exclusive insight to some of my construction :) so of course ;)
Well I just did some wiring/painting on the brass locomotive and it came out great
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/dm1.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/dm2.jpg)
Just barely makes the 90 foot turntable:
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2810.jpg)
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2812.jpg)
Now as far as paint is concerned the next step for this locomotive would be the DM&IR gray paint livery:
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/Untitled5.jpg)
and then I would like to share some of my locomotives that have not been seen on these forums:
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2809.jpg)
Old Sleepy Valley 596 here was a switch engine on the last railway she ran, scratchbuilt brass boiler on a shortened varney sprung driver frame which due to age disintegrated, so for now she sits on a new old stock varney heavy consolidation chassis until further decision as to whether to turn her into a 0-10-0 or a 0-8-0 with a newer chassis to restore her former glory
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g65/ryeguyisme/CIMG2811.jpg)
this engine is a recent addition as it's boiler was bought at the springfield show earlier this year and already work has begun on it, it sits on a pretty good IHC chassis(newer version) she was tested on the club's front end loops and shes an outstanding runner and puller pulled 26 cars without trouble at all on a 2% grade, have yet to add more cars to fully test it, eventually she'll become a primary road engine hauling reefers and coal.
any comments would be great.
and PS- I managed to buy a really good 8 x 21 foot layout from someone who's done a really good job on it for a really good price, I cannot wait until I pick it up wednesday I'll be sure to share with you all on how it comes :)
Howdy, Rye;
Been a bit busy lately, and haven't had the time to write too many comments here, but I have been following the progress. I can't say I would have done what you have with the B&LE/DM&IR 2-10-4, but then I'm in the "keep it pretty original camp," so just consider that a difference in opinion.
I'm glad the new crossing and the junction layout came out as well as it did, although you may want to consider moving that huge turntable somewhere else, maybe onto its own module with a new yard. Part of that would be to give it room for the roundhouse you want to go with it, part of it would be to make things easier to handle, and part of it would be to allow it to get its own share of viewing attention, along with the locomotives that would be in it!
The "new" engines you have are interesting, particularly that Varney 2-8-4 boiler on a modern 2-8-2 running gear. The Varney 2-8-4 was something of a freelanced job (not unusual for generic engines when it was introduced, as Mantua's 2-8-2 doesn't quite have a prototype either), although in some ways it has a Baldwin look similar to that of L&N M-1 2-8-4s. The firebox doesn't look oversized to me for a two-wheel trailer, but overall the engine looks too modern for the fabricated trailer that came with the IHC mechanism. Change that trailer out for a modern Delta type, and the engine would look closer to "right" in my eyes.
As to that engine with the homemade boiler, the proportions and size suggest an 0-10-0 to me; let us know what you plan to use for a mechanism for this beastie. . .
Good luck, keep it up, you're doing some things I haven't been able to do myself yet. . .
Hey J3a,
yeah it's been a while hearing from you, but you do get the cogs running in my mind on the things you mention, the 2-10-4 needed to be able to barely negotiate at least an 18" radius which it will but I won't plan on doing it often, my sole purpose in buying this ungodly beast was to kitbash it into one of my style road locomotives, if you hadn't noticed the trademark roof hatches yet ;) I hope to obtain some large Union Pacific mountains and mikados as well as some D&RGW freight styled 4-8-2's all of which except the UP 4-8-2 is only available in brass(broadway limited made a release on UP's MT-7). I just like the style and modern look to them not to mention their size and unique-ness in comparison to the non-brass market, I don't like much anything that looks massed produced in the model world, which drove me into the kitbash realm.
the junction is still rather a basket case BUT I have a plan that just might work where I rip it up and actually modify the crossover by cutting out the plastic in the curved direction and relaying it curved.
In the mean time tomorrow I'm on a road trip to pick up that good sized layout I bought 2 hours from here so I might just hold off on the modules until I see what exactly I'm dealing with as far as space/practicality
I love those varney engines, I must admit you're right about that trailing truck, I have a couple delta's in my parts somewheres
You're right on the sleepy Valley engine, and right along what my original thought to have it become a 0-10-0(been wanting to get a few of these) So I plan on picking up another russian decapod with sound and use that as a conversion :)
welll here it is guys, the final product after lots of tweaking:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u36ySftq04U (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u36ySftq04U)
still some work to be done on it but it runs and can handle 18 inch radius without a problem, something the brass engine couldn't handle requiring a 24 inch radii
Rye-
Well I'm impressed! Looks super and runs great. When are you coming over to fix or finish all of my projects?
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on May 18, 2011, 07:56:43 PM
Rye-
Well I'm impressed! Looks super and runs great. When are you coming over to fix or finish all of my projects?
-- D
whenever I finish mine D:, i still have a lot of mine to do, just bought two spectrum class J tenders for some D&RGW freelance steam lookalikes