My wife just bought me a 30 degree crossing at a yard sale bless her heart. It says that it is the center piece for a figure 8. I don't wish to use a figure 8 in my layout as I have already started building my layout. Does anyone have any ideas how to use this other than a figure 8? I am drawing a blank. Any help would be highly appreciated.
Wes
There really isn't much you can do with that crossing. If you had like a 10 degree crossing then you could do other things.
Here's one way -
(http://www.sarget.com/trains/traintips/bach/eztrack/bachezlayd-1.jpg)
An EZ track 30 matches up with the EZ Standard switch as shown in the layout picture previous. An Atlas 30 also matches up with the Atlas standard snap switch, but needs the 10 degree 18"r curve added first. The action is that a two track line can have a siding start from the outer track, cross the inner track and then to siding.
The figure 8 would have to be a strange one, with extra curves to get the righe degree match, normally an 8 uses a 90, or sometimes a 60.
Quote from: Terry Toenges on May 16, 2011, 05:56:26 PM
Here's one way -
(http://www.sarget.com/trains/traintips/bach/eztrack/bachezlayd-1.jpg)
That is a neat little layout.
Thanks for the reply. I am looking at some other options and will keep yall posted.
Wes
Quote from: timhar47 on May 16, 2011, 06:04:15 PM
The figure 8 would have to be a strange one, with extra curves to get the righe degree match, normally an 8 uses a 90, or sometimes a 60.
A Fig-8 with a 30deg crossing is pretty straight forward. Come off each leg of the crossing with 5 full 18in radius curves. Then file the gap with a 1.5in straight with a half (15deg) 18in radius curve on each side. Viola! You now have a 30deg crossing Fig-8 that's slightly over 3ft wide by 6ft long.
Len
the crossing doesn't have to be used in a figure 8. nor do both routes of the crossing have to be used. you could use the crossing to represent a junction with another railroad, with the other railroad's tracks running right off the edge of the table. that way, it could be inserted anywhere you have straight track.
I used one to cross from inside track across outer to a staging yard I added to park trains. Everyone need at least one crossing to use that nice interlocking tower we just built.
Kevin
Len,
1. I would put the half curves directly off the crossing, which puts the curve gaps on the major compass points, allowing for future length expansion of the figure 8.
2. Anyrail.com (free trial download, fun and powerful) puts that gap at 2.2", which is very close to those 2-1/4" straight fitters that take up space in your junk drawer.
3. Allowing 2" from track centerline to fence, Anyrail.com gives fence-to-fence (tabletop) dimensions of 42.2" x 77.86"
4. I'll leave it up to you guys to do the conversion to fractional inches.
Jeff,
You said: "it could be inserted anywhere you have straight track."
Well, not directly. It's 11.93" long, where regular straights are 9" long, so you would have to adjust somewhere with fitter straights...
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
joe,
i agree you would probably have to add fitter pieces to the 30 degree crossing to make it work. however, the brand of crossing was not specified. that makes all the difference in the world. the ez track crossing is almost 12 inches, the atlas snap crossing is 6" (a standard straight track length) and the standard atlas crossing is 4" other brands probably have different lengths as well......
John Armstrong in his book "Track Planning for Realistic Operation" had an interesting use for a small angle crossing. When he wanted a siding to the left but lacked clearance to make the turn, he installed a right hand turnout followed by a crossing. Here on the prairies we would call that a "farmer turn" - swing right to turn left as a way of getting large machinery around tight curves. The turnout plus 30o crossing gave the effect of a #2 turnout. When John graduated to track planning for the 12" to the foot boys, he actually used this in some real world applications.
Jim
suggs-
It seems to me that one plans a railroad, or part of one, or maybe just a siding or branch line, and then appropriate parts (track, turnouts, crossings, locos, structures, rolling stock, etc.) are used to make it work. Starting with a track component and then trying to decide how to use it is kind of getting the cart before the horse. Of course you have an additional consideration: your wife's generous and kind gift of a crossing. That, understandably, makes you want to use it somehow. But rather than just asking, "How can I use this?" you might find it easier and more useful to start with existing or planned parts of your railroad and only then ask how you can use the crossing. For example, suppose you want to add a branch line to a mine, logging operation, industry or cattle depot. Decide where you'd like to put it and then examine how the track component (the crossing) can be used to fullfil your plan.
This is just a little different from your original question but I think it will work better for you. Whatever you end up doing, have fun and be grateful for an understanding and supportive General Manager.
-- D
Joe,
I don't disagree with #1, I was just doing a 'quick & dirty' to see what it took to make a Fig-8 with the EZ-Track 30deg crossing. The 1/2 curves can really go anywhere off of each leg.
I used the RR-Track software, and it came up with a 1-1/2in gap on each side between the curved legs on each side. If I get some time tomorrow I may lay it out using real track and see what it takes.
Len
ACY - Here are some variations of the above
http://www.sarget.com/atempstuff (http://www.sarget.com/atempstuff)
Len,
Well, to get the gaps lined up for future lengthwise expansion, the each half curve would have to be somewhere between the crossing and the third full curve away from the crossing. I guess it's easy enough to move them if the track is not permanently attached.
When putting together the actual EZ-Track it will probably be hard to tell which fitter straight (1-1/2" or 2-1/4") works better, as they are only 3/4" apart in length.
That's about 1 degree difference spread out over 12 track joints.
I'm surprised that there is a difference between the track programs. If the dimensions of the track pieces were measured and entered correctly, the results should be the same, as the math should be the same.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
Joe,
I laid it out with real track and discovered the joints on the curves are generally 'sloppy' enough to allow some flexibility on the length of the straight fitter piece. The joints between curves felt smoother with the 1-1/2in straight, but a train operated with no problems using the 2-1/4in piece once the joints were evened out. Go figure! ;D
Len