Gentlemen I'm new to this hobby I'm a modeler and graphic artist and I have tons of questions please be patient with me:-)
1.)First I'll give it a try,anytime soon my HO bachmann union pacific #4432 w/ smoke will arrive,product description says its DCC Compatibility: DCC Compatible - No socket or plug
Q: can i put sounds on this train?
2.)Tracks
Q: even if i have a bachmann train can i use a different brand of tracks?
Q: if my track is the ez tracks is it possible to connect other brand of tracks?
hope you can help me to this new found hobby..appreciate it!
Welcome Fyzal! Hope you find the hobby as enjoyable as I do.
1. The UP #4432 is a small 0-6-0 switcher with a SMALL slopeback tender. This locomotive does not come with DCC. If you are indeed a beginner, this would be a very tough locomotive to cut your teeth on. Installing sound would be a challenge for an experienced DCC guy. Bachmann does sell a few versions of the 0-6-0 with DCC already, but not sound. Don't know about a UP version, though. The Prairie version (2-6-2) does come with a large enough tender, that sound may be possible. Don't know of anyone who has done it, yet. As you are already a modeler, perhaps dealing with small spaces and small tools will be second nature.
2. Any HO Scale track will work with Bachmann trains.
4. Yes. it is fairly easy to connect other brands of track to your EZ track. You will have to raise the level of the other track, usually done with cork roadbed or similar type products.
Hope this helps and enjoy your new found passtime. It's addicting. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan has pretty much covered your basic questions.
i would like to point out that if you do convert your 0-6-0 to dcc it would be best if you didn't use the smoke unit on it. dcc trains are much more finicky about clean track than traditional dc ones. anybody who's ever had a railroad around a smoker can tell you that for some reason smoke tends to be attracted to the metal rails on the track, and will give you an oily crud buildup that needs to be cleaned regularly. this is one reason many model rails don't permit smoking in the train room.
Your locomotive is a poor candidate for DCC and sound because it would require removal of the smoke unit, and then wiring the tender for pickup, installing a harness between the tender and the locomotive, adding metal wheels and a means of contact to the tender, drilling out holes in the bottom of the tender, and most likely using a different tender if you want to fit a speaker and baffle.
If you want a locomotive with sound a good choice is the Bachmann Spectrum or new standard line 2-8-0 Consolidation, the tender has an 8 pin socket with plenty of room for sound, the already has pickup and comes with a harness. All you need to do is use a DCC sound decoder with 8-pin plug and install the speaker.
thanks guys! well I think it was a bad choice for a first engine and dreaming of putting sounds to it,but i have to enjoy my first engine with out the sounds anyways:-) but definitely i will get that spectrum when I get paid from commissions as modeler.thank again!
next time i will ask you about planning the layouts
Below is a good link to DCC and sound. There is a lot to DCC for non sound and sound decoders plus locos that come with both types of decoders. Do a bunch of study on this subject as there are Gotchas. Stepping from DC, Analog, to, DCC, Digital is a big step as so much more can be done with DCC. Think computers. Decoders have a lot of digital stuff in them.
I am glad you asked first before buying. Some do not and buy what will be difficult to modify.
Below are some links to look through. Take your time.
http://www.mrdccu.com/ There is a lot in curriculum link.
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn2/DCC.htm
Yeah, it might overwhelm you at first.
Layout wiring can be simple or complex depending on what you want. My layout, I disconnected the DC power pack and plugged in my NCE Powr Cab DCC controller and was running DCC locos in a few minutes.
http://www.wiringfordcc.com/track.htm
Store the links in Favorites for future use.
Rich
fyz-
I'm sorry that everyone had to be negative about your DCC/sound conversion on your 0-6-0 but sometimes good, solid information is more helpful than make nice information which leads you to a frustrating experience. So I won't pile on but will limit myself to welcoming you to model railroading. I know you'll find out quickly that it's a hobby with many, many skill sets and you can certainly find some aspects of the hobby you enjoy. And it's nice that there are quickie work, short cuts and money talks ways to get the less enjoyable parts done. I'm lucky in that I like the variety of things that go into model railroading but even I am finding that my fingers are getting bigger and the parts are getting smaller the older I get. Once again, Welcome aboard!
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on July 07, 2011, 03:47:09 PM
fyz-
I'm sorry that everyone had to be negative about your DCC/sound conversion on your 0-6-0 but sometimes good, solid information is more helpful than make nice information which leads you to a frustrating experience. So I won't pile on but will limit myself to welcoming you to model railroading. I know you'll find out quickly that it's a hobby with many, many skill sets and you can certainly find some aspects of the hobby you enjoy. And it's nice that there are quickie work, short cuts and money talks ways to get the less enjoyable parts done. I'm lucky in that I like the variety of things that go into model railroading but even I am finding that my fingers are getting bigger and the parts are getting smaller the older I get. Once again, Welcome aboard!
-- D
People where not being negative, just realistic. There are limitations. The standard 0-6-0 with tender is just not a loco that could have sound at this time.
I have taken the tender from this loco and put a sound decoder and 14mm x 25mm speaker into it but had to install all metal wheels with pickups and a two wire connector between the loco and the tender. Had to add lead shot in the tender for weight. I had to drill a bunch of small holes in the bottom of the tender for the speaker. The loco is a Mantua 0-6-0. with pickups on all the drivers. The loco has its own non sound decoder.
A few have put DCC sound into the Spectrum 0-6-0T but it is quite a challenge. They had previous DCC experience. That loco has better pickups but the ? inch diameter speaker they use gives limited sound, especially for lower frequencies.
Rich
Rich-
To be clear, I wasn't being critical with my comment about negative.
In this case, fyz needed to be discouraged from trying something which
would even challenge an experienced model rail. I was just trying to
soften the blow.
-- D
guys I really appreciate your comments and replies,I just realize that i made a bad choice for a first engine and putting sound on it,but still I still like my first train.Because of your very informative information the next time I know what steam train to buy:-)
As of now I will gather items for decorating a scenery maybe from woodland scenic or Do it myself and plan a simple layout since I dont the luxury of space.
By the way do you guys own a BAHCMANN Ho DEWITT CLINTON?any review? I also like it because its unique and cute:-) of course I'm not dreaming to put sound on it!hahahaha!!:-)
I really appreciate your help and being honest about what to do or not...
The Dewitt Clinton set is more of a display type model. It's very neat, and a nice piece of history to complete a collection. It's not a model you would want to run on a regular basis. However, with the model on display, you would gain a power pack (multiple uses) and some extra track.
Just an opinion...
On a side note: if you really want to add your own sound to a locomotive, the perfect loco to start with is a 2-8-4 berkshire. The tender has a preformed spot for a 1" speaker. The whole project would be almost plug-and-play... Almost. You would learn a great deal, and have a more than reasonable chance of success your first time out. The locomotive runs like a dream, and they can be had for reasonable prices at train shows. On occasion, I have seen some go for less than $100. Amazing for such a great loco.
Don't give up on the 0-6-0. I think it can be done. I will probably be trying it in the next few months. Will post the project when I'm ready to start.
Regards,
Jonathan
The Dewitt Clinton is just a display loco, all the ones like it are not good for anything but display pieces.
Jonathan, as for the 0-6-0, it can be done if you really want to put a lot of effort into it and if you have a good amount of experience, but without any experience it would probably not turn out well.
Yup the dewitt clinton is much more for display,but imagine it running on a modern layout:-) about my 0-6-0 I'm glad that there is hope putting dcc or sound on it.But as of now I'm focusing on saving money for the spectrum line. Since there is no local hobbyshops here in Philippines that sell model trains..so I have to buy it online.
how long will the motor of the train will last before it retire?
My Aunt is buying me a gift and it's the Ho spectrum dcc on board usra 2-10-2,so is this a good engine guys? and can i put sound on it?
fyzal-
I've heard generally good things about the Bachmann Santa Fe and that jibes with my experience. The one thing you might want to watch is whether your curves can handle the loco or, more precisely, whether the 2-10-2 can handle the curves. A ten-coupled locomotive has a very long rigid wheelbase so tight curves can invite problems. Mine run fine down to 22" radius; I haven't attempted anything less than that.
The other consideration is what such a long loco looks like on sharp curves. What I mean is that many locos can negotiate fairly tight curves successfully but they look awful doing so. It's usually less of an appearance problem if you're viewing from the convex (outside) of the curve rather than the concave side. But the appearance issue is one only you can decide for yourself.
-- D
Just make sure your layout has at least 22" radius curves or else you won't be able to run it (at least without many issues).
how long will the motor of the train will last before it retire? That is like saying how many miles can I get on my car. some people get 200,000, 300,000 or more miles and the car still runs good. While other people will burn one up in less than 100,00. A lot depends on how you take care of it. Most locomotives will wear out before the motor dies.
Finally,after some info from you guys and research I decided to get the 2-8-4 berkshire instead,it's not too long and not too short engine.
a.)So what kind or radius of tracks should I use so it will run smooth in curves?
b.)what accessories should I buy to put sound on it?
You need at a minimum 22" radius, but it will run the smoothest on 24" radius and broader curves. You can buy a tsunami decoder, you will also need a speaker and baffle. If you a low on $$$, then maybe an MRC decoder that comes with a speaker, and then buy a baffle separately.
ok,since this is my first time maybe I will first try the MRC,but does it sound good?
fyzal,
The 2-8-4 berkshire is a great choice for your first time installing sound. Plus, it's a great running locomotive all by itself. Mine will handle 22" radius curves easily.
Here's a link to a thread I posted some time ago. It was my first time installing a sound unit:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,16616.0.html
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: fyzal on July 13, 2011, 01:32:48 AM
ok,since this is my first time maybe I will first try the MRC,but does it sound good?
Its sounds okay, that is why it is cheaper, the Tsunami sounds great though, but that is why it is more expensive ($120+).
fyzal-
You might find that you can gin up your own baffle once you
get into the project. While you really can't avoid having some
kind of baffle, it doesn't have to be a manufactured one.
-- D
Quote from: fyzal on July 08, 2011, 11:13:18 PM
how long will the motor of the train will last before it retire?
I belong to a group that has a model railroad set up in our local museum. We use Bachmann Consolidations because Consolidations were common in the time period we model and we use specifically Bachmann Consolidations because of their long life. We treat them rather brutally in that we have the speed set at about half throttle and then simply turn the power to the track on and off as required. This gives a wheel spinning start and a sliding stop every time. Between each start and stop, they pull a five car train over a scale mile of track.
The first locomotives we used were not made by Bachmann and failed after less than 1000 trips around the track. Our Bachmann Consolidations last about 50,000 trips. That is 50,000 wheel spinning starts, 50,000 scale miles traveled, and 50,000 skidding stops, all with only occasional lubrication and maintenance. 50,000 scale miles is about 600 real miles or close to 1000 real kilometers. I don't know how you run your railroad, but my guess is these hardy locomotives will last you a long, long time.
Jim
Quote from: ACY on July 13, 2011, 10:45:27 AM
Quote from: fyzal on July 13, 2011, 01:32:48 AM
ok,since this is my first time maybe I will first try the MRC,but does it sound good?
Its sounds okay, that is why it is cheaper, the Tsunami sounds great though, but that is why it is more expensive ($120+).
$120? it's like another new train:-)
Well thanks to you all who shared their expertise and knowledge:-) I'm just excited waiting for my engine to arrive.
Quote from: fyzal on July 13, 2011, 08:34:32 PM
$120? it's like another new train:-)
Yes Tsunami decoders cost between $120-$140 plus shipping if you buy online or mail order. Tsunami decoders do not include a speaker. MRC sound decoders cost $80-$110, but include a speaker. Here is a link for a decoder you may want to consider: http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/500-1639 (http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/500-1639)
fyzal-
Yes, the sound electronics are expensive. You can generally shave a little off of the cost if you buy locos which already have DCC and sound installed versus equipping or reequipping locos yourself with aftermarket decoders. Of course you gain the advantage of being able to cherry pick for the best decoder when you do the installation yourself.
-- D
The prices on Tsunamis must be dropping. Tony's lists them in the $80 to $100 range except for the micros.
http://www.tonystrains.com/products/soundtraxx_tsunami.htm (http://www.tonystrains.com/products/soundtraxx_tsunami.htm)
A speaker will add $8 to $10.
Jim
Guys I saw some video putting wiring's on the tracks I mean attaching wires and soldering it, what is the purpose on doing that?It puts more power when you got a big layout?
fyzal,
On any layout, there is usually a bit of power degradation from where you attach your power pack to the furthest point distant from the power feeds. You will notice this as the train slows down and speeds up as it moves away from the power source and then gets closer. This will happen even with new track and a new power pack.
To make the train run smoothly anywhere on the layout, you can add 'feeder' wires to the track and run them back to the power pack. At first a general rule of thumb is to add feeder wires every 10 feet on your layout.
The larger my layout got, the more feeder wires I added. I got so OCD that I started adding feeder wires every time I added a piece of track. I went a little too far, but I have very smooth running trains as a result.
Usually you will have two thicker wires (14-16 gage) from your power pack and running the whole length of your layout. You then add small feeder wires from the track to the thicker wires. The thick wires are called a bus feed. Some people solder the feeder wires to the bus feed. Some use 'suitcase' clamps that connect the wires mechanically. Both methods seem to work fine.
My own little trick is to solder the feeder wires underneath the rail joiners, so they are hidden from view. There are many methods of soldering wires to the track.
That should be enough to ponder for now.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: fyzal on July 14, 2011, 05:07:12 AM
Guys I saw some video putting wiring's on the tracks I mean attaching wires and soldering it, what is the purpose on doing that?It puts more power when you got a big layout?
Over time you'll find that power connections and power pickup are the most problematic things on a layout whether it's a permanent or temporay layout. Rather than using the quick connect type of track that comes with train sets and that is common to sectional track, people will solder their connections to the track, and usually put connections every four to six feet (from below) when they have their track on a sheet of plywood or permanent layout. By making sure the track is seldom if ever a source of power related problems they can then focus on the engines themselves (well, and tenders as they're critical for power pickup, too) whenever an engine is erratic.
For any sort of permanent layout I strongly recommend soldering your power connections. If you sometimes have the track laid out and sometimes store it, I recommend Bachmann EZ track (the NS type with gray ballast) and that you have more than a single power connection track so that power loss around a loop (for example) doesn't result in the engine slowing as it gets further away from the power connection. That isn't a problem on small loops or other arrangements, but as things grow it can be. If you put the track in place for a while and then store it again, you need to be very careful about spreading rail joiners apart when putting the track together or taking it apart because the joiners are the power connections. Always have a few spare ones around in case you goof up and spread or bend some somehow. I find that EZ Track really helps to keep rail joiners in good shape, at least it does for me on the track we set up every year for Christmas and from time to time just for the heck of it. It also keeps the track from sliding apart as some other sectional track does since the ballest sections hold the track together taking stress off the rail joiners.
Marx train sets had something like EZ Track back in the fifties, and Bachmann sectional track takes that same idea and but turns it into a very detailed and very good sort of track even for portions of a large layout. I always wondered why the idea of ballest and track combined went away for decades. I like the fact that with very little detailing it looks better than I've ever been able to do with cork and ballast type roadbed.
wow!It seems its a long way for me to this hobby,but with your shared knowledge maybe I will be a pro railroad modeler in no time;-) thanks again!
fyzal,
you'll spend a lifetime and never come close to knowing all there is to know in this hobby. concentrate on learning about the things that interest you once you master the basics.
Quote from: Jim Banner on July 14, 2011, 12:53:55 AM
The prices on Tsunamis must be dropping. Tony's lists them in the $80 to $100 range except for the micros.
http://www.tonystrains.com/products/soundtraxx_tsunami.htm (http://www.tonystrains.com/products/soundtraxx_tsunami.htm)
I just looked at Walthers, who probably never has the cheapest prices, but that is what they ran from on there.
Tsunamis are flooding the Japanese market. ;)
I dont know if this question is a dumb question:-) ('forgive me") but I will still ask you expert guys,I received a bachmann santa fe flyer train set from my wife..I know its not one of those fancy trains but is there a way you can put dcc on this kind of trains?
just have patience with me guys for asking too many questions...hehe!
Quote from: fyzal on July 15, 2011, 08:39:06 AM
but I will still ask you expert guys,I received a bachmann santa fe flyer train set from my wife..I know its not one of those fancy trains but is there a way you can put dcc on this kind of trains?
You can add a decoder if you know how to hard wire a decoder, it is not DCC ready or plug and play. So if you can soldier and know where to soldier all the wires to then it will not be a difficult install. Remember to keep things insulated from each other to prevent making magic smoke.
Even if you do not know how to hard wire a decoder, you can learn. There are only six wires to worry about. Two connect to the wheels through the existing power pickups. Two go to the motor. And two go the the headlight. As ACY says, you must keep things insulated. Specifically, you MUST remove all the existing connections to the motor including any that are through contacts touching the metal chassis. And you MUST remove all the existing connections to the headlight. The only way the motor is allowed to get electricity is from the orange and grey decoder wires. Any other ways will damage the decoder. The light is similar except it must get its power only from the blue and white decoder wires.
For more information, take a look at this article:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/EMD_FT-B/EMD_FT-B.html (http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/EMD_FT-B/EMD_FT-B.html)
If shows how to install a decoder in a Bachmann FT-B. The only difference between the FT-B and the FT-A is that the FT-A has a headlight. If you do not know how to solder, borrow or buy a soldering iron with a small tip and rated about 25 watts. Also buy some fine, flux core radio solder (NOT ACID CORE!!!) Then read a basic article on how to solder such as this one:
http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/TechNotes/soldering.html (http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/TechNotes/soldering.html)
Then practice on scraps of wire, bits of brass, old tin cans etc. until you can make a good joint every time. Even if you never install a decoder, knowing how to solder is a very useful technique for a model railroader to learn.
Jim
yes I know how to solder thanks to my engineering college days:-) so what I must learn is the proper wiring so I will not damaging the decoder.thanks! another question soon....
btw,guys what type of train is the blue train from the movie UNSTOPPABLE? i love that train
They used a whole bunch, most were from W&LE.
fyzal-
If you're trained in electrical or electronic engineering you'll have absolutely NO problem with DCC. Plus, the instructions which come with decoders are designed for people with no such background so it should be very hard for you to go wrong.
-- D
Quote from: fyzal on July 16, 2011, 02:05:47 PM
btw,guys what type of train is the blue train from the movie UNSTOPPABLE? i love that train
here are the units from unstoppable
1206, the unit denzell washington ran: emd sd40-2 with modified cab windows
2001, the passenger special engine: emd gp9, rebuilt to gp11 by illinois central gulf.
767 & 777, the runaways, ge ac4400cw, built for cp rail
5580 & 5624 aka 7355 & 7375. these two appeared in a couple of scenes, most notably the scene where they rolled over and caught fire: LATE emd sd40-2. these are 2 of the last 4 sd40-2s built, 1986.
I'm mildly surprised there is still interest in this fictional road--and even more surprised that there are web links for it!
Roster--click on links for pix:
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/locoList.aspx?id=AWVR
Somebody is into computer-generated trains (this has been called V Scale, for "virtual"). and he has developed additional power for this movie road.
http://blawnoxlocomotiveworks.blogspot.com/2011/02/allegheny-west-virginia-railroad-awvr.html
More photos, from Railpictures:
http://www.railpictures.net/showphotos.php?railroad=Allegheny%20and%20West%20Virginia%20(AWVR)
Have fun.
thanks for those info guys!!