For those who run battery power and remote control. I have three 3' tunnels in my line. If I switch to battery and remote control will my trains loose signal in the tunnels? I'm new to RC and I'm not sure about RC interference problems and if the RC unit must keep in constant contact with the loco. ??? ;D
Quote from: lrparks on July 17, 2007, 08:45:33 AM
For those who run battery power and remote control. I have three 3' tunnels in my line. If I switch to battery and remote control will my trains loose signal in the tunnels? I'm new to RC and I'm not sure about RC interference problems and if the RC unit must keep in constant contact with the loco. ??? ;D
The RCS TX handpiece does not need to be in constant touch with the receiver/controller in the loco.
Once the onboard equipment has received a command it remembers that command until told to do something else.
Depending on how deep and how long the tunnel is, and what it is constructed of, like all R/C equipment, it may be difficult to stop and start a loco whilst it is inside the tunnel. That can usually be achieved by placing the TX handpiece on the track and the signal will be inducted via the rails into the loco.
Rest assured, that unlike digital proportional control, the loco will not go out of control from loss of signal.
Thanks for the info.
On that note I'm planning on purchasing an Annie Big Hauler D&RGW or ET&WNC(can't decide which). Can you suggest a battery/remote control system? I'm not familiar with the RCS TX. Do you know of any how to articles on the web?
If you go to Tony's site http://www.rcs-rc.com/ (http://www.rcs-rc.com/) under the top menu heading of "Large Scale" click on "How To" and there is a list of many articles on installs. None specific for the ten wheeler but there is plenty of room in the tender.
I worked up a trailer car RC system from RCS for my Bachmann bashed Dunkirk. I have a 14.4v 3.6 Ah NiMH pack for it and get over 5 hours of run time with it.
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n214/altterrain/new%20construction%206-07/TrailerCarRC.jpg)
-Brian
Thanks again. Very helpful.
lrpark
I was planning on using aluminum track, but since alumimum track is a poor choice for voltage transferance, I now plan on using stainless track instead and I am going to fabricate my own R/C control and I am also going to fabricate my own 2 channel R/X AND T/X, the R/X will not be battery powered and will use the track voltage to power the R/X and the electronic direction, speed control that I will also fabricate fabricate myself.
I will be able to use the track voltage, no matter what it will be by using the appropriate resistor to reduce the track voltage to whatever voltage is required by the R/X and the electronic speed, voltage controller. Only the T/X will be battery operated. I also believe that if you use a R/C system that is FM, PCM based operation that you will have no problem with tunnels etc.
Quote from: new G on July 17, 2007, 11:56:48 AM
lrpark
I was planning on using aluminum track, but since alumimum track is a poor choice for voltage transferance, I now plan on using stainless track instead and I am going to fabricate my own R/C control and I am also going to fabricate my own 2 channel R/X AND T/X, the R/X will not be battery powered and will use the track voltage to power the R/X and the electronic direction, speed control that I will also fabricate fabricate myself.
I will be able to use the track voltage, no matter what it will be by using the appropriate resistor to reduce the track voltage to whatever voltage is required by the R/X and the electronic speed, voltage controller. Only the T/X will be battery operated. I also believe that if you use a R/C system that is FM, PCM based operation that you will have no problem with tunnels etc.
Lots of luck.
Better re-visit the "since alumimum track is a poor choice for voltage transferance" part.
Then, look at 30%, 40%, and 100% price increases on Brass track, with a promise that SS will also be in the same boat.
Factor in clamps.
Factor in wiring, feeders, etc.
Factor in the cost of high enough amperage power supplies to actually drive the loco, with grades, longer trains, tighter curves.
We won't even get into wet ballast yet, but that's another entire portion of the equation.
Then, using resistors to drop power is a VERY poor choice of control: "I will be able to use the track voltage, no matter what it will be by using the appropriate resistor to reduce the track voltage to whatever voltage is required by the R/X and the electronic speed, voltage controller.
Have fun, and report back your success.
Hold on. Aluminum is the better conductor if you can't get brass. While it isn't as low in internal resistance as copper or brass, it is a good conductor when compared to steel or stainless steel.
I have had trouble locating a good source for aluminum track. Any sugestions? I have already purchase a large amount of USA brass track, but I eventually want to add to my line using cheaper aluminum rack since I will be converting to battery and remote control. If I expand using aluminum I will add a plastic coupler between the brass and aluminum to avoid the dissimilar metal coupling problems.
Quote from: japasha on July 17, 2007, 02:54:17 PM
Hold on. Aluminum is the better conductor if you can't get brass. While it isn't as low in internal resistance as copper or brass, it is a good conductor when compared to steel or stainless steel.
Aluminum metal is an excellent conductor. The
aluminum oxide (Al2O3 or "alumina") that forms on the surface of aluminum is one of the best insulators available, as well as being a very hard material. Not a very good choice for track power.
Happy RRing,
Jerry
Quote from: lrparks on July 17, 2007, 03:12:18 PM
I have had trouble locating a good source for aluminum track. Any sugestions? I have already purchase a large amount of USA brass track, but I eventually want to add to my line using cheaper aluminum rack since I will be converting to battery and remote control. If I expand using aluminum I will add a plastic coupler between the brass and aluminum to avoid the dissimilar metal coupling problems.
Llagas Creek - http://www.llagastrack.com/pricelist.html (http://www.llagastrack.com/pricelist.html)
Split Jaw makes special code 332 to 250 rail joiners - http://www.railclamp.com/displayCategory.jsp?categoryId=9&vId=20784 (http://www.railclamp.com/displayCategory.jsp?categoryId=9&vId=20784)
-Brian
My RCS gear operates fine in and outside of my tunnels. The longest is right around 10' long, covered with a few feet of dirt.....
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/calenelson/yard/Const1/after%20baby/triptunnel.jpg)
It's not a line of sight type control, so it "works" over, under, and around "things".
I can trigger all functions whilst the train is 'under ground'
hope some of this helped...
cale
for the other a link to a Llagas dealer....
http://dnkgoods.home.mindspring.com/index.html (http://dnkgoods.home.mindspring.com/index.html)
Wow calenelson that's a long tunnel :o. Have you had any problems with it like keeping it cleaned out.
no problems yet!
here is a b4 shot
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/calenelson/yard/Const1/Day5b.jpg)
Quote from: japasha on July 17, 2007, 02:54:17 PM
Hold on. Aluminum is the better conductor if you can't get brass. While it isn't as low in internal resistance as copper or brass, it is a good conductor when compared to steel or stainless steel.
That's what I said when I told him to re-visit that issue.
Quote from: new G on July 17, 2007, 11:56:48 AM
... I am also going to fabricate my own 2 channel R/X AND T/X ...
This raises a number of interesting questions:
Are you a licenced radio technician/technologist/engineer?
What problems will will you have with the FCC?
Why only two channels? Why not build it from the get go to operate sound as well?
How much more will it cost to develop your own radio control compared to buying an off-the-shelf unit?
What is your time line for developing this equipment?
I don't mean to discourage you if you are developing your own radio control because you enjoy the challenge. I spent a dozen years setting up computer assisted block control on my H0 railroad back in the days before DCC. And I enjoyed doing it. But I never kidded myself into thinking I was saving money or that I was coming up with the ultimate form of model train control.
Jim,
perhaps he will be doing for self satisgaction, but at US$39.95 for a 2 channel AM rig complete with 2 x servos, entry level battery R/C cannot get much cheaper.
A 2 channel rig + a suitable ESC can control both speed/direction and have two sound triggers, for not much more than US$120.
Fantastic range & "Glitch Free" to boot.
Tony, I stand corrected. The old Bachmann 4-6-0 radio control was one channel and controlled both speed and direction. I should have known (or rembered) better.
It seems to me that at one time you made an add on for a car/boat/plane r/c receiver that allowed it to control both speed and direction of a battery powered motor. Is that what you were refering to?
Quote from: Jim Banner on July 18, 2007, 05:06:16 PM
SNIP
It seems to me that at one time you made an add on for a car/boat/plane r/c receiver that allowed it to control both speed and direction of a battery powered motor. Is that what you were refering to?
I still do.
A µp controlled system sold under the
EVOLUTION R/C brand.
It uses the same hardware as my RCS stuff with speed and direction controlled by one channel. The other channel can be used for another loco or sound triggers.