Hi there! I have a pair of Spectrum DDA40Xs and a couple Athearn locomotives (including a newly acquired Veranda Turbine) and I plan on building a 5-train DC setup. It will be a Union Pacific layout. I plan on picking up a Kato SD90MAC, a Broadway Limited AC6000 and an Athearn U50. The layout won't have any turnouts; it will be a set of 5 ovals, perhaps with the center track being a figure-8. I plan on making the board out of 3/4" MDF with dimensions of 8'x6'-6". The short dimension is to keep it semi-portable, making it possible to move it through any standard doorway. I might use an F7 to run the center track, since that will be the tightest radius.
Boring plans? Probably. I just like watching the big Union Pacific monsters going around the tracks. Yard operations have never been part of my daydreams.
I have never done anything like this before so I have been reading these forums for days to learn as much as I can. I'm excited to get it all started!
Of course, it is your railroad, but for the size you want, it would be a tight fit to do that in N-scale.
I can understand why you would prefer DC to DCC (I use only DC myself). But why limit yourself to a lot of track that will not connect to form alternate routes? If you can manage to cram that much track into your limited space, you will have no room left for scenery or buildings.
Your options are not limited to choosing between main-line running and yard operations.
You have enough room to build a double-track main line. Why not connect them with crossovers, and side tracks to park the other three trains while you have two in operation?
The more options you can exercise in the operation of your model railroad, the less likely you will be bored with it.
Les
If I have to build a larger layout to accommodate 5 separate tracks, then I guess I'll have to. I want 5 trains running at once. I like the busy look of trains running in all directions, passing each other, running alongside each other, etc. They look so good running - I really don't want my engines parked.
Perhaps the semi-portability will have to take a back seat to a practical size for the number of tracks.
Well, since you like the UP, maybe you could try what the real UP is doing. They have a double-track main line, with a third track laid between the two. Crossovers connect the center track with both main lines. The center track can thus be used as a passing track for either main, or a third train can be run on it.
You do not need DCC to do this.
Les
Thanks for the suggestions, but I will be building this layout with no turnouts or crossings between the lines. I'm not interested in alternate routes. The most changing I will do is perhaps manually changing the freight consists between the lines.
I would also like to mention that of all my family and friends, there's not one of them interested in model trains. It's a real treat to be able to discuss trains with others who share the passion. :)
Sasha, After each engine has gone around and around ten to twenty times, then what?
An other thirty times?
It may get boring after the fiftieth to a hundred times, if there is no way to switch cars around. :o
Just my observation of the hobby. :(
I'll have five of my favorite locomotives all going around at the same time but at varying speeds and directions. I can listen to music and/or read while the trains are doing their thing. Adding freight when I can will be interesting, too. When I said 'boring', I meant boring for others, but not for me. I'm excited to see these models all running their own lines on the same layout.
EDIT: One of my main objectives in the construction will be to keep the tracks as level and smooth as I possibly can. I also want to make sure the tracks and wheels are in the best conductive shape possible. I have read about soldering the joints, running busses under the layout to each track section, etc. I plan to keep my trains running as smoothly and as powerful as they can be.
Sasha-
You can add some interesting variety to your multi-independent track layout by not making all of the tracks concentric; you can also have trains on different levels or crossing one another. Add some scenery, structures and tunnels so your trains pop in and out of view and you'll have a more animated layout even though your trains will disappear at times. It's especially important to conceal turn-back curves on the ends of a layout because model trains are their most toylike going around curves which are way, way out of proportion with the prototypes or original trains. And that's the case on even the most expansive club layouts. I mention these ideas because, like others, I'm worried that you will tire of nothing but trains running around in circles.
It sounds like your family won't be involved so you won't have that neat part of the hobby. Frankly, I don't think you'll find any model railroaders who will be interested in a railroad which doesn't offer operational choices. That means you'll be doing your model railroading alone, which is certainly okay, but you'll be completely dependent on the trains for your enjoyment since there won't be anyone to share experiences with.
You obviously have a clear idea of what you want to do and I respect that. After all, one of the cardinal rules of model railroading, maybe THE cardinal rule of model railroading, is that it's your railroad so you can do whatever you want with it. However, and I'm not trying to tell you what to do or anything, I am concerned that your interest will soon wane if your trains just run in circles. That's fine for a train under a Christmas tree but it really grows old otherwise. The other responders and I are just sharing our experience with our trains -- mine goes back nearly 60 years -- because we don't want to see someone put a lot of time, energy and money into a model railroad and then grow bored with it.
I strongly urge you to reconsider your plan unless you have done something like it before and it held your interest for the long term.
Two final comments: The general rule is that no tracks of a model railroad should be more than 30" (24" is much better) from the edge of the layout. This is because trains and scenery at the edge of a layout will be damaged when reaching in farther, no matter how careful the model railroader is. The last comment has to do with point of view. Modelers have learned to build layouts much higher than the coffee table or card table levels of the past. Trains are more interesting and realistic when seen from closer to human eye level than bird's eye level.
Whatever you eventually build, enjoy your railroad and welcome to the hobby and this board. Come back often. We'll all gladly help even if you don't follow our suggestions and I know I can speak for everyone when I say we'll all be interested in your progress.
-- D
Thank you for the welcome! I have been on and off this board all day. I work out of my house so I can be online anytime I please. I plan to be here a lot. This is a great board!
I haven't shown my little cousin (she is 13) my trains yet, but I am hoping to get her interested. I think I'll wait until I have at least 1 track to run a train on. I could let her pick a favorite locomotive and let her run it.
Quote from: YouThe general rule is that no tracks of a model railroad should be more than 30" (24" is much better) from the edge of the layout.
I don't quite understand. Did you mean that tracks and scenery
should not be closer than 30" (or 24") from any edges of my layout? I was planning on scenery of the old mining-type variety, but on the inside of my outermost track, that way the train on that track isn't covered up. I have never modeled scenery before. I'm a bit anxious and a tad nervous to do it, but at the same time, I can't wait to start! Nothing spectacular, just shabby, old, aged wood-type scenery and dirt, dead grass, weeds, etc.
Just talking about it gets me excited about starting. I think just adding new freight cars and experimenting with different locomotives on different tracks in both directions will keep me from getting bored. If I can get my cousin to want in on it, all the better.
Sasha-
I'm sorry if I wasn't clear. What I mean to say is that a modeler shouldn't have to reach more than 24" to 30" to adjust trains, clean up a wreck or correct a derailment. The farther we reach in the closer (lower) we get to trains and scenery in the foreground. We can avoid harming foreground items if we limit how far in we have to go.
-- D
Oh okay. I understand and it makes good sense. I do plan to keep things as flat and level as I can. No crossings = no train wrecks. Track laid carefully and smoothly = no derailments (I hope!). I wish I wasn't in the minority with my plans, but I'm building this because watching trains is relaxing and I love the Union Pacific's yellow & gray giants. I may not be as much of a railroader as most of the members here, but I know I'm going to enjoy it for a long time. Besides - nothing is really permanent, right? There's always an option for change and expansion. :)
I found an old piece of VHS tape where I captured my Centennial heading up several smaller diesels around an oval I used to have in the attic over my garage. I only kept it up there until I realized the heat and dust would soon ruin my trains. That was back in 2001. The attic isn't exactly a place to relax and watch your trains do their thing. It would have been great, though. It's a big attic. You'll see that it's not really an actual layout, just tracks and trains. Here's the video:
Trains 2001 (http://s92251487.onlinehome.us/video/trains1.wmv)
I now have three more engines on the way for my layout. Another Bachmann Spectrum DDA40X, a Athearn DD35A and a Kato SD90/43MAC. After that, perhaps a BLI AC6000, another Spectrum DDA40X, an Athearn Genesis DDA40X. I also want to try one of the newer Bachmann DDA40Xs and an Athearn U50.
If there were plastic GE U50Cs, Alco C855s and GE 8,500 horsepower turbines, they would also be on my list.
One can dream...
Two of the three locomotives arrived today. A Bachmann Spectrum DDA40X and the Kato SD90/43MAC. I immediately performed my modification on the DDA40X to make it all-wheel electrical pickup. Worked perfect.
The brand new Kato, on the other hand... well, the motor was D.O.A. Going to have to return it. Not the most sterling first impression.
Just sayin'.
Sasha, did you check to see if the light board was firmly in place?
If not then that may be the problem.
The other thing is to test the motor directly from the track with jumper wires directly from the track to motor.
The first thing I did was check the motor directly. If I applied power, then manually turned the flywheel, it would vibrate a little and make a humming sound, but that was it. I tried a lot of different positions on the throttle as well.
Still waiting to hear from the seller about the return...
I took a picture of my newest DDA40X along with my original model and the Veranda Turbine... then I wisked them away to a flowery valley via Photoshop (my skills are dubious at best). I hope it's alright to post pictures for no other reason than to show the trains to interested parties. If it's alright, I will post the picture "inline" instead of just a link.
http://s92251487.onlinehome.us/images/upthree.jpg
i am not a fan of kato.
did you try turnijng the motor by hand to see if there is a bind somewhere in the drive train? the motor should turn freely by hand, and all wheels should move when you turn the motor.
Yes, I manually turned the flywheel, over and over. The gears and wheels turned freely when I turned the flywheel. I tried to get it to run for about 30 minutes before boxing it back up.
Sasha, since you are doing DC controll, how are you going to controll all the trains? You will need a power pack for each track. With DC if you power all the tracks with one power pack, all trains will travel in same direction at the same speed. Joe.
I have seven transformers, five will be used. I can't wait to get it started. I think I'll join two 4'x8' pieces of 3/4" MDF.
Remember: it's your railroad. What you consider great others might find boring. It's all about having fun. Post photos as you get going. Joe.
Indeed... it will be an all-Union Pacific setup, with the biggest plastic HO U.P. models I can find. :)
Sasha, I liked the photo of the three UP engines. It shows lots of big diesel power. :)
Quote from: Ken G Price on June 05, 2012, 08:21:08 PM
Sasha, I liked the photo of the three UP engines. It shows lots of big diesel power. :)
... And a little
Gas Turbine power!
I got my Athearn DD35 today. Run great, looks great, but it's really
loud. Pulls almost as hard as my #6900 Spectrum DDA40X. :o
I did a little wiring to fortify the electrical paths between the pickups and the motors/lights. Worked out well.
The roster is almost complete! ;D
EDIT/UPDATE: I applied a little gear grease to both gear towers and the DD35 is a bit quieter now. :)
Quote from: Sasha on June 07, 2012, 05:35:20 AM
I got my Athearn DD35 today. Run great, looks great, but it's really loud.EDIT/UPDATE: I applied a little gear grease to both gear towers and the DD35 is a bit quieter now. :)
Sasha-
Somebody will probably scream at me for writing this but consider putting a little plastic-safe caulk on the inside of plastic locomotive shells to inhibit the soundboard effect of the thin, flat parts of the shell resonnating with the motor/gear noise. I've found it can make quite a difference. Of course, whether you can do this with a particular model depends on whether there is a place on the inside walls where you can add the caulk without clearance problems. I would assume that would not be an insurmountable issue on a larger loco like a DD35.
-- D
Are you talking about a simple clear silicone sealant?
Sasha-
Clear, white, sky blue pink, it doesn't matter since it will be on the inside where it won't show. Just a good substantial smear of any color will suppress vibration and resonent noise.
-- D
Here's a question:
When you guys go to fasten down flex track, do you hammer the nails in hard enough to pin the plastic ties to the board or just enough to hold the track somewhat in place?
Thanks!
Quote from: Sasha on July 03, 2012, 01:31:18 PM
Here's a question:
When you guys go to fasten down flex track, do you hammer the nails in hard enough to pin the plastic ties to the board or just enough to hold the track somewhat in place?
Thanks!
I first build my benchwork from 3/4" "workshop" Cabinet Plywood cut into 4" deep lengths.
I then lay the same 3/4" plywood where the tracks will run.
I then cover that with 1/2" Homasote, that's real brand name "Homasote" not some brownish fibre board that the Big Box store clerk tells you "It's the same as Homasote!" It ain't, so don't buy it.
I then draw my track centre lines.
When it comes time to lay my track, code 83 Atlas "Super Track(?) No. 6 switches and flex track I lay a bead of white glue, yes that's "white glue", down the centre line of the track and spread it with my fingers and then lay the track in place and hold it down with push pins.
The white glue holds the track well enough for testing the track plan and it is easy to lift the track without damaging the track or the Homasote underneath. I've done this a couple of times already.
Once I'm happy with the track, I will ballast the track using a 4x1 ratio of water and white glue to hold the ballast and track firmly in place.
Even then, if you soak the track and ballast with water, it will turn the glue and ballast into a "gloopy" mess and you will still be able to modify the track plan.
See here for my progress over the past several weeks using the above method, other than ballasting, I'm not at that stage yet: -
http://s94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/The%20new%20Great%20Eastern%20Railway/
Trying to decide whether to use 3/4" MDF or 3/4" high grade plywood for my layout. What are the advantages either way? Sound dampening? Longest-lasting flat surface?
Thanks!
Sasha-
The pros and cons are about what you probably know already. MDF is cheaper and some will say a little more stable (I haven't had that experience). High-grade plywood is stronger and may give you a better surface to work from. Lots of folks use birch cabinet plywood for its strength and quality.
I'm not so sure that you need 3/4" material, however. Five-eighths inch or even half inch should be fine if you have adequate framing and bracing. Also, you might want to consider using two-inch thick extruded foam insulation for your base, assuming you are talking about a table surface rather than a cooke cutter layout or one which is open except for the subroadbed. Foam makes an excellent surface, is lightweight, is afforable, is easy to work with and allows you to put some features below track level f you want to, things like streams or trackside ditches.
Good luck with your new pike.
-- D
Dear Sasha,
We recently used MDF beadboard in an addition to our home. It's really tough on saw blades, the dust lasts for weeks and is bad to breath, it's heavy, and it absorbs water like a sponge.
I would use plywood!
Have fun!
the Bach-man