I've searched and searched the forum, poked and prodded... Finally I couldn't take it anymore and took a pair of pliers to a Consolidation to remove the domes.
Will have to fill in the large hole as that dome will be moved forward--actually replaced with a brass dome. The other hole will be covered with another brass dome.
Willing to take any tips on how to fill in the forward hole. ;D
Ouch!
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0402.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0401.jpg)
Other parts have been removed as well. They were easier to yank out.
Regards,
Jonathan
Johnathan: When I run into a problem like this, I first take a number of thickness's of masking tape to cover the hole. When I feel it is stiff enough I cover the opening, being carefull not to touch the opening after application as in an area as large as you're trying to fill, the tape will sag a bit, hence the need for layers. Then fill the hole with a tooling epoxy. You have to work slowly as air bubbles get trapped. Don't make the first layer to thick as you can hold it up to a light to check for bubbles. If you find any close to the surface, open them up and patch. then you can make it as thick as you need. When set, 4 to 8 hours or when you can confirm the epoxy has set (not dry) you can remove the tape which may need a little plastic filler to match the contour. I use a product called Devcon Epoxy , the slow set ,not the fast set. It has one tube that is black and one that is ivory in color. Mix 1 to 1, so its idiot proof. Have been using there plastic steel epoxy to cast cars and parts from my own masters since the late sixty's. The only things Ive found to wreck the stuff is apple cider vinegar and denatured alcohol. Lacquer thinner doesn't seem to bother it when wiping it to remove oils, pr yer to painting. You can drill and tap the stuff. I use the epoxy all the time for projects on the bench. Bill
jonathan-
Put a thin sheet of styrene -- thin enough that you can contour it to the shape of the boiler jacket -- inside the boiler and let it dry. Then use some squadron putty or Bondo to fill the low area. Once that has cured you can file and sand the patch to the exact shape of the boiler. This method results in the least intrusion into the boiler volume so yo are least likely to have any clearance problems.
-- D
Jonathan
There was an article in MR in whitch Ian Rice did this for Marty McGuirck on a kitbash to make the Bachmann 2-8-0 look like a B&M? loco. If I remember correctly this was also reprinted in a Kalmbach book called "Steam Locomotives which is still in print last time I looked. I think Ian did something like what D was talking about.
Hope this helps,
Paul G
Thanks for the advice, guys. I'm going to try two methods. The filler suggestion (wonderful) will be tried on the smaller hole.
On the larger hole, I'm trying this:
Construction paper over the hole:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0403.jpg)
Trace the pattern from underneath:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0404.jpg)
Transfer to some plastic. This is resin from a craftsman kit:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0405.jpg)
This is a 3/4" socket. Now for a heat gun and some prayers:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0409.jpg)
Potato Chip:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0411.jpg)
Fortunately, it's a bit too large, so I can file down to fit:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0412.jpg)
I tried this way first, because I have the tools and materials. If it doesn't work, it's off to Michael's or a Hobby store to get the stuff to use the filler method.
Thanks again. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
Just a little update...
I beveled the edges of both the potato chip and the hole. This got the pieces to snuggle in tight.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0413.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0414.jpg)
This doesn't show up in a photo, but I filled the underneath space with epoxy. When that cures, I will run a tiny bead of epoxy around the seam on the outside. Then it's on to fun with tiny strips of sand paper and a little paint.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0418.jpg)
If anyone were curious about this project, I'm attempting to build a B&O E-27b from an undecorated Connie (with Sound). Have ordered some detail parts from various places.
Here's a couple shots of the tender. I added panels to the coal bunker along with making the back panel perpendicular (as the B&O was want to do). All I need for the tender is a Doghouse. Talk about mission impossible. If anyone has a source for doghouses, I would be grateful to know about it.
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0420.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0421.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0422.jpg)
Go Jonny go! I'm watching this thread due interest in the same topic, I want to be able to do this to a bunch of bachmann engines I have to make them less generic
Jonathan: Don't use a filler much harder than the boiler plastic or you are asking for trouble. Many times when I run into this situation with plastic, I use a paint that has started to thicken a bit and paint the seam. When dry, redo if needed. Have found that fillers in such a small crack pulls lose when sanded down to cover. Paint adheres tighter. Probably the best approach for the boiler band is to remove the remaining cast on segments and replace it with a strip cut from .005 styrene and epoxy it down. Don't use a Keytone based glue , as the .005 styrene will melt do to the thickness of the styrene. Another approach I use is to lightly paint lacquer thinner to the seam. Be carefull not to overdue this, as it is a Keytone and must evaporate before you reapply. Great idea an really looks like it will be successful. Best wishes . Bill
Jonathan-
I think Blackstone sells their dog houses as separate pieces. I don't know how many different models they have, maybe only one. In the alternative, scratchbuilding a doghouse shouldn't be too hard since it's such a small, simple structure with all straight parts. Unsurprisingly, your work looks terrific so far.
-- D
Rye,
I'll keep posting as I make progress on the boiler. Thanks.
Bill,
Thanks for the tip on the seam. I like the thick paint idea, especially if I use a strange color like green or blue. Then I can see my progress as I sand. Hadn't occured to me that epoxy was a stronger material than the boiler plastic and resin potato chip. I wonder if plain old spackle is too weak?
I have some styrene, I THINK, is the right width for the boiler band. And yes, I was going to use epoxy to attach it.
This area is going to have some parts sitting on top: double feed check valve, bell and a little piping. So I think any minor boo-boos will be somewhat hidden by the appliances and a little weathering.
Regards,
Jonathan
P.S. Thanks, Doneldon. I learned it all here. :) Will have to check out Blackstone. Greenway only has the PRR version left in their inventory. Somebody use to sell a white metal kit, can't remember who.
Quote from: jonathan on June 13, 2012, 01:39:35 PM
I wonder if plain old spackle is too weak?
Jonathan-
It's strong enough but it's brittle when cured. I would expect the seam to open up fairly quickly and you don't want that. Even latex spackle would be too brittle. Too, thick wall paint with larger pigments covers up the grain in spackle very well but model paints might not.
-- D
Jonathan : Squadron Products makes a filler that model airplane guys use. Green putty (green tube) is a little hard and have noticed it shrinks a little, even after long periods of time. They also have a product that's very soft (white tube) and is easy to sand. Both products are in most hobby shops. Tamiya makes a product I have read wonderfull reviews about, but haven't seen any yet. The spackle is water based and wont stick, The material I discussed is a solvet base but is made for plastic. bill
OK, I'm trying the thick-paint trick to see what happens. Will let it sit for a day before I start sanding. My new domes arrived last night. They seem a bit small to my eye, but you take what you can get. On the bright side they fit the boiler well, so not much adjustment is required:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0425.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0424.jpg)
Finished the tender this morning. I sealed up some holes due to my raising the coal load. Hopefully, this will keep the sound working efficiently:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0426.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum
Having just checked my prototype photos, the domes don't seem that small to me, now. They are certainly closer to the stock domes. They will get a skosh taller when I add the cover plate and big nut on the top. :)
Jonathan;
Why not construct your own doghouse by scratchbuilding? You see, guys; this is where getting comfortable with scratchbuilding can get you out of a jam fairly easily. There are several good references as well as some back-issues in several modelling mags.
Rich
Excellent work, something I haven't tried yet myself!
Jonathan, I'd second Whiz Kid's suggestion and consider scratchbuilding that doghouse. The photos I could find of them showed structures that were pretty basic--actually, crude in some cases--and very likely at least some were cobbled up by a shop crew somewhere. You could use almost any material--plastic, thin metal, even paper or cardstock--to form what is essentially a small box with door and window details. Unless I had real specific drawings or other information to accurately scale the 'house, I'd also fasten it very lightly to the tender deck, the idea being that it would be easy to remove if I decided I'd want to build a better one. Of course, keep in mind that a light fastening will also make it easy to knock off by accident. . .
Of course, you've no doubt noticed that a lot of B&O freight engines didn't use a doghouse to provide a seat for the brakeman, but had a little seating extension to the cab on the left side. It's hard to tell, but it looks like those extensions may have narrowed the gangway between engine and tender; they certainly introduced some unusual handrails on the left side. Wonder what it was like to ride in that compartment that was just big enough for your butt, and had your butt hanging out in the gangway?
An out-of-service E-27 No. 205 (renumbered in the mid-1950s to make room for more diesels) shows off this extension on the cab.
http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo205sa.jpg
Same engine from the other side, apparently at about the same time, with what looks like the same 2-8-2 coupled behind it:
http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/bo205s.jpg
We'll close with a link to a bunch of color B&O photos that turned up in the search at Northeast Railfan; have fun:
Basic link to the galleries of the photo provider:
http://eriksenphoto.smugmug.com/
Standard gauge gallery:
http://eriksenphoto.smugmug.com/Trains/Standard-gauge
B&O in the 1950s:
http://eriksenphoto.smugmug.com/Trains/Standard-gauge/Baltimore-Ohio-Railroad/2510583_FZDZBQ#!i=133776612&k=sPcYE
From the early days of the B&O Museum in Baltimore:
http://eriksenphoto.smugmug.com/Trains/Standard-gauge/Baltimore-Ohio-Railroad-Museum/2510790_fLHKmP#!i=131838896&k=FPrDx
Have fun.
Progress:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0427.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0430.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0431.jpg)
Sorry for the bad photos (poor lighting). That's not a shadow around the filled in hole. It's a combination of the paint and epoxy. The transition between the two pieces is nice and smooth. Have decided to paint the boiler and details as one. Was going to paint the parts separately, but thought better of it.
I have considered a scratchbuilt doghouse. Will keep looking for now. I'm not the best scratchbuilder in the world.
I have done previous B&O models with the brakeman's hooch behind the fireman. Just wanted to try something different this time. Thanks, guys for the great references and suggestions.
Since the dome-moving topic has been covered, I probably don't need to keep posting my progress. I will throw in a few photos when the loco is complete. The fun continues! ;D
Regards,
Jonathan
As always, great stuff, Jonathon. Helps remind folks that this is also a craft hobby, not just a train-running hobby.
Johnathon,
Great Project!
Bowser has a couple of doghouse kits listed on their site.
Shelly 716 and 717.
http://www.bowser-trains.com/Prices/Selley%20HO-O%20Prices.htm (http://www.bowser-trains.com/Prices/Selley%20HO-O%20Prices.htm)
Regards,
John
******************************************************************************************
My father was not a failure. After all, he was the father of a president of the United States. >> Harry S. Truman
Thanks, ebt. :) Somehow, I need to get back to the train-running part. The crafty part takes up most of my fun time.
Thanks, also, John. I saw the Selley parts somwhere before... could have been the Bowser website. My concern is there's no picture. I could be ordering a kit that builds a doghouse that goes in the back yard, you know, for a dog. Selley had a lot of scenery stuff as I recall. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on June 15, 2012, 06:22:02 AM
I have considered a scratchbuilt doghouse. Will keep looking for now. I'm not the best scratchbuilder in the world.
Jonathan-
Maybe not but, judging from what you've displayed here time and time again, I'll bet you wouldn't be too far behind number one if you tried. You always do such excellent and neat work. You never fail to impress me.
-- D
OK, OK. I know a good arm twisting when I feel one. ;)
While watching the U.S. Open this evening, I spent about an hour slapping together this rough doghouse. Before I start trimming, smoothing and painting...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0436.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0435.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0434.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0433.jpg)
Will this do? Or should I go back to shopping? ;D
Regards,
Jonathan
You did that in an hour? While watching the tube?
Man, you put me to shame!
I'd say it looks pretty good, and furthermore, I don't think you'll find a commercial part that looks like the one you have. What I would consider unique characteristics that I haven't seen on the other doghouses include the handrails, the fairly large roof overhang, and what appear to be window covers that swing up. Certainly it's more than good enough for a "stand-in" if you decided you either could find one that looks like this or decided to build a better one.
"Go, Jonny, go. . ."
Quote from: J3a-614 on June 16, 2012, 12:01:54 AM
Man, you put me to shame!
I'd say it looks pretty good
"Go, Jonny, go. . ."
jonathan-
What he said!
--D
Well, thank you. If it looks good enough when done, I could use white glue to tack it on, in case I change my mind.
The doghouse is made from two resin box car doors, leftover from a kit. I traced around the tackboards, with a hobby knife, to cut out the window holes. Used some kind of square block as a jig when gluing it together. During a commercial, I took the roof out to the garage and sanded it down thin, before attaching. Pretty much eye-balled the whole thing.
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum
A little primer: one can just make out a bit of seam still showing. A little more sanding required.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0437.jpg)
Some detail parts to be added later:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0441.jpg)
Jon, don't feel terrible about "eyeballing" something like this. Looking at some of the doghouses on the B&O, I get the impression that's what some of the shop crews did.
It's my understanding that the shop crews of the Rio Grande Southern also were "eyeball artists" when it came to building that road's Galloping Geese motor cars in the 1920s and 1930s.
Jon-nice work as usual.
Information for readers about Selley - the brand is old. Bowser bought the line ages ago and no longer produce the items. Also the freight car and engine parts are OO scale (4mm to the foot) so they are 10% larger than HO parts. Their cast figures can be used mixed with HO scale figures - they just look like bigger people!
jonathan,
Sorry for the late response, but my finger's were speechless. As Doneldon stated you continue to inspire us with your talent.
Jerry
Thanks, again, guys. You are too kind.
Here's a couple test shots of the homemade doghouse sitting in position, not attached. Note the added details to the tender, as well as the brakeman, wiping his brow. It's hot in there!
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0442.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0451.jpg)
The tank looks great, looking forward to seeing the whole thing. . .
Let me guess, the footboards are from Bachmann's parts offerings? If so, that's one of the most useful things Bachmann has for this and other locomotives that should have them.
Thanks. Still have quite a bit of work on the loco shell and mechanism.
Yes, the footboards and cut lever assembly were taken from a Spectrum USRA long tender, leftover from a Mountain project. The only parts left of that tender are the metal platform and some of the shell. All other parts were used in various projects. The reverse light and rerailer are brass parts. The poling pole is a sanded down toothpick. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum
The shell is nearing completion:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0452.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0453.jpg)
It will take a few days to get the headlight completed and attached:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0457.jpg)
jv
Great work Jonathan.
I've saved all your photos as I plan to use your project as a basis for kitbashing two of my eight or so 2-8-0s so as to create another class.
One question, who makes the sandbox and steam dome you used?
I could use a few of those.
BTW, I have a couple of still wrapped 2-8-0s that may contain doghouses. If I do have one or two doghouses, you're welcome to them as I don't use doghouses.
Thanks, Roger. Appreciate you thinking of me.
The domes, markers and steam whistle, were from Greenway Brass. They have a shrinking inventory of brass parts. The will keep selling them until depleted. They had one other style of dome, that looked Pacific/Mikado-like. They did have a PRR-style doghouse, but were sold out of the one that looks B&O-like.
The other detail parts are from Trackside Specialties (bought on line). I would swear they were really Cal-Scale parts that were repackaged. I could be wrong, but it seems like detail parts are getting harder to find... like all the parts were made a long time ago, by the millions.
By the way, this Spectrum/Sound 2-8-0 sat in my LHS f-o-r-e-v-e-r. I was positive someone would snap it up. Finally, I couldn't bear to see it sit there any longer... it had to come home with me. There was a previous owner, who must have mailed in the warranty card (it was missing). I can't find any sign that the loco was ever run. Even those little rubber/plastic sheets were still in place.
I've disassembled the loco to parade rest Everything looks perfect. The motor turns great. We'll see how it runs when I'm done.
Regards,
Jonathan
Roger, I may suggest you pick up a precision scale HO scale steam detail parts catalog which can be ordered from their website, they'll make the parts if they don't have them on hand and have them to you in under 4 weeks.
I'm already planning to buy parts to make a N&W Z1 from a spectrum 2-6-6-2 and a Boston and Maine 2-10-2 with a coffin FWH. Thank god they're still around very useful for me
ryeguyisme
Already have the Precision Scale catalogue. :)
Yep, one of these days, I'll have to bite the bullet and get the catalog. Good to know somebody is still making detail parts. Hope it continues...
OK, today's progress:
A working, raised, headlight... I hope. Haven't tested it, yet.
And Boiler Stays! (ta da). Now that's off the hook. Gee, I hope I wrote that right. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7683.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7682.jpg)
Jon - I can't wait to see the finished loco with the appropriate B&O casting covering the hole in the smokebox ( it must be drafty for the crew right now!)
I want to correct something I said about Selley castings. Selley made parts in O, HO and OO scale. The line was bought by Bowser many years ago and I'm sure Bowser didn't upgrade the line. I can remember getting their "O" gauge figures - they were kind of flat - not very realistic but when the line was introduced before WWII these were state of the art.
Unfortunately, my supply of B&O smokeplates is depleted. I'm hoping to restock this Sunday, at the Timonium Train Show. ;D Perhaps I'll find a decent doghouse, too. However, I think I can live with the homemade job.
All that's left is a little painting around the smokebox area and a good wheel cleaning. Then I can connect the tender and test her out. Will post a few pics when done.
Wish me luck!
Regards,
Jonathan
Won't make it to Timonium this time. We're going to ride steam at the Walkersville Southern RR near Frederick on Saturday, and Sunday is my mom's 92nd birthday. For those in the metro DC/Baltimore area, the WSRR is bringing in the Flagg Coal Co. 0-4-0T for the next 3 weekends of operations. Trips begin at the Walkersville depot (ex-PRR) for about a 3-mile jaunt to the edge of Frederick, including crossing the Monocacy River on a substantial bridge. Check their web site for more details.
OK, here are some final shots of the dome-moving project. Today, I did not have luck with sharp images. I will weather the drivers and add the smokebox plate, as soon as I get one, but she's about done. Fortunately, the loco runs well, after messing around with stiff tender connector wires (typical for a Connie). I am DC at home, and these particular locos run much, much better on DCC.
Thanks for watching!
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7684.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7686.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7687.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7688.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7689.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN7690.jpg)
Jon - I think the doghouse looks fine. With a little weathering it will look like it came from the Bachmann factory.
I had planned to go to Timonium with friends but we had to cancel. I miss walking around and looking at all the items for sale and watching the modular layouts. I hope it's not too hot, that one livestock building has a very unique "aroma" when it gets hot!
Jon, I think she looks great, too.
I also think it's pretty amazing how detail changes--in this case, primarily moving a headlight and changing domes and some piping--completely changes the overall look of the locomotive. How many people would look at this engine now and recognize it as what it once was?
Again, thanks for sharing, and congratulations on another cool project.
Great finish-up Jonathon. Will take a practiced eye to not know it wasn't a PFM brass model. Hope you can locate a dome plate at the show.
Jonathon
wondering if you have concidered a smokebox plate from the EM-1 IF they are available?
Jonathon.
One suggestion.
The two "domes" you've used are actually sandboxes. Yes, I know, most modellers call the sandbox a "dome" but technically and more correctly it's a sandbox. :)
I would suggest that you remove the grab handles from the rear "dome" as well as the sandbox filler from the top and make it look more like a steam dome rather than a sandbox with no sandpipe connections.
Other than that, bloody marvelous job and I've saved all your photos so I can blatantly copy your work at a later date.
Thanks for the kind words! It was a fun project, if not a little nerve racking to break down the boiler that far.
The EM1 smokebox plate is a little too large for a Consolidation. Plus it's a little too yellow to my eye. These plates are not rare, really. Pretty sure I'll find some soon.
Sometimes, my lack of knowledge about steamers shows. I thought the steam domes would have a cover plate and nut, just like a sandbox. Will study my prototype photos more closely. It would be easy to sand of my plastic cover and touch it up with a little paint.
Thanks, again!
Regards,
Jonathan
OK, Jonathon, here's the "finishing touch": http://www.smd.cc/
;D Great minds think alike.
While at Timonium on Sunday, I place place my preorder for C-2413.
Also restocked my supply of B&O smokebox plates. Had to rummage through many parts drawers to find some. This was a parts collecting day, vice looking for new loco projects. There was alot of tempting B&O brass. Somehow, I was able to fight the urge and spare my wallet. ;)
Will spend a couple of days completing this loco. Have already removed the handgrabs on the steam dome. Needs a little touchup.
Regards,
Jonathan
Mission Complete:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0499.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0490.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0493.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0477.jpg)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN0487.jpg)
Regards,
Jonathan
WOW! Great job Jonathan!
Yep, top notch work, Jon. ;) Can't wait for your next inspiration to become reality.
Gidday Jon
Very fine job!! Well done.
Cookie
Quote from: jonathan on June 26, 2012, 05:15:39 AM
Mission Complete:
Jonathan-
Not merely complete, or even accomplished. More like mission superlative. You
continue to knock me out with your skills, attention to detail and precision.
-- D
I can't add any more; great work as always. . .
Thank you, very much, friends. You are very kind.
Everything I learned was from the great contributors to this forum. It helps that the folks at Bachmann provide such nice locomotives to work with.
Regards,
Jonathan