because of the size of the layout. I been trying to come up with an idea to make a rail way crossing. I attached a image showing where it needs to go. The old Tyco track I was using made some changes when I changed over to Bachmann track. I was thinking about a bridge. How ever I would for it to reach out on both sides too far taking up too much room. and I was hoping some one here would have some ideas.
Joe
http://www.mediafire.com/i/?kmy03e1coeedd33
joe-
It's going to be difficult to make your crossing look good with the rerailers right there. It would probably work OK if they were both right on the point where the road crosses but that's obviously not possible with the road where it is. It would be somewhat better if you could move the road and one rerailer so everything lines up. Then you can build up the area with dry material (wood or foam) and make it look like a timber crossing. If you remove the rerailers you can make either a timber crossing or build it all up with plaster or wood putty (my choice) and paint it to resemble a paved crossing, either concrete or asphalt.
-- D
Thanks Don, How ever the rerailers can be moved to another location on the track. How ever the track it self can't be moves because the track is all connected together using switches so I won't be able to line it up right. The room I'm using is not that big. I only have a 6' 1/2" x 4' layout. so lining them up I won't be able to do.
I can use foam to build up around the track. The problem is that how would I build it up in side the track. I didn't want to have to buy some thing that I would have to mix up. Sense I never use that before. and I didn't want to screw the track up. If I use the rerailers. I won't have to build them up in side the track. I mite have to send you a photo of the complete layout so you can get a better idea on what's going on.
Joe
bj,
You can put a thin piece of styrene on the inside rails and use wood putty as D stated or I use modeling putty. Never used wood putty but I would assume they will both give the same effect. After the putty dries remove the styrene strips and you will have enough room for the wheel flanges to go thru. On the outside rail you can putty to the rail where I use an exacto knife to score a grove right next to the rail. Then paint to whatever you desire.
Jerry
Just a Quick tip about making the crossings, I use styrene as well for keeping wheel groove which works great, the TIP is to rub a piece of candle on the inside of the styrene, the wax helps keep glues and putty's from sticking to it when you pull it out.
NM-Jeff
Sorry I haven't been able to get back with every one. This is what I'm going to do. I can add a 3" pc of track to the in side track. This should put the rerailer for the in side track to match up with the old road I added using the old track. Then I have to build up some how using foam. I'm not sure how to do this in foam sense it's the only thing I have available to use. The problem is getting it to look like a road. I didn't want to have to spend more money for a mix of some kind to add to it to get it to look right. I have to use what I have.
Joe
Quote from: bigjoe11a on July 14, 2012, 06:33:15 PM
I'm not sure how to do this in foam sense it's the only thing I have available to use. The problem is getting it to look like a road. I didn't want to have to spend more money for a mix of some kind to add to it to get it to look right. I have to use what I have.
joe-
By foam we mean solid material (styrofoam or foam insulation board), not the liquid expanding foam in cans. Use the foam to build up to just short of your railhead. Then paint it to look like concrete. Or, if you have styrofoam (open cell) material or you want a wooden crossing, build it up to about the bottom of the web of your rail and then either apply spackle for concrete or model lumber (bass wood is far superior to balsa) up to almost your rail head. Paint the spackle or use liquid shoe polish to represent creosote for a wooden crossing. Black shoe polish will look like a fresh installation; brown will look like it's been there for a while.
-- D
Cool. Thanks Don.
Quote from: Jerrys HO on July 10, 2012, 06:57:23 PM
bj,
You can put a thin piece of styrene on the inside rails and use wood putty as D stated or I use modeling putty. Never used wood putty but I would assume they will both give the same effect. After the putty dries remove the styrene strips and you will have enough room for the wheel flanges to go thru. On the outside rail you can putty to the rail where I use an exacto knife to score a grove right next to the rail. Then paint to whatever you desire.
Jerry
Hi! Jerry,
Can you give me an idea on what kind of modeling putty you use. Like a Brand name and so on. I was looking on ebay and there are so many kinds and types I don't know what to buy.
Joe
joe
I use Squadron Product's white putty. You can tint it with a little black or a lot to get to the color of road you wish.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WHITE-PUTTY-Squadron-Products-MMD-Tube-9060-NEW-/400030676298#ht_1425wt_909
Jerry
Quote from: Jerrys HO on August 06, 2012, 06:29:10 PM
joe
I use Squadron Product's white putty. You can tint it with a little black or a lot to get to the color of road you wish.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WHITE-PUTTY-Squadron-Products-MMD-Tube-9060-NEW-/400030676298#ht_1425wt_909
Jerry
Thanks Jerry. I just ordered 2 tubes.
joe-
Plain old automotive Bondo products are excelent for road and other built
up surfaces, too, and much cheaper than squadron putty.
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on August 06, 2012, 08:01:43 PM
joe-
Plain old automotive Bondo products are excelent for road and other built
up surfaces, too, and much cheaper than squadron putty.
-- D
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.
Quote from: bigjoe11a on August 06, 2012, 07:53:38 PM
Quote from: Jerrys HO on August 06, 2012, 06:29:10 PM
joe
I use Squadron Product's white putty. You can tint it with a little black or a lot to get to the color of road you wish.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/WHITE-PUTTY-Squadron-Products-MMD-Tube-9060-NEW-/400030676298#ht_1425wt_909
Jerry
Thanks Jerry. I just ordered 2 tubes.
Hi! Jerry, Now I have a bigger problem. I just got the putty today. Yes I know it was running real late. How ever I applied the 1st coat to my Installation Board and it melted the Foam. Now I have 2 holes in my Installation Foam. Any ideas.
Joe
bj-
That's no good! Always check to make sure that non-model railroad products are plastic safe, whether glues, paints, lubricants or fillers. I'm sorry that those of us who steered you to using a filler material didn't mention that. But I'd have thought the Squadron putty would be okay.
You can use spackle to fill the hole or just cover it with a piece of plaster cloth over a crumpled newspaper. Two layers of plaster cloth are a lot stronger than one. Put your second piece down at a 45o angle to the first.
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on August 13, 2012, 04:09:21 PM
bj-
That's no good! Always check to make sure that non-model railroad products are plastic safe, whether glues, paints, lubricants or fillers. I'm sorry that those of us who steered you to using a filler material didn't mention that. But I'd have thought the Squadron putty would be okay.
You can use spackle to fill the hole or just cover it with a piece of plaster cloth over a crumpled newspaper. Two layers of plaster cloth are a lot stronger than one. Put your second piece down at a 45o angle to the first.
Thanks Don, My friend was telling me about how to use sand and glue. and I wanted to see what you thought of that. I could use it to fill in the holes and build up on it. All so what do you think about me using dry wall putty. Would that work.
Joe
Joe,
I use it on my foam board with no problems. What kind of foam are you using?
DON
QuoteI'm sorry that those of us who steered you to using a filler material didn't mention that.
OP asked, I responded as did other's. By the way bondo cracks and is quite heavy.
Jerry
Joe,
I just relooked at your photo and it looks like you are using styrofoam. If that is what you are using be careful as a lot of materials will dissolve that stuff. Sorry I did not see that before. I use the pink foamboard it's real durable and easier and not as messy to cut and shape.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerrys HO on August 13, 2012, 06:03:37 PM
Joe,
I just relooked at your photo and it looks like you are using styrofoam. If that is what you are using be careful as a lot of materials will dissolve that stuff. Sorry I did not see that before. I use the pink foamboard it's real durable and easier and not as messy to cut and shape.
Jerry
Thanks Jerry. The video I saw in making a train layout said to use installation foam. So I guess it's not that great to use. Yes that's what it is, It's Styrofoam.
You said some thing about pink Foamboard. Is this the same thing or is there another name for it. I only got what I could a ford. Next time I go to Home Depot. I will check for pink foamboard .
Thanks again Jerry.
That is where I get it from.(Home Depot)
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Insulation-Rigid-Insulation/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbaxx/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&langId=-1&storeId=10051&searchNav=true
I use the 3/4 and 1/2 inch. That is all that is available down in Louisiana. I have seen some up to 2" thick but from what I understand is available in more northern states.
My you tube search showed a lot of this material being used. When I modeled O gauge I used homesote. From what I heard it is not good to use in high humidity in HO scale so I stayed away. I had a lot leftover from my other layout no in the garbage.
You should be ok with what you have especially if you are too far along with your scenery. If you are using EZ track don't hotglue on styro as it will melt right through.
Jerry
Quote from: Jerrys HO on August 13, 2012, 06:42:39 PM
That is where I get it from.(Home Depot)
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Insulation-Rigid-Insulation/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbaxx/h_d2/Navigation?catalogId=10053&Nu=P_PARENT_ID&langId=-1&storeId=10051&searchNav=true
I use the 3/4 and 1/2 inch. That is all that is available down in Louisiana. I have seen some up to 2" thick but from what I understand is available in more northern states.
My you tube search showed a lot of this material being used. When I modeled O gauge I used homesote. From what I heard it is not good to use in high humidity in HO scale so I stayed away. I had a lot leftover from my other layout no in the garbage.
You should be ok with what you have especially if you are too far along with your scenery. If you are using EZ track don't hotglue on styro as it will melt right through.
Jerry
Cool, Thanks Jerry
bj-
Actually, I think dry wall mud is better than spackle but most folks don't have it on hand
so I generally just mention spackle. It's lighter than most spackle and dries faster. It's
also cheaper.
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on August 13, 2012, 11:32:24 PM
bj-
Actually, I think dry wall mud is better than spackle but most folks don't have it on hand
so I generally just mention spackle. It's lighter than most spackle and dries faster. It's
also cheaper.
-- D
-- D
Thanks Don. This mite work
Joe
I wanted to post an image to show you guys what I did and it doesn't look to bad. I have some cleaning to do and some fixing up. It doesn't look all that bad.
http://www.mediafire.com/view/?j8242yx6qxel8ba (http://www.mediafire.com/view/?j8242yx6qxel8ba)
What I wanted to ask. How can I put some rail road signals in. how would I get them to come on when I train goes by and how would I get them to shut off.
Again Guys thanks a lot for your help.
Joe
bj-
Looks good to me. Nice work.
As for the signals, well, it's hard to answer without knowing what era you're modeling and what style signals you prefer. Here's a link to one signal on ebay which can be a door to the other signals. New Jersey International, Model Power, MTH, Life Like and Tomar all make operating signals. You can trigger them with switches (not convenient or realistic) or occupancy sensors in your track. This can be done digitally if all of your rolling stock has a resistor across one axle of a truck or sliding shoes. That's usually not the case so there are light sensitive sensors which yoyu hide in your roadbed. These can detect when ambient light is blocked by a train overhead or use IR to sense a train.
You can browse for signals at ebay (large selection). You might also do an advanced search at Walthers. Here's that link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HO-PAIR-TRANSITION-GRADE-CROSSING-SIGNALS-LEDs-BELL-/330779692502?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item4d04018dd6
-- D
Thanks Doneldon, but WOW. I didn't think they would cost that much. and I have to get a controller too. All together I'm looking at $90.00. Doesn't any one think that's way to high. There has to be a cheaper way to do this. any ideas.
bj-
I'm kind of knocked out by the cost of signals, too. One could easily drop a thousand bucks putting signals all over a modest size layout. And it's more if the signals are integrated into the control system for the layout. A lot more.
I can think of only two ways to save money on signals. One is to limit functioning signals to points of interest in the foreground of the layout, with non-electric signals elsewhere. Or put them in little by little as cash becomes available. That doesn't actually save any more money but it does spread out the pain. The second way would be to scratch build your signals. This doesn't need to be very hard if you use a standard design, whether prototypical or your own design. The physical parts can be easily fabricated from brass or styrene and the lights can be LEDs. You might be surprised how quick and easy this is if you do the signals on a production line basis.
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on August 17, 2012, 11:42:02 PM
bj-
I'm kind of knocked out by the cost of signals, too. One could easily drop a thousand bucks putting signals all over a modest size layout. And it's more if the signals are integrated into the control system for the layout. A lot more.
I can think of only two ways to save money on signals. One is to limit functioning signals to points of interest in the foreground of the layout, with non-electric signals elsewhere. Or put them in little by little as cash becomes available. That doesn't actually save any more money but it does spread out the pain. The second way would be to scratch build your signals. This doesn't need to be very hard if you use a standard design, whether prototypical or your own design. The physical parts can be easily fabricated from brass or styrene and the lights can be LEDs. You might be surprised how quick and easy this is if you do the signals on a production line basis.
-- D
Ok, Thanks Don, I mite not have that kind of money for a while. I mite come up with an another idea. Or I just mite have to spend the money. Other then the signals and the controller. Is there any thing else I will need to make this work.
Quote from: bigjoe11a on August 18, 2012, 12:04:53 AM
Other then the signals and the controller. Is there any thing else I will need to make this work.
Joe-
Yes. You'll need a power supply, of course. A surplus wall wart should suffice but just what output you'll need will be determined by your control system. Your power needs should be minimal if your signals aren't integrated into actual train control, especially so if you use LEDs. And I would definitely go with LEDs. Changing conventional bulbs inside of tiny light housings sounds like a good way to go crazy or blind or both. Plus, incandescent bulbs are likely to damage your signals if they are plastic. Painted brass should stand up to the heat but you must be very careful to make sure you don't have any bare wires inside. Or, use track power as your source, since these systems generally draw very little current, but you'll need to use resistors to lower the voltage or your signals will be extremely bright, for an extremely short time.
Then you'll need sensors to tell your controls when trains are occupying a given section of track. Those aren't a major outlay but they are a necessary part of the signal controls.
By the way, a good way to phase in signals is to start with things like crossing signals. They aren't difficult to install and they give a pretty good animation bang for your buck. Semaphores and other train control signals, even if not actually part of your train control system (that is, they're there to look good, not to run trains) are somewhat pricier and more difficult to install.
I haven't looked at Talking Electronics --- http://talkingelectronics.com/ --- lately, but you might want to see what they offer for crossing and train control signals. Check under "Electronics for Model Railroads" in the index on the left side of the home page. He has great ideas and plans for circuits. In many cases, he even has kits to make things like signal controllers. His prices are excellent and his service is outstanding. I've generally had my merchandise within a week even though he's in Australia. And, yes, his stuff is suitable for North American service.
Good luck.
Doneldon
Quote from: Doneldon on August 18, 2012, 01:38:18 PM
Quote from: bigjoe11a on August 18, 2012, 12:04:53 AM
Other then the signals and the controller. Is there any thing else I will need to make this work.
Joe-
Yes. You'll need a power supply, of course. A surplus wall wart should suffice but just what output you'll need will be determined by your control system. Your power needs should be minimal if your signals aren't integrated into actual train control, especially so if you use LEDs. And I would definitely go with LEDs. Changing conventional bulbs inside of tiny light housings sounds like a good way to go crazy or blind or both. Plus, incandescent bulbs are likely to damage your signals if they are plastic. Painted brass should stand up to the heat but you must be very careful to make sure you don't have any bare wires inside. Or, use track power as your source, since these systems generally draw very little current, but you'll need to use resistors to lower the voltage or your signals will be extremely bright, for an extremely short time.
Then you'll need sensors to tell your controls when trains are occupying a given section of track. Those aren't a major outlay but they are a necessary part of the signal controls.
By the way, a good way to phase in signals is to start with things like crossing signals. They aren't difficult to install and they give a pretty good animation bang for your buck. Semaphores and other train control signals, even if not actually part of your train control system (that is, they're there to look good, not to run trains) are somewhat pricier and more difficult to install.
I haven't looked at Talking Electronics --- http://talkingelectronics.com/ --- lately, but you might want to see what they offer for crossing and train control signals. Check under "Electronics for Model Railroads" in the index on the left side of the home page. He has great ideas and plans for circuits. In many cases, he even has kits to make things like signal controllers. His prices are excellent and his service is outstanding. I've generally had my merchandise within a week even though he's in Australia. And, yes, his stuff is suitable for North American service.
Good luck.
Doneldon
Don, Thanks again, That web site I guess doesn't carry them any more. The link on the left is missing. That's what I want to try and find. Is a kit. If you come up with some more ideas. Please let me know
Joe
a much cheaper way to do this would be to buy some cheap plastic crossing signals, drill out the lights for led's and wire them to a flasher circuit.
for detection and flasher circuits try circuitron: http://www.circuitron.com
Quote from: jward on August 18, 2012, 04:27:25 PM
a much cheaper way to do this would be to buy some cheap plastic crossing signals, drill out the lights for led's and wire them to a flasher circuit.
for detection and flasher circuits try circuitron: http://www.circuitron.com
I was hoping for a kit of some kind that has every thing I need. I really didn't want to start tacking things together sense I have a long way to go just putting the layout together.
Joe-
You have to click on the place where it tells you to go to the interactive home page. Here's the address:
http://www.talkingelectronics.com/te_interactive_index.html
Electronics for model trains is about halfway down the index, under M, not E.
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on August 19, 2012, 03:17:44 AM
Joe-
You have to click on the place where it tells you to go to the interactive home page. Here's the address:
http://www.talkingelectronics.com/te_interactive_index.html
Electronics for model trains is about halfway down the index, under M, not E.
-- D
This guy needs to update his web site so it's easy for us to find things. Sorry, All I see are links for books and PDF files for "how to" books and so on. I'm looking on the left window and I don't see any thing at all. I do see links for books on model trains. I don't see any thing "For Sale". any chance you can just send me the link for it.
Joe