Hello All,
Got a problem and would appreciate some suggestions. I am relegated to the humble 4x8 sheet of plywood for my HO layout. I made a simple frame for rigidity, and it turned out well. Only problem is - plywood, as some other building materials, tends to gas off large amounts of formaldehyde, to which I am sensitive. Have had to remove and let air out a couple times already. Even tried sealing top and bottom with polyurethane and letting that air off. Are there any board materials or alternate suggestions that would yield a 4x8 equivalent layout? ???
I'd be grateful for any ideas. :) Thanks.
mlt1
In Canada, we can purchase urea formaldehyde free plywood. I would think a similar product would be available in the US.
http://www.panelsource.net/purekor/purekor.html (http://www.panelsource.net/purekor/purekor.html)
Sid
I suggest 2" thick extruded foam, or other dimensional foam sheets glued and stacked to amount to 2â€. Dow Styrofoam would be my choice. Owens Corning Foamular would be my alternative. When placed upon a rigid frame with adequate support, either will make a fine alternative to plywood. Paint it first to help deaden sound.
Incidentally, your "frame" would be considered the bench work and your "layout board" would be considered the sub roadbed.
If you want to keep the sheet of plywood you already have,
how about wrapping the whole thing in a thick sheet of plastic?
plastic sheets are cheap at "home center" type stores..paint dropcloths and such..lay the plastic smoothy across the top, then wrap it around the bottom and staple or nail it in place..then get homosote or styrofoam or something for the main surface of the railroad..
or..probably better but more expensive, just get a different piece of wood for the deck! thats what I would do..that gets rid of the problem once and for all..
probably best in the long run.
Scot
How about old-time open grid benchwork. Has the advantage of not being a solid, flat surface.
Hi Glenn,
What do you mean by "open grid benchwork"? I'm still quite new to railroading. What is that like and how is it constructed?
Thanks.
mlt1
This is something where one really needs a picture. But imagine a table built like a football field, where each ten yard line is a cross piece. Instead of then putting a sheet of plywood on the cross pieces, the builder constructs vertical risers to support the sub-road bed and areas like a town or industry. The other areas are open until covered by scenery material.
A glance at any elementary text on model railroad benchwork will show you pictures which will clarify everything.
Gene
Here is a good picture giving a general Idea of what open grid benchwork is.
http://www.sieversbenchwork.com/images/D2.jpg
Dear MLT,
Try one of the Woodland Scenics layouts in a box. You can see how I modified a River Pass layout into an On30 layout in the Photo Gallery. They're fun, easy, light, and no gases!
Have fun!
the Bach-man
^That reminds me Mr. B, how well did the foam panels hold together after the low-temp foam glue set? I thought about making my own 2x4 modules with some foam sheets, but I thought that it would be too weak.
Dear Jake,
I was in Philly tody freshening up the layouts (sme transportation damage) and there were no signs at all of delamination. I love the foam system!
Have fun!
the Bach-man
^Thanks Mr.B! ;D
Quote from: mlt1 on August 06, 2007, 04:11:58 PM
Hi Glenn,
What do you mean by "open grid benchwork"? I'm still quite new to railroading. What is that like and how is it constructed?
Thanks.
mlt1
here are a few more good pages and pics:
http://www.awrr.com/newawrr.html
http://www.rhpl.org/scmrrc/PhilMaaske.html
http://www.layoutsbysteve.com/images/bench/benc02.jpg
http://www.narrowtracks.com/minibunch/layouts/Al_Blaser/200404015_images/2004-0417-095036.jpg
you then build the scenery inbetween the tracks..much easier to build hills and mountains his way..
there are also some good books on the topic, such as:
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Railroad-Benchwork-Second-Railroader/dp/0890242895
Scot
As a base for a layout if you are using plywood, take the first of two 4X8 pieces, cut it so that it would fit into a corner (this means putting a 90 degree angle into one end, creating the long ways coming away from the corner.
Next, take the second board, rip it 2X8, cut a 45 degree piece at one end of each board, then assemble them to form a corner layout. THis gives you some pretty good options for a working layout; and really doesn't take up much room. It could be a poiont to point with helix, etc on the 4X8, or a great car float operation, etc. All in all, a lot of flexibility in a relatively small space. What it does give you more than anything else, is the opportunity to build a really functional layout;, starting small, thus not being overwhelmed and having a chance to bot hget your feet wet, and establish a learning curve; both and also having a whale of a good time.
RIch
Cutting the board into sections and reassembling them can really save space so that not all 4 sides need an aisle for access.
Harold Minky's site has a diagram for cutting a 4x8 to fit into a corner and a layout plan to fit. Ends up around 9ft.plus in length if you remove part of the outer 'point'.
Eric UK
On open-grid benchwork:
About the most convenient configuration would be that based on a 2'X4' module. I make mine from 4" clear pine; although a lot of people use whitewood, or birch plywood. The inner framework is comprised of 22-1/2 inch long by 4 inch material. For this, use a solid type wood, rather than any plywood. Screw everything together, making sure that everything is absolutely square to the nines!! Now install any provisions for leg securements, such as pockets, braces, clamps, etc.
This having been done, two things become apparent: First, you will be compatible with other mediums like foam, etc that normally comes in two foot widths; and second, that you can work on this module anywhere-your shop, layout room, or the kitchen...
As you build that first frame, give some thought about any standardization you may want; such as pre-drilled wireways, turnout locations (if you are using a machine like a Tortoise@), you will NOT want your turnout on top of a crossmember), mortising out the hole for your DCC handheld, etc. connections, if you so choose; etc.
Now is also a good time to paint/finish the front, if you desire. There aren't too many more aggravating things than trying to paint into every corner, nook and cranny of a module that is on legs and part of the layout-and it is a good idea to at least seal the underside with shellac or some other sealer to prevent humidity from "working" the wood. Use a sprayer if you can.
If you are using the 1/2 inch ply and Homasote standard, do yourself a favour: use contact cement between the pieces. First, seal the plywood and the homasote, let dry. Next, use contact cement that is normally used on counter laminates, such as "Weldwood"@. Do yourself a favour if you go this route: Do it outside if at all possible, and don't smoke...
When you attach the top to the frame, use glue AND screws-do NOT use nails. While doing this part, do ensure that the frame does stay square-keep a framing square on hand.
Rich