Ok, so I've had my train for about a week now...and havent used it as much, and when I turn it on it will not work, so then I check everything in the manual, clean it, make sure everything is plugged in, and make sure that the wheels are on the track and the track is all carefully connected, and it still doesn't work...what should I do...? :-[
I really need help, I'm new to model railroading (you could probobly tell...) and I was just going to extange it, but what if this would happen again? Please, I need some opinions...
1. Take the train off the track.
2. Turn on the power to the track to maximum speed
3. Short out the power by placing s metal screwdriver on both terminal of the power pack for an instant. You should get a spark. If your power pack has a light, it should go on or off. (some go on with a short, some are on and go off)
4. If that worked, do the same with the track. If 3 worked and 4 didn't you have a bad connection. If neither worked, your power pack is not working.
5. If both worked, put the locomotive back on the track. Does it have a headlight? Does it light?
If it doesn't work, electricity is not getting from the wheels to the motor. The reason could vary by locomotive type and with the same type. best get a friend or dealer to look at it. It might be a 2 second fix. Have them show you what they did in case you have the same problem again.
I did this one... got AC and DC wiring backwards....
AC for accessories
DC for track..
This is basically an echo of thirdrails response, maybe it helps?
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,97.msg1255.html#msg1255
If its a steam loco check the wheels on the tender. Make sure that the shiny wheels are on the same side and that they are on the opposite side of the pick up wheels on the loco itself. It could also be that the leading or trailing wheels are short circuting the track. (If they are metal.) The same goes for any of your rolling stock. A couple of my cars do that.
(Is your engine steam or diesel?)
it is diesel, and it is messing up a lot.. :-[
what diesel is it? Is it part of a set? Are you using B-mann E-Z TRAK or some other track? Is it a B-mann power pack or a different one? Which pack is it?
A little more information might help us to help you.
the set is b-mann e-z track "EXPLORER" with a Santa Fe diesel engine...it is...aEMDF9 diesel loco with all wheel drive and headlight/Santa Fe and E-Z track
Your best bet would be to bring it to a hobby shop that does repairs and have them take a look at it. It will definatly work if you leave it with a professional. It always works for me. ;D
there arnt really any places selling "just trains" around here, i just went to a hobbie shop, and they have an ok variety....altho i dont think any of the workers know anything about model trains... :-\
I know what set it is. I know Diesel pretty well. You need to explain to me exactly what happened, and what have you done so far. When you said you cleaned it, I need to know how, and where did you clear it? What do you mean when it does not work?
Here is my way to diagnose it.
1. Get a multimeter and check if the rails have electricity. Make sure you clean the track first. Start from the rerailer and go all the way around for the full circle. Test for DC. The explorer is a modern set so there is no way you can hook it up for AC.
2. If there is no electricity, then first either it is the cab, or the adapter is the culprit. Use the multimeter to test the adapter to see if there is any output. If it does not, or insufficient, the adapter is to blame. If adapter is fine, then test the cab. Pull out your red wire slightly, and then test the red wire on its cab end. Make sure the red wire is still plug into the cab. If the output is not there, or insufficient, then it is the cab to blame. If not, now test the red wire on the track end. Pull out the red wire, and test it (the double female plug side). If it does not have output, or inefficient, your red wire is faulty, if not...
3. Plug the red wire back into the rerailer. Manipulate the double male tabs of the rerailer where you plug in the red wire. In my experience most often than not this is the problem if the track has electrical problem. Try plug the red wire from the opposite side of the rerailer input to see if this fix the problem. Again keep manipulating the two tabs. Keep your multimeter fixed to the track so you know if there is electricity.
4. At this point you should be able to figure out whether there is something wrong from the adapter all the way to the track itself.
5. Assume the track does receive electricity, then the problem is the loco.
6. Put the loco back on the track, and then press it from side to side, in a diagonal fashion. If the engine attempts to move, that means that it is a wheel gauge problem. Use your fingers gently pull the wheels out just a little bit at a time, and put the train back on. Keep doing it until all wheels are perfectly on the track. It should run, if not...
7. Turn the loco over, and press the contacts of the trucks towards the chassis. There should be four contacts. Put the loco back on the track, and gently press it against the track, see if it runs. If it runs, then the problem is the loose contact. You may want to use a tweezer or screw driver to manipulate the contact further to make it better. If it still has problems...
8. Take all the wheels off the trucks, then take the gears out of the trucks. Examine and clean them if possible. Put them back in. If it runs then that means dirt is the problem, if not...
9. Take the body off the loco. This will reveal the split-chassis. Examine the motor itself to see if the plastic wrap sits correctly so that the motor is not contacting the chassis itself, with the exception of its contacts. If the plastic wrap is ok...
10. Get yourself a couple of wires. Put one end to one rail, the other on the other rail, then have the wires contact the two opposite contacts of the motor directly. If it does run..., see 11. if it does not, see 12.
11. Gently pull apart the split-chassis, but just by a millimeter, or less. The reason why the engine does not run even though there is nothing wrong with the motor is that the split chassis was put together so closely that, somewhere they touch and create a short. So just pull them slightly apart, that should solve the problem. If it still does not run....
12. Unscrew the screws that hold the chassis, and pull apart the chassis.
Take the motor out of the chassis. Use wires to connect it directly to the track to see if it runs. If it does not, the culprit is that you have a defective motor. Call Bachmann for a replacement. If not...
13. Put the motor back in. Examine the worms and the shafts. Check whether they are connected correctly, and also see if there is dirt or too much grease inside. If those are the problems, fix them accordingly by reassemble them correctly for the former, and dissemble it and totally clean it and degrease it before putting it back. Gently greese it, before putting the entire loco together.
14. At this point all parts of the loco and the tracks have been checked. If it still does not run, return the whole thing back to Bachmann. I doubt you will reach this point if you have done the above carefully.
Good luck and keep us posted. ;D
i cleaned the tracks thouroughly with cloth and cotten swabs, same with the engines wheels, i cleaned them all at my table(were i keep the set) and it sometimes just stops when it is running, and wont start up again for a few hours, or sometime i can give it a push and it will work, though, not as good.
and when it actually does work, i have to turn the dial to at least 60 to start it, and it goes really slow even then...
Sounds like it is contact then.
Pull the wheels out of the trucks, and pull the gears out. Clean them *that* way. Pay attention not just the wheeling part of the wheels, but the axles.
Clean the now empty trucks inside.
Now put the gears back, and put the wheels back to the truck, but don't push it all the way in. Just barely enough so that the engine barely can sit on the rails. See if the engine will response. Now keep pushing a tiny bit of the wheels towards the trucks until the wheels fit perfectly on the rails.
This should solve the problems.
PS. Are the tracks connect each other perfectly?
I have no idea how to do that...I'm new...and yes the tracks are perfect, and now it takes full power just to run O.K.
It appears to me that the culprit is the locomotive. I am assuming that B-mann still has the warranty on the train set locomotives. I would send the locomotive back to Bachmann. I do not know if the F-9 is still in production, but if it is not, perhaps they will replace it with a SPECTRUM F-7, or something similar. If it is still in production, no doubt that they will send another one in replacement.
The reality is that B-mann does sell better locomotives than that particular model. If F-units are what you want, I would look for an A-B pair of SPECTRUM F-units and just break down and buy them. There is a dealer on e-Bay who sells B-mann for reasonable prices, My Favorite Spot. Try him if B-mann wants to send another F-9 in replacement. You will be much happier with the SPECTRUM F-7s. They come in ATSF.
what is the ebay dealers name/store?
It is either 'The Favorite Spot' or 'My Favorite Spot'. If you go to 'Toys and Hobbies', then 'Model RR Trains', then 'N Scale', then 'Bachmann', you will see his listings. You can also search for the dealer. It will give you similar names, so enter either one.
so im gunna have to get like a $60 replacement...not fair to me, i might switch to some other brand man...
Send the locomotive back to Bachmann. (See the instruction included with your set for the address)
They have a LIFETIME warranty on ALL their locomotives. (90 days on everything else) If the locomotivre was purchased less than a year ago (send along a copy of the receipt) there is no charge. Otherwise , IIRC, the charge is $10 for a diesel and $15 for steam. They will replace the locomotive for you. If it is an older model you will most likely get a current production one. Bachmann,s customer service is excellent; (the old LifeLike-now Walthers-a close second..)
FranzT
Remember, his first message said he was new to model railroading.
yes, yes it did, and I'm planning on getting an F7 A & B, like sugjested...for 70 bucks...but if it works...^.^"
You may want to consider this!
http://cgi.ebay.com/BACHMANN-SPECTRUM-RF-16-SHARKNOSE-N-A-B-PENNSY-81353_W0QQitemZ170143691467QQihZ007QQcategoryZ19122QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/BACHMANN-SPECTRUM-RF-16-SHARKNOSE-N-A-B-NYC-81356_W0QQitemZ170143691481QQihZ007QQcategoryZ19122QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/BACHMANN-SPECTRUM-RF-16-SHARKNOSE-N-A-B-B-O-81358_W0QQitemZ170143691485QQihZ007QQcategoryZ19122QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
thanks for the help everyone, if anyone else would like to point out some more good locos I would really appreciate it!
Well, some trains in the price range of $20-$40 that work good please!
Check out MicroMark. (http://www.micromark.com) . They have the Spectrum F7 for $45 -$40 if you let them pick the roadname.
Click on Model Railroad Items in the left column,Bachmann Trains in the category, then Bachmann N Scale, look on the bottom of the first page and the first 4 items on the second page.
And Standard Hobby Supply (http://www.standardhobby.com) has the RF-16 Sharknose of $35.Click Shop Online, select Manufacturer Bachmann, Product line N Diesels, halfway down page 2.
Personally, I would send the defective unit back to Bachmann...
HTH
Franz T
http://www.trainworld.com/2007_n_scale.htm
While trainworld has the RF16's for 25!
In all honesty, pay 60$ for an atlas loco which will last a lifetime.
http://www.trainworld.com/atlas/atlas_n_scale.htm
http://www.atlasrr.com
I would've done atlas, but I can't find anything hardly, I can't find any of their train sets, if they have any..
I don't think Atlas makes train sets. You can just use their locomotive on your Bachmann set.
Na....I really don't no how to change couplers...like I said...I'm the new guy lol
Strange...the F9 is the least problematic of all my engines. It is very reliable. You may also just go to Ebay and get yourself an F9 again.
Go the Favorite Spot e-Bay store and look at his auctions. He has the SPECTRUM Fs in ATSF as well as other roads, and you will not have to pay fifty or sixty bananas for a pair.
The Sharks are even better than the SPECTRUM Fs, except they are not available in ATSF, because ATSF never had Baldwin Sharks.
If you like steam, I would also recommend the SPECTRUM 2-8-0. This seller does not appear to have it in ATSF. If you get the 2-8-0, it does require a long break-in period, but after the break-in, it is an excellent locomotive.
The SPECTRUM 4-8-2, with a minimum of tweaking, is also pretty good, but I doubt that it is going to like the nine-and-three-quarter curves of the trainset track. The 2-8-0 will be allright on those curves.
The 2-6-6-2 will definitely be unhappy on those sharp curves.
If there are shows in your area, you can often find the SPECTRUM Fs and the 2-8-0 for a reasonable price.
B-mann has also recently issued a Standard Line Fairbanks-Morse road switcher that runs well. I do not know if it comes in ATSF. ATSF had FM roadswitchers, but I do not know if it had this model. The coupler on this one is not compatible with the Rapidos on your trainset, but if you plan to continue in this hobby, now might be the time to change everything to knuckle couplers. They look and function better and the manufacturers are starting to get away from the Rapidos. Any of the recent Atlas issues have knuckle couplers, as do the Kato, MicroTrains, Athearn and Intermountain (I may have left out one or two).
TrainWorld is a good place from which to get older items at a good price. You can not order on-line, you must find what you want in the print catalogue or on the website and call. I have had no problems with them. If I call on Tuesday or Wednesday before One P.M., the package arrives UPS in Washington the next day. TrainWorld is in New York City. Some people find their telephone manners to be a bit coarse, but I lived in New York and I do not notice it, perhaps.
Atlas and Kato sell good power as does B-mann in its SPECTRUM line. B-mann has recently made improvements to its Standard Line. Walthers also sells good power; they recently took over the Life-Like line. Life-Like split metal frame power is also good, and there is plenty of NOS out there at fire sale prices. The FAs and FM cab units are excellent and will pull every piece of rolling stock that you own up a fifty per-cent grade. Unfortunately for you, ATSF never had FAs or four axle FM cab units. It did have Eries, and LL did issue ATSF Eries, but those six axle trucks will not like your nine and three quarter curves. The large size of the Erie will also make it look rather silly on a nine and three quarter curve.
LL also sold metal frame GP-20s and GP-18s, but I do not know if ATSF ever had any of those.
LL sold some plastic frame power, some with flywheels, some without. The latter were good for their time, but are now dated. The former are good power for a good price, but again, they are PAs and E-units (passenger power). They are large and have six axle trucks; your nine and three quarter curves could be a problem. The PAs and Es did come in ATSF.
There, consider that. Also consider buying some track that has a larger radius curve, if you have the space. In addition, get away from that train set power pack as soon as you can. MRC and Kato sell some good power packs. B-mann used to sell a pretty good power pack, but I do not know if it still does.
TrainWorld has the B-mann Fs for fifty bananas the A-B pair. B-mann only sells them in pairs, so you can not buy just one unit. That works out to twenty-five dollars per unit; not bad. This is an safety net, if you will, in case you can not get what you want on e-Bay. The Model Power FP-7 is not a bad runner, but its 1970s construction methods could cause problems down the road. I understand that MP constructed it in this fashion to keep down the cost while at the same time allowing for easy DCC conversion. DCC may or may not be something in which you may or may not be interested at this point. I do not know that ATSF ever had any FP-7s. Generally, ATSF practice on four axle EMD passenger cab units was that the steam generator was in the B-units only. As you will see, TrainWorld also has Intermountain and MicroTrains F-units. They are expensive, but well worth the cost.
If F-units are what you must have, the best are the Katos, IMs and MTs. MT has FTs, only, IM has the most variety and Katos do come in ATSF, but only in one phase. IM has a variety of phases of F-units.
yes, but all of the things he is sellng on ebay are auctions...I don't particually have the best of luck with those...
If you have a difficult time with auctions, this is what I would do.
Send the F-9 back to Bachpersonn and explain the problem. Follow the instructions on the literature. See what they send you in replacement. If they send you another F-9 and it functions allright, then you are allright--for now.
If you decide to continue in this hobby, you will soon find that the Standard Line F-9 will no longer meet your needs. There is much better power out there sold by B-mann and other manufacturers. Go to a show and see what they have, or if a show is a difficult proposition, go to TrainWorld, modeltrainstuff.com (M.B. Klein) or any of the other e-Tailers that the people on this forum might recommend and buy some better power. If you see something that you like and are not sure if you should buy it, ask here. It is likely that more than one person here has the item in question and can tell you all about it.
I understand how you feel about buying the train set and having the locomotive turn out to be an underachiever. I got back into this hobby because one Christmas I received a LL N scale train set. It had an 0-6-0T locomotive in it. I took the thing out on Christmas Day and the rods fell off the locomotive before I could get it onto the track. Oddly enough, someone at LL answered the 800 number on Christmas Day and told me what to do, which I did. In replacement, I received a Mehano FA-whatever. Anyone who has been around a while will tell you that the replacement was worse that the original. Still, it did not discourage me; I was able to see the Mehano for what it was. Instead of trashing the thing, I went out and bought an Atlas/Kato GP-9. That fixed most of the problems.
If you plan to stay around, you will want to upgrade, anyhow. The SPECTRUM F-7s are an allright first step up. The sharks or SPECTRUM 2-8-0 are an even better step up.
are the spectrum SD45's good? I found some on the internet for around 70 bucks, and i want to stay with this hobbie, and i like that model of train, i also like the 8-40C's (not wide cab) are both of those any good?
P.S. you probobly already know this, but just incase, the 8-40C's and the SD45's (spectrum's) are DCC ready
To answer your question, yes, the Spectrum SD-45's are excellent. The overall quality of N scale has dramatically improved over the last 10-15 years. Even the latest Standard Line from B,mann runs very well. Trainsets have always been inexpensive (read: low end) entries into the hobby. You will find a considerable difference between your F-9 and the Spectrum F7. BTW, the SD-45 is an easy conversion to knuckle couplers when you decide to do what 80% of us do: convert to MT's for reliability and realism. ;)
I would avoid e-bay; you can find dependable service and excellent prices fro established on-line dealers. To name a few I use: Brooklyn Locomotive Works (http://www.blwnscale.com) , MB Klein (http://www.modeltrainstuff.com), Toy Train Heaven (http://www.toytrainheaven.com) and Standard Hobby Supply (http://wwwstandardhobby.com). You can also e-mail Al DeLia of Eastern Classic (ECMR1@aol.com) and ask him to put you on his N-scale mailing list. Big Al has very low prices and is a very nice guy to to business with (I should know, he got a few Grand of my money over the years ;D ;D)
Above all, don't let a bad experience with an entry level trainset discourage you from the hobby. as I said in several previous posts, I would send the bad loco back to Bachmann, they will fix it for you.
Have Fun!!
Franz T
Let me add one thing: You asked about the Dash 8's. (8-40C) They are also excellent. However, you should know that Bachmann updated these models a few years ago, the new ones are MUCH better. The old ones are also Spectrum line, but come in a hinged box inside a cardboard sleeve, The new ones come in a larger clear plastic box. Bachmann did NOT change model numbers between production runs. That is why I don't like e-bay, too many crooks out there. A reputable dealer will sell you current production or will tell you if he isn't..
Franz T
ya, i saw um on a website called "internettrains.com"
Atlas or Kato diesels are much better in my humble opinion. I know this is a Bachmann board but an Atlas will last you a lifetime.
ya, but i don't know how to change couplers...
also, what all do you need to make a dcc ready train make sounds and stuff...?
Buy a sound decoder from http://www.tonystrains.com . I think they make a plug and play one. If its plug and play insert it into the DCC socket. If not u need to hardwire it into the loco. Since your in the beginning stages, you may want to consider HO. It usually has a little better detail, More locos are made in this scale, it is easier to hand being larger, and is easier to isntall sound or DCC, or find a sound equipped locomotive.
ya, HO, but the thing is, i tried HO, and i don't have enough room for it :-\ thats why i decided to go with n scale :D but i don't see how to hotwire a train...oh well, i'll figure out if/when i get one
also, could you give me the exact location to buy a biginning decoder thing, i plan on buying a DCC ready train :)
http://www.tonystrains.com/products/img/showimage.html?Digitrax%20DN163PS|dtx|1|1|mdec_dn163ps.jpg
http://www.tonystrains.com/products/img/showimage.html?Digitrax%20DN143IP|dtx|1|1|mdec_dn143ip.jpg
so those are some good beginner ones..?
With most DCC read locos you jsut plug these in and it will be equipped.
so it's a controller, correct..? just making sure, absolutely sure.
More like a computer chip. You need to buy a system. The system sends messages through the track to the decoder which decodes the messages and tells the locomotive what to do, like turn on/off its lights or move forward or back etc.
I do not know much about the more modern prototype models about which you are asking. I prefer steam and will not operate any diseasel whose prototype is newer than a torpedo boat GP-9.
I do not use DCC, so I can not comment much about it, but it looks like someone who knows about it has entered the ring.
The Atlas and Kato power are generally good. I do not own any of the more modern prototpyes, but I can state that their first generation prototypes are pretty good. B-mann sells some good power, as well.
Be aware that many of the modern prototypes are larger, six axle units. Whiile they may go around a nine and three quarter curve, they will have problems. The frequency of the problems depends on many variables, but even under the best of conditions, larger power tends to prefer broader curves and switches. Further, larger power can look silly going around a nine and three quarter curve. If you like diesels, you might want to stick to four axle power.
If you are really pressed for space and like steam, you might want to consider nineteenth century equipment. Athearn sells some very nice 1880s locomotives in two wheel arrangements, a 2-8-0 and a 2-6-0. Atlas sells an 1870s 2-6-0, as well. B-mann sells an 1860s/1870s 4-4-0 in its Standard Line. If you will spend the time to break it in, it is not that bad a locomotive, but it does tend to wobble and bob as it goes down the track. If you take out the wobble and bob, it is actually a better performing locomotive than the Atlas 2-6-0.
Keep in mind that if you run the Atlas or B-mann, they are short wheelbase locomotives that will stall on plastic frog switches if you run them at prototypical speeds. They require metal frog switches to operate at the proper speeds; said switches require additional wiring. The Athearns are allright on plastic frog switches. The Athearns are copies of the old MDC line, so if you see those out there, they are good, too.
B-mann sells a limited line of nineteenth century rolling stock, Athearn a more extensive line. Atlas does not sell any nineteenth century rolling stock. MDC had a rather extensive line of nineteenth century rolling stock, much of it is still out there as NOS.
DCC is difficult if you go with the nineteenth century; there just ain't much space. There is a guy on the various forums who goes by the moniker 'powersteamguy' who has gotten decoders into N scale nineteenth century steam, but he is a retired dentist, so he has spent his life working in tighter places than the tender and/or cab of an N scale nineteenth century steam locomotive.
One more thing on the Athearn/MDC and B-mann nineteenth century steam: the motors are in the tender and are connected to the locomotive by a drive shaft. Some consider that unsightyly, but it does not bother me. In HO's earlier days, much of the smaller power also had the motor in the tender and a drive shaft to the locomotive. IHC took that one step further in HO when it sold an 1880s 2-8-0 that had the entire mechanism in a tender packed with weight that simply pushed around the locomotive. The thing had better pulling power than did the prototype.
couldn't i just get a b-mann dcc ready engine and a b-mann EZ DCC system controller?
Quote from: rains train on September 01, 2007, 01:28:08 PM
couldn't i just get a b-mann dcc ready engine and a b-mann EZ DCC system controller?
You can get a Bachmann controller and a Bachmann DCC ready engine, but you will also need the proper decoder for the engine. One of the most popular (and inexpensive) decoders for n scale engines is the Digitrax DZ123. It is also one of the smallest commonly available decoders, however you will need someone with good soldering skills to install it in your engine. To my knowledge, Bachmann does not sell an N scale engine that is "plug & play", meaning that you just plug the decoder into a circuit board on the engine.
Mike
The USRA heavy mountain that B-personn has announced is supposed to have a 'smart' decoder that will read if it is being fed DC or code. I suspect that a 4-8-2 would have trouble with his nine and three quarter curves.
Somone posted that these smart decoders are pretty good, but it does take an extra bit of throttle to get the locomotive going on DC and you must scale it back as the decoder heats. No big deal, most of my Kato locomotives work that way anyhow.
The easiest DCC conversion used to be the E-R sharks. They had an excellent design. If you wanted to convert them, you uscrewed two screws, took out the circuit board, put in an identical decoder, programmed it and ran your locomotives. Unfortunately, no one manufactures that decoder anymore. Boohoo for you DCC boys who like first generation power.
B-mann may have announced a diseasel that is supposed to emerge about the same time that the 4-8-2 is, but I can not be sure. I guess that if one is going to appear, it must be a modern prototpye, therefore I would not be interested, anyhow.
Send it back to bachmann they have a life time warranty.If it's that new I myself wouldn't try all that stuff although the guys are trying to help you out.
ugh...i have no idea how to install a decoder...i just want an engine with DCC that i don't have to mess with, cuz i'll end up breaking it..
Atlas sells locomotives with decoders already installed....
sweet, when i last tinkered with my broken loco, i think i figured out how to change the couplers, so i'll just buy an atlass, will a b-mann EZ DCC system controller work with it then?
It will but if you plan to continue in the hobby, don't wase money on an ez command. I know this is a Bachmann board but an EZ command can only do so much, and can only program loco numbers. Buy a digitraxx or lenz sys instead.
Quote from: Guilford Guy on September 02, 2007, 08:08:47 PM
It will but if you plan to continue in the hobby, don't wase money on an ez command. I know this is a Bachmann board but an EZ command can only do so much, and can only program loco numbers. Buy a digitraxx or lenz sys instead.
Don't forget NCE! ;D
Mike
tell me where i can get 1 please
Quote from: rains train on September 02, 2007, 09:51:09 PM
tell me where i can get 1 please
You didn't specify what you want one of, so here is a link to Tony's Trains: http://www.tonystrains.com/index.html (http://www.tonystrains.com/index.html)
Tony's sells all the major brands of DCC, and has some pretty decent comparisons and reviews. There is also a page, "DCC For Beginners", that will give you a wealth of basic information about DCC.
Tony's is just one of the major players in the DCC market, so when you get ready to buy brand X, there are plenty of people here that can recommend their favorite dealer.
Have Fun!
Mike
Is the Digitrax Zephyr good if I buy a DCC ready Atlas engine with a decoder already installed?
And I plan on getting this engine, because it has a decoder already installed.
"Atlas N Scale ALCO C-630 Union Pacific #2904 w Dual Mode Decoder"
That engine good..?
The Atlas locomotive is an excellent choice.. Very good runner. I don't do DCC, (the thought of having to fit decoders into 100+ locomotives is deterring me at this time--maybe when I retire ;)), but from what I have read, Digitrax is a good system. All DCC system listed as being NMRA compatible will work with each other; i.e a Lenz decoder will work with a Digitrax system, the only differences are the features of the decoders and the systems (lights, sound,etc.). Some on-line research on the various manufacturer's websites may help you decide what you want..
Thanks, anyone know if that Digitrax thing will work, and if the loco I want has sound?
Quote from: rains train on September 03, 2007, 04:46:22 PM
Thanks, anyone know if that Digitrax thing will work, and if the loco I want has sound?
Yes and no.
The Digitrax Zephyr is a solid entry level system than can be expanded somewhat in the future.
Before you make a final decision on which system to buy, I'd suggest that you download a copy of each system's user manual. See what is entailed in programming variables (CV's), making and breaking consists, etc. Some systems are easier to learn than others.
The Atlas Alco doesn't have sound. There are very few n-scale locos with factory installed sound decoders; the Athearn Challenger and the PCM E-8(?) are two that come to mind.
Mike
Where can I find those?
I need a not too expensive DCC and sound diesel engine in the 100$-200$ range or 100$-150$
http://precisioncraftmodels.com/PCM-R636-B&O-E7A-72,-powered,-Sound,-DC-DCC,--N-Scale-i32164-c3169.html
How about that?
If you could get a picture that would be really nice ^.^
(http://www.gadgettom.com/Merchant2/graphics/Engines/PCM635.JPG)
Wow! Thanks!
Now I just need 300$ for the engine and Dizitrax controller, and I'm set, exept I don't have 300 bucks lol, and probobly won't for awhile! :-\
engin is only 140, I dont know how much a zephyr is.
zephyr is arouns 200... :-\ and I'm kinda poor currently, so I won't have them for awhile, I might havethe engine soon though..
Hi,
Are you guys gone to write a book about this novel or what? Rains train, if you want to know about model trains start by buying books and read them, is the only way to go!
Well, I'm looking, but so far I've found 0 books by bachmann, still looking though, found a new hobbie shop 3 miles from here, I'ma go take a look there sometime soon. ;D
BTW, can I use this DCC w/sound decoder already installed on the track I got with my set, and the extra track I bought(I bought a switch, and 2 or 3 6 packs of 5' straight track)
You might be able to get some advice from the guys at the hobby store about a good starter book they might have, does not have to be Bachmann so much as it should be N scale.
The track does not really care if you use DC or DCC. As the layout becomes more complex (beyond just an oval etc.) the wiring can get more complex. There should be some good DCC books available at the hobby store for you to study before you get too far.
Keep at it,
Charles
Ya, I have a long oval with a siding, and I should be able to get some good advise from K10's Model Trains, the hobby store :D
Also, good, so I won't have to buy different track, I can just keep the set and try to get the engine fixed, and get a new engine and Zephyr Dizitrax controller :)
And the last thing, I might also get a Big Boy, or Challenger, some kind of 4-6-6-4, depending on how much i get off of eBay for selling some stuff. ;D
I mean 4-8-8-4
Ya, I plan on getting a 4-8-8-4 Big Boy by Athearn DCC and sound ready for 300 bucks, what type of curve do you need for a 4-8-8-4..?
I would say at least 19". Although my Proto 2-8-8-2 WILL run on 9.75", as will my Spectrum 2-6-6-2's, they don't really look too good doing it... ;D
Alrighty, I'll look up some 19' and hopefully have enough room for what I want to do(which isnt much, only have a very small space, around...5" by 4" maybe
I looked over some sugjestions to how to fix the engine again, and 1 of them worked some! :o ;D :D I pulled the wheels apart a little and it worked! Befor that it owuld barely move, now it moves, not well, but good enough for me untill I get a new one ^.^
got a DCC ready atlas SD-24 today for 80 buck at the train store, running it in, so far it looks great! The people that looked at my engine at the train store said the engine was almost fried! :o :( It was because of dog hair!!!! ................my dog pretty much lives in my room, so whenever im not useing my new engine, thats running well on b-mann track so far, I'm going to put it back in the box so no dog hair gets into it ;)
Quote from: rains train on September 13, 2007, 10:31:30 PM
got a DCC ready atlas SD-24 today for 80 buck at the train store, running it in, so far it looks great! The people that looked at my engine at the train store said the engine was almost fried! :o :( It was because of dog hair!!!! ................my dog pretty much lives in my room, so whenever im not useing my new engine, thats running well on b-mann track so far, I'm going to put it back in the box so no dog hair gets into it ;)
The dog hair is most likely getting into the engine while it is running, not when it is just sitting. That dog hair is going everywhere and the engine will pick it up while it goes down the track. Storing the engine in its box is a good idea though...
Mike
Quote from: rains train on September 13, 2007, 10:31:30 PM
got a DCC ready atlas SD-24 today for 80 buck at the train store, running it in, so far it looks great! The people that looked at my engine at the train store said the engine was almost fried! :o :( It was because of dog hair!!!! ................my dog pretty much lives in my room, so whenever im not useing my new engine, thats running well on b-mann track so far, I'm going to put it back in the box so no dog hair gets into it ;)
I have similar problems with cat hair. What I do is every other weeks I will totally dissemble the entire loco engine to clean it. Hair can gets inside the motor.
Another way is to have a pair of tweezers around. Every time you finish running it you use your tweezers to pull all the hair out. Also, pull all the wheels out from the truck, as the hair tends to tangle into the axles of the wheels. If you do this often enough, you do not need to do a total engine overhaul once a fortnight, but maybe once a couple of months.
Thanks! ;)