Hey. I was searching around the Bowser website and found a nice (looking) USRA Light Pacific (http://www.bowser-trains.com/holocos/usra_light_pacific/usra_light_pacific.htm) And I was wondering, how well do Bowser locomotives pull? I know I don't have to worry about it weighing too little, as it is made of Zinc and has a listed weight of almost 2 pounds. (:o) And also, how long am I looking at to build this? It doesn't matter to me if it'll take an hour, a day, a week, or a month! I like projects & seeing things come together. And also, is it possible to put in a motor other than a Bowser DC-71? Preferably a can motor with a flywheel? (Well unless the DC-71's run smoothly...) Should I worry about short problems with Kadee couplers since the loco, tender, & couplers are metal? And lastly, what glue would you recommend for attaching the super detail parts? And what kind of applicator? I currently have a CMR polyethylene bottle with blunt tip applicator. (See the bottom of this (http://www.cmrtrain.com/kits.html) page)
EDIT: At the end of the assembly manual, it says "After tender and loco are
assembled it is time to track
test. Track test thoroughly.
Do not paint. Why shouldn't I paint the engine?
Jake,
Bowser makes really nice locomotive kits. When properly and carefully assembled they run as smooth as any brass or plastic engine made and will out-pull anything of similar size. Like the catalog said.......they're heavy!
The DC-71 motor is strong, smooth and DCC compatable. Adding a flywheel is always a good idea. There's a company that makes motor/flywheel conversions for the Bowsers. I believe it's called Alliance.
There is not a shorting problem with KD couplers mounted in the KD boxes as they are plastic.
The reference to not painting is meant to not do it prior to getting the loco assembled and running smoothly. The process of getting the engine running smoothly can be a long and repetative process of assembly/disassembly to get things aligned and working right. If it's painted prior to making your adjustments you will scratch up your paint job.
I gather from your questions that you aren't very experienced with loco kits. The Bowser kits aren't really too difficult but for the first-time builder pose a lot of situations that you have not experienced before. They can be built by a newbie if you follow the directions carefully and don't rush the steps. Read the instructions several times prior to getting out your tools and during the assembly process. Become familiar with the parts and what each step entails prior to trying to assemble anything.
I've used instant glues of many different companies as well as 5 minute epoxy to attach parts to the boiler. Attaching brass to brass is always best with solder which makes the strongest connection.
If they offer the valve gear as a built-up option pay the extra money and buy it that way. Most beginners will have the hardest time getting the rivets set on the valve gear and this will cause a lot of operating problems and friction later.
Good luck!
Roger
Another thing I found difficult with the valve gear is the fact that the diagram is for one side of the locomotive. The other set is a mirror image and I've found myself trying to assemble the second set the same as the first. I agree that paying extra for assembled valve gear is a smart idea.
Gene
Bowser products are top quality and the company is glad to help if you have a problem.
I've built about a dozen over the years and they are good runners. I did find that the pulling capacity was limited by the weight of the boiler and tender.
There is a can motor conversion available but I believe the DC-71 is now isolated from the frame.
As for painting, I used a chemical blackener on the frames because I never was able to keep paint on the frames of engines I assembled.
I found valve gear assembly to be a challenge but I suppose the extra money is worth it if you've never done an assembly before. I often attached parts to the boiler with epoxy but CA glue would also work.
Dear Jake,
I bought a USRA Light Mikado kit last year and will start it this Fall. It is supposed to take about 3 weeks, give or take a few, to complete. The Bowser web site used to list a one dollar upgrade to isolate the DC-71 motor. Another option posted here last year is to get a Helix Humper, which I intend to do, since I want to install a decoder.
http://www.alliancelink.com/alp/photos.htm
#151 Bowser K11 4-6-2/USRA Light Pacific 4-6-2 $39.95 (View #151 Instruction Sheet)
Thanks, Roger for the mention of Alliance. (FYI, Alliance is also the name of the former Hercules Powder Co, spun off by DuPont, which makes propellant powders, e.g. Bullseye, Herco, 2400, Blue Dot, Green Dot, Unique, etc. for the US cartridge reloading industry).
Best Wishes,
Jack
The dc71 motor upgrade involves the fiber brush holder plate. The original is half brass and the replacement is all fiber thus insulating the brushes from the motor which is screwed to the frame
Bowser also makes remotoring kits for the Bachmann Northerns and a few other models. All work very well and add to the pulling power of the locomotives.
On the Pacific, buy the superdetailing kit at the same time as the kit. This will greatly enhance the appearence over the cast zamac pieces normally supplied. I have a USRA 2-10-2 and while the detailing isn't as good as the Bachmann, it will easily outpull it. I have one with a Helix Humper conversion and it is smooth.
^The Pacific is sold as a "Deluxe" kit. It comes with the Superdetailing kit.
The "Do not paint" refers to running in the engine. Once you get it to run properly,all the binds out of the rods, crossheads and valve gear, you can then disassemble and paint to your heart's content.
As a mentioned in a previous post the Bowser frams can be a project. on one engine, a PRR mike, I primed and painted the frame, retainer plate and cylinders. I even baked the Floquil primer. Even with priming I found that the Floquil paint I used would chip. That is when I went to "Blacken It."
I don't know if this chemical blackener is still on the market. I'm not sure that it was designed for zamac castings. I know of a guy who used gun bluing on a brass engine frame - it turned out okay but I didn't like the final color.
The successor to DuPont Powders is Alliant, not Alliance.
For a different take, I say if you posess mechanical knowledge and dexterity, I do not feel it is worthwhile to pay to have the linkages assembled.
I believe the Bowser locomotives are rock solid locomotives, really good mechanisms, but define quality. Are we talking Chevrolet or Ferrari?
I feel the Bowser locos are decent deals with the superdetail kits, but you have relaced the "cheap" Oriental labor with you.
If they have the prototype you want, I say go for it as you will likely not get a better prototypical loco for the money. As food for kitbash fodder, the kit arrangement may be an advantage, too.
I like them quite a bit in general, and have built 3 over the years, but I don't need any of those Pennsy fireboxes or generic offerings since N&W and VGN have been pretty well provided for in recent years, except for a few models, and Bowser has not filled any of those gaps either.
www.bowser-trains.com
What does that have to do with anything?
Since the conversation was about Bowser, the Bowser web site seems rather relevant.
Gene
While I do agree, Gene, I do have a link to the site in my original post. ;)
Jake,
Your link is to the USRA light Pacific kit, not to Bowser as a whole. I agree one can get to the site from that page, but the last post was for the entire site, which is quite informative, especially for those looking for superdetailing parts.
Gene
Dear Friends,
Would agree to get super detailing kits for each loco. I have looked at kits with and without, and am impressed with the amount of precision drilling that is needed. Too ham fisted to even attempt it. And I feel it improves the appearances significantly.
Best Wishes,
Jack
If you are having courting that much enthusiasm for superdetailing, and feel that you are "hamfisted" as you put it, then maybe an investment in a good precision machine-and there are a lot of them out there; go to Micromark for openers-like a VTM, or a lathe. I have a real good drill press for now, and if I wanted to really get into this gig, I would go out and find a used Bridgeport "J" head. This isn't "aircraft quality" stuff, so a tolerance or +/- .002 wouldn't bring the world to an end.
As far a phsyical obstacles, there was a guitar player named Django Reinhart many years back, who had only two good fingers on his left hand (fingerboard), and is to this day, a legendary jazz artist.
I only offer encouragement here, so please do not feel offended.
Rich
Rich - I too am ham fisted but having worked and a good number of HO engine kits I can tell you that drilling a Bowser or similar boiler is best done with a pin vise or Dremel Tool running on slow. Positioning a boiler in even a small drill press is too much trouble.
Dear Rich,
Hamfisted would be an overstatement. Rather would prefer to do other things. I am new to the HO game, and disassembled a used Atlas FA/2 today to see how it works. Cleaned and lubed it. Now runs great. Next item is to learn how to do the soldering of small stuff. This is not needed in my day job, just something I want to learn as I grow with this hobby.
Best Wishes,
Jack
An Atlas FA-B combination that I bought in the mid seventies are still running on a friend's HO layout. Some of the Atlas engines by Roco were noisy - the E-8/9 comes to mind. With regular lube they will run a long time. There used to be a problem with the wheels moving on the axles and going out of gauge. I fixed that with super glue.
A good way to learn about HO kits is to go to Ebay and bid on an older engine- there are lots of Varney 2-8-0s and 4-6-0s in differenst states of disrepair. Most of the Bowser engines have plans available on the Bowser website. A good hint in doing any disassembly is to mark parts with tape and make a diagram with some notes.
Dear Woody and Rich,
Much thanks for the info. Having great fun with this stuff, and meeting really nice people!
On another note, I will be going to the TCA meet in York, PA (I think), in the fall. If any of our fine forum members want to get together for a cup of Joe and some train chat, please let me know.
Best Wishes,
Jack