This is the F9 Locomotive from the Red Rock train set, it is the same locomotive used for the Royal Gorge F7A and F7B. In this video I am installing the DN135D DCC decoder from Digitrax. The next video is installing a LED head light (very bright). The resistors I used tested at 324 ohms each, the result was 2.99 volts, these are 3 volt LEDs. I used 2 because I had them laying around. I have two functions from the decoder left any Ideas?
DCC decoder: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIbo5zDDSSM&feature=youtu.be
LED Light: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyKP9XPrkkQ&feature=youtu.be
Nice job! I just ordered the DZ125 for mine. Hoping to get started on that soon. In the LED video it seems to be real bright, does it look that bright on your layout or is it just the way the camera is positioned?
Jerry
What are the capacitors and inductors there for to begin with?
If LED too bright try nail polish opaque neutral kind of color dabbed onto LED.................works great. If its the far locomotive was not sure that a very bluey looking LED. I would go with a soft white or yellow glow white LED. Minimum resistor i use is a 1K. The Ik resistor is an all arouind resistor for many uses so a package of them on hand is handy.They are cheap.
Quote from: jbrock27 on March 14, 2013, 07:21:15 AM
What are the capacitors and inductors there for to begin with?
To satisfy the EU and UK interference standards.
Bachmann sells a lot of stuff on the other side of the Pond.
Bachmann sells locos there that we do not normally see in the USA so Bachmann uses the same electronic components and USA locos are sold over there also.
Simple solution is to snip the caps when putting in a decoder that has Back Electro-Motive Force (BEMF).
Rich
To add to Rich reply by snipping the little round devil it improves or does not interfere with maybe reduced low speed operation. These are electrical noise interference suppressors regulated in UK and Europe. I remenber 45 years ago my road race set cars had them...................it was a Scalelextric from England, dont know if they still make them...............best car i had was a FWD Mini British racing green ! Steve
Thank you Rich and Steve.
Steve, I like your tip on using nail polish on the LED. I have used red nail polish on bulbs mounted into a couple of my "bumper" tracks.
Hi Jerrys HO
It is really that bright, about the same as a mini mag flash light... ;D The locomotive on the right is the standard unit at it's full brightness..
Hi Steve Turner
The locomotive on the left is the modified one the right one is stock... The LED is white to the eye, the camera adds the tint. I wanted it to be as bright as possible, this LED can range from 1.5 volts to 3 volts, brightness is adjustable by which resistor is used, the higher it's value the dimmer it will be, for instance the resistors I used were 648 ohms if you use a 1k ohm resistor it would be much dimmer. I also installed this LED into my B-23 with the Bachmann decoder, this decoder combination yielded 1.75 volts on low and 2.02 volts on high, much dimmer but bright enough that I don't have to cup my hands around it to see if the lights are on. This install is on here as well.
Thanks for the input
GSXR, did you use 3mm or 5mm size bulbs for your project?
Thank you.
-jb
Many fail to understand the LED's are current operated, not voltage operated. Voltage does not enter the equation until you have many in series. I have put four LED's in series with a decoder and not concerned about voltage.
Most LED's we use are 20 MA, max. That is the figure we are really interested in, along with the brightness we desire.
Today, super bright LED's are coming into the market so the resistance can be quite higher than 1k which is always been a good starting point.
I use a 5k pot in series with the LED and 12.2V VDC supply and adjust the pot to what I like for brightness while watching the current with the below meters. Then I chose the closest standard resistor.
Do a Google search for: using LED's. You will get hundreds of hits, including many LED sellers.
The below link shows the meters I use. Much better than assuming and guessing. They cost between $3.00 t0 $5.00 each.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_HF/index.htm
Rich
As a point of information, the 5mm LEDs I found at RADIO SHACK happened to be 25ma.
Quote from: jbrock27 on March 16, 2013, 04:41:04 PM
As a point of information, the 5mm LEDs I found at RADIO SHACK happened to be 25ma.
Looking for the specs is always a good idea. Assume 20 ma to be on the safe side.
As an example, about fifteen years ago I ordered some 3mm green LED's for battery operated test equipment that where rated at, 2.0 ma, max. I operate them at 1.0 ma off a 9 volt battery. Don't remember the resistance. I would have to open the case.
Again, I know the voltage spec of the LED but it was not important. I adjusted the pot until I got 1.0 ma. I use a ten turn 5 k pot so the resistance does not change so fast when I tun the shaf and burn out the LED.
Rich
Hi, jbrock27
Thanks for asking, I used 3mm LEDs.
Linrose
BCMD204UWC
3200 mcd-3mm white LED
3.2Vf@20mA-viewing angle-25
Thank you for the info and for getting back to me GSXR.
I was thinking of trying a green or yellow for my next directional light project.
A few ways to prevent test jig LED burnout:
1.) Use your Ohm meter to measure the resistance of your test jig (power disconnected, without LED).
Figure out which direction to turn your pot to get higher resistance.
Mark the test jig/pot with an arrow indicating the direction to turn the pot (to reset to a "higher Ohms" or "dimmer" starting position)
before connecting the LED.
2.) Make a "breadboard" test jig using resistors of various values in descending order. Label each touch point with its resistance value.
Touch the LED to the highest value resistor first, then work your way down.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
Hey Joe, do you ever check to see if there are personal messages sent to you?
-jb
Quote from: Joe Satnik on March 17, 2013, 10:53:10 AM
A few ways to prevent test jig LED burnout:
1.) Use your Ohm meter to measure the resistance of your test jig (power disconnected, without LED).
Figure out which direction to turn your pot to get higher resistance.
Mark the test jig/pot with an arrow indicating the direction to turn the pot (to reset to a "higher Ohms" or "dimmer" starting position)
before connecting the LED.
2.) Make a "breadboard" test jig using resistors of various values in descending order. Label each touch point with its resistance value.
Touch the LED to the highest value resistor first, then work your way down.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Joe Satnik
All very good details. Store the above message.
I use the below meters for this type of test.
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_HF/index.htm
For general model railroading
http://www.trainelectronics.com/Meter_Workshop/index.htm
Again, if you insist on working at what is called the component level, get the meters and suggested components by Joe.
Harbor Freight also sells a nifty set of double clip leads to help you in different test.
Rich
I will add, you cannot use an ohm meter to measure LED resistance.
Rich