Bachmann Message Board

Discussion Boards => Large => Topic started by: PACE on April 18, 2013, 03:12:42 PM



Title: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 18, 2013, 03:12:42 PM
My engine runs fine, however it stalls and the engine keeps running. This is on my g scale Christmas hauler. Is this something that I need to send in for repair or is it a simple fix?


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: GG1onFordsDTandI on April 18, 2013, 03:32:39 PM
My engine runs fine, however it stalls and the engine keeps running. This is on my g scale Christmas hauler. Is this something that I need to send in for repair or is it a simple fix?
Do you mean it stalls and you can hear the motor turning? Or it spins its wheels? Sounds keep running?


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 18, 2013, 04:44:36 PM
Yes, the engine keeps running but the wheel don't turn.


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Barry BBT on April 18, 2013, 04:50:04 PM
Pace,

You are confusing us, electric trains have an engine which pulls the train, but the locomotive has an electric motor, not an engine (which is found in cars and trucks).

Do you what age your loco is? 

But basically what is happening is that the motor is disengaged from its gearing, why and how to fix will depend upon which drive you have in the loco.

Barry


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 18, 2013, 04:57:00 PM
This is an electric g scale train. The electric motor keep running but the wheel don't turn. This is also a  4-6-0 Big Hauler Christmas Electric Loco. If you can give me some advice, I would appreciated. Thanks


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Barry BBT on April 19, 2013, 11:57:50 PM
There have been six design generations of Bachmann Big Hauler locos.

Knowing which one you have is the start to discovering how to correct the problem(s).

First Gen: battery powered/plastic track

2nd Gen:  first track powered loco, metal track (indoors only).

3rd Gen: The Plus generation, good gears, bad motor mount.  Fix: strapping the motor.

4th Gen: Single large worm gear, worm on motor to match, metal bracket for the motor, but the plastic bushings on the axle would shift and the motor could then carve up the worm gear.

5th Gen.  First open gearbox, nicely done, but do not overload it.

6th Gen: First gear box with all metal (brass) gears.  The best so far, should perform well over a long time.

Barry 


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 21, 2013, 04:43:59 PM
In case you can't tell, I am a newbee. However my Loco is of the second Generation, first track powered loco, metal track (indoor only). The loco runs fine, but when a load is applied or at times the electric motor keeps running but the wheels stop turning.  Please help!!! Thanks


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Barry BBT on April 21, 2013, 05:01:12 PM
PACE,

In all of the drive generations, the problem is caused by the motor being disconnected from the gear train, or if set screws are involved (not in your unit) a loose screw.

Very likely the motor has moved out of contact with the worm gear.  In your case the motor has a small spur gear, usually white plastic (a friction fit on the motor shaft).  If the motor runs and the gear doesn't move, you'll need a new spur gear (I have them).  If the spur gear moves but any of the next gears in the gear train (non-RR), then examine the gear that is not moving and the gears preceeding it, for the problem.

If it happens to be the plastic spur gear, it is not a good repair to send you the gear only, but will replace with a motor with the gear in place (hopefully for a good amount of time).

Barry


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 22, 2013, 08:25:49 AM
OK, Barry, good information. Now how do I get to these gears? I am mechanically incline.  And how do I order from you the parts I need? Thanks


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on April 22, 2013, 01:40:08 PM
You can click on his name and it will show his email or you can send him a private message.


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 22, 2013, 02:30:18 PM
Thanks Bill, but I still need to know how to get to the gears. I don't want to go into the wrong thing. Thanks


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Barry BBT on April 22, 2013, 09:38:02 PM
Pace,

In all cases, on a soft surface, a folded up towel, invert the loco so you can get to the bottom of the loco with a phillips screwdriver.  This piece is called the bottom plate, there are about four screws to remove; one near the rear hook and before the lube port (my gift to Bachmann), go about six more inches for the next screw, then down into the bridge section under the pilot truck, another screw and finally between the cylinders and in front of the pilots swing/crescent a long screw that goes all of the way into the bottom of the boiler.

There are two brass or black braces on either side of the smokebox coming from the pilot beam, pull the ends of the braces out of the smoke box sides.  Lift the bottom plate off, go towards the back of the loco and you will see the gears, motor, etc.  (I just remembered, you may not have a lube port if this loco is very old - over ten years).

Barry 


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Dave on April 23, 2013, 12:34:30 AM
Ive got one of these Locos Barry, and you are correct, there is no Lube port. Rather than fix the gears I would suggest a repower with a series 5 Chassis that Bachmann are selling.Probably the cheaper option, but if you want a drivetrain with a bit more grunt, then Barry has the answer. I have just purchased a series 5 to repower my series 2 Big Hauler and they are really good value. My next project, a Garret, using 2 of these Chassis,when I get a roundtuit.

              Dave
                 New Zealand


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Barry BBT on April 23, 2013, 01:10:31 AM
Pace,

Dave just beat me to the punch, especially if your loco is a 2nd Gen (first track power).  Dave is right, Bachmann has been offering two version of it's fifth gen drive chassis, the cheaper of the two is what will fit without problems (the more expensive has larger cylinders and requires adapting the air tanks to fit).

If you have a third gen drive, all kinds of solutions come to mind.  The third gen drive problem stems from the motor moving out of it's mount, but that is solved by "strapping the motor". 

If you have a third gen, I will send you the instructions for that fix.

Let me know what you think you have.

Barry


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on April 23, 2013, 08:49:54 AM
Dave's idea is a great way to go, not only that it is way cheaper than sending the loco in to service.  Dave, would love to see your project, please post about it when you get to it. 

Bill


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 23, 2013, 08:08:15 PM
Barry, I see the problem. The big gear attached to the wheels is split. The gear is plastic and the inner piece is just spinning. Is there a way to replace that gear, or would Dave's suggestion be better? If so, what should I order, and are there instruction on how to modify or install it?


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Barry BBT on April 24, 2013, 01:07:43 AM
Pace,

The major problem is the design and age of your drive.  We can fix it, and then we'll fix it again, etc.

As I mentioned I think Dave gave the right answer, get the cheaper of the two drives and you'll have the best answer.

I was just thinking how much money we could have saved if Bachmann had had this offer ten years ago.

Barry



Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on April 24, 2013, 10:31:03 AM
PACE,

The Chassis for sale have a number CH-90____.   If you know the set number your locomotive came out of then look for that CH-900 number.  If you don't know then look at the pictures and choose one of the chassis looks the most like the one on your locomotive.  The only difference in the $30 chassis are the colors of paint on them the style of side rods and the length of the pilot(cowcatcher). 

Loco Bill


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 24, 2013, 10:50:42 AM
The chassis for my loco would cost $50.00 on sale. It is the Christmas loco. All I need is the drive wheel gear. It is the plastic gear that is in the motor box. Bachmann is sold out of the motor box, maybe for 4 weeks. However if you have just the gear, I would be happy to purchase it from you.  Thanks


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on April 24, 2013, 02:02:26 PM
PACE
There were many Christmas locos to respond  you I would need to know what the set number was for the set your locomotive came in.  some sets have the $50 chassis and others have the $30 chassis.  Either way it is a bargain.

If you want to repair it yourself and keep the older chassis then Barry is the guy that can help the best with that.  


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 24, 2013, 03:29:56 PM
Thanks Bill. You are right, I would like to try to repair it first myself. If that does not work then I will get the chassis. Barry if you have this gear let me know how to order it from you. Thanks.


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Barry BBT on April 25, 2013, 05:08:49 AM
Pace,

Please understand, we/I am not pushing a repair.  This drive is a bad design superseded by better designs and practices.  Fix if you must, but you will be back, no question.  Best buy the less expensive chassis offered by Bachmann. as I have said the Annie drive is virtually the same as the lower cost offering without having to modify the air cylinders.

Barry


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Barry BBT on April 25, 2013, 02:42:06 PM
Pace,

I have any axle gear you may be looking for, but I need to know what drive you have.  If the axle gear is narrow (measure about 1/8" or 3/16" wide?).  Is the axle gear on one side of the axle or in the center?

Barry


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on April 25, 2013, 03:03:48 PM
Barry it's the 1/8, and the gear is on one side of the axle.

Thanks


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: Barry BBT on April 27, 2013, 11:54:28 PM
Pace,

No problem, but need to know where to send it.

Barry

623-936-6088

6822 W. Villa St
Phoenix, AZ 85043

barrysbigtrains@live.com


Title: Re: Engine
Post by: PACE on May 06, 2013, 08:04:02 AM
Thanks for the gears and the information, you know your trains. :)