Looking for an adhesive to fasten E-Z track to a new interior door surface. I want the plastic to wood bond to be permanent since when not in use the layout will be stored vertically behind another door in the house. If later removal without damaging the track would be possible that would be a plus. I would like to avoid track nails, if possible, but wouldn't rule that out. Any suggestions? I would appreciate specific product names if possible.
New-
You might get better answers on the N board but your question is pretty generic so I'll give it a shot.
I suggest that you use plastic-safe construction adhesive or caulk. Liquid Nails for Projects fits the bill. Lay a small bead of adhesive, spread it with a putty knife and then push your track with roadbed firmly into the adhesive strip. This will be a permanent construction although you can remove the track if you slide a putty knife between the track and door surface. Make sure that you have excellent electrical continuity between track sections and adequate feeders. It will be difficult to add these once your track is down and fixed in place.
There is a never-mentioned problem with using a door for a train board: noise. The thin wood of the door surface and the generally hollow core can really resound to the sounds of trains passing. I don't know if some expanding foam inside the door would help but, if you try it, make sure you don't put so much in that it pushes the door's surfaces out of flat.
Good luck with your project.
-- D
Dear New,
I use caulk too, but I run a bead down the centerline of the track. The roadbed connectors under the track adhere to the caulk, but the track is easy to remove later.
Have fun!
the Bach-man
My thanks to Doneldon and the Bach-man for your suggestions. I took a long look at what Home Depot had to offer and finally remembered something my Dad used to use in the pre epoxy days, Weldwood contact cement now mfg by Dap. The bottle still has that 1950's look and the odor is distinctive. I went with that because it's one of the few adhesives that specifies that it will bond wood and plastic. It is a contact cement, so once the track is put on the board you have just a minute or so to reposition. Time will tell if the bond is permanent, but that's what the bottle says. Thanks again for your help.
New-
Contact cement will work fine as far as permanence goes. It will eat into your plastic roadbed a bit but it won't
show. My big concern with this product, however, is that you'll get an instant bond.
That means you'll have no opportunity to make sure your straightaways are straight and, more important, no
way to slide your track sections together. That means you'll end up with rail breaks at joints, misaligned track and
joints where both rail joiners don't wrap around the feet of both rails.
What I'm saying is, no disrespect to your father, DO NOT USE CONTACT CEMENT. The lack of open time renders it
unsuitable for laying track.
-- D
Dear New,
AGREED!!!
the Bach-man
Look for an adhesive caulk. DAP makes one called Phenoseal and it comes in colors. Sticks great but track can be removed later. It also allows for adjustment before setting up.
Thanks to all who replied since my last post on 7/19. I used the contact cement, and probably due to beginner's luck, didn't experience any problems. I ran a pencil line around the roadbed, inside and out, and then unjointed the track into four parts, the straight away, the left loop, the right, and the center where I have the curved rerailer. There were only two places where the joiners didn't grab one track the correct way, but I worked fast and was able to get them in position. I bought myself some time by gently laying the sections between the lines and only when they were in position did I push them down to bind them to the wood. The train flys! Again, I know you guys have the experience and I should have waited for a few days before jumping in, but since the cost was minimal and it worked, I'm happy. If I get into this hobby I'll take your advice on future layouts. Thanks again, this forum is a great service! One thing I will share if anyone uses that contact cement for other projects gluing to wood, there were a few places where the cement ran outside of the penciled lines. Paint thinner on a cotton swab removed it instantly and there are no traces of the cement or the thinner.
When using EZ track I like to use hot glue to hold the track in place. It holds great, a little along one edge of the track is sufficient.
Should you decide to move the track a sharp knife will break the bond, the glue will peel off and your track is like new with no evidence of glue.