Hello
I have a Bachmann 482 engine and the back wheel keeps falling off. Can someone tell me how the wheel (axel) is supposed to stay in? I push the axel back in but it just comes back out right away. Is there some sort of clip or something?
heat-
I do not know if by back wheel you mean the trailing truck or the last of the drivers. The solution may be as
easy as glue. Perhaps the Bachmann parts diagram for the Berk will help you:
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/50901.pdf
If nothing else, you can return the loco to Bachmann for lifetime warranty service. Good luck and please tell
us how things worked out.
-- D
Thank you Don I really appreciate the reply. The PDF was great.
I tried calling the company and the voicemail picked up and said they would call me right back. I left a message with customer service over 2 hours ago but still no call back. I called parts and got the same message so I left a message there as well. Still no response.
I attached a couple of photos of the engine. If you look at the wheel there is a little pin sticking out of it. It doesn't look like the drawings.
(EDIT) I actually tried to post the photo but it would not let me. The file size is 119kb and it says the largest size can be 123kb so I do not know what that is about.
Quote from: dheaton on December 05, 2013, 12:17:26 PM
Hello
I have a Bachmann 482 engine and the back wheel keeps falling off. Can someone tell me how the wheel (axel) is supposed to stay in? I push the axel back in but it just comes back out right away. Is there some sort of clip or something?
Does the attachment button to upload images not work? I see images on this forum that way exceed the 123kb that says is allowed but I can not get an image to load. I do not have a photobucket account and really do not want one. The note that popped up said to contact the admin. Who is the admin and how do I contact them?
Is this the part?
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1085
No sorry. I tried to upload a photo so you could see. The wheel that keeps falling off (out) is the last Drive wheel on the left side of the engine.
David
Quote from: Irbricksceo on December 05, 2013, 02:31:03 PM
Is this the part?
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1085
Quote from: dheaton on December 05, 2013, 02:33:21 PM
No sorry. I tried to upload a photo so you could see. The wheel that keeps falling off (out) is the last Drive wheel on the left side of the engine.
David
Quote from: Irbricksceo on December 05, 2013, 02:31:03 PM
Is this the part?
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1085
You need a photo/image hosting site like Photo Bucket to post photos here. Very easy.
http://photobucket.com/
Rich
ok lets try this
http://i322.photobucket.com/albums/nn414/dkheaton/131205_train_0128_01.jpg
http://i322.photobucket.com/albums/nn414/dkheaton/131205_train_0129_02.jpg
How do I get the photos to show instead of just showing a link? Is it possible?
a closer look
http://i322.photobucket.com/albums/nn414/dkheaton/131205_train_0128.jpg
When you said 482, I assumed you meant 4-8-2 as in a mountain, not a 4-8-4. Anyway, It looks like you have an older model but the problem is the axle joiner, a plastic piece that holds the two wheels together. I don't know if you can fix it with glue, maybe you can. You will probably need to take off the bottome so you can get to the axles though.
regarding the pictures, copy the IMG code from photobucket.
Quote from: dheaton on December 05, 2013, 05:04:23 PM
ok lets try this
http://i322.photobucket.com/albums/nn414/dkheaton/131205_train_0128_01.jpg
http://i322.photobucket.com/albums/nn414/dkheaton/131205_train_0129_02.jpg
How do I get the photos to show instead of just showing a link? Is it possible?
Yes it is possible. Just follow the instructions there.
Rich
Sorry the only thing I could find on the engine at all was Bachmann then on the side of it were the numbers 482. Is there supposed to be a model # somewhere?
I heard that Bachman has a lifetime warrantee on engines, is that correct? If so how do you get a hold of them? I called several times today and just left messages but no one has called me back.
Ok lets try the img thing
(http://i322.photobucket.com/albums/nn414/dkheaton/131205_train_0129_02.jpg) (http://s322.photobucket.com/user/dkheaton/media/131205_train_0129_02.jpg.html)
Look at the Parts page. All the instructions are there. I have done it.
Rich
Thanks Rich
Where do I find the parts page? How do I find out what model this is so I can do a search.
Quote from: richg on December 05, 2013, 05:28:57 PM
Look at the Parts page. All the instructions are there. I have done it.
Rich
Try this site to match up what you have.
http://www.hoseeker.net/bachmann.html
Most listings in the parts section here are for newer models, which probably is not far off from the older ones.
Jerry
Hey Jerry what would you call this engine?
Oooooolllllldddddd!!!!!! 4-8-4 :D :D :D :D
I'm not a steam guy, but someone on this forum is (how bout it Jonathan)
It is a warbaby paint GS-4 Locomotive, they are 4-8-4
Yes it looks allot like the 484 from the images that Jerry linked me to. It also brings up a parts page but doesn't show how the wheels are supposed to fit on.
Does Bachmann have a lifetime warrantee? Or is this engine worth getting fixed in your opinion?
Quote from: Irbricksceo on December 05, 2013, 06:17:37 PM
It is a warbaby paint GS-4 Locomotive, they are 4-8-4
Bachmann does have a lifetime warranty. If your loco is not able to be fixed they will replace it with one equal or lesser value. It will cost 25.00 plus shipping if you decide to go that route. If you have sentimental value I would see about repairing it first then I would try calling the service dept. or e-mailing them. They are going into their busy season so be patient.
Jerry
There are two small screws on the bottom where the wheels are and I took those out but could not figure out how to get the bottom plastic off. Any thoughts
Thanks Hunt. I did notice that. By the way what is a DCC?
Quote from: Hunt on December 05, 2013, 06:32:24 PM
Click Here (http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/service_2010.php) for Bachmann Warranty Information.
Notice it is a Lifetime Limited Warranty not a Lifetime Warranty,
QuoteThanks Hunt. I did notice that. By the way what is a DCC?
FUN! that's what. DCC Digital Command Control.
http://www.dccwiki.com/Introduction_to_DCC
http://www.awrr.com/dccintro1.html
http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn2/DCC.htm
Great links
Jerry
Cool, thanks. I now know that I have nothing to do with DCC in the things that I have.
AC,DC,or DCC doesn't matter as long as you have fun with what you have.
Well I am sure your tired of reading my replies by now so gotta go.
Have fun and keep us posted on your progress.
Jerry
No I am not tired of reading them at all in fact it is quite addicting. I have been looking on youtube and watched some videos of people putting up shelves in their office close to the cealing and running trains on them. Cool. I really do not know what I want to do with all this yet, but once I figure out what it all is and if it works then I will figure it out. By the way I think I forgot to mention this is all HO stuff.
David-
I see you have an older GS Northern. I though the 4-8-2 was the wheel arrangement.
DCC stands for Digital Command Control. It's the latest (although far from new, now) way to control model trains. With DCC, each locomotive has a unique digital "decoder" which interprets commands from a special kind of controller which sends the commands to the entire train system using a digital address so each decoder responds only to commands for that locomotive. Track voltage is always full on, with the decoders permitting only the chosen voltage through to the loco's motor. The same controller can operate lights and sounds as well, as long as the decoder has the circuitry for those features. Motion decoders all control at least a few lighting functions but only some have sound features.
Conventional HO train control, DC, runs train speed and direction by changing the voltage and polarity of track power. All locomotives on a given track section ("block") move the same direction and at comparable speeds. Operating more than one train requires separating track into electrically isolated blocks and separate "cabs" which control voltage and polarity. This makes for considerable wiring complexity and expense. In essence, one operates the rails, not the locos. DCC changes all that, permitting independent locomotive control on the same track. I've heard people say that DCC runs trains while DC runs rails and I think that's an apt description.
-- D
Good information Don. So am I correct in thinking that I can add DCC to even an old train set?
Quote from: Doneldon on December 05, 2013, 08:23:11 PM
David-
I see you have an older GS Northern. I though the 4-8-2 was the wheel arrangement.
DCC stands for Digital Command Control. It's the latest (although far from new, now) way to control model trains. With DCC, each locomotive has a unique digital "decoder" which interprets commands from a special kind of controller which sends the commands to the entire train system using a digital address so each decoder responds only to commands for that locomotive. Track voltage is always full on, with the decoders permitting only the chosen voltage through to the loco's motor. The same controller can operate lights and sounds as well, as long as the decoder has the circuitry for those features. Motion decoders all control at least a few lighting functions but only some have sound features.
Conventional HO train control, DC, runs train speed and direction by changing the voltage and polarity of track power. All locomotives on a given track section ("block") move the same direction and at comparable speeds. Operating more than one train requires separating track into electrically isolated blocks and separate "cabs" which control voltage and polarity. This makes for considerable wiring complexity and expense. In essence, one operates the rails, not the locos. DCC changes all that, permitting independent locomotive control on the same track. I've heard people say that DCC runs trains while DC runs rails and I think that's an apt description.
-- D
So here is a link to another post I did into a different thread. It has photos of some of the things I have found.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,25923.0.html
David-
Yes, you can add DCC to any trains, new or old. At least in theory. Some older models, however, use their
frames for one side of the electrical connections which means the motors have to be electrically isolated
from the frames (it's usually easier to install a can motor), new motor mounts may be needed and lighting
might also require work. Space can be an issue, at least if a sound decoder is used, because there also has
to be a speaker and its enclosure. And, gear trains that seemed to work okay with a low rpm open-frame
motor can be problematic with the new motors.
I'm not trying to discourage you from DCC: indeed, I can't think of a good reason not to use DCC.
And I'm not suggesting that older equipment can't be updated. It certainly can. But some projects are a
lot more work than others.
-- Doneldon
Thank you don. I can't believe I am saying this but maybe I will need to purchase a new engine that is DCC ready. :)
I started out that way, first try to convert a 4-6-4 Hudson to DCC was weak at best. Took a lot of work only to find I spent more money doing the conversion than a new locomotive would have cost and it did not run near as well as a new locomotive does. Next came sound! That's a whole different set of challenges to say the least.
When adding sound to a diesel, it is very difficult to find a space for the speaker and the light system is usually a problem as well.
Adding sound to a Steam Engine is easier as you can put the card and speaker in the tender, but then you need to either install a plug between the Engine and the Tender or just live with both units being married all the time, as is the case with my 4-6-4 Hudson. Even converting DCC to DCC/Sound is an extra cost as the DCC Sound Board replaces the DCC Decoder that came in the locomotive to start with.
I have, as a result, decided to only purchase DCC/Sound equipped locomotives. They may cost a little more up front, but believe me, they wind up being cheaper in the long run.
dheaton,
One of the best things about this hobby is that it can and should be enjoyed in a multitude of ways! That being said, I personally like rebuilding and building locomotives, especially older ones. However, is your GS4 a pancake motor version? If it is then good parts are very difficult to come by. Most likely Bachmann will not have them in stock or even able to get them. If it is a newer type with a can motor, then I would try and order the drive wheel assembly. I checked with Bachmann website and they are currently sold out. From experience gluing the axle back into the plastic sleeve on the axle is difficult. If you try that make sure your timing is correct before the glue is applied for your drive wheels! Once you find a glue that will adhere, you will not be able to adjust the timing like you can with a good axle sleeve. Other things may be able to correct this problem as well though. If you have access to a small mill/lathe, you can make the sleeve and use it as intended, a friction fit. If it was me, I would send the locomotive and basic cost to Bachmann. Hope this helps, Stephen
From how you are posing this, I would suggest you don't fool with it and just contact Bachmann and make arrangements for a repair. A driver falling off is not to be remedied with super glue...
Rich C.
Well I have called Bachmann again. I hope I get a call back this time.
Thank you everyone for all of your help and support.
During the Christmas season it would be best to call the direct number (215) 533-1600 and ask for the service manager. You will get a quicker response this way.
Great. Thank you
Quote from: Yardmaster on December 10, 2013, 11:20:29 AM
During the Christmas season it would be best to call the direct number (215) 533-1600 and ask for the service manager. You will get a quicker response this way.
If you try glue, try Gorilla Glue. Because Gorilla Glue expands it will make a very tight bond because of the enclosed connector. Don't use too much and cut off any glue that expands out of the connector when it's dry. Don't use too much. It worked great on a geared Rivarossi driver. One very important point. Make sure the wheels are "quartered". It's not that hard, just be sure all the counterweights on the drivers are in the same position. Good luck.
David-
Gorilla Glue is a great product. It does expand quite a bit as it cures so be careful how much you use. It forms a strong bond with just about everything it comes into contact with; you won't be able to remove errant glue from anything so use it carefully. It will put dark stains on your skin though I believe they are not harmful. And buy a small container of it because it will go bad a year after opening.
The expansion is remarkably powerful -- strong enough to force itself into wood -- so be sure to clamp your wheels/axles tightly. Don't try to remove the squeeze-out until the glue has cured or you'll wind up with a total mess. Last, don't put the wheels back into the loco until the glue has cured or the squeeze-out might turn all of your drive assembly into one piece.
Please don't interpret my many cautions as a negative review of the product. I've had excellent experience with Gorilla Glue and have some on hand (frequently literally) at all times. I heartily endorse it as long as it is used carefully.
-- Doneldon