Hello People,
EXPERIMENTED WITH THE SOUND A FEW DIFFERENT WAYS FOUND A Little tip to Improve the ALCO s2 sound that we found very good, but lacking the low end diesel sound that the ALCO diesel has,
The sound is there but needed help getting out,
The procedure requires removing the shell and with a drill bit carefully ream out the hole at the top of the speaker enclosure to 1/4 inch by hand ONLY!!!!!!!,Make sure to tape the front headlight wires to protect them from the bit scraping them with a small piece of masking tape.
Next find a piece of cardboard from a serial box ,that thickness and cut a piece to fit in the rectangular section in the shell the radiator section,
Use your point of the scissors to make a 1/8 inch hole in the middle of the cardboard piece you cut out DOESENOT HAVE TO BE A CLEAN HOLE OR PERFECT JUST A HOLE and insert it in the section in the shell ,
No glue or tape just cut it to fit tight in the shells rectangular section above the speaker box, MIGHT TAKE A FEW TRIES TO GET IT RIGHT,! Reinstall the shell and enjoy!You will hear the rattling of the diesel like you never did before especially at the second notch,Have fun !
Jack
Al1K-
I'm unfamiliar with the loco you posted about so I might be coming in from left field on this (the first time
in my life to such a thing, of course), but make certain that your modifications don't penetrate the speaker
enclosure because that will significantly disrupt the sound.
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on January 31, 2014, 02:38:53 PM
Al1K-
I'm unfamiliar with the loco you posted about so I might be coming in from left field on this (the first time
in my life to such a thing, of course), but make certain that your modifications don't penetrate the speaker
enclosure because that will significantly disrupt the sound.
-- D
YES GOOD ADVISE! NEED TO STAY AT THE TOP OF THE BOX DO NOT GO THROUGH IT , THIS SPEAKER IS OFFSET IN THE LOWER HALF AT THE OTHER END OF THE BOX SO IF YOU HIT THE BOTTOM OF THE BOX ACCIDENTALLY YOU DO NOT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT DAMAGING THE SPEAKER BECAUSE IT IS AT THE OTHER END JUST DO NOT PUSH TO HARD , JUST LIGHTLY REAM THE TOP HOLE OF THE BOX WITH A 1/4 BIT ONLY TAKES A FEW LIGHT TURNS OF THE BIT WITH YOUR FINGERS AND YOUR DONE CLEAN UP ANY BURRS WITH A REVERSE TURN.
THANKS!, Jack
No need to SHOUT.....
He had to the volume was too loud! ;D
Quote from: Jerrys HO on February 01, 2014, 09:01:34 AM
He had to the volume was too loud! ;D
Sadly an all to common problem.
I SAID, IT'S A COMMON PROBLEM!!!!!! ;D
Quote from: Yardmaster on February 01, 2014, 08:46:00 AM
No need to SHOUT.....
Bold print is in no means shouting,IT is Print,,IT is just being used as TO highlight the detail so there will not be a misunderstanding with the procedure that was stated, plus some people may not be as youthful as your self and it tend to read a little easier when specific details need to be addressed,No need to be critical on how someone types when there just trying to help other people,I WAS ALWAYS TAUGHT THAT IF YOU DONT HAVE SOMTHING GOOD OR NICE TO SAY ,DONT SAY ANYTHING
Jack
While it's true in some circles all caps = shouting, I recently learned some folks with vision problems keep the 'Caps Lock' key on all the time so they can see what they are typing.
Len
Quote from: ALCO1000 on February 01, 2014, 10:31:27 AM
Bold print is in no means shouting,IT is Print,,IT is just being used as TO highlight the detail
Jack-
It is a common convention, one which is used on this site, that all caps DO denote shouting. Additionally,
you said caps are used to highlight a detail. That's true, but there is no highlighting when you use caps
FOR EVERY SINGLE LETTER!
-- D
I have, or rather did have vision problems.
I am blind in the left eye and used to wear coke bottle glasses to see out of my right eye. Something like -40 vision in the right eye.
I had eye surgery last Wednesday, January 22 when they put a plastic lens into my right eye, with no sedation BTW, just drops in the eye and now my vision is around -5, which means I need glasses for reading but no longer need them for driving.
My point? You do NOT need caps if you have a vision problem. If you have a PC, there is a "zoom" function. In Windozs 7, it's in the menu in the top right hand corner of the monitor and you can zoom from 110% up to 500% so there is NO NEED TO SHOUT!
People really should learn and explore their computer as it's quite amazing what it can do. :)
I'm sure Macs will have something similar though being a non-intuitive Mac it'll be harder to find.
If you need to emphase something use bold as again, there's no need for caps.
Oh, and why we are at it, there is a built in spellchecker in this forum that could and should be used by everybody more often.
Cheers
Roger.
Quote from: Len on February 01, 2014, 11:30:18 AM
While it's true in some circles all caps = shouting, I recently learned some folks with vision problems keep the 'Caps Lock' key on all the time so they can see what they are typing.
Len
Then they need glasses (by the way,I do), or quit trying to use their phone as a computer. ::)
I have always considered it shouting.
Jerry
Quote from: Doneldon on February 01, 2014, 04:39:03 PM
Quote from: ALCO1000 on February 01, 2014, 10:31:27 AM
Bold print is in no means shouting,IT is Print,,IT is just being used as TO highlight the detail
Jack-
It is a common convention, one which is used on this site, that all caps DO denote shouting. Additionally,
you said caps are used to highlight a detail. That's true, but there is no highlighting when you use caps
FOR EVERY SINGLE LETTER!
-- D
Actually, there's no need for caps to highlight something, you should use the
bold function. You find it in the
Add BBC Tags, above the emoticons when you are composing or modifying a post. ;D
Cheers
Roger.
QuoteActually, there's no need for caps to highlight something, you should use the bold function. You find it in the Add BBC Tags, above the emoticons when you are composing or modifying a post. Grin
Cheers
Roger.
Thanks Roger, I always wondered how JBrock did that. ;D
Hello
Good tip Roger on the ZOOM function. GOOGLE CHROME also has this function in the top right corner of the screen. There is a series of 3 bars. If one clicks on it a drop down menu appears and in the menu is a ZOOM feature which may help some folks.
Quote from: jbrock27 on February 01, 2014, 06:55:42 PM
Hello
Just like Jim LOUD,
BOLD, and unpredictable. ;D ;)
WHAT the?!?
Actually, that was very well said Jerry.
For Jack, I was trying to figure out a way to type in all CAPS, then high light and reduce to lower case, but can't find a way. Anyone have an idea about that?
Quote from: jbrock27 on February 01, 2014, 07:06:40 PM
Good tip Roger on the ZOOM function. GOOGLE CHROME also has this function in the top right corner of the screen. There is a series of 3 bars. If one clicks on it a drop down menu appears and in the menu is a ZOOM feature which may help some folks.
Like I said, it's amazing how many people, not counting you, who have no idea what their computer can do because the never ever bother to explore it.
Cheers
Roger.
Thank you.
I have learned quite a bit in the last 4 days, while a terrific team from INDIA basically rebuilt my computer.
Quote from: jbrock27 on February 01, 2014, 07:25:02 PM
Thank you.
I have learned quite a bit in the last 4 days, while a terrific team from INDIA basically rebuilt my computer.
You spoke to "David", located in "California"?
The guy with the Indian accent? :)
Quote from: jbrock27 on February 01, 2014, 07:25:02 PM
Thank you.
I have learned quite a bit in the last 4 days, while a terrific team from INDIA basically rebuilt my computer.
Glad to see you got it fixed. I have never had any luck with those guy's over there. Once my warranty was done, off to my friends place to get-r-done.
Let's see, from last Sunday, until earlier today, I s/w a guy whose name I can't remember, Richard, Xavier, Menthau, VJ and Kerthac and a lady named Hanz with the cable company (that was a red herring call though).
The guys from INDIA were DELL guys, very skilled and for the most part, understandable on the phone. Some had sense of humor and some did not (kinda like the folks here). In my view, they work super hard. What I did not like, is how they are on a set time schedule and have to turn you over to a new person the next day if they don't get done what needs doin in their allotted time. Plus the inconvenience of having to be around for the call.
Overall very pleased as I am way past warranty. Made a call for help last Sunday, tried to talk me into a service plan that would cost more than a new laptop, I said no. Negotiated a flat rate for help. It took longer than planned to get it all right, but was glad I called bc the Operating System had a flaw, hence the rebuild. Definitely got my money's worth with all the help I got.
You can also increase type size on the screen by using the control Key and the + key, and reduce type size by the Control key and - key.
Another good tip!
Interesting. I have Windows 7 Home Premium and my zoom utility is in the lower right corner. It shows the existing zoom level, a magnifying glass and the arrow to open the menu. Mine shows zooming from 50-400% plus the custom level goes forever; I just looked at it now and it ran beyond 2000% and was still going when I tired of the check.
You don't even need the utility, however. You can zoom in and out with CTRL plus + or -. Holding CTRL while scrolling with the mouse wheel also zooms in and out.
-- D
Wasn't this a thread about trains....?
Alco1000, I'm going to try this but I have a couple of questions. How long is the card board, from headlight to engineers compartment or shorter? also, Did you experiment with other thicknesses of cardboard? Is the 1/8" in the cardboard in line with the open vents in the top of the loco or centered in the cardboard? Thanks, john
Yardmaster, How about deleting all these off topic posts or move them to the computer forum?
Well there is a molded section that is rectangular where the vent is on top of the hood. You want to cut a piece of cereal box cardboard
thickness what 1/32 with a 1/16 inch hole in the middle(SMall!) ,cut it to press fit it in the molded boss ,trial and error yes,
If you have one! Turn the sound on at a standing idle and cup your hand over the vent just behind the headlight on the long hood ,you will here a change deeper tone, after you do this simple cardboard and hole baffle thingy, then try the hand cupped test and there will not be a
change in tone.Cheap,quick, works!
Regards,
Jack
After looking at this thread, I had to post this: :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3lzdaC8yQ4
Unit is a former military RSD-1, an A-1-A trucked, sloped cab version of the RS-1 (which uses the same 539 engine as the S-2); units were designed to run in Europe and the Middle East, hence the six wheel trucks to distribute weight on lines with low axle loadings and the sloping cab for clearances.
Now, how much debate will there be on adding a smoke unit to your Alcos?
J3a-
Wow! That's one smoky Alco. I can't help but wonder if it has a leaky head gasket.
Did the smoke stay white after it was underway?
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on February 04, 2014, 06:11:56 AM
J3a-
Wow! That's one smoky Alco. I can't help but wonder if it has a leaky head gasket.
Did the smoke stay white after it was underway?
-- D
From what I've been told, most of what you're seeing in this clip is because the engine is cold. What happens is that when you start the unit, or in some cases
attempt to start it, the injectors spray fuel into the engine, but the fuel is only vaporized; it doesn't ignite. This results in the white "smoke," which British enthusiasts have called "clag." As the engine is cranked over, the compressed air gradually starts to warm up, and eventually you get the engine to start. It will still smoke like anything until it gets warm enough, but it's running, and will be fully warm in 20 minutes or so. . .at least, that's what I've been told, and that to warm up a steam engine actually takes hours (even though all you need is a dry match :-) )!
More clips on hard-starting diesel locomotives, mostly from our British counterparts. Note that many of these engines are "hunting" (engine speed goes up and down); this is because the lube oil is also cold, and it's also what's used to control the engine's governor, so the stiff oil makes the governor slow to react to engine speed changes. . .another fun thing to deal with on a cold diesel locomotive. . .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CG91fYHcm-k
Some cylinders fire, some don't, the engine is cold, cold, cold. . .glow plugs would help, but they don't have them. . .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pv_cGG56QA4
Cold, smoky start, and a steam engine adds to the atmosphere, but note how clean it's finally running at the end when it gets warm. Until then, it's even hard on the photographer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JpQivta6MQ
This sort of thing isn't limited to first generation locomotives, although I do wonder if these fellows still have their jobs on Norfolk Southern:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOj6gPwkiXg
Everything we've been looking at so far are 4-cycle engines. EMDs are two-cycles, and they seem to start easier. These happen to be export locos, but they are fun to watch and hear:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gmi_-tRTfbc
Turbocharged 645 (this is what's in an SD-40-2):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DmY2HPnOlWY
EMD 710:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpXBoYcQH6k
Nice, easy start with a 567 in an F9:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_h9MpfQ_6I
FM in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPLH5JwqGxg
FM start:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPRp2ism_Ww
Baldwin:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAf8wZI9eFs
Alcos again:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXx9Y2zcSKw
That should be enough for now. . .unless someone can get GE 44 and 70 ton units. . .
Did find a 70-tonner:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1NnnmnwRxo
Alco prime movers will smoke like mad even when they are hot, not just on start up. Even GE or EMD units can smoke on start up.
The the two reasons Alcos smoke are: -
1) If they've been idling a while, there's a build up of carbon. What I liked to do and photographers loved, is come back from lunch, after the unit had been idling for an hour or more, leave the brakes on and open the throttle. This provided black clouds of smoke as the unit slowly pulled away. Yes, any diesel unit can over come it's brakes, even with a full brake application this, combined with turbo lag, produced copious amounts of smoke.
2) Turbo lag. Alcos were notorious for turbo lag. Alcos had a pure turbo whereby when you open the throttle the injectors dump more fuel into the cylinders and the RPMs increase with the engine burning very rich, until the rpms kick the turbo up to where the boost gives enough air to even out the ratio. This all happens fairly quickly, but until that turbo catches up and the engine is burning rich it will smoke.
Cheers.
Roger.
Quote from: ALCO1000 on January 29, 2014, 09:38:28 AM
Hello People,
EXPERIMENTED WITH THE SOUND A FEW DIFFERENT WAYS FOUND A Little tip to Improve the ALCO s2 sound that we found very good, but lacking the low end diesel sound that the ALCO diesel has,
The sound is there but needed help getting out,
The procedure requires removing the shell and with a drill bit carefully ream out the hole at the top of the speaker enclosure to 1/4 inch by hand ONLY!!!!!!!,Make sure to tape the front headlight wires to protect them from the bit scraping them with a small piece of masking tape.
Next find a piece of cardboard from a serial box ,that thickness and cut a piece to fit in the rectangular section in the shell the radiator section,
Use your point of the scissors to make a 1/8 inch hole in the middle of the cardboard piece you cut out DOESENOT HAVE TO BE A CLEAN HOLE OR PERFECT JUST A HOLE and insert it in the section in the shell ,
No glue or tape just cut it to fit tight in the shells rectangular section above the speaker box, MIGHT TAKE A FEW TRIES TO GET IT RIGHT,! Reinstall the shell and enjoy!You will hear the rattling of the diesel like you never did before especially at the second notch,Have fun !
Jack
Hello all!
I have an PRR Alco S4 with sound (it is marketed as S2, but the number #8432 and long hood are from PRR S4 engine). But, sadly, the truck is Alco "Blunt", as the S2 had.
I have two questions:
1. How to remove the darn plastick truck covers from the truck bottom?? I can see the one wire on front truck is disconnected, so the sound is sporradic. I need to remove the plastic cover to get to the wire and solder it back to the truck.
2. Can I order ARR type truck covers from Bachmann, to switch them on my S4 an make it little more correct? If somebody have link or email, I'd be very greatfull.
Thanks!
This is the trucks I need to dissassemble to re-solder it:
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z278/thommo0202/USA_modeli/alco_s2_truck_zps8c9e4aa9.jpg)
Old diesels smoke ALCOs BIG POWER 4 STROKE smoke good!It would be nice to have a smoke unit in a ho scale Diesel that could throw out a cloud without contaminating things I was thinking about the innards of those new electric cigarettes ITS ACtually advertised as a vapor,use somthing like that with some type of fan and ????Put it in a dummy diesel more room !
Jack
Look at the front and back of the truck. The truck side frames and front and rear connecting parts are all one unit. Put a small flat bladed screw driver on the front of the truck and pull the top of the screw driver towards you and down. This should cause the side frame to pop loose. Joe
Jack Alco1000, just finished your modification for the sound on the Alco S2. Worked great. Definitely enhanced the lower pitched sounds. I personally think the turbo is too strong, but other than changing the sound board I guess I'll live with it. I am guessing that blocking most of the shell and opening up the sound box, allows for a larger "echo" chamber. Anyway, thank you for sharing your experiment. Dave
Quote from: DAVE2744 on February 11, 2014, 03:46:39 PM
Jack Alco1000, just finished your modification for the sound on the Alco S2. Worked great. Definitely enhanced the lower pitched sounds. I personally think the turbo is too strong, but other than changing the sound board I guess I'll live with it. I am guessing that blocking most of the shell and opening up the sound box, allows for a larger "echo" chamber. Anyway, thank you for sharing your experiment. Dave
Dave ,
Great now to fiddle with my s2,They have a enlarged speaker box chamber in that ,seems like they are trying to get the most out of it ,Really surprised me that they make that kind of a running change basically same mechanism under the hood,they even changed the circuit board to compensate for that change,Thumbs up for Bachmanns efforts to improve a product that really is not on the high dollar end of there product offerings,They must of hired some TRUE MODEL RAILROADERS to develop engineer these little switchers that actually care and have the talent to match,Hopefully they can match the detail and quality of there steam offerings with there Diesel offerings,THIS is a great step forward for them!
Jack
To Alco 1000, Jack, I just completed my modification based on your "sound idea". There is a noticeable improvement to the sound output. Thanks for for the tip. While I had this apart, I added an engineer and brakeman in the cab. - John
Well guys ,I mentioned this fix some time ago, but it didn't receive the response I expected. The hole enlargement brings the sound level up, but doesn't give the bass tones. After comparing the addition of a TSU 1000 in a RS3 I put sound into, I replaced the whole system with a TSU 750 and a small oval speaker like the one I used in the RS3. The small oval from Tony,s fits with a little sanding on the sides of the enclosure. The tricky part is to find room for the capacitor . I cantilevered it off the brass mounting strip I used for a heat sink. It sits just in front of the rear light bracket and drops to just clear the top of the gear tower. Cut out the top of the shell for a little clearance which you can not see. Fairly difficult , but well worth the effort. The oval speaker is about four to five times larger than the small round one used. Plenty of room for the modification with no machining required and have a full range decoder. Hope I can find a project for the removed decoder. This engine is a fantastic performer and deserves the largest speaker that will fit. Man does it sound good! Bill
These are the CV settings I use for the equalizer in the full version TSU. It helps with small speakers. Joe
153=7
154=200
155=200
157=175
158=150
159=225
160=255
I got these off the ModelRailroder forum. They were posted by Erik Fiske.
Quote from: blf on February 13, 2014, 02:54:15 AM
Well guys ,I mentioned this fix some time ago, but it didn't receive the response I expected. The hole enlargement brings the sound level up, but doesn't give the bass tones. After comparing the addition of a TSU 1000 in a RS3 I put sound into, I replaced the whole system with a TSU 750 and a small oval speaker like the one I used in the RS3. The small oval from Tony,s fits with a little sanding on the sides of the enclosure. The tricky part is to find room for the capacitor . I cantilevered it off the brass mounting strip I used for a heat sink. It sits just in front of the rear light bracket and drops to just clear the top of the gear tower. Cut out the top of the shell for a little clearance which you can not see. Fairly difficult , but well worth the effort. The oval speaker is about four to five times larger than the small round one used. Plenty of room for the modification with no machining required and have a full range decoder. Hope I can find a project for the removed decoder. This engine is a fantastic performer and deserves the largest speaker that will fit. Man does it sound good! Bill
I did the baffle adjustment on 2 of them running together at no dollar spent and man great sound together doing a little branch line service on the layout,also found a way to add some weight to it without hacking anything up clean pro job,4 oz each, with that said these will give other makers a run for there money,seen your old thread , but used that as a base to start with the trial and error thingy that improved upon I believe,but thanks for the inspiration ,
Jack
Thanks bapguy for the CV values. Called Soundtraxx some time ago with some low sound issues with some of the decoders I was installing and received the info from them on the CV's except for 154, but no values. Was wondering when we could get a site up to play around with the value issues others have found to sound good. Still haven't tackled my EM-1 yet to get the correct Baldwin whistle in it as the S2 was the first install, out of 81 projects, that had lights. Now the fear is gone. Bill
Quote from: DAVE2744 on February 11, 2014, 03:46:39 PM
Jack Alco1000, just finished your modification for the sound on the Alco S2. Worked great. Definitely enhanced the lower pitched sounds. I personally think the turbo is too strong, but other than changing the sound board I guess I'll live with it. I am guessing that blocking most of the shell and opening up the sound box, allows for a larger "echo" chamber. Anyway, thank you for sharing your experiment. Dave
[/quote
Yes I totally agree with the turbo,the horn is weak on mine ,funny how the prime mover can drown out the horn , kind of out of per-portion,they are 16 bit like a tsumani,I was thinking all the sound might be there like a full blown tsumani , but is locked out by some kind of a code or cv to unlock it ,cheaper to make them all the same and just shut stuff off rather than a whole new item,THEY carry the same cv s but a lot are missing on the sound ready Bachmann.Found one that was not listed on the sound ready dd40ax,but on the full blown tsumani the cv was there to turn up the volume for the radiator dynamic brake fan I TRIED IT and found another function that the sound ready dd40ax did not list it had! What else could be found?
Regards,
Jack
I have a questions regarding the original intent of this thread. How do I remove the shell of the S-2 (or S-4) for that matter without damaging it?
Have light hands and take the screws out of the bottom of the coupler boxes and slide the boxes with the flat blade of your pocket
screwdriver and slide the boxes out , wiggle the shell and pull it up evenly by the center of the hood!, it might hang up on one end or the
other ,but if it does DONT PULL!,PUT the shell back down so you can get it even and then try again Evenly!That is how it is done!If this don't work your doing something in the above steps Incorrectly!Good Luck!,Jack