Hello there,
I am about to buy my DCC system pretty soon here. Now I know that the Consolidation is DCC ready and there is space in the boiler to for the decoder but you have to compromise and remove a weight. I don't like this idea because it will affect the phenomenal pulling performance of the Consolidation.
So I was thinking that there is plenty of space in the tender for a sound decoder. I will have to reroute the wires but I am willing to do this.
Has anyone done this? Which sound decoder do you guys recommend?
Thank you
So far the best one, price-wise since I have no experience with any of this stuff is:
Soundtraxx LC090 N-Scale for $64.00
Quote from: Inder on October 01, 2007, 02:13:01 AM
Hello there,
I am about to buy my DCC system pretty soon here. Now I know that the Consolidation is DCC ready and there is space in the boiler to for the decoder but you have to compromise and remove a weight. I don't like this idea because it will affect the phenomenal pulling performance of the Consolidation.
So I was thinking that there is plenty of space in the tender for a sound decoder. I will have to reroute the wires but I am willing to do this.
Has anyone done this? Which sound decoder do you guys recommend?
Thank you
There may be room for a sound decoder in the tender
IF you can get it open without damaging it.
You will lose weight by removing the drop-in weight in the boiler, but not enough to get frantic about. The drop-in weight weighs 3.1grams with the plastic tray, and a DZ123 decoder weighs 1.9grams for a net loss of 1.2grams. IOW, not much difference.
Mike
BTW, a U.S. penny also weighs 3.1grams.
I don't know how to do open it without damaging it.
I found a website where it shows it's been done but they don't explain how to pry it open without damaging it.
On the bottom of the tender if you turn it over you can see a little plastic nipple possible what holds the two halfs together I'm thinking of drilling through that and see what happens.
Any suggestions with that?
Quote from: Inder on October 01, 2007, 02:27:26 PM
I don't know how to do open it without damaging it.
I found a website where it shows it's been done but they don't explain how to pry it open without damaging it.
On the bottom of the tender if you turn it over you can see a little plastic nipple possible what holds the two halfs together I'm thinking of drilling through that and see what happens.
Any suggestions with that?
Leave the bottom alone. That "nipple" you see is a remanant of the casting sprue. On the top, if you gently pry the sides of the coal bunker outward, you'll see that the whole top of the tender is an insert that fits into the sides and bottom. After that point, you're on your own.
Mike
The other day I just ran across this, maybe this will help:
- http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/b280n_dec_instal.htm
I read it over again, and looked at one of my spectrum 2-8-0's and it looks reasonable.
Have fun,
Charles
Thanks fieromike,
I followed your instructions and got it open safely.
Quote from: Inder on October 02, 2007, 11:24:38 PM
Thanks fieromike,
I followed your instructions and got it open safely.
I didn't realize that I was that helpful...
While you have the tender open, if you plan to use body mount M-T couplers, it would be a good idea to cement a styrene pad inside the body, above the coupler location. That part of the floor doesn't have much meat for screw threads, and can use all the help it can get.
Mike
Inder,
Since you have your tender apart does it look like either method would work the same to get the tender open?
I hate prying things apart, many times it does not turn out well for me (well for the train anyway).
Thanks,
Charles
Well I opened two of them.
The first one all I had to do was unscrew the couplers because they're actually attached to the top of the tender. Then remove the rear ladder or just push it out of the way - it's quite flexible.
Then you grab something skinny and push through the rear hole to push the top off.
The second one however wouldn't unhook from the front section so I drilled a hole on the bottom right in the middle where the little nipple is and pushed it through with a thin screw driver. You won't damage anything this way because you're actually pushing against the lead weight.
I like the second method the best because even though you have to drill a hole it is really easy.
Thanks!
Charles
No problem Charles.
Will you be adding a sound decoder as well?
I haven't worked out how I'm gonna run the six wires on the locomotive back and out to the tender. I think through the top of the engine will be the best choice but I'm afraid more cutting will be involved.
I haven't decided which sound decoder to go but so far I've looked at two that are priced at $63.00. I also need to get a DCC system.
Nonetheless, I will be purchasing the sound decoder next week and routing the cables.
If anyone has done this will you please post it here for the rest of us.
Thank you.
Routing the wires out to the tender for a sound decoder.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/enderello/a.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/enderello/b.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/enderello/c.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/enderello/d.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/enderello/e.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/enderello/f.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/enderello/g.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y49/enderello/h.jpg)
Inder,
Nice work, really good photo documentation and notes, thanks. If you can pick up track power in the tender you can avoid two wires between the tender and loco, since the loco and tender already have power pickup through the draw bar.
Looks like the 2-8-0 ought to be a good experiment for starting DCC and sound.
Anyone else out there already put one of the sound decoders in the 2-8-0? Which one did you use?
Thanks,
Charles
Thanks Charles,
I figured since you're already running 4 other wires why not run an additional two for power pick-up.
I figure the more the merrier.
Quote from: Inder on October 07, 2007, 12:12:54 PM
Thanks Charles,
I figured since you're already running 4 other wires why not run an additional two for power pick-up.
I figure the more the merrier.
Since the 2-8-0's tender and the loco are electrically connected through the drawbar, you only really need 3 wires from the tender to the engine; grey and orange for the motor, and white for the headlight. The blue wire on the headlight
board should hook to one side of the loco frame, and the blue wire on the decoder is taped off and not used.
Mike
Thanks for the info Fieromike.
That's good to know considering I have about 12 consolidations I need to rewire.