One goal, I've been working on slowly, is to have enough scale lighting on my layout so I can turn off the room lights and watch the layout run... oh, and still be able to see the action.
This is turning out to be a loooong-term project, working on little bits and pieces at a time. I know I have over 100 lamps and LEDs around the layout now, but it looks like it will take hundreds more.
Anyway, this is the head of one of my yards. Using LEDs, resistors and scratchbuilt streetlamps, I'm starting to see progress in this area.
First is a shot, using flash, so one can see the contents of the scene:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN4394_zpsf8908fb0.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN4394_zpsf8908fb0.jpg.html)
Now a series of shots, looking at the scene using only the layout lights:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN4384_zpsdb7f0d78.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN4384_zpsdb7f0d78.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN4388_zps191f3210.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN4388_zps191f3210.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN4400_01_zps37572989.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN4400_01_zps37572989.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN4393_zps65328e91.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN4393_zps65328e91.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN4399_01_zps65474ab1.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN4399_01_zps65474ab1.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN4397_zps87fc40b1.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN4397_zps87fc40b1.jpg.html)
I had a tough time getting the camera to focus under these dark conditions. One day I will get permission to get a fancy DSLR from she who must be obeyed. :)
The lamps consist of 0603 SMDs, magnet wire, 1K ohm resistor, 1/16" aluminum tubing, and brass lamp shades. My homemade lampshades just weren't cutting it, so I broke down and got the premade shades.
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan-
Handsome work, as always. I envy your talents.
Lighting is a bigger part of the model environment than most people realize. I am by no means an expert, but I think there are two things which sell the product: ambient light and diverse local/detail lighting.
It's probably not possible to supply all lighting with on layout lights. But that's okay because that's how it works in the real world, too. There's a lot of light in the world even on the darkest night. To me, that's kind of like a basic well-made model. It let's you see what's going on but we need highlighting and weathering to lend our models their verisimilitude. With lighting, weathering is done by having different kinds of light -- e.g., incandescent, fluorescent, various LED shades -- coming from different angles, in various intensities and with different levels of release from the sources. So a little light leaks out from a bedroom window where somebody fell asleep while reading, the downtown district is brightly illuminated with flashing, animated lights even after everybody goes home, and neighborhoods have a low glow punctuated by porch lights and the vehicles which carry late night workers or people called out due to a crisis, large or small. Animate some of that and maybe throw in a few localized background sounds and, all of a sudden, it almost seems like our tiny figures are moving a little bit.
-- D
Thanks, Doneldon. I get your point. I agree it's not possible to put all the prototypical lights on a layout. In reality, each structure could have potentially dozens of lights, if you work up the interior. Still... it would be nice to have enough layout lighting to get that realistic nighttime feel.
BTW, I had to look up "verisimilitude". Cant' wait for an excuse to use is in a sentence. :)
Thanks, again.
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathon - I have a DSLR and its still a bit hard to get it to focus in the dark, and you gotta be real steady while snapin the shot or it will be all blurry.
Quote from: BaltoOhioRRfan on July 26, 2014, 10:55:43 AM
Jonathon - I have a DSLR and its still a bit hard to get it to focus in the dark, and you gotta be real steady while snapin the shot or it will be all blurry.
Using a tripod and the camera's timer will solve any instability issues.
Sid
Quote from: WoundedBear on July 26, 2014, 08:47:10 PM
Quote from: BaltoOhioRRfan on July 26, 2014, 10:55:43 AM
Jonathon - I have a DSLR and its still a bit hard to get it to focus in the dark, and you gotta be real steady while snapin the shot or it will be all blurry.
Using a tripod and the camera's timer will solve any instability issues.
Sid
Yeah I've been using it a lot when takin photos of my trains. Works wonders
I just had to comment on your lighting project Jonathan. When I opened your thread my mouth fell open...wow!!! Lighting takes a layout to the next level - and adds untold interest to the scene. Don's input on 'weathering with lighting' was amazing as well...never thought of it that way Don.
As part of the building of the [new] Monks Island Railway 2.0, I intend to add a lighting component. Basic layout ambient lighting will be done with blue LED strip lighting for nighttime scenes and daylight/warm LED strips for daytime (I am still trying to find this stuff...yes, Micro Mark sells a similar product that is a bit too rich for my pocketbook. One of my UK pen pals procures his at a local English box store during the holidays for a low price...haven't found any in the States as of yet). All structures will have lighting (internal or extrenal...or both); but lacking your patience Jon I will buy wall lighting kits from N-gineering...not that they are a 'walk in the park' to build.
On several of the scrapbook pages on Carl Arendt's website there was an Australian chap who built a layout called "Brooklyn 3:00 AM" that was absolutely amazing (he even had sound effects). [Note: I tried to give a link to his article. It is featured in several scrapbook pages (#74 as one); but the original embedded video segment has been removed.] In the June 2013 issue of the Hornby Magazine is an article on a layout called the Stratton St. George. The lead photograph is of a nighttime view that looks amazingly read. [BTW: I subscribe to Railway Modelling, and occasionally purchase the Hornby Magazine to garner ideas from our English comrades...these folks can really do model railroading!] Again, being able to 'move' your layout into the night hours puts a very different 'spin' on your work.
It is indeed odd that there is so little 'exposure', in the hobby press, on nighttime model railroad operations. Even in the 19th century, railroads did not stop at sunset...something to think about. Thanks to Jon and Don ('sounds like a singing group) for their input.
Regards,
Ray
Beautiful as always Jonathan, Your work always Impresses me.
Ray, I do not know if this is what you mean but I seem to recall Target having strips of orange or blue LED's in plastic tubing that could be strung together in series during the holiday season. I happen to posses a few that was used for our Sukkah and they were only five bucks a pop, 6-10 feet long I think, since we bought them after Christmas, when all goes on sale.
Jonathan,
I give up! I think I will send you my layout and when your done send it back ;D.
WOW you just take it to another level each time you post.
Jerry
He sure does, you know, I wasn't posting under Irbricksceo the time but I remember when he first joined. now, years later, he's one of the most frequent and talented modelers to post here, every project being astounding. I respect you Jonathan!
ray,
regarding nighttime railroading in the hobby press.....
you have to remember that the primary emphasis is on getting that perfect sunlit shot you can brag to all your buddies about, and that the magazines will print. night time does not photograph well.
i know firsthand how interesting middle of the night railroading can be, i've done enough of it. with light levels too low to take photos, the experience becomes much more one of atmosphere. the sounds of a night train winding its way through the mountains, miles away slowly working its way towards you cannot be adequately described in print. it must be experienced.
Irv, thanks for the 'heads up' on those LED lights. The only thing I have seen (and that was around the holidays) was LED
rope lights...not LED strip lights [Confused?..check out Micro Mark's range online or in one of their [weekly] catalogs.]. At this point, I would settle for either. I will be sure to check out Target in the near future - and keep a watchful eye during the holiday season. I just know that someone must sell LED strip lights and need to do a more thorough Internet check (heck, if they are available in the UK, they should be available here...as they all come from China).
Hold the 'phone...I just found the product at Amazon (is there anything that Amazon doesn't sell?). They can be seen at
http://www.amazon.com/Lighting-EVER-Lampux-Flexible-Non-waterproof/dp/B00HSF64JG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406496794&sr=8-2&keywords=3528+led+strip+light (http://www.amazon.com/Lighting-EVER-Lampux-Flexible-Non-waterproof/dp/B00HSF64JG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406496794&sr=8-2&keywords=3528+led+strip+light)
Weirdly, the ad doesn't tall how long each 'tape' is (at ~$7.95/roll I will order a couple rolls when the time comes). Additionally there is no indication of the 'temperature' of the light produced. I quess I'd use a couple warm white strips (for daylight viewing) and one blue (for nighttime). You can even get a dimmer for these strips AND they can be cut every 3 LEDs. Like I said: Very affordable.
I spent the afternoon installing some Blue Point turnout controllers on the new Monks Island Railway. For most of the time I was working, I was thinking about Jonathan's night scene. There is still a lot of work to be done on the layout; but I am definitely planning on installing a plethora of LED lighting. [Am I becoming a Jonathan wanna-be?]
Take care everyone,
Ray
Quote from: CNE Runner on July 27, 2014, 05:32:13 PM
[Am I becoming a Jonathan wanna-be?]
Take care everyone,
Ray
To an extent, I think we all are!
Gents,
As always, you have been too kind. I think the photos make my layout look better than it really is. Don't know why. All these little scenic experiments are techniques I've picked up while serving as a member of this forum. I've seen Ray move heaven and earth to get his turnouts to work perfectly. I could never accomplish the work done on those double slip switches.
I've been trying all the techniques most of you have discussed over the years. I'm just a guy obsessed with model trains. Spent 40 years dreaming of building a layout. Now I'm going at it like there's no tomorrow.
Thanks again for the kind words.
Regards,
Jonathan
i can't wait to see how you come up with lighted switch stands
Quote from: CNE Runner on July 27, 2014, 10:48:09 AM
I intend to add a lighting component. Basic layout ambient lighting will be done with blue LED strip lighting for nighttime scenes and daylight/warm LED strips for daytime (I am still trying to find this stuff...yes, Micro Mark sells a similar product that is a bit too rich for my pocketbook. One of my UK pen pals procures his at a local English box store during the holidays for a low price...haven't found any in the States as of yet).
Ray-
In my experience, the Xmas lights are mostly mini incandescent bulbs. They work just fine and last a long time since they are permanently installed and aren't putzed with. They can be put on a rheostat which is nice. However, there are blue LED strips on eBay all of the time. I just checked. There are thousands of listings. One I noticed has 600 LEDs in a 5 meter (~6.5 feet) strip for $10 and free shipping.
-- D
Thanks for the return Don. Yes, I am aware of the fact that many cheaper Xmas lights are mini incandescents (as are most rope lights). I definitely do not want to use incandescent bulbs on my layout (relatively short lifespan and too much heat). LEDs are the way to go (extremely long lived, and virtually no heat production).
Your post also helped me with one important item: the length of those LED strip lights. I know they come in varying lengths, but Amazon didn't mention the length of theirs in any part of the ad (just that they had X amount of LEDs). The ones you found, on eBay, at 5 meters, are exactly the length I need for each module. Let me express my sincere thanks for the information. I was about to mention that, as an Amazon Prime member, we usually don't pay shipping costs...then you mentioned that the eBay items are shipped free. This sounds like an excellent deal.
When I get around to building the 'light boxes' (structures that are composed of 2-side walls, a back and a top - all out of Styrofoam that sit on top of the train board), I will be ordering said strip lights. Funny, I rarely visit the Bachmann forum anymore...yet I received some extremely valuable (and time-saving) information.
Jon, if your layout photographs better than it looks in real life; I am inviting you to the Heart of Dixie to photograph mine.
All the best,
Ray
Ward;
Try messing around with optic fibres for switch stands. Story I have been told by those who know are [that] the yard men had the task of lighting and maintaining oil level in, the switch stands. I figure this was a rather tedious job. I remember when I was a kid, the construction sites had these black "bomb" looking affairs that were filled with kerosene-and left as markers to the way for drivers to negotiate. This was in the day when the idiot factor was much, much lower, but I digress...
I assume one could run a fibre up and into the drilled-out portion of the light head, install jewels and be done with it. I've done it with classification lamps, but not switch stands.
On my last "layout", I monkeyed around with blue rope lighting in behind a backdrop, so as to radiate light up over the drop, whatever it was, thus suggesting nocturnal activity. I got the idea from one of MR's DVDs. I liked it.
Rich C.
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on July 28, 2014, 12:10:11 PM
Ward;
Try messing around with optic fibres for switch stands. Story I have been told by those who know are [that] the yard men had the task of lighting and maintaining oil level in, the switch stands. I figure this was a rather tedious job. I remember when I was a kid, the construction sites had these black "bomb" looking affairs that were filled with kerosene-and left as markers to the way for drivers to negotiate. This was in the day when the idiot factor was much, much lower, but I digress...
I assume one could run a fibre up and into the drilled-out portion of the light head, install jewels and be done with it. I've done it with classification lamps, but not switch stands.
On my last "layout", I monkeyed around with blue rope lighting in behind a backdrop, so as to radiate light up over the drop, whatever it was, thus suggesting nocturnal activity. I got the idea from one of MR's DVDs. I liked it.
Rich C.
The issue with working lights on switch stand is you require two colours.
Switch stands on the running lines, i.e. main tracks and sidings, displayed red and green targets. Green when lined for the through route and red when lined for the diverging route.
Switch stands on non running lines, i.e. yard tracks, displayed yellow and green targets. Green when lined for the through route and yellow when lined for the diverging route.
May be possible in 'G' scale but I doubt it's possible in the smaller scales but I'd like to be proved wrong.
Cheers
Roger T.
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on July 28, 2014, 12:10:11 PM
Ward;
Try messing around with optic fibres for switch stands. Story I have been told by those who know are [that] the yard men had the task of lighting and maintaining oil level in, the switch stands. I figure this was a rather tedious job. I remember when I was a kid, the construction sites had these black "bomb" looking affairs that were filled with kerosene-and left as markers to the way for drivers to negotiate. This was in the day when the idiot factor was much, much lower, but I digress...
I assume one could run a fibre up and into the drilled-out portion of the light head, install jewels and be done with it. I've done it with classification lamps, but not switch stands.
On my last "layout", I monkeyed around with blue rope lighting in behind a backdrop, so as to radiate light up over the drop, whatever it was, thus suggesting nocturnal activity. I got the idea from one of MR's DVDs. I liked it.
Rich C.
the ones i remember used 9 volt lantern batteries and had a light bulb in them, probably the same low voltage bulbs used in signals. it seems to me the big problem in lighted switchstands is finding something that won't wear out with the constant twisting when the switch is thrown.
Quote from: rogertra on July 28, 2014, 12:20:51 PM
The issue with working lights on switch stand is you require two colours.
Roger-
There are bicolor LEDs which are red when the power flows through one way and green when
the power flows the other way. This would seem to be ideal for switch stands and control panel
or tack diagram indicators.
-- D
Quote from: Doneldon on July 28, 2014, 04:09:33 PM
Quote from: rogertra on July 28, 2014, 12:20:51 PM
The issue with working lights on switch stand is you require two colours.
Roger-
There are bicolor LEDs which are red when the power flows through one way and green when
the power flows the other way. This would seem to be ideal for switch stands and control panel
or tack diagram indicators.
-- D
This is true but it would be nice if both colours could be lit at all time. The red and green on running line switches and yellow and green on yard switches.
Cheers
Roger T.
Great looking photos as usual, Jonathan!
"Try messing around with optic fibres for switch stands. Story I have been told by those who know are [that] the yard men had the task of lighting and maintaining oil level in, the switch stands. I figure this was a rather tedious job. I remember when I was a kid, the construction sites had these black "bomb" looking affairs that were filled with kerosene-and left as markers to the way for drivers to negotiate. This was in the day when the idiot factor was much, much lower, but I digress...
"I assume one could run a fibre up and into the drilled-out portion of the light head, install jewels and be done with it. I've done it with classification lamps, but not switch stands."--Electrical Whiz Kid.
I well remember those kerosene "fire balls." Black, oily, sooty, and smokey, and compared with modern lights, quite dim.
Don't assume the idiot factor was necessarily lower "back in the goodle days." A friend of mine told me how he and his high school buddies thought it would be fun to make off with one of those lights. They picked the thing up, still lit, and put it on the floor of their car. Well, it didn't take long before the motion of the car started the ball to rolling around, spilling the kerosene and starting a fire in the car! In a panic, the guys got the ball out and set it on the street, and then got busy putting out the fire in the car. The street had a considerable slope--this was in West Virginia--and now the still-lit ball started to roll down the street, spilling more kerosene and leaving a trail of fire. My friend did mention it was interesting watching other auto drivers take evasive action to avoid the rolling fire ball!
Between this and other things he did, I wonder why he is still alive, but he is.
I like the idea of the optic fibre cable providing light to a rotating lantern, very likely through a hollow shaft on which the lantern would rotate, the optic cable or rod being stationary inside the rotating shaft. I agree, the big problem, besides getting something small enough, is coming up with a way to get light or power into a light that rotates back and forth, eventually causing a fatigue break in something like a wire.
Some pix of those kerosene "fire balls:"
http://img1.etsystatic.com/021/0/6678482/il_570xN.496736313_29r2.jpg
http://www.funchase.com/Images/BitsAndPieces/SandLotsAndSmudgePots.htm
http://www.pinterest.com/pin/353251164493671854/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62fRQg3HgPA
The fun stuff you can find on the internet:
http://www.metafilter.com/93521/Holy-Toledo-Torches
http://www.flickr.com/photos/iowahawk_blog/3071110167/
http://www.premiereproducts.biz/products/toledotorch.php
Wonder how big a job it would be to come up with some of these for a period construction scene? They are small enough that I would definitely go with fibre optic for lighting.
I actually don't think keeping wires from breaking when the lamp rotates would bee all that difficult, ad I agree that a single lamp behind different gem lenses would work. I'd think that you could just use thin wire through the post, give it a little slack below to allow movement (it doesn't have to move far remember, yes it's twisting 90 degrees but It's also doing so in a tiny circle) As long as you get a decent solder joint, should be fine.
The biggest Issue, I would think, is how to get it to turn when the switch is thrown, that,I have no idea how to do.
Actually, there are commercial switch stands by other manufacturers that do have lanterns (unlit) and targets that do turn. All you have to do is mount them with an appropriate linkage. You would likely have to modify the stand (substitute a very tiny tube for the wire used for the support of the lamp and target), and drill out the lamp itself to get either wires or the optic fibre into the lamp.
If you have a hollow light and can put lenses in it, then there might be very small LEDs you could use. Jonathan has done this for some of his locomotive headlights, and some of those things are tiny! I don't know how he sees well enough to work with them (he has mentioned using a magnifier--maybe something for me to buy).
This thread continues to hold my interest and is extremely helpful for some future projects.
Regarding small wires: Many of the smaller light fixtures, intended for HO structures, use magnet wire. This is extremely thin wire that probably could be threaded into those switch stand lamps. If it had to be exposed, it is (as already mentioned) very thin and could be painted to blend into the stand. Rather than having to deal with dual colored LEDs, I think I would follow J3a's idea of keeping the colored gels/gems already installed in the lamp and illuminate it with a mini LED...while not purely prototypical it does align with the K.I.S.S. Principle.
The 90-degree arc that the lamp turns would not cause a problem with the wire as it actually moves very little. If it is of concern, one could use 2 washers, separated by a fiber washer, such that one washer was + and the other -. Phosphor-bronze power pick ups (from Tomar) could be used to transfer electrical current from the washers to the LED. I do feel that such complexity would be unnecessary.
Bi-colored LEDs work by reversing the polarity of the incoming circuit. To change the color of the LED, I would use turnouts with 'live' frogs. In that way when the turnout controller is activated (controllers contain a DPDT internal switch...think Blue Point or Tortoise), the polarity of the frog is changed and thus the polarity of the feed wire current to the lamp. Just a suggestion.
Good thread and some clever ideas.
Ray
Well,
Folks are certainly getting the creative juices flowing in me! I have never considered trying to light a switch stand, or even modeling a switch stand for that matter. Sounds like a potential future project.
The Surface Mount LEDs (SMDs) that I use are indeed tiny. I liken them to a half-grain of uncooked rice--small, uncooked rice. I wear magnifying lenses AND a magnifying glass to solder them to magnet wire. Under magnification, the soldering iron looks like a piece of pointed rebar. A very steady hand is required. I'm soldering as many SMDs as I can, now, before my dexterity and eyesight get too bad to work with such tiny things. Believe me, craftsman kits (rolling stock) are easier than wiring up these lights.
I am quickly approaching the senior menu at IHOP and Cracker Barrel. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
I remember those things from when I was a kid. They burned with a yellow flame and were very smokey.
In those days, the county shop saved drain oil and spread it on the gravel streets in town to keep the dust down. My mother hated it because it would get tracked into the house. I suspect that was what fueled the pots, too.
I thought they looked like the bomb in old pictures of the Haymarket Riot.
Nobody seemed to be concerned with pollution back then, least of all the Government.
Les
They were commonly referred to as "smudge pots".
Quote from: Irbricksceo on July 29, 2014, 04:16:14 AM
The biggest Issue, I would think, is how to get it to turn when the switch is thrown, that,I have no idea how to do.
Irbrick-
I'm not so sure that actually moving the lantern can be done in a scale as small as HO, particularly if the expectation is that the mechanism will operate long-term without frequent maintenance or rebuilding. It would even be a challenge in O or large scale. But there is a good alternative: changing the color of the light, not the position of the marker.
Enlarge the inside of the lantern as much as possible. Then put a thin piece of brass diagonally across the lantern. Using two bi-color LEDs, cross wired with the switch machine outputs, run two fine light cables into each half of the lantern cavity. This will let the different sides of the lantern alternately show red or green. If the light carrying fibers are painted black so light only escapes from the part of the cable next to the lantern's lenses, you can keep the whole lantern from glowing when illuminating. This would likely be necessary since the lantern walls will be very thin after their cavities are enlarged.
-- D
Les, when I was a young college student I worked for the Dutchess County (NY) Highway Department each summer. [Of course that was 'way before I retired to Alabama and became a 'recovering yankee'.] Anyway, a rainy day job (better known as busy work) was to go out to the Lamp House and fill the seemingly endless number of warning lamps...or 'pots' as we called them. One had to check the condition (and length) of the wick as well as filling up the reservoir. We had a large, rotary hand-pumped tank filled with kerosene...which was dispensed into spouted cans (much like the oil cans one sees used for lubricating steam locomotives). I can tell you, from personal experience, this was a very dirty (soot) and very smelly job.
JBrock, My father was an apple farmer during the late 1940s through the early 1960s. We used 'smudge pots' on those early spring nights when the temperatures would get low enough to possibly damage the apple blossoms. Smudge pots (or at least agricultural ones) were much larger than the highway warning 'pots' - and held more kerosene as the flame was much larger. It was beautiful (to a kid) to see all those twinkling lights in the orchards at night. My father watched his meager profit go up in smoke (and flame).
Jon - I turn 70 this coming February and I feel your pain. I am having more and more trouble seeing those tiny screws and detail pieces. That is one reason why the rebuilt Monks Island Railway (or as I like to put it: M.I.Ry 2.0) will be my last layout. I want this edition to be a defining moment in my 55+ year involvement in the hobby...it has been a great run though.
Cheers,
Ray
Ray-
We had some friends/shirttail relatives years ago who owned an orange orchard in the San Gabriel Valley, about 25 east of L.A. They used smudge pots on cold, windless nights. The choking guck would lay over the orchards (these were BIG trees) like a blanket and let the ground heat protect the blooms and fruit, depending on the time of year. If the wind was blowing, they climbed their windmill and connected their hose to a water cannon on top. Then they sprayed the whole orchard. The water was warmer than freezing, to begin with, and it would protect the fruit if it froze because the inside of the ice cocoon was no lower than 32o which wouldn't harm the fruit. I don't recall if they could spray in the early spring to protect the flowers but I know they sprayed to protect flower buds and the tiny oranges which began developing as soon as the gametes got together.
Lots of people don't believe these stories, especially that they occurred in Southern California. But I saw these things for myself as a youngster. We lived just a few miles from them for a couple of years so I had an opportunity to see how they managed their orchard year 'round, not just when we were there for the summer. Actually, they had moved to the City of Industry by the second time we lived out there, but they had a lemon grove at that property which had smudge pots and the water cannon.
What do you suppose the EPA would say about those smudge pots today?
-- D
Ray, I did not know you were a recovering NYer?!
The very first time I glimpsed a smudge pot was when we lived in Brooklyn. It warned of some huge pot hole in the road/street. If I remember right, the hole was big and deep enough to swallow a Volkswagon Beetle.
You bring up a good point about the EPA Doc. Do you think that might be why we don't see them anymore, or due to a matter of practicality?
Quote from: jbrock27 on July 30, 2014, 10:26:55 AM
Ray, I did not know you were a recovering NYer?!
The very first time I glimpsed a smudge pot was when we lived in Brooklyn. It warned of some huge pot hole in the road/street. If I remember right, the hole was big and deep enough to swallow a Volkswagon Beetle.
You bring up a good point about the EPA Doc. Do you think that might be why we don't see them anymore, or due to a matter of practicality?
We don't see them any more because they've been replaced by flashing battery powered lights, some with solar panels attached, that are less maintenance as they turn themselves on and off automatically via light sensors and are far easier to see at night.
Cheers.
Roger T.
Funny that you mention them In Brooklyn, when we lived in New Jersey five years ago, I visited a small junk shop over in Hackensack, There was all kinds of old Railroad Equipment that had wound up there, one item, as I recall, was an old lantern similar to what you are talking about.
The Railroads in the Northeast always impressed me (hence why I model the tristate) And the sheer scale of Hoboken Terminal, not to mention the old tracks of the Erie Lackawanna from when it was at it's peak, really do go though some scenic areas!
Sorry, Got on a tangent there, but It's true, a few of those lanterns do float around, though obviously long since removed from service. Interestingly, We've also found those old green glass telegraph pole covers and of course spike that were just lying at the side of the tracks. It's amazing what kind of Railroad Equipment is out there!
Thanks Roger. Sounds like practicality won out.
Brick, I used to spend a good deal of time in Hackensack bc of family there. So it is quite likely I saw the smudge pots in action there as well, probably marking flooded streets/roads.
One thing I had said had referred to jewels at the head. Optic fibres are designed to conduct light. What this means is that if you hollow out the head of a switch stand enough (carefully...) you could conceivably insert two different coloured jewels, negating the need for wiring (one conductor-foc) conductors or LEDs at the top. If you can generate enough light at the other (feed) end (presumably under the layout), then the photonic impulses will carry up the fibre to the end (which has been processed to gather and concentrate the light-this is done by "bulbing"-heating the fibre and then polishing the head) I guess from here most of you can get where this goes. I think it is an excellent thought and sometime in the not-too-distant future... I watched them insert two stents into two arteries via my wrist not too long ago...
Rich C.
I remember seeing those smudge pots in use back in the 1950 's and 1960 's . I doubt the EPA would allow their use today and do remember that they had been known to explode from time to time . With the current legal climate and the amount of distracted drivers on the road an open flame anywhere near a road surface is an open invitation to endless litigation . The battery operated devices with light sensors are a lot safer and more noticeable . John2.
getting back to the switchstands, the kerosene ones were modified or replaced by battery powered ones, which were later themselves replaced by reflectorized targets. why? i suspect maintenance costs were more of a factor than the epa. as i recall on the b&o they were all battery powered in my area by the 1970s, so they were probably repaced before the epa. changing out batteries, while still labour intensive, would have been alot less costly and time consuming than running around filling and lighting lanterns. another factor may have been heat affecting the lenses. i suspect the heat would have made the lenses much more prone to cracking, a problem switching to low wattage light bulbs would have minimized. as i recall, signal bulbs were less than 10 watts, not alot of heat generated with those.
What seems like a million years ago, I (and my good friend at the time) used to hang out at the Hopewell Junction, NY yards [New Haven owned] while my dad earned a couple of bucks unloading lumber from rail cars. We became very familiar with those old kerosene-burning signal lamps as we used to follow the guy refilling them. He was a really nice fellow - and would often let us refill the reservoirs...while he took a smoke break (this guy was no dummy). Anyway, the glass inserts (bulls eyes) were made of very thick glass in a Fresnel lens type of pattern ('could be wrong, but I remember green and yellow lenses).
One day our railroad 'buddy' was accompanied by several other workmen - who were in the process of replacing those old lanterns with reflecting indicators. Knowing how we loved to 'help' fill those old lanterns, he took us to their truck and gave us one! I had that lantern hanging in my bedroom for years...I wonder what ever happened to it?
I have been putting some thought to illuminating an HO switch stand lamp (when you are retired there is a lot of time for thinkin'). [For the purposes of this discussion, I am referring to a 'low boy' lamp and not the high ones.] I think I would opt to hollow out the lamp base and attach it to some fine brass tubing (very small diameter). Using magnet wire, I would run a wire to a bi-colored LED. Yes, all faces of the lamp would show green or red (or whatever), but that is about as close to protypical as one can get. Of course Lionel solved the problem years ago with their #022 illuminated switches. Do you remember how hot those little signal lamps became?
Ray
PS: How do you northern retired guys afford the taxes? We own a 2,400 sq. fit home (birck) on ~ 1 acre with full city services. Our total tax bill is $460/year. Y'all must know something I don't.
Ugh, taxes! Don't get me started. Don't know anyone who likes paying taxes. I am envious. Don't know what we all know that y'all don't, except for the hopeful consolation of higher taxes translating to better services, infrastructure and school systems.
Re: Lionel #022 illuminated switches, I am not familiar with them, only having 1 Lionel item: an HO triple dome tank car.
As I noted, there are commercial switch stands with rotating targets by other companies, mostly small ones that specialize in detail parts. Here is what Walthers has listed, both operating and non-operating.:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/search?category=Track&scale=H&manu=&item=&keywords=Switch+stand&words=restrict&instock=Q&split=30&Submit=Search
One thing that stands out about these things is that they will be rather fragile. I don't think you would want to use the normal twin-coil solenoid switch machine (i.e., Bachmann or Atlas) with one of these! At the same time, powered switches in the prototype world rarely had lights on them; they were usually part of an interlocking plant, and the trackside signals would rule in that application.
Switches with lamps and targets like this would be in the realm of hand-thrown iron, not normally on a heavily trafficked main line, except perhaps leading to a spur.
Some prototype switch lamps.
http://www.brasstrains.com/classic/Product/Detail/048376/Switch-Stand-Lamp-Handlan-Kerosene
http://www.brasstrains.com/Classic/Product/Detail/043411/Switch-Stand-Lantern-Handlan-Electrified
Here's what one fellow did in O scale; could this be matched in HO, in effect if not technique?
http://oscalemag.com/wordpress/working-lighted-switch-stands/
A thought--I have a feeling these lamps shouldn't be too bright. They are only using a kerosene flame for illumination. In that respect, along with an economy in bulbs, I think the fibre optic light tube would be a good application to light a switch stand in HO.
Coal Mine:
Pay not attention to any cobwebs that may appear. :)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4412_zps06501915.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4412_zps06501915.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4414_zpsc2d1aa75.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4414_zpsc2d1aa75.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4406_zpsc94573e7.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4406_zpsc94573e7.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4401_zpsb6c92d83.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4401_zpsb6c92d83.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4409_zpsf69d1d92.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4409_zpsf69d1d92.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4410_zpsf960ba74.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4410_zpsf960ba74.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4408_zps38acaf86.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Larger%20Layout%20Photos/DSCN4408_zps38acaf86.jpg.html)
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan;
I very much like your last photos. I have the same effect on my coaling tower (the old Cedar Hill facility at New haven-which, incidentally, is on the national lists of old buildings-neat, huh?).
I used the golden LEDs placed strategically in, under, and around, the structure. I have also placed speaker under the structure-screen wire between it and the speaker. two different sound cards-one loading, and one of a "drifting" steam engine. Sometimes, I feel like I have watched two many episodes of "Mr. Science".
Rich C.
I've been out of town for several days and haven't a chance to check my favorite website. I love the way this post has grown. But I would like to see some discussion on wiring and power supply. You guys are getting me motivated to give this a try.
Thanks, Bill
I use 9v wall warts, leftover from some unused toy, clock, whatever. Then just attach an appropriate sized wire (20 gage perhaps?) to create a bus feed.
For these tiny lamps, I run 30 gage magnet wire through 1/16" aluminum tubing. The tubing is a mite thick for prototypical lampstands/lampposts, but I don't fret the small stuff.
For the Surface Mount LEDs (SMDs), each unit gets its own 1k ohm resistor wired on the negative side.
When I use standard 3mm LEDs, I wire three in series with a 330 ohm resistor on the negative side. That's about it.
I'm sure I've mentioned this before, but I can't remember how long ago. Here's a few shots of turning aluminum tubing into lampposts:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3302_zps2d3946fe.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3302_zps2d3946fe.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3314_zpsf4b9eb01.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3314_zpsf4b9eb01.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3313_zpsd9e10e7e.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3313_zpsd9e10e7e.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3310_zpsd1153bca.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3310_zpsd1153bca.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3400_zpsa912ab9f.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3400_zpsa912ab9f.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN3394_zps09685598.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN3394_zps09685598.jpg.html)
Regards,
Jonathan
Bill B-
I have a ton of old wall warts which I use to power lights and other accessories. I run LEDs on their own low voltage circuits,
"fluorescent" signs on 4.5 volt lines and incandescent lights on 12 volts. I plug all of the wall warts into two power strips
so I can efficiently power everything up and down. How many wall warts and power strips you'll need are a function of the
capacities of the wall warts, the length of the power busses and how many lights and accessories of different voltages you
have. I do sometimes mix voltages to save wiring effort, like adding an LED and a 1K Ohm resistor to a 12 volt circuit. It's
really easy to do but I always find that it helps to sketch things out first. If nothing else, I find ways to economize on materials.
-- D
Thanks guys for the clues. My first and only attempt at night lighting was about 10 years ago and I connected 4 miniature lights to my AC terminals. Ahhh, the acrid smoke of failure! I'll print out your notes and add them to my book.
Thanks again, Bill
Quote from: Bill Baker on August 05, 2014, 11:15:20 AM
Thanks guys for the clues. My first and only attempt at night lighting was about 10 years ago and I connected 4 miniature lights to my AC terminals. Ahhh, the acrid smoke of failure! I'll print out your notes and add them to my book.
Thanks again, Bill
Bill-
My guess is that you had some 1.5-, 3- or 6-volt bulbs in the circuit connected to the fixed (probably 12-14 volts) AC on your power pack. That would explain why your lights flashed out.
You have to match the supply voltage to the operating voltage of the bulb, motor or whatever it is to power. Most things will do just fine on somewhat lower voltage than they were designed for. (Some folks argue that will damage certain items like motors but I've not seen that.) Electrical appliances do not, however, operate well when fed an overvoltage. Lights, in particular, suffer greatly. Their lives will be shortened considerably, even to the point of an instant burn out if the overvoltage is more than a few percent. This is why your car's dashboard lights will last forever if you turn them down just a little but will need frequent replacement if you run them on max.
I hope this helps.
-- D
Bill-
My guess is that you had some 1.5-, 3- or 6-volt bulbs in the circuit connected to the fixed (probably 12-14 volts) AC on your power pack.
No guessing required. Bill stated that he did just that.
Quote from: jbrock27 on August 06, 2014, 06:24:47 AM
No guessing required. Bill stated that he did just that.
Jim-
Where?
-- D
By Bill Baker:
My first and only attempt at night lighting was about 10 years ago and I connected 4 miniature lights to my AC terminals.
If you are using lamps (Some people incorrectly call them "bulbs" ;) ), to increase their life span and to also lower their brightness, you can wire them in series-parallel.
Cheers
Roger T.
I have always understood wiring in series and wiring in parallel to be different from each other Roger. Is what you are saying, is that you can wire them one way or the other and that either way, will prolong the lifespan of the lamp/bulb?
series parallel means you wire two or more in series, then another group of two or more in parallel to the first group, etc.
Best ASCII art explanation of series-parallel: -
____________________ Parallel
I I
O O
I I Series
O O
________I_________I_____ Parallel
Cheers
Roger T.
Thank you for helping me learn something Roger and Jeff.
a good approach here is that I recommend a good book on basic wiring/electricity to EVERY modeler to have handy by. There are a ton of them, from little pamphlets to very large and involved books on AC/DC theory. Tend toward the simpler, smaller ones. Oh, to all of you "vets": No one is so far above this subject [that] they cannot learn anything more. Even-ESPECIALLY -me.
RIch C.
Jonathan, what size LED lamp did you use for the pole lights, what size resistor? and what gauge/type wire and what did you use for the "lamp" base? Oh also, how many poles did you run together? Do you think I can run 10 in parallel, 12 feet in lenght? I plan to use either a 3.0 volt or 4.5 volt wall wart do you think that is sufficient?
I have 10 Telephone poles I would like to create something similar for Jamestown, my Christmas village. Here is the photo I am referencing. BTW ingenious how you come up with these awesome ideas. Jamestown is out of control with lights!!! I can't seem to get enough and now I am making my own LED lamp connections or "strands" of wire to go on trees. Just still a novice and doing things hit or miss right now.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/DSCN1044.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/DSCN1044.jpg.html)
Thanks for any info you or others may have. I have picked jbrock27, doneldon, rogertra and many others minds asking questions and I am so thankful!
Good Morning, Martha.
I started with a 9 volt wall wart, can't recall the amperage. With a 9 volt, you can string many LEDs in parallel without losing any brightness.
All my lighting is either 3mm LEDs or 0603 surface mount LEDS (SMD). If I run a lamp in parrallel, by itself, I used a 1K ohm resistor. I have also strung three LEDs in series using a 560 ohm resistor on the negative side. I prefer the individual wiring. If you have a problem, it's easier to isolate.
Metal lampposts are 1/16" aluminum tubing. You have to use magnet wire (30-gage) to get the wire to thread through the tubing. Wooden lampposts are dowels with holes drill in them for the LED leads. Can't recall the diameter of the posts, but they are bit thick, for sturdiness.
For the 3mm LEDs I used leftover plastic wheels for the lampshades. Drill the center to 1/8" and the LED fits snug (pressure fit). For the SMDs, I purchased those brass lampshades (fleabay) for a dollar a piece. I also made my own lampshades using those little plastic pill packs that come with Kadee coupler packs. Cutting those pill packs is tricky and doesn't always work.
Hope that helps some. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
Thank you thank you thank you! You have given me lots of useful info and ideas. I have to say the aluminum bent tube, pill capsules, old plastic wheels, my kind of thinking. Now I have ordered a bunch of 3 and 5 mm leds to play with. and I am digging through all my "what do these wall warts go to" pile and I salvaged some nice small gauge wire from usb cords that went to ??????
I will share when I get some of my projects completed. Christmas is still a little ways away.
Thanks again! M
Martha-
This may sound peculiar but put sand inside of your aluminum tubes before bending them. Then dump or blow it out after. This will keep the tubing round where you bend it. Otherwise it can flatten at the bend which doesn't look good and which can make it hard to feed wires through.
-- D
Thanks for that tip! I was trying to think what I could use without buying special tubing bender spring looking thingies. I think that is how Jonathan described those spring looking thingies. Still get a chuckle out of that!
;D Yep. Those springy things don't work very well! I strung electrical wired through the tubes and bent very slowly, around a screwdriver shank, to maintain the shape. Even using that method, I had a few tubes that flattened out a bit. I like Doneldon's sand idea. I'll have to try that next time I'm making lampposts.
Regards,
Jonathan
If you did not have sand readily available, would inserting a piece of wire, just a little thinner in guage than the metal tube work? Just pull the wire out of the tube after making the bend. (?)
Quote from: jbrock27 on October 03, 2014, 01:12:29 PM
If you did not have sand readily available, would inserting a piece of wire, just a little thinner in guage than the metal tube work? Just pull the wire out of the tube after making the bend. (?)
Jim-
I haven't tried it but I'm thinking the tube might flatten just to the size of the wire inside and trap it. I suppose that would be okay if the tube carries one side of a circuit and the insulated encased wire the other. Or if one side of a circuit goes up inside of a tube with the other side in a different light pole. Of course there wouldn't be any reason to put wires inside if the lights are strung pole to pole. Just use two poles to get the power up to the tops of the poles. But a piece of wire would still be needed in every pole to prevent flattening,
I have bending springs for 1/2" and 3/4" copper tubing and they work beautifully. I never saw springs small enough for say 1/8" tubing (still a foot wide in HO) so I started using sand. You can also use styrene rod if it isn't necessary to run wires inside; styrene won't come out.
-- D
This is why I love this site/forum so much. Its one huge think tank. We all have ideas none the only way to do it, we take it as we want to take it in. We can agree to disagree if we want. NO ONE on this site has EVER made me feel dumb, inferior, talked down to me because I am a novice and ask questions over and over. I have been on a few other sites way back when I first started Jamestown and lets just say they are snotty condescending jerks. So here's to the hokey pokey, the spring thingies and to Jamestown! This gal is very fortunate to have found such a nice bunch of people to help me.
Thank you for those kind words Martha. I make an effort to try not making people feel that way. Some may disagree, but I believe that often their lack of humility or easily being embarrassed, prevents them from seeing what I am telling them for what it intends to be; helpful. As you see, many more folks take the helpful approach here over the put down approach. Many of the posters to this thread are classic examples of those that make the effort to be helpful.
Doneldon;
Most of my bending experience has been in the electrical field; but with regards to bending aluminum tube: Sand I know about, but was wondering over the possibilities of using heat also. Your thoughts.
Rich C.
aluminum melts at more than 1300 degrees Fahrenheit so it might be a bit tricky!
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on October 06, 2014, 07:19:04 PM
Doneldon;
Most of my bending experience has been in the electrical field; but with regards to bending aluminum tube: Sand I know about, but was wondering over the possibilities of using heat also. Your thoughts.
Rich C.
Rich-
I haven't tried so let me be clear up front that this is just my best guess, uninformed by experience.
I'm afraid the tubing would flatten even if heated. In fact, I think it would be more likely to flatten because the degree of bending would be the same but the softened metal would have less resistance to the pressure. It would be easier for the bender, of course.
-- D
Hello Jonathan I'm Back! I need your advice or anyone else who might know, how can I hook up these lights to an adapter? and what size adapter? I want to do away with the battery power Do I need a resistor? How do I hook them up so I don't burn out this set of cool lights? They use 3 AA batteries, so the novice I am think that means maybe a 4.5 volts? But hey, I thought that a few days ago and burned up a nice set of lights on a tree so....... I am sure I am wrong on this guess.
This is the battery box with switchable choices. I'd like to keep that feature if at all possible
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/memartha/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-08100348.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/memartha/media/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-08100348.jpg.html)
As you can see they are tiny lamps on two wires, is this magnet wire?
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/memartha/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-08100413.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/memartha/media/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-08100413.jpg.html)
This is the circuit board inside the little black box
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/memartha/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-08100525.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/memartha/media/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-08100525.jpg.html)
This it the other side of that circuit board
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/memartha/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-08100623.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/memartha/media/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-08100623.jpg.html)
There are 2 wires to go to the battery terminals and 2 wires to go to the lamps.
I sent these photos to help view this particular problem I am having. I am pretty sure I would need to snip the 2 wires going to the battery terminals to use for the connection to an adapter. The BIG BIG question for me is what adapter would I use? a 4.5 volt? a 3.5 volt to be safe? what?
There is nothing on the black box or the packing it came in of what volts they are or what they pull. All you are suppose to do is add 3 AA batteries, and turn it on. However I do not want anything powered by batteries, this is why I want to change the power source.
I don't have a multi meter to check anything (that is on order). So I hope someone out there can help me. Thanks!
Martha-
You are right that three AA batteries put out 4.5 volts. One thing you can do is connect a 4.5 v DC output wall wart to the inputs on the small circuit board and not worry about what that board does or doesn't do to the electricity. That would also preserve your ability to control the brightness and flashing speed.
-- D
Thanks Don for the info. I tried it and hey they work!!! and didn't burn out! I did the happy my lights DID NOT burn out dance. Of course this leads me to more questions. Now that this set of lights is hooked up to the 4.5 v adapter, how many more strands or other lights can I add to the same adapter? They are all 4.5 powered.
I've been doing a lot of happy dancing here in the last couple days. First my new string of lights are not burning out! and I FINALLY found what I think will work great for my street lights connected to my telephone poles. Jonathan's street lights were the inspiration. I already had my "pencils made into telephone" telephones and just wanted to add a light to each. Take a look
They are wooden bowls I found at Hobby Lobby, I already pre drilled a hole. They are concave a small bit on the other side. I am using a 5 mm LED so they make a very nice glow on the snow.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/memartha/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09121918.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/memartha/media/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09121918.jpg.html)
This one is the prototype I am working with.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/memartha/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09093433.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/memartha/media/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09093433.jpg.html)
This telephone pole was the prototype for it. It is not in very good shape but you get the idea I am sure.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/memartha/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09093546.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/memartha/media/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09093546.jpg.html)
A VERY quick paint job, sloppy as all get out but once again just the prototype
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/memartha/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09093658.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/memartha/media/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09093658.jpg.html)
I think I like the green enamel and white inside but open for suggestions in the paint department.
(http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k30/memartha/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09093747.jpg) (http://s84.photobucket.com/user/memartha/media/Jamestown%20Village/2014-10-09093747.jpg.html)
Next is to figure out how to run the power pole to pole and still have them hanging off the side of the pole like this one. Once again any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I have ten poles surrounding the track layout. I think I will just run them straight across the arms of the pole, I string lights on the poles as well and was wondering if I could use that for the power. You know splice into it instead of running separate wires. I just don't know how much power that will take and how many resistors I should use. Maybe my new multimeter (arriving tomorrow) will help calculate that.
Later gator
Lookin' good, Martha!
Your phone pole lights are great. Those wooden bowls are really doing the job. I'm impressed with your ability to find materials which work for the effect you are seeking from other than the model railroad merchandise array. This is one of the oldest traditions in model railroading. Welcome to the broth, er, siblinghood of genuine model rails.
You can control the light leak from the tops of your lights by filling the cavity with putty, glue, caulk, spackle or even toothpaste. Paint the fill and you're all set.
-- D
Good find on the bowls.
Hi. I know I'm jumping in late. But even if you have completed all your structure and municipal lighting here's something I happened upon which could use some studying. Even when the room lights are on I still find it difficult to find the center of the 2 coupler knuckles to open them (I use tooth picks). So I bring my small LED flashlight (the kind with the button on the back or the cylinder) to light up the area between cars. Every time I do this it looks like the light from a full moon or tall lamppost shining over the area of the dark rail facility or way out in the sparse country in the moonlight. you may want to look into this as above lighting in the night. Though I don't know how I'd do it on that large of a scale, and particularly how to employ 110V power to do this. Maybe the 'accessory' posts on back of an old power pack or its DC current from the throttle. But do darken the room and hold the flash above a scene. It's quite dramatic.
Speaking of using toothpicks to open knuckle couplers, I have used Ray's (CNE Runner) trick of using a wooden skewer stick, to successfully get them apart. Works great. They are thicker than tooth picks and plenty long.
MarkInLA, thanks for jumping in, never too late the way I see it. Funny you mention the led flashlight. I bought a small LED lamp at the dollar store last year, has 5 bright leds' with a swiveling tube from base to light, you can twist and turn it any and all directions. I actually used it last year to video Jamestown in the dark. http://youtu.be/kulQYLP7a0M. Held it in one hand and the camera in the other. It does give it that moonbeam affect. Wiring is my Achilles heel. I am working on it and getting better but..... I am pretty sure I can turn it into a moon or ???. I use 3.0 volt, 4.5 volt, possibly 9 volt adapter as well as 110 for power on Jamestown. Most of the lighting is Lemax brand for Christmas Villages. I do appreciate your input, it has given me an idea to mull over. oh by the way, that little lamp I mentioned I have more than one. it worked fantastic for the wiring and soldering I've done. you can really direct the light right where you need it, it doesn't get hot like a regular lamp and the batteries last quite a long time.