Bachmann Online Forum

Discussion Boards => Large => Topic started by: RRRookie on October 22, 2014, 09:17:24 AM

Title: G Scale
Post by: RRRookie on October 22, 2014, 09:17:24 AM
I am thinking about getting into G scale traing for christmas. Currently I work with HO however would like to have a G scale traing in my yard. Now to my question. Recently purchased som Aristo Craft straight and was wondering if it will work with the Bachman G White Christmas train set. I would be grateful for any assistance.

R/RRRookie
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Chuck N on October 22, 2014, 09:26:11 AM
If your Christmas set has hollow, rolled steel, rails, the answer is no as an easy connection.  The Aristo rails are solid metal.  Bachmann has recently introduced solid brass rail track.  I do not know if that solid track has made it into sets.  

If your B'mann track is solid, you are good to go.

Chuck
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: RRRookie on October 22, 2014, 10:11:42 AM
Thanks Chuck I have not purchased the set yet. I have to order it on line cannot find it locally here in the Charleston SC area. I will keep researching before I purchase it. Appreciate the information.

Dave/RRRookie
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: NarrowMinded on October 22, 2014, 09:02:06 PM
Don't wait too long...
Christmas is when everyone starts buying sets.

I and many others here have good luck with "www.thefavoritespot.com"

NM-Jeff
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on October 22, 2014, 09:35:26 PM
TRainworld of NY may have it as well and you are closer to them so  you might get cheaper shipping.

The track in the Bachmann sets is still "steel alloy" tubular track and is not meant for outdoor use and does not connect to the aristo track without modification.  The AristoCraft track is suitable for outdoor use and will connect to the new Bachmann brass track which is made for outdoor use.

If you do not plan to ever run your trains outdoors, you may be able to modify the Bachmann Steel Alloy track to connect to your straight track.  Another option for use indoors is to buy more Bachmann steel alloy track which is available in both straight and curved sections as well as right and left hand switches.  If you plan to run trains outdoors then you must get either Bachmann track meant for outdoor use or another brand.

We welcome you to the wonderful world of Large scale trains.  The locomotive and cars in the set you want are excellent quality and are fine for outdoor use.  If you plan on lots of track additions you may also need a larger power supply to handle the greater distance to avoid power loss.  Bachmann also has larger power packs.   No matter what kind of electric train you run, careful assembly and track connection are critical to good operation.  bad connections will result in poor operation and kinked crooked track will end up with derailments and frustration.

Again welcome to the forum and feel free to ask any questions without hesitation and someone will help you out.

Have fun!!!

Bill
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on October 23, 2014, 05:03:54 AM
I don't know if this helps but I'm also just starting on G and what I've done is to buy track locomotives and cars separately on ebay, Dash Market and if I want new on Bachman store or Wholesaletrains, this way I get exactly what I want and at good prices. Lots of good solid brass track at good prices new and used is available this way.
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on October 23, 2014, 05:14:33 AM
I forgot to mention. Stay away from "sold as is items" If you don't want to do some repair work .  On the other hand if you like to fix things  some extremely good bargains have the "sold as is" coment. 
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on October 23, 2014, 05:32:09 AM
Bill, what power unit would be appropriate for 60 to 70 feet of track?
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Chuck N on October 23, 2014, 07:51:54 AM
T3

The length of track is of less importance than what is on the track.  Most steam engines have just one motor and most diesels have two motors (one per power truck).  I figure 1 amp per motor.  Smoke, lights, sound will all add to the power draw.

My USAt streamliners pull about 1/2 an amp each when the lights are on.  A streamliner with two diesels and six cars can pull about 7 amps; 4 amps for the engines a 3 for the cars.

What kind of trains are you planning to run.  Most starter set power supplies will barely handle the engine in the set.  They are usually rated at 1 amp or less.  Grades and tight curves make the engine work harder, which requires more amps.

I would recommend a minimum of 5 amps, 10 would be better.

My power supplies are 10 and 15 amps.

Brass rail is an excellent conductor.  As long as your rail joins are tight, I use a conducting grease in each join, length of track isn't much of a problem.

Chuck
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: RRRookie on October 23, 2014, 12:32:20 PM
Thanks for all the great advice guys this will be the start of a new branch to this wonderful hobby. Naturally I'll have to go slow the price range is a lot different than HO. One more question on the bar code sticker of the Aristocraft track it had European on it. I know that they are metric and we are standard but the width of the track should be the same I hope. Still looking at getting the Bachman White Christmas set and then buying solid brass curve track, just want to be sure that G scale track is the same width here and there. Again thanks for the advice.

Dave/RRRookie
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on October 23, 2014, 12:40:02 PM
For 60 or 70 feet and running just the set locomotive, you may be able to get by with the pack in the set.  The set locomotive does not draw much.  Mine draw about a half amp maybe a tad more when starting pulling four passenger cars on level track.  For what you are doing anything 2 amps rated will be fine. if you will be expanding and running more than one locomotive or more than one two motored locomotives than 5 amp minimum is better yet.

As for the Aristo track, the width is the same, the word "European" relates to the style of ties, not the width between the rails.

Hope this helps.

Bill
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: RRRookie on October 23, 2014, 12:48:45 PM
That is awsome news for me and bad news for my wallet, Thanks Bill looks like I'm back on track. Thanks again to everyone else for all the advice.

Dave/RRRookie
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: tac on October 23, 2014, 02:59:46 PM
Quote from: RRRookie on October 23, 2014, 12:32:20 PM
One more question on the bar code sticker of the Aristocraft track it had European on it. Dave/RRRookie

The 'European' sticker does NOT refer to the gauge of the track, but to the actual physical spacing of the rail ties ALONG the track.  European track, which does not carry trains made up of six or eight lashed-up 250 ton locomotives, has ties that are physically spaced further apart than those found in North America.  In other words, for every foot of track, Aristocraft American-style track has fifteen rail ties, European -style track has twelve.

Mixing them up will look, uh, odd.

tac
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: RRRookie on October 23, 2014, 03:23:47 PM
Thanks tac good info

Dave/RRRookie
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on October 23, 2014, 07:02:48 PM
Hi all,

I mix tie types all the time, by the time the ballast is on them folks can hardly tell the difference especially from 5 to 10 feet away.  I get compliments on how great my track looks all the time.  Another trick is to paint the sides of the rails, I always do it with a darkish grimy rust mix of acrylic paint.   I even mix brass and stainless, painting the sides of the rail disguises the differences. Whenever possible Keep the longest possible stretches the same type of track. I might do say 70 feet of one type the change over to the other type.  I have visited hundreds of layouts and cannot remember even one single instance where I even looked that close at the ties, or thought "gee look at the different ties they are using".  

I generally buy what is available at the lowest cost, and prefer used track when I can get it.

Bill

Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Chuck N on October 23, 2014, 07:21:09 PM
Well said Bill.  In my experience, the ten foot rule rules.  Only on a diorama could the spacing of the ties be a critical part of an exhibit.  Outdoors, as far as I observe spacing of ties is not a critical factor.  I use what I have. No big deal.

Several times a year I take trains out to run on a large (600' mainline) layout.  We run all scales:  1:13.7, 1:22.5, 1:24, 1:29, 1:32, and "O".  I have never heard a comment about the spacing of the ties.  The "O" has a separate track.

Chuck
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on October 23, 2014, 09:13:30 PM
About power supplies: Aristo-Craft 55460 power supply. 1 train, Spectrum 2 truck 36 ton Shay, 8 cars, flat loop track. OK?
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Chuck N on October 23, 2014, 09:41:15 PM
The 10 amp is good.  It is just a power supply, I think that you will need to add a speed controller.  I'm not familiar with this supply, but I think that, by reading the description, it puts out a pulse width voltage.  Some engines and sound systems may have problems with pulse width voltage.  Other posters may be able to elaborate further.

Years ago I had an Aristo controller that put out a pulse width signal, but it had a switch to go between pulse width and linear.  I always used the linear mode.

Chuck
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: tac on October 24, 2014, 05:21:39 AM
MOST modern r/c units use PWR - using them on a motor designed for linear voltage will cause loads of problems - overheating, a heavy buzzing/humming noise, and eventual destruction.  Remember too that our bigger locos use a LOT more power, volts AND amps, than anything you'd EVER find on H0 scale, and that really does matter.

A big AccuCraft K27 with ten cars behind it it is easily using 18-20V and four or five amps - more it you have lighted passenger cars off track power.  By way of contrast, most of my straight DC H0 locos will run on 3-5V and 250 MA...

tac
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on October 24, 2014, 07:26:58 AM
The confusing part is that many power supplies don't specify Amps, or PWR or DC or DCC, or linear voltage. Frankly it looks that I must improve my  knowledge of electricity before trying to buy a power supply, at the moment I do not understand the terminology. 5 amps however from what I have been able to understand from your valuable advice,  seems sufficient for me at the moment, since I will not be running more than one train on one setup with one locomotive at a time, probably max one lighted passenger car with 5  lagondas, sound yes, no slopes and the biggest locomotive I have is my   Spectrum  36 ton Shay. My present power supply is a 1 amp LGB.
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: tac on October 24, 2014, 09:49:27 AM
Quote from: trainstrainstrains on October 24, 2014, 07:26:58 AM
The confusing part is that many power supplies don't specify Amps, or PWR or DC or DCC, or linear voltage. Frankly it looks that I must improve my  knowledge of electricity before trying to buy a power supply, at the moment I do not understand the terminology. 5 amps however from what I have been able to understand from your valuable advice,  seems sufficient for me at the moment, since I will not be running more than one train on one setup with one locomotive at a time, probably max one lighted passenger car with 5  lagondas, sound yes, no slopes and the biggest locomotive I have is my   Spectrum  36 ton Shay. My present power supply is a 1 amp LGB.


Power units per se are required by international law to show the working voltage and amperage right there 'on the box'.  I have two Aristocraft units that have dual voltage/amperage selectivity, depending on the required power for your type of train - 22v and 13A or 13.8V 20A - plenty juice enuff for most application you are ever going to need.  You will, of course, also need some knd of throttle unit with a matching amperage capacity.

No power unit has DCC built in, as maven Kevin Strong tells you, there are many kinds of DCC brands and types available for use in the larger-scale stuff that we run - most of it is excellent, all the trash has been done out of business by now.

Many older units were selectable with regard to linear or PWR output, but these days, with the proliferation of ready-to-fit r/c units, most. if not all of which use pulsed power, you'll be hard-pressed to find such a unit.  Your LGB power unit, however, is one such unit - LGB motors were designed to use linear power.  Their proprietary version of DCC, called MTS, is alone in its electronic configuration.

In any case LGB 1A unit is a paperweight, Sir, suitable only for the smallest of locomotives on the smallest of tracks.

I'm also assuming that you mean 'gondolas' - a lagonda is a trade-name of a style of automobile built by the Aston-Martin Car Company of Newport Pagnall, UK.  Your Shay, with a lit passenger car and five gons is going to struggle to move at all and will probably stall when the safety overload switch inside the powere unit goes futz.

tac
OVGRS 

Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: armorsmith on October 24, 2014, 07:04:28 PM
If I understand PWM controls, it is quite simple in concept. The voltage is constant. To obtain the appearance of lower voltages, the controller turns the voltage on and off at different rates. For perceived low voltages the pulses of voltage are shorter with larger times of no voltage. Wikipedia has a fairly good treatsie  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation

As for sound cards, or back EMF circuits, they may not like PWM much.  The idea of very quickly turning  the sound card on and off sounds like a bad idea, and that is how the card would be seeing the voltage.  I don't fully understand Back EMF circuits, but i would think they would respond in a similar manner to sound cards.

The motor itself doesn't care, so long as the voltage being supplied does not exceed the rating of the motor. If motors cared I doubt some of the old (1950ish) Mantua, etc would have lasted, yet I know some that run on PWM controlled track quite often - and not re-motored.  Consider that part of the development of PWM control was to give finer control, especially at lower speeds, of those older open frame motors.

I have personally run my Bachmann 'Thomas' on an Aristo pack on PWM without ill affects. I would not per se advise this simply to avoid liability concerns - your milage may vary.
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on October 24, 2014, 08:33:43 PM
I use a spell check,  I'm honestly blaming it for doing something only Kevin Strong could do , turning a gondola into a lagonda, and while on the subject of gondolas before I started with model trains a gondola for me was only the beautifill and pohivitivly expensive, extreamly romantic Venetian canal gondolier driven canoo that my wife and I did not ride, instead we saw Venece from the  Vaporetto, the venetian canal public transport , also romantic very cheap , sounds like a chu chu train and you dont feel like you are throwing your money straight into the canal, like the few turists that go for the gondola. Why a log carring train car has the same name is beyond me.   Although I suppose there is a remote resemblance.
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on October 24, 2014, 09:35:47 PM
What does DCC stand for?
Your abbreviation search returned 198 meanings:   Data Compression Conference  , -- Digital Command Control, --   Dynamic Currency Conversion, Dallas Cowboys Cheerleaders, Delgado Community College,  Dhaca City Corporation,  Digital Content Creation, Digital Curation Center, Dunedin City Council,  Durham County Council, Distributed Checksum Clearinghouse, Data Coordinating Center, Dallas Christian College, ........http://www.acronymfinder.com/DCC.html
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on October 24, 2014, 10:21:53 PM
Digital Command Control
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Chuck N on October 24, 2014, 10:22:52 PM
Wish I could help.  It has been DCC for a long time.  I don't use it and likely never will.  Most of my engines are straight DC.  I have 5 that I have converted to RC/BATTERY. I use the battery powered engines when I'm running as a guest on a layout without track power.

Chuck
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: tac on October 25, 2014, 03:58:39 AM
Quote from: trainstrainstrains on October 24, 2014, 08:33:43 PM
I use a spell check,  I'm honestly blaming it for doing something only Kevin Strong could do , turning a gondola into a lagonda, and while on the subject of gondolas before I started with model trains a gondola for me was only the beautifill and pohivitivly expensive, extreamly romantic Venetian canal gondolier driven canoo that my wife and I did not ride, instead we saw Venece from the  Vaporetto, the venetian canal public transport , also romantic very cheap , sounds like a chu chu train and you dont feel like you are throwing your money straight into the canal, like the few turists that go for the gondola. Why a log carring train car has the same name is beyond me.   Although I suppose there is a remote resemblance.


Just to show the connection between 'vaporetto' and the 'chuff-chuff' noise you noticed - 'the word 'vaporetto' is Itlaian for 'steamer' as in a steam-propelled boat.  Hence the connection.  Coomon useage in English English uses the word 'steamer' to describe an old-fashioned merchant vessel that carries passengers - as in 'The Cork Steam Packet and Navigation Co.'

A log-carrying train car is not called a gondola, but either a log flat car - if it IS a flatcar - usually with stake sides 'note spelling of 'stake', not 'steak', or a skeleton car, on account that it is simply a pair of trucks connected by a stout wooden beam on whch the trucks are mounted.  A single-truck, connected to another truck by a substantial wooden beam, is called a 'disconnect', on account of the fact that it is not directly connected to another truck, except by the loose-fitting rooster bar.  They all have log bolsters, or bunks, in logging terms, on which the log rest in transit.

A gondola car is like an open-topped box, BTW, high medium or low-sided, and pretty useless for carrying anything wooden unless it's in chip-form.

I get the impression that English is not necessarily your first language, so I hope that you'll forgive me for taking what may seem to be excessive liberties by explaining like this.  I had to learn it, too.

tac
Ottawa Valley GRS
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on October 25, 2014, 12:51:08 PM
 Can someone please recommend a 5 to 10 amp simple power supply with velocity control and a harmless to model trains type of electricity new or used  for under $100 and suggest where I might be able to buy it?
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on October 25, 2014, 01:05:09 PM
Call Robbie at:   http://rldhobbies.com/  Robbie will give you real world advice and a great discount price.  He is a train expert.
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on October 25, 2014, 01:14:58 PM
Thanks,  will do.
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: NarrowMinded on October 26, 2014, 01:58:24 AM
I have to agree with Bill, I buy what ever track I can find cheap.
I Mix what ever I have and never give the tie spacing a thought and no one has ever noticed or atleast never mentioned it, they are too busy watching the trains to care.

Honestly I do not own a single peice of track bought new, its all second hand and I have few hundred feet atleast.

Less money on track = more money for trains  ;D

Nm-Jeff
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: doug c on November 03, 2014, 12:03:16 AM
Also 'american' vs 'european' track    If you walk on the 'american' track there is more of a chance of the rails popping from the ties ! 

That is why I stuck mainly with the euro unless used 'american' was up for sale at a decent price point ....

Also for more backgrd on the track,  both proto (?)  and G, chk out this page of George's (and then beyond since you're starting out)
http://girr.org/girr/tips/tips4/track_tips.html

nite,
doug c
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: RRRookie on November 03, 2014, 10:47:09 AM
Thanks to all for the great advice, I went ahead and ordered the "Virginia & Truckee set thus allowing for year round train operation. I'm dissapointed in the fact the engine only made about 8 laps before in stopped working. I set it up outside on brass track (didn't want to use the track that came with the set). I didn't realize how critical the leveling factor was. It had only one spot where the engine struggled on, about 6 sections of 5' curve track. The motor still runs but sounds like the gears are stripped. Truly it was 8 laps at the most.  I knew I would have to fix it but I didnt think it would damage a brand new engine so quickly. The grade was about 3 or 4 inches on the half curve, are G guage engines (4-6-0) that delicate. Not dissuaded just disappointed.
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Kevin Strong on November 03, 2014, 11:49:59 AM
If you're talking about 5' diameter track (2.5' radius), that grade is too steep. A 4" rise in half a circle of 5' diameter track is 4 1/4%. The commonly recommend maximum grade for relatively straight track is 4%. When you throw a curve as tight as 5' diameter into the mix, that compounds the grade and really bogs the locomotive down. That's going to strain the gears on any locomotive.

You'll definitely want to do one of two things (if not both). First off, level the track as much as possible. With curves that tight, I wouldn't go any steeper than 2% at the absolute most. Second, if you can fit wider curves, do so. The usual rule is to fit the widest curves in the space that you can. While the 4-6-0 and cars can fit around a 5' diameter curve, they do much better on an 8' diameter (4' radius) curve.

Bummer about your loco's gears, but they're at least an easy fix. The trick will be to re-engineer your track so you don't repeat the injury.

Later,

K
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on November 03, 2014, 01:11:57 PM
RRR,

If you just bought it brand new from an authorized seller and have the receipt, then the warranty applies at no charge during the first year.  Contact the service department for instructions.

Your loco should not have stripped the gears in 8 laps even under the bad conditions you have.  In most cases the wheels will slip or the power supply circuit breaker will trigger before the gears will strip.  If you pressed down on the loco to get better traction or to prevent wheel slip that only aggravates the situation and can cause the damage.  Kevin is exactly right about the strain, you will need to reduce the grade, and try to level the track on wider curves.  I suspect the tight curves are the biggest problem even more tha the steep grade, but the heavy grade is definitely part of the problem. Carefully laid track will reduce strain on your loco.  I use a 4-6-0 loco on a back and forth automated track with a 3.5 foot grade, but with only two sections of 10 foot radius. It has worked perfectly for years, but I only use three log cars and a caboose.   I have six 4-6-0's some 14 years old, and have never had a failure.  Yours should not have failed that quickly based on what you are telling us.

Shame about the problem, but don't feel too bad, we all make rookie mistakes and I have made more than my share over the years.

While it is an easy repair, I would at least contact service about warranty repair.

Bill
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: RRRookie on November 03, 2014, 02:31:09 PM
Thanks Kevin and Bill will definately get track level and try to increase radius. One more thing before the gears stripped I noticed that the rear trucks (back wheels) of the tender would derail everytime the engine came out of the turn. This only happened when pulling the passengers cars. As soon as the tender strightened out it would derail. I'm sure it was the tight radius of the turn, but the curve for the indoor track was tighter than 5'. 4.5' to be exact. This was also on the oppisite of the incline a much more level area. Would adding ballast to the tender help?
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Joe Zullo on November 03, 2014, 04:50:33 PM
Quote from: trainstrainstrains on October 24, 2014, 08:33:43 PM
I use a spell check,  I'm honestly blaming it for doing something only Kevin Strong could do , turning a gondola into a lagonda, and while on the subject of gondolas before I started with model trains a gondola for me was only the beautifill and pohivitivly expensive, extreamly romantic Venetian canal gondolier driven canoo that my wife and I did not ride, instead we saw Venece from the  Vaporetto, the venetian canal public transport , also romantic very cheap , sounds like a chu chu train and you dont feel like you are throwing your money straight into the canal, like the few turists that go for the gondola. Why a log carring train car has the same name is beyond me.   Although I suppose there is a remote resemblance.



BTW,

Although the train car and the Venetian boat are spelled the same way they are pronounced differently.

The train car is gon do' la and the boat is gon'dola. Notice the accents are on different syllables.   8)
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Loco Bill Canelos on November 03, 2014, 05:41:13 PM
RRR

Your rear tender trucks should not derail pulling the passenger cars if the track is correctly laid.  Extra weight in the tender just makes the drag on the motor and gears worse.

I have given your situation some thought, I am pretty convinced the tracklaying is your most likely culprit. Track laying has to be done very carefully especially using a model steam engine as opposed to a model diesel engine.  With a steam engine of any brand the long wheelbase, even with blind drivers in the center, creates side force and binding when going around even well laid tight curves. When laying track on a flat surface it is extremely important to make sure there are no kinks in the rails at the joiners, joiners are tight, and the track must also be level from side to side. If the track is not level side to side and  or there are kinks at the joints,  drivers and trucks easily derail when going thru a curve or running through the kink.  

When grades are added several new factors and forces come into play.   You must be very careful to insure your transition from flat to grades is extremely gentle. Too steep and the pony truck is forced up and can foul the chassis.  As the loco continues the drivers then go up forcing down the drawbar often causing derailments and problems with the tender trucks.  Reverse problem occurs transitioning from grade to flat.

Now when we add grade transition with an immediate tight curve, you get double trouble because now both forces are acting against you.

Next with grade transition and immediate tight curves and the track is not level side to side through the transition points and tight curves you have triple trouble and the drivers and trucks on cars will often lift on one side at the curve point and derail.

I hope all this will not deter you from having fun with the hobby.  This much I know poor track is the number one reason why many I know over the years leave the hobby.  It is definitely not fun if your train derails constantly when you are running them especially with guests, model diesels are much more forgiving especially those with four wheel truck, as the shorter truck wheel base tends to track better.  Six wheel diesel trucks are less forgiving even when the manufacturer include built in sideplay on the center wheel set, but they are more forgiving than with steamers.

I can't tell how many times my friends have brought me their steam engine asking me to fix it because it derails all the time. They often cuss out the manufacturer for making a shoddy product.  I check the spacing between the wheels to check gauge, find that OK, then put it on my well maintained track and it never derails.  They are shocked and say "how did you fix it?"   Now I ask them to please call me first so I can I go out and troubleshoot their track.  I usually see what poor condition it is in, joints not tight, crooked joints, track not level, bad grades and transitions...... it is no wonder they are not having fun.  Sometimes they say it's not my track,  after all my GP-40 diesel doesn't derail as often.  So we get the diesel out and sure enough it stays on the rails better than the steamer, but you can see it wobbling side to side on the bad track.  I try to be gentle, but in the end say as nicely as possible "it the darn track".   After some leveling and tightening and smoothing the steamers start running better without derailments. it is then  they become believers!!  

If you lay your track well, right from the beginning you will never regret it.  It must be well ballasted and maintained and re leveled from time to time to continue to function well.   Outdoor railroading exposed your layout to mother nature.  Mother nature is often not nice to the full size trains, so you can imaging what 3 inches of rain in a short time can do to your small in size outdoor layout.  I always suspect my track first when I star having derailments.  Sometimes it looks great till you get the level out and stat checking!!

A walnut falling from forty feet can damage a plastic locomotive or piece of rolling stock,  but that is for some other discussin!!!  misspelling intended ;D ;D ;D

Hope this helps you get a good start!!

Bill
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: RRRookie on November 04, 2014, 07:57:02 AM
WOW thanks for the wealth of knowledge Bill. It took me awhile to learn how to lay track in HO and get it wright. I finally learned to stop being in a hurry to get the trains running and take my time and do it right. Now my HO trains can run for hours with out derailing. Don't worry I won't give up, I'll apply your advice, do some more research and get back at it. I'm heading to a couple of train shows one here in Cahrleston SC this coming weekend, the other in Myrtle Beach the following weekend. I know there is one in Atlanta coming up but I can't make that one. Anyway,Thanks again Bill. 
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: Stryker on November 10, 2014, 01:01:44 AM
Hi. Stryker here,
Just a thought w/regards Your outdoor layout:  Have You ever considered building Your track Layout on a raised bed?  It will make it easier for You to get to, upkeep and repair.  There are several article that have been published in various magazines ove the years.

Hope this helps.

Cheers to all,
Stryker
Title: Re: G Scale
Post by: trainstrainstrains on November 10, 2014, 08:34:13 AM
More  on gondola
Etymology: mid 16th century: from Venetian Italian, from Rhaeto-Romanic gondolĂ  'to rock, roll.' 
Etymology: Italian dialect (Venetian), probably from Middle Greek kontoura small vessel.