Can you help me with any references on your web site and books that will assist me in building this for my grandsons?
Try looking and reading a few of these....
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php?action=search2
Kalmbach publishes several books with track plans for 4x8 layouts. Some of the newer books include plans using EZ-Track.
They publish what they call their "Essential Series", which cover just about all the basics of getting started. You can see them at:
http://www.kalmbachstore.com/modeltrains-railroading-model-railroading-books-essentials-series.html (http://www.kalmbachstore.com/modeltrains-railroading-model-railroading-books-essentials-series.html)
They're available at most hobby shops and decent book stores. You can also order them direct or from Amazon.
Clicking on 'books', just above "Essential" on the page above, will take you to the page where other book series are listed.
Len
Colts/Bills, what kind of track are you considering using for/with your grandsons?
I have the old brass sectional track from 35 years ago. I realize cleaning will be a big job, but others have recommended I start over with the nickel/silver that is now in vogue. Thoughts?
Considering there's a reason brass track hasn't been made in over 20 years for a reason, yeah, go with nickle silver. Way less work to maintain, and locos don't stall because green gunk is growing on the rails.
I'd suggest pulling the rails out of the brass track and recycling the plastic ties and brass. Or check with your local scrap dealer if you've got a lot. Depending on what part of the country your in, scrap brass is going for $0.85 - $1.55/lb for under 50 lbs.
Len
Thank you Len! Now, do I go with atlas or Bachman track and switches on a cork roadbed or think about going with the track with attached roadbed? 83 or 100? I could see adding ballast down the road, but in the near term, what is the most realistic looking option? I appreciate the input as I jump back into the hobby after 30+ years!
Which track system to use depends on a lot of factors. How big a layout do you plan to build? Will it be temporary or permanent? Will mainly be running "through" trains, or doing a lot of switching? Will you be looking for crossovers between parallel tracks with fairly close spacing, e.g., 2.5" - 3"? Do you want to have parallel sidings with fairly close spacing to the mainline? Do you plan on having yard tracks that aren't elevated on seperate roadbeds like mainline track? Do you have older equipment with "pizza cutter" flanges that require code 100 rail? Or newer stuff with RP25 contour wheels that can handle code 83, or even 70, with no problems?
The close spaced parallel tracks and siding is an issue, because none of the built in roadbed track system turnouts are designed for that. Even the Atlas Tru-Track roadbed system forces you to use the 1/3 curve section in the "match the curve" mode, and not flipped around to create a close spaced parallel track. Or removed completely for creating a crossover between close parallel mainlines.
I would say look at some track plan books, and once you have a better idea of what you want to do, then decide on a track system.
Len
Is Bachman eztrack 83 0r 100? Do i need 100 to accomodate my mid 70's inventory? I intend to replicate the Tyco layout expander plan from the mid-70's that allows 4 trains with 2 in operation at one time.
I hope to upgrade to DCC in a couple of years and want ti eliminate or minimize additional expenditures on track and switces when the time comes.
HO EZ-Track is cd100. Cd100 is probably best for equipment from the 70's, a lot of it had huge flanges, if you don't want to change out the wheels.
Most layout plans from that era use "Common Rail" wiring, where only one rail is gapped for creating electrical blocks. If you know you'll be upgrading to DCC down the road, still put in the blocks, but gap both rails. This makes it much easier to set up power districts, and troubleshoot problems, when you finally switch to DCC. Just turn all the blocks on when using DCC.
Other than turnouts/crossovers with decoders built into them, track doesn't care if your running DC or DCC. And even standard remote turnouts can be operated with DCC by adding 'fixed' decoders to operate them, for example the Digitrax DS64. There are several others.
Len
it should also be noted that just because you intend to run dcc at a later date, it doesn't mean you have to control your switches with dcc as well. the standard control boxes and ac wiring for the switch motors will work just as well when you run your trains with dcc. no point in tearing everything out to add dcc switches or statio0nary decoders to control what you already have.
Thanks Jeff, disappointing Steeler loss as a former Pittsburgher. Root for our Colts this weekend. We'll need a lot of help against Peyton.
No need to tear any switches out to install fixed decoders. The DS64, or equivalent just replaces the switch controller. You can use the switch wiring already in place.
Len
I recommend Atlas, nickel silver track. I use and don't have anything against Code 100. You may wish to save and use some brass track for a spur or siding. Atlas' book "HO Layouts For Every Space" is as good one.
PS-Jeff does not like sports and does not like when sports gets talked about on the board. But I do. I was rooting for the RAVENS but only bc I dislike them slightly less than the STEELERS. I will be rooting for the COLTS though ;).
Quote from: IndyBufflo on January 06, 2015, 07:00:50 PM
Thanks Jeff, disappointing Steeler loss as a former Pittsburgher. Root for our Colts this weekend. We'll need a lot of help against Peyton.
I would gladly trade all our teams for the music scene of seattle or Toronto. what part of da burgh are you from?
I've heard Toronto is an awesome city. Clean too!
I would go with Code 100 myself & instead of DC I would wire it for DCC....