I have echo valley and thunder chief trains, I added a 5th rolling stock to each set. I've got my lay out pretty much set. I am able to operate both trains at the same time, they work great. I would like to be able to park one on a straight dead end turn out. What is the best way to turn off the track when I park the train? I don't want the train to sit and idle for a long time. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm really enjoying this new found hobby. Getting a little nervous about land scaping, but I'll cross that bridge soon. Every railroader have a great day.
Gap one rail at the beginning of the siding, insert an insulated rail joiner, solder drop feeders to the rail each side of the gap and terminate at a simple on/off switch. Turn switch to the on position and drive the engine/train onto the siding then turn the switch to the off position and the siding is now dead electircally.
Thank you for the information, very helpful.
Hi,
I bought the Echo Valley set, too.
As to your problem. it is due to both locomotives being programmed for number 3 on your EZ Command controller. You need to program one of the engines for another number. Then you can control them differently.
As for landscaping, go to Woodland Scenics and watch their tutorial videos. They are absolutely wonderful.
Just interested why you bought the two sets? After receiving the Echo Valley, I wanted to expand. I called Bachmann about purchasing the Thunder Chief. They suggested I buy another DCC sound locomotive and rolling stock of my choice and whatever extra track I wanted. They said that neither the extra EZ Command controller nor the transformer could be used, except as backups. So that's what I did.
I think AGSB's reply pertains to DC rather than the DCC system you have. As a newbie myself, I certainly could be wrong.
!
The insulated gap will work for either system. With DCC you have power to the track at all times the system is on. The decoder is what makes having multiple locos going at different speeds and directions possible. Each decoder gets it's own address. That way the address chosen by the DCC system will only run that loco. If all the locos have the same address, they will all move at once. Joe
Is the insulated gap needed? Just wondering.
Using either an insulated rail joiner (Code 100 for EZ track) or physically cutting a gap in a rail with a cutting disc tool like a Dremel, will accomplish the same thing Ken.
Trackman Ed is running DCC only, I assume. Is a gap or an insulated joiner even needed? Just wondering.
If you wish to be able to disconnect power to a particular section of track, incorporating the above said switch, yes.
Quote from: kdgrant6 on February 12, 2015, 12:22:45 PM
Trackman Ed is running DCC only, I assume. Is a gap or an insulated joiner even needed? Just wondering.
Doesn't matter if it's DC or DCC, if you want to isolate the section of track you need the gap and switch. Using an insulated rail joiner is, technically, not required but is a best practice. Changes in temp could cause expansion in the track and close the gap if the joiner is not there.
DCC engines are always powered, even if not selected by the controller. They are sitting, waiting for a command from the controller to the decoder to do something. This eats away at power available to other engines running on the layout, specially if they are sound equipped.
If cutting a gap in existing track with a cut off disk, you can glue a small piece of styrene in the gap to keep the rails from touching. Shape to the rail profile with a jewelers file or emery board.
Len
Quote from: kdgrant6 on February 12, 2015, 12:22:45 PM
Trackman Ed is running DCC only, I assume. Is a gap or an insulated joiner even needed? Just wondering.
decoder equipped locomotives draw current even when not in use, unless on an isolated track. the basic ez command system only puts out 1 amp which isn't much power at all. I would gap the rail and turn off power to that track when I want to park a locomotive.
as a matter of fact, my whole layout is wired this way. I can and do isolate tracks when I park my locomotives. even though my dcc system has a much higher current rating than the ez command, I would rather not load down my system with unused locomotives.
Quote from: AGSB on February 12, 2015, 01:05:01 PM
Quote from: kdgrant6 on February 12, 2015, 12:22:45 PM
Trackman Ed is running DCC only, I assume. Is a gap or an insulated joiner even needed? Just wondering.
Doesn't matter if it's DC or DCC, if you want to isolate the section of track you need the gap and switch. Using an insulated rail joiner is, technically, not required but is a best practice. Changes in temp could cause expansion in the track and close the gap if the joiner is not there.
DCC engines are always powered, even if not selected by the controller. They are sitting, waiting for a command from the controller to the decoder to do something. This eats away at power available to other engines running on the layout, specially if they are sound equipped.
I agree...All my storage tracks, whether dedicated for engines only (roundhouse), or common yard or sidings, are able to be turned off. No sense in having engines sitting idly and being powered for long periods of time.
Gus.
Even with DCC, having a layout wired for blocks that can be turned On/Off makes isolating electrical problems a lot easier.
Len
You can add a small turntable, Because the only hot track is the one the table is set to. I run DC and DCC and park my extra loco around my turntable.
it is not possible to park an entire train on a turntable radial track like the original poster said he wanted to do. that is why he specified killing power to a particular dead end siding.
Quote from: jward on March 14, 2015, 03:49:02 PM
it is not possible to park an entire train on a turntable radial track like the original poster said he wanted to do. that is why he specified killing power to a particular dead end siding.
PHILWS' comment is complementary to the subject at hand...I have ON/OFF sidings for parking rolling stock and entire consists, and all turntable storage tracks can also be turned off for engine storage.
Gus
Trackman ED took AGSB's great advice and ran with it, no need to help him anymore unless your bored like me :D.
And yes kdgrant the siding has to be isolated if you wish to have no power to the engine but you can still park the engine in a siding not insulated on DCC but there is still power going to the engine. I prefer a dead siding as not to have the draw from the controller.
Jerry
I now see the advantage of what this thread discusses and would like to do it on an expansion I'm working on, but I'm still confused (though not as much as I was earlier, as a reader of my replies to this post can easily see).
Here's my problem: if I follow these directions, I can run a DCC locomotive out of the part of the layout controlled by my Bachmann EZ Controller. It moves onto an isolated section of track powered by another source. The locomotive still responds to the command of the EZ controller because . . . because why?
Does the fact that it receives electricity, even though it's from another power pack, keep it operating as it was when it left the Bachmann power block--and "by keep it operating" I mean bell ringing, light on, etc.?
But what about speed? How would I stop it if the EZ controller isn't controlling that part of track because of the insulated joiners?
After it is finished sleeping, how does flipping the switch allow me to take control again even though the engine is on another power block?
kdgrant6,
There is no other power pack needed to power the siding and I would not advise it.
All that needs to be done is to isolate the siding from the main tracking and use a toggle switch. To do this I usually isolate with insulated joiners right where the siding separates from the turnout and solder two wires from the rail to a feeder coming from the existing controller and splice the toggle switch into one of the feeder wires to that section allowing you to kill power to the rail thus causing the siding to go dead after the loco enters and you turn the toggle off.
If you pick up one of the books that is for basic wiring for model railroads it will help you understand this and others.
Thanks, Jerry.
Is this Kalmbach book one you'd recommend?
Wiring Your Toy Train Layout, Second Edition
Peter Riddle
Item #10-8405
Or is there another one?
Amazon reviews on the Riddle book say that even though the gook is a classic, all the examples are O scale.
This one by Mike Polsgrove is more recent and directly addresses DCC systems, which I have.
Basic DCC Wiring for Your Model Railroad: A Beginner's Guide to Decoders, DCC Systems, and Layout Wiring Paperback – April 1, 2011
Would it be better?
Quote from: kdgrant6 on April 06, 2015, 08:20:03 AM
Thanks, Jerry.
Where does this feeder come from on a Bachmann EZ Controller?
If you do not have a bus under your layout with feeders dropping to it (advise doing this if your layout stretches beyond a 4x8), you can easily splice into the red wire from your controller to the power terminal of your track.
Quote from: kdgrant6 on April 06, 2015, 08:20:03 AM
Thanks, Jerry.
Is this Kalmbach book one you'd recommend?
Wiring Your Toy Train Layout, Second Edition
Peter Riddle
Item #10-8405
Or is there another one?
Any Kalmbach book with "Toy Train" in the title relates to 3-rail O-gauge, like the Williams by Bachmann cars and locos.
Kalmbach books on DCC can be found here: https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/model%20trains/books?filter.series=f4a5e77d9eaa482aab3098d97a241766 (https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/model%20trains/books?filter.series=f4a5e77d9eaa482aab3098d97a241766)
Basic Wiring here: https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/model-trains/books/12491__Wiring-Your-Model-Railroad (https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/model-trains/books/12491__Wiring-Your-Model-Railroad)
Len
Thanks for posting the links Len, my brain is still asleep as I missed the two posts of the OP before the one asking where the feeder come's from.
There is also unlimited information on the web about this, not just in books.
Quote from: kdgrant6 on April 06, 2015, 07:12:26 AM
I now see the advantage of what this thread discusses and would like to do it on an expansion I'm working on, but I'm still confused (though not as much as I was earlier, as a reader of my replies to this post can easily see).
Here's my problem: if I follow these directions, I can run a DCC locomotive out of the part of the layout controlled by my Bachmann EZ Controller. It moves onto an isolated section of track powered by another source. The locomotive still responds to the command of the EZ controller because . . . because why?
Does the fact that it receives electricity, even though it's from another power pack, keep it operating as it was when it left the Bachmann power block--and "by keep it operating" I mean bell ringing, light on, etc.?
But what about speed? How would I stop it if the EZ controller isn't controlling that part of track because of the insulated joiners?
After it is finished sleeping, how does flipping the switch allow me to take control again even though the engine is on another power block?
You don't say what your "other power source" is. There is a cardinal rule in DCC which states that there can only be
one command station controlling a layout, whether it be a small shelf layout or a large club layout. Multiple command stations will soon lead to disaster...
Gus
Quote from: Jerrys HO on April 06, 2015, 09:40:46 AM
Thanks for posting the links Len, my brain is still asleep as I missed the two posts of the OP before the one asking where the feeder come's from.
There is also unlimited information on the web about this, not just in books.
Yep. But it's easier to make notes in the margin of a book you can carry to the layout than in the corner of a PC screen.
Len
guslcp commetns:
You don't say what your "other power source" is. There is a cardinal rule in DCC which states that there can only be one command station controlling a layout, whether it be a small shelf layout or a large club layout. Multiple command stations will soon lead to disaster...
I use only a Bachmann EZ Controller.
Quote from: kdgrant6 on April 06, 2015, 01:36:04 PM
guslcp commetns:
You don't say what your "other power source" is. There is a cardinal rule in DCC which states that there can only be one command station controlling a layout, whether it be a small shelf layout or a large club layout. Multiple command stations will soon lead to disaster...
I use only a Bachmann EZ Controller.
kd, the rule still applies. No two DCC command stations should be hooked to the same layout.
That's what I meant: I use one controller.
with regards to the toy train wiring book, referred to earlier.
o guage toy trains (tinplate) like lionel and Williams run off ac rather than the forms of dc which control most HO trains. they have a third rail for electrical pickup, and because of this wiring for toy trains is much simpler than for HO. for example, since two outer two rails on 3 rail track are electrically connected, there is no need to gap the rails on a reversing loop. thus, any book on wiring toy train or 3 rail layouts will be irrelevant to what you are trying to do.
I am going to use an analogy of house wiring to explain the wiring of sidings for parking trains.your dcc command station is like the transformer on the pole outside your house. it powers all trackage. the toggle switches are like light switches. the source of the power remains the same, but by flipping the light switch you can control which lights get power. the tracks are wired through toggle switches in a similar way. flipping the toggles allows you to determine which tracks get power. in both cases this also allows you to reduce power consumption. in the case of your ez command, you only have about 1 amp of power available to begin with, and it is very easy to exceed this if you have several locomotives sitting around drawing current from the rails. remember, dcc locomotives draw current whether they are running or sitting still.
Good analogy. Thanks, Jeffery.
I run a DC-only railroad, but were I to build a DCC railroad (or convert my DC to DCC) I would still want to be able to isolate tracks that I may use to store engines. I don't like the idea of power going to sitting locomotives.
Many years ago, operating on a DC club layout in HO with automatic train advancing in hidden staging tracks, the system malfunctioned and melted the drivers on my 2-8-8-2. An expensive and discouraging development!
My current system uses two turntables. One is fed by only one track and is just used to turn equipment. The other has nine storage tracks and an approach track. The approach track and bridge track are one block that is isolated and can be run from one of two throttles. The other nine engine parking tracks are all individual blocks, isolated and powered from one of two throttles.
If a power selector switch is left in a position other than centered ("off") an engine may creep out of the roundhouse unexpectedly! This is rather surprising when you are concentrating on the train you are running. I don't get upset when this happens, because this sometimes happened on the actual railroads, too. The result is an engine in the turntable pit, tying up all the other engines in the roundhouse until the mess is cleaned up. This was especially a problem with steam locomotives, that would slowly build up enough steam pressure in the cylinders to take off by themselves. Engines that did this were called "night creepers".
Les
What good information! Even more reasons to isolate.
"Night Creeper" would be a good name for a locomotive kept in a switcher house, isolated, and let out only on schedule--except times he comes out unexpectedly when small grandkids are watching the running of the trains.
Question:
Do both rail joiners have to be connected in order to have the necessary current for DCC power to work?
you only need to gap one rail for this to work. dc or dcc the wiring is the same. the on-off switch is wired around the gap, one side to the isolated rail on the siding, the other connects to the same rail anywhere on the other side of the gap. as a matter of fact, it can be connected directly to the dcc command station as long as you have the polarity correct. it can also be connected to any bus wire you may have. as long as the polarity is correct it doesn't matter. and if the polarity isn't correct you will know in a hurry as you'll have a dead short when you turn the toggle on.
Here's the added deal to this endeavor Ken: unless you buy rail joiners that have presoldered wires to them or have a terminal track for each section desired to be isolated, both of which are costly by comparison, and purchase switches that will accept spade style connectors that can be crimped, soldering is an essential skill to have if you wish to isolate a lot of sections of track.
Soldering is a skill that will come in handy for many aspects of model railroading, and it's not that hard to learn. Just practice away from the layout for a while first. You might even check to see if any of your local Community Colleges offer an evening course on soldering.
While it may sound counter intuitive, just remember to use a reasonably large (35 - 45 watts) iron when solding directly to rail. You want to be able to get on and get off as quickly as possible to avoid melting plastic ties. Save the 20 -25 watt iron for printed circuit boards and small wires.
My personal preference for track work is the 45W Weller 1140A 'Stained Glass Soldering Iron'. It was originally made by Unger, which was taken over by Weller. It has replacable heating cartridges that can be swapped out for higher or lower wattages. The cartridge has enough mass to hold heat when applied to the track. And the chisel tip fits nicely against the side of the rail, for attaching wires or soldering rail joiners.
Len
I love my Weller WLC100. One of the best model train (and for other things) purchases made. Makes me say 'why did I not get one earlier?' and 'why did I waste my time with Radio Shack 30-40W irons previously?'
The way this thread is going has got me thinking of another thread that may be helpful. How about a thread dedicated to suggesting some basic tools that a new model railroader wishing to move beyond the "plug and play" phase of model railroad construction?
Basic soldering equipment and supplies; basic power tools for building framework and working on/modifying models; basic measuring devices, etc. I think this would be useful for beginners wanting to take their hobby to the next level.
Les
Is this why you suggested that, Les, you sly devil... ;)
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,18705.0.html
jbrock,
You are giving me too much credit. I had forgotten about that 2011 post.
I'm glad you remembered it, though, as it still applies.
Les
It certainly does Les. I found it very comprehensive then as now. Thanks for the list :)