I may be kicking a dead horse, but I'm trying to restore some old rail cars I bought on eBay. (I'm beginning to see why they wanted to get rid of them.) Anyway, I thought I saw somewhere that there is such a thing as tools for reshaping the axle sockets on the trucks and the ends of plastic axles. Do any of you know whether there is such a thing, and where I can find them? I know I could buy new wheels and trucks, but I like to tinker a little, if I can. I think some of these old wheels would work if they had pointed axles instead of rounded.
I got to where I'm pretty good at changing the couplers and adjusting their height. I'm still learning how to deal with unsprung turnouts. Now I'm trying to learn how to deal with trucks and wheels. I discovered they are causing some of my derailing and dragging. And unwanted uncoupling.
This may help....
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,18567.0.html
It wakes that ole dead horse up everytime ???
Quote from: rufuswhite@gmx.com on April 25, 2015, 09:41:23 AM
I may be kicking a dead horse, but I'm trying to restore some old rail cars I bought on eBay. (I'm beginning to see why they wanted to get rid of them.) Anyway, I thought I saw somewhere that there is such a thing as tools for reshaping the axle sockets on the trucks and the ends of plastic axles. Do any of you know whether there is such a thing, and where I can find them? I know I could buy new wheels and trucks, but I like to tinker a little, if I can. I think some of these old wheels would work if they had pointed axles instead of rounded.
I got to where I'm pretty good at changing the couplers and adjusting their height. I'm still learning how to deal with unsprung turnouts. Now I'm trying to learn how to deal with trucks and wheels. I discovered they are causing some of my derailing and dragging. And unwanted uncoupling.
Give Micro-Mark a try as they sell all manner of things related to weight, coupler height and a tool called a truck tuner that does a great job on the reshaping or polishing of the axle boxes on HO trucks. Works with metal or plastic.
http://www.micromark.com/more-model-railroad-items.html?page=3 should be the last one at the bottom of that page. But search for it otherwise.
Cheers,
Chatham
What you need and are looking for is called a truck tuner,used to clean out and reshape the axle journeys.
The one from Micromark is best,Reboxx makes one also but it's just a tad bit short making it difficult to use continuous ( hard on the fingers)
Thanks, everybody. Looks like a wealth of information here!
Okay, I found the truck tuner at Micro Mark, but isn't there also a tool for working on the axles?
if your wheelsets have plastic wheels and axles, there is probably not much you can do with them. all plastic wheelsets usually have oversize wheel flanges that do not conform to nmra specs. they are cheaply made and may be out of guage as well. it is better to replace these. they are a well known source of derailments.
if your wheelsets have plastic wheels on metal axles, they probably conform to nmra rp25 specs, and as such can be used as is. get yourself an nmra standards guage, and make sure all wheelsets are within proper specs. the metal axles have needlepoint ends, and should work well in the truck frames. if they don't, using the truck tuner tool will ream out the truck journals and allow the axles to sin freely.
as another poster touched upon, but didn't go into detail, your cars may be underweight as well. gluing a few pennies inside the car body, centered over each truck, can help them stay on the track better.
All great info and tips.
Ruf are the trucks you have on these cars held in by plastic pins? Sometimes called "friction pins". Or held in by screws?
A word on how to handle plastic wheel sets: Throw into the trash.
SGT C.
weather plastic wheel sets and put them it a junk yard sense or make them flat car loads
Agree Matty :)
UP4014;
You want mine?
SGT C.
Indeed, most of my wheels and axles are plastic. I'll get some new metal wheel sets. I have more than one length of axles, so I'll have to do an inventory. After I get that truck tuning tool, and all new wheels, a lot of my anxiety and frustration should be eliminated.
Now, as far as weight is concerned, I have lots of pennies. Isn't there a guideline for weight? Like one ounce per inch of car length or something? I saw the formula somewhere, but I don't remember where. Most of the cars I have weighted, are about 4-1/2 ounces, and they seem kind of heavy. Maybe with the correct wheels they wouldn't need to be so heavy? I think I've been using weight in a futile effort to keep the cars on the track, in ignorance of the Plastic Wheel Phenomenon.
Some of my trucks are held in by pins, and some by screws. I don't particularly like the pins, but I don't know that they're causing any trouble. At least they're easier to deal with than those little microscopic screws. I saw where somebody said to fill the hole with glue, drill and thread a hole for a 2-56 screw, and use that to hold the truck on. Does that sound like a good idea? What glue would be hard enough to drill and tap?
Thanks for your reply Ruf.
Here is why I asked about the pins; it's much harder to make any height adjustments using the trucks when reusing the trucks with the plastic friction pins. So if I am going to begin this kind of project, what I do is get replacement trucks and then match them up with replacement wheel sets like you are doing. I also get 2-56 screws to secure the trucks. To fill the bolster hole, I use 2 sizes of styrenne tubing. After drilling the hole in the bolster big enough to accept the larger of the two, which is 3/16" I glue it in with model cement. I make sure I glue it in far enough to accept the screw I am going to use. Sometimes this requires me to remove then modify a little, the weight that comes with the car. After it dries, I trim off the extra tubing sticking out of the bolster. I then use the glue to glue in the smaller diameter tubing, 1/8" inside the 3/16", using the same method. When dried, I trim the same way. Some like to use solid 3/16" styrenne rod for this and then drill the hole, but I like that the hole is already there for me and centered. I file both ends to be level with the original bolster hole, then use a 2-56 Kadee tap in a pin vise. I do not tap the full length of the screw, just enough to get the screw going, this way the screw will also "bite" into the styrenne a bit, making it more secure.
I do this bc after using my Kadee 206 coupler height gauge, I have the option of raising the car height with a metal washer or Kadee fiber washer. You can also set the trucks using the "3 point method" which keeps it rolling on the tracks better. You don't have that option with reusing the trucks with the friction pins.
For older cars, I like to use Accurail Bettendorf trucks; they work well with Kadee 520 wheel sets. Sometimes I buy 100 ton trucks online. For this method I suggest you don't buy Athearn trucks bc they are meant to fit into the little nub that sticks down from the bolster hole as opposed to flush, which is this method. Sometimes the truck tuner is needed sometimes not. I just updated an old Life Life Industrial Gases car using this method and between that and given it some weathering, it looks pretty good :).
Weight: NMRA posts the guidelines. Basically, .5 oz for every inch of car + 1 oz. I use pennies on box cars as well, gluing them with tacky glue. I don't always meet the NMRA guideline but get as close as I can and that has been good enough for me; better than the starting weight of these less expensive cars.
I hope this helps. Please keep us informed of your progress :)
Hey Ruf;
Why not pick up a bag of bird shot-yeah, that's right-shot. What I used with a lot of success is balloons (I used un-lubricated condoms) fill them to the weight you desire, knot them... and glue them into place-word of caution; make sure the glue will not attack the balloon or...
One effect I got is loading these critters over the trucks-and I got a really nice solid "click" going over joints; and the best part-the loose-ness of the shot will seem to take up the "wiggle-wobble" some cars have.
SGT C.
I agree shot and bbs are good for other places harder to place a penny, outside of their great use inside of a boxcar, but have to point out, nothing cheaper to use than pennies. Most people have them in a jar or elsewhere, don't really use them for anything else and saves having to go out and buy rubbers and bird shot. ;) Pennies can also be cut with a tins snips if you have to "tweak" the weight. In keeping with what my good friend Jerry recently posted and reminded me of I have to give credit for the penny concept and cutting to Roger. :)
Pennies are actually a more expensive way to go, Jim; especially if you are willing to scour the "parking places" the morning after...
Seriously, take a condom, load it up with the desired weight, tie it off, and stick it into the cavity desired (get your mind out of the gutter...) and glue it. If you do this with just shot or b-bs , they will break out after a while and eventually cause a disaster-so do contain them.
On installing different size screws, body modifications, etc; I suggest that when setting up the screw, do it in a completely square/plumb setting; by that I mean, use a drill press, Bridgeport miller, etc. Don't fool with some half-baked Rube Goldberg set-up. This truck screw location and position is CRUCIAL for good operation-unless you have a penchant for lopsided running equipment!
Another thing I have "discovered," is when using that reamer, I will use it in conjunction with my moto tool. I use a shaft with a bit of rubber tubing on it, install the tool in the truck, and just touch the moto tool to it and release. Once you get the hang of this, you will find it to be quick and easy. Also, the tool will take care of only one side at a time, so keep track (pun??) of what you are doing.
Also, with rare exception, freight cars have 33 inch wheels on older stock, and on newer cars, 36 inch appears to be the going size. On passenger equipment, 36 inch is the norm.
For the narrow gaugers, I an not sure if such a reaming tool is available. Check your catalogues.
SGT C.
I think pennies are the cheapest way you can go. They are also easy to work with.
Sorry but I have to slightly disagree.
Re: Perpendicular screws.
The retaining screw does nothing but stop the truck falling from the car when it's picked up. In most cases, what maintains the truck centred on the chassis is the centre boss casting which goes up through the centre of the truck's bolster. The centre boss cast into the chassis. So, the truck does not pivot around the screw rather it pivots around the cast boss. The exception to this will be when you are replacing a missing plastic retaining pin. Then all I do is look in my box marked "Small Screws", where I toss all the small screws I can find, and look for a screw that just fits into the hole the plastic pin came from. I then just screw that screw into the pin hole. After all, we are dealing with plastic here and the screw will cut its own thread. I've even done that on metal chassis as the metal is just a light alloy.
Screws, by their nature, are never tight but always slack. One screw, I always use the "B" end screw is just, repeat just tight enough to let the truck easily rotate but not rock side to side. The "A" end truck retaining screw is left loose and only tighten enough to prevent the truck from become detached from the truck centring boss. One "tight" screw and one "loose" screw gives you a three point suspension and makes cars track better.
Re: Pennies.
Pennies are cheap but should always be glued along the centre line of the car and only on the inside of the car, not to the underside.
Cheers
Roger T.
Sarge, no one said anything about "scouring a parking lot for pennies". And I certainly don't go through that rigmarole and use all the methods and tools you mentioned to update a car and don't know anyone else that does. Sounds a bit over engineered. The ones I work on, using the method I painstakingly described, roll and track great. :)
Roger, no one suggested putting pennies on the underside. And who and what exactly are you disagreeing with?
Lots of good ideas here, y'all. I'm not grasping the three-point suspension concept yet, but maybe I will after I've tinkered with the trucks a little more. I couldn't get the truck tuner from Micro Mark because they are back ordered. Maybe later. Meanwhile I have two new Bettendorf trucks to experiment with and I have wheelsets ordered. After y'all mentioned bird shot, I remembered I have a pound or two of B-B's left over from my grandkids.
In addition to the method jbrock suggested for converting friction fit trucks, you can fill the hole with 4-minute epoxy. Let it set overnight (it says 4-min, but it gets stronger with a longer set up time), file any excess flat, then drill and tap for a 2-56 screw.
Both methods work and one may be simpler than the other, depending on the type of car and whether the body has been glued in place at some point.
Len
Quote from: jbrock27 on April 27, 2015, 06:38:40 AM
Roger, no one suggested putting pennies on the underside. And who and what exactly are you disagreeing with?
I took the comment "scouring parking places" to imply pennies were falling from cars therefore they were glued under the car. Misinterpretation on my part?
I don't agree with need for screws to be absolutely perpendicular. I think close enough is good enough. :)
Cheers
Roger T.
Ruf, put simply here is the scoop on the 3 point suspension method: the screw on one truck gets tightened all the way down till it don't move, then back off (loosen) the screw just enough to allow the truck to freely rotate, left and right. The other screw is kept looser, allowing the truck to not only rotate left and right but wooble up and down.
I took the comment "scouring parking places" to imply pennies were falling from cars therefore they were glued under the car. Misinterpretation on my part?
Don't know Roger; but probably. You'd have to ask Sarge. I interpreted his comment to suggest that somehow it was suggested that one searches parking lots for pennies to use as weights.
I do agree with you, that it is not hyper critical the screws that hold the trucks in, go in perfectly straight (of course the straighter the better). It is more important whatever material gets filed away from the bolster hole still leaves the surface even, so the car does not tilt when stitting on the trucks.
Len, I have seen the method you mentioned, previously, in places. I don't employ it bc I have found it leaves very little length (distance) for a screw to be mounted up the bolster hole, bc the car weight acts like a "stop". Then you can't tighten either truck screw down (even using preformed 1/4" 2-56 screws from RS). At least this is the case with box cars.
I prefer to take the weight off if it is in the way and either trim the ends back past the bolster hole to allow for the screw to come up from the bolster or drill a large enough hole at either end of the weight, right over the bolster holes so there is no interference with gluing the styrenne tubes there. I can always glue the weight back with 2 part expoxy and then add additional weight with pennies. Again, for a box car that is.
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on April 26, 2015, 07:26:10 PM
On installing different size screws, body modifications, etc; I suggest that when setting up the screw, do it in a completely square/plumb setting; by that I mean, use a drill press, Bridgeport miller, etc. Don't fool with some half-baked Rube Goldberg set-up. This truck screw location and position is CRUCIAL for good operation-unless you have a penchant for lopsided running equipment!
.
SGT C.
which begs the question: if you are going to the expense of using a drill press on your model railroad equipment, why bother trying to fix up cheap cars? a drill press isn't something most of us just happen to have lying around.....
a much easier solution it seems to me would be to look before you buy, make sure that what you are buying has decent trucks and body mounted couplers, then make any modifications necessary on cars that only need an upgrade not a total rebuild. there are plenty of old roundhouse, athearn of walthers/ train miniature cars on ebay or at the train shows, usually at prices competitive with the old junkers.
Jbrock - If I see a weight when doing the epoxy, I use a toothpick to push the glue down to where it can bond with the weight too. Then when I drill the epoxy for taping, I drill through the weight too. Then run the tap through the expoxy and the weight.
Len
[/quote]
a much easier solution it seems to me would be to look before you buy, make sure that what you are buying has decent trucks and body mounted couplers, then make any modifications necessary on cars that only need an upgrade not a total rebuild. there are plenty of old roundhouse, athearn of walthers/ train miniature cars on ebay or at the train shows, usually at prices competitive with the old junkers.
[/quote]
Excellent suggestion, well worth taking to heart. Don't buy junk, no matter how cheap it is, buy quality.
Cheers
Roger T.
I apologize Len, I am not following what you are suggesting ???
"buy quality". Yep, terrific, albeit, pretty obvious advice. But this thread is not about asking what to buy (the buy has already been made) but what to do with the items bought. I'll add that "quality", can have different meanings to different people. After all...
QuoteRuf, put simply here is the scoop on the 3 point suspension method: the screw on one truck gets tightened all the way down till it don't move, then back off (loosen) the screw just enough to allow the truck to freely rotate, left and right. The other screw is kept looser, allowing the truck to not only rotate left and right but wobble up and down.
So far, what work I have done mounting a truck to a car I have done with one screw right in the middle of the truck where there is one hole. So where does the second screw go, the one you keep looser? Or are we talking about two trucks, one just barely free to rotate, and the other left loose to wobble? I may come closer to understanding the concept, if we can just talk about one truck at a time. We could call them first truck and second truck unless there is a better name to use. Also, why is it called 3 point suspension? What are the three points?
the proper terminology would be a end and b end. the b end is the end of the car where the brake wheel is.
the method roger is talking about is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side. the 3 points of suspension then become the bolster of the a truck, and the wheels on each side of the b truck.
QuoteThe proper terminology would be a end and b end. The b end is the end of the car where the brake wheel is.
The method roger is talking about is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that it can pivot but not rock. The truck on the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side. The 3 points of suspension then become the bolster of the a truck, and the wheels on each side of the b truck.
All right then there now. That clears that up once and for all. Thanks. So I take it that the car should roll forward in a certain direction. I would guess that the b end should trail. Is that right? Is that the way it is with Real Trains? Break wheel on the trailing end? No brakes on the front (a) truck? That would make sense. When I drove the big truck, my trailer breaks were way more effective than my tractor breaks. When I didn't have a trailer, it was hard to stop.
Quote from: jward on April 28, 2015, 10:25:40 AM
the proper terminology would be a end and b end. the b end is the end of the car where the brake wheel is.
the method roger is talking about is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side. the 3 points of suspension then become the bolster of the a truck, and the wheels on each side of the b truck.
I did use 'A' and "B" end in my post on how to tighten screws. "B" end tight enough to pivot not rock, "A" end loose enough to rock.
However, I should have explained the "B" end is the brake wheel end. Sometimes I forget not everyone knows all the railroad industry's terminology.
Cheers
Roger T.
LOL :D!! What difference does it make, which truck it is that is the looser of the two? ::)
My apologies to you Ruf for my description not being clear enough for you to understand I was describing the process of how to tighten the screw for each of the two trucks. Mea culpa.
Quote from: jward on April 28, 2015, 10:25:40 AM
the method ...is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side.
Never would have thought to describe it like that ::)...
Quote from: jbrock27 on April 27, 2015, 12:13:55 PM
...the screw on one truck gets tightened all the way down till it don't move, then back off (loosen) the screw just enough to allow the truck to freely rotate, left and right. The other screw is kept looser, allowing the truck to not only rotate left and right but wooble up and down.
Comical
not everyone knows all the railroad industry's terminology
Personally, I don't view this as being essential to successfully running and enjoying model trains. :)
I hope I'm not belaboring the subject, but I'm aiming for a Thorough Understanding. So, it seems that it doesn't matter which truck wobbles, or what direction the car is rolling. Is that right? Also, what is the benefit of the 3 point suspension, as opposed to having both trucks not wobble? Or both trucks wobbling? Seems like wobbling would be a Bad Thing, even for one truck. I've had some cars literally topple off the track because of their wobbling. (I'll have to admit to also having them improperly weighted, making them top heavy.) (Made me laugh when it happened.)
Quote from: jbrock27 on April 28, 2015, 01:04:49 PM
Quote from: jward on April 28, 2015, 10:25:40 AM
the method ...is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side.
Never would have thought to describe it like that ::)...
Quote from: jbrock27 on April 27, 2015, 12:13:55 PM
...the screw on one truck gets tightened all the way down till it don't move, then back off (loosen) the screw just enough to allow the truck to freely rotate, left and right. The other screw is kept looser, allowing the truck to not only rotate left and right but wooble up and down.
Comical
jward's explanation is perfectly logical and correct, nothing humorous in it at all.
Cheers
Roger T.
Quote from: rufuswhite@gmx.com on April 28, 2015, 01:26:49 PM
I hope I'm not belaboring the subject, but I'm aiming for a Thorough Understanding. So, it seems that it doesn't matter which truck wobbles, or what direction the car is rolling. Is that right? Also, what is the benefit of the 3 point suspension, as opposed to having both trucks not wobble? Or both trucks wobbling? Seems like wobbling would be a Bad Thing, even for one truck. I've had some cars literally topple off the track because of their wobbling. (I'll have to admit to also having them improperly weighted, making them top heavy.) (Made me laugh when it happened.)
(1) Yes, you are correct when you say it doesn't matter what truck is 'tight' and which truck wobbles. But it makes sense to standardise on one end as it's easier to trouble shoot if there's a problem with the car tracking correctly.
(2) Doesn't matter which direction the car is moving. Besides, freight cars move in both directions. :)
(3) The 'Three Point Suspension' helps your freight cars track better and not wobble along the track.
(4) Your cars falling from the track because they are wobbling is because both trucks were too loose. Make one not wobble and one allowed to wobble will correct this tracking problem. See note (3) above.
(5) When you weight your cars, ensure the weight is as low as possible, like glued to the car's floor. For open cars, where the weight is visible, glue something like lead shot up inside the centre sill, which is usually open.
Cheers
Roger T.
Quote from: jbrock27 on April 28, 2015, 01:13:00 PM
not everyone knows all the railroad industry's terminology
Personally, I don't view this as being essential to successfully running and enjoying model trains. :)
No but it does help to know the 'correct' terminology when seeking advise. :)
Cheers
Roger T.
Quote from: rogertra on April 28, 2015, 02:04:54 PM
Quote from: jbrock27 on April 28, 2015, 01:04:49 PM
Quote from: jward on April 28, 2015, 10:25:40 AM
the method ...is to tighten down the truck on the a end so that is can pivot but not rock. the truck pn the b end is left a little looser so that it can rock side to side.
Never would have thought to describe it like that ::)...
Quote from: jbrock27 on April 27, 2015, 12:13:55 PM
...the screw on one truck gets tightened all the way down till it don't move, then back off (loosen) the screw just enough to allow the truck to freely rotate, left and right. The other screw is kept looser, allowing the truck to not only rotate left and right but wooble up and down.
Comical
jward's explanation is perfectly logical and correct, nothing humorous in it at all.
Cheers
Roger T.
Your'e right. There is nothing humorous about it at all...
Quote from: rogertra on April 28, 2015, 02:14:10 PM
The 'Three Point Suspension' helps your freight cars track better and not wobble along the track.
Cheers
Roger T.
Never would have thought to point this out either ::)...
Quote from: jbrock27 on April 26, 2015, 07:53:38 AM
...set the trucks using the "3 point method" which keeps it rolling on the tracks better.
...it does help to know the 'correct' terminology when seeking advise.
Cheers
Roger T.
I don't disagree. But I think having a concept and a halfway decent command of the English language goes a much longer way, especially when seeking advice.
All I was doing was tossing in my two cents-oh, and Jim; that ISN'T where I was taking that... By the way, might I congratulate you for pronouncing "rigmarole" correctly.
For my money, I have a drill press-not just hanging around-It gets used quite a bit. I do not, by the way, go out and by second-hand crap. I may come off as quite a snob, but I do not do blue-box type kits. No challenge. The kits I have-ALL of them-can be considered high-end type kits.
Roger, not all trucks mount out that way. I want the bolster screw to be as straight and plumb as I can get it-and using a drill-press is one way to do it.
Closing, whichever way you do it, it is your money. This HAS to grab you by the fanny in order for it to be rewarding; and a lot of frustration isn't any way for it to go. I have said it before; whichever way you choose to enjoy this hobby, to me, is your business.
SGT C.
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on April 28, 2015, 04:33:15 PM
Roger, not all trucks mount out that way. I want the bolster screw to be as straight and plumb as I can get it-and using a drill-press is one way to do it.
SGT C.
Yes, you are correct some trucks, usually the cheaper models, do not have the centre boss. Those are the ones that use the plastic push pin. However, I still find with those that a screw just screwed into the original hole works well without the need to tap the hole first. As I mentioned, it's just plastic so I see no need to tap a thread.
As the screw is never tight anyway, the bolster is free to level itself though every attempt should be made to drive the screw in vertically and, as I use the original hole, that's usually not a problem. But, as usual, YMMV. :)
Cheers
Roger T.
Wow did not realize I had to get a college degree in grammar to post on this board, guess I will have to post somewhere else.......NOT.
I do agree with the front trucks being able to swing more freely than the rear for tracking and stability. It's like your automobile, the front wheels turn the direction you want to go and the rear wheels follow. Try making a 1:1 auto with the rear wheels free and see where you wind up, ask Sid he should know.
Ruf, I can say this if you absorb half the knowledge I have from this board you will have one of the best running layouts around. And I Ain't Foolin' ya. Leave out the grammar class and we are good.
Quote from: rufuswhite@gmx.com on April 28, 2015, 11:03:21 AM
All right then there now. That clears that up once and for all. Thanks. So I take it that the car should roll forward in a certain direction. I would guess that the b end should trail. Is that right? Is that the way it is with Real Trains? Break wheel on the trailing end? No brakes on the front (a) truck? That would make sense. When I drove the big truck, my trailer breaks were way more effective than my tractor breaks. When I didn't have a trailer, it was hard to stop.
freight cars are bi directional. it really doesn't matter which end leads or trails. both trucks have working brakes on the real ones. remember, the current standard is a gross weight of 144 tons per car. you need all the braking power you can get when trains routinely run 10000-15000 tons. the a and b end designations are used by railroaders to identify parts and defects on the car. example, defect card for bent stirrups on the left side a end of car. or...replace air hose on b end of car.
we as modellers can readily adapt those terms for our own use.
Quote from: jbrock27 on April 28, 2015, 04:20:23 PM
...it does help to know the 'correct' terminology when seeking advise.
Cheers
Roger T.
I don't disagree. But I think having a concept and a halfway decent command of the English language goes a much longer way, especially when seeking advice.
Guilty as charged your honour. :(
I should have known better. Rats!
Cheers
Roger T.
Roger;
A lot of resin type kits do Not come pre-drilled. This is what ideal with. I have no problems. I just do what I have to do.
SGT C.
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on April 28, 2015, 07:24:11 PM
Roger;
A lot of resin type kits do Not come pre-drilled. This is what ideal with. I have no problems. I just do what I have to do.
SGT C.
Thanks for the update. :)
Cheers
Roger T.
...I still find with those that a screw just screwed into the original hole works well without the need to tap the hole first. As I mentioned, it's just plastic so I see no need to tap a thread.
Cheers
Roger T.
Agree. Not sure why anyone would bother to tap for a thread where there had already been a screw.
Quote from: Jerrys HO on April 28, 2015, 05:34:34 PM
Wow did not realize I had to get a college degree in grammar to post on this board...
I think that ship has sailed for you Bubba. ;)
Quote from: Jerrys HO on April 28, 2015, 05:34:34 PM
I do agree with the front trucks being able to swing more freely than the rear for tracking and stability.
...and speaking of boats, I think you missed this one-it
does not matter which truck does which. ;D
Guilty as charged your honour. :(
I should have known better. Rats!
Cheers
Roger T.
It's ok Roger, don't beat yourself up over it :D
Sarge, I don't need your plastic wheels, but I would be glad to take your 2 cents :)
And what? No points for mea culpa?
Len, after re-reading your post, I now understand you. I always found it more difficult to drill a hole through the weight while it is attached to the car and have found it easier to remove the weight (after marking it through the underside where I want the holes) and drilling through it. I have never found the adhesive the original manufactures used, to make it that difficult to remove the weight.