Could anyone recommend an HO scale bridge for a curved piece of EZ Track that crosses over a track beneath it? The top track is on a set of Woodland Scenic 3% risers about 4" above the foam board.
Bachmann offers one in O and N scale, but not in HO.
Ken, does this provide any helpful ideas?
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,24337.0.html
the easiest simplest way to do this, since you have 4" of clearance to work with, would be to buy an atlas plate girder bridge and turn it upside down. run your ez track curve across the flat underside of the bridge. it may not be strictly prototype, but it will get the job done.
The piece itself, I think, is a 9" straight section of 100code track. Will turning it upside down allow for a curved piece of EZ track to fit??
yes. right side up, the track has to run between the girders. upside down the girders will be below track level. this will give you a much wider bridge deck for your track.
You could paint a piece of sheet styrene black, slide it under the EZ-Track, then glue the girders from the Atlas bridge to it. Keep them far enough away from the EZ-Track roadbed to prevent sideswipes.
Len
Len, I'm afraid I can't quite follow this suggestion. I don't understand the sideswipe thing.
Here's a pic of the piece I'm thinking of:
http://www.amazon.com/Nickel-Silver-Girder-Bridge-Atlas/dp/B0006KSKLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1431081412&sr=8-1&keywords=atlas+plate+girder+bridge
There's also a Code83 version that's a couple of dollars cheaper. Although I'm running Code 100, it should work the same upside-down.
http://www.amazon.com/Nickel-Silver-Girder-Bridge-Atlas/dp/B0006KSKLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1431081412&sr=8-1&keywords=atlas+plate+girder+bridge
At least, that's what I'm thinking.
The girder bridge was a great suggestion :).
You may want to check Ebay for them, I have seen them cheaper there. I have also seen styrene sheets come in black.
Aren't there bridges/trestles/spans--something without track running through it--that would accommodate curved EZ track through it rather than having to flip it upside down?
Quote from: jward on May 07, 2015, 07:03:47 PM
the easiest simplest way to do this, since you have 4" of clearance to work with, would be to buy an atlas plate girder bridge and turn it upside down. run your ez track curve across the flat underside of the bridge. it may not be strictly prototype, but it will get the job done.
Hi Jeff;
In the "real world" of this hobby, a lot of latitude can be used; but the one prototype practice they use is to use girders in the "upside down" fashion you mentioned. I have seen this practice used where it looks like the track is "on top' of the girders.
also, to KD Grant, there are several good books on bridges and trestles written by modelers.
SGT C.
Hi Jeff;
In the "real world" of this hobby, a lot of latitude can be used; but the one prototype practice they use is to use girders in the "upside down" fashion you mentioned. I have seen this practice used where it looks like the track is "on top' of the girders.
also, to KD Grant, there are several good books on bridges and trestles written by modelers.
SGT C.
[/quote]
Have movie versions come out yet? :)
Seriously, though, any particular title you'd recommend?
Atlas produces several bridges including an inverted truss (deck truss). For those who use EZ-Track, if the EZ-track does not fit on the deck you can use one section of conventional sectional or flex track just to span the bridge and then go back to EZ-track.
Yes, on my bridge, there is EZ track on either side of the bridge. While a regular piece of track (modified a bit) spans the curved bridge itself.
For what it's worth, there are prototypes of curved tracks on bridges. Normally the bridge sections are straight, even when the track is curved. However, stone bridges can be curved just like the track.
I tried to hide EZ track on a bridge a couple of times. Have never been happy with the results and pulled the EZ track for the bridge section.
Regards,
Jonathan
Ken,
Like Jonathan said, straight bridge sections are normally used to support curved track. The girders on these types of bridges have to spaced further apart than for a straight bridge to keep long cars from sideswiping them.
You could do this with the Atlas bridge you're thinking about. You have to remove the girders from the straight track deck, and attach them to a scratch build deck wide enough for the curve track and any car overhang. Looking from the end, what you'd be doing is:
Stock straight girder bridge: |___| Modified for curves: |______|
Len
All this talk of EZ track and bridges reminded me of a project I never got around to... but still need to.
I have a loop on my layout that is about 90% EZ track. The photos below show a quick bridge I did with an old Model Power Bridge. I split the bottom of the bridge length-wise and rolled it over the EZ track, if you get my meaning. My intention was to cut the EZ track across the span and put in one of those fancy craftsman kit wood bridges. I guess I ran out of rountuits...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5094_zpssifdnkoi.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5094_zpssifdnkoi.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5090_zpsgm9zjiyo.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5090_zpsgm9zjiyo.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5091_zpsriern7zn.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5091_zpsriern7zn.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5089_zpskojzuryw.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5089_zpskojzuryw.jpg.html)
There's even ballast for goodness sake.
That bridge is now a little higher on my to-do list I think. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on May 08, 2015, 08:51:09 PM
...rolled it over the EZ track, if you get my meaning.
Sorry
Jonathan, but can you help me understand what you meant by this part?
Thank you for your help.
Jonathon, that looks like the 21st bridge outside of keyser. do you run western Maryland trains over the bridge?
Jward,
No WM, yet. I have wanted to add a few WM pieces, though.
jbrock,
The MP bridge came as one piece... already assembled. In order to fit it over the track, I had to cut the deck down the middle, turn the bridge sideways, slip the now-cut bridge deck over the installed track, turn the bridge upright, and install. I didn't take photos of the installation process as this was to be temporary. Difficult to describe, but a relatively simple operation. Hope this makes more sense.
When I replace it with a wood truss bridge, I'll take some photos of the old bridge so one can see how I cut the bridge.
Regards,
Jonathan
I ran into this Peco Plate Bridge kit:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Peco-HO-LK10-Plate-Bridge-Kit-p/pec-lk10.htm
It's just the sides of a bridge. You take care of the road bed and attach the sides to make it look as if it's one piece.
Thank you for the added explanation Jonathan. You're correct, difficult to describe in words :D. If I read you right, you cut a slit along the length of the bottom of the trestle so you could slide the trestle over the section of EZ track after you were able to ballast the EZ track.
Ingenius :)
Quote from: jonathan on May 08, 2015, 08:51:09 PM
All this talk of EZ track and bridges reminded me of a project I never got around to... but still need to.
I have a loop on my layout that is about 90% EZ track. The photos below show a quick bridge I did with an old Model Power Bridge. I split the bottom of the bridge length-wise and rolled it over the EZ track, if you get my meaning. My intention was to cut the EZ track across the span and put in one of those fancy craftsman kit wood bridges. I guess I ran out of rountuits...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5094_zpssifdnkoi.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5094_zpssifdnkoi.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5090_zpsgm9zjiyo.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5090_zpsgm9zjiyo.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5091_zpsriern7zn.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5091_zpsriern7zn.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5089_zpskojzuryw.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5089_zpskojzuryw.jpg.html)
There's even ballast for goodness sake.
That bridge is now a little higher on my to-do list I think. :)
Regards,
Jonathan
This is a good example of "bridgework" for several reasons, but I want to exemplify only one for my purpose.
A good many bridges were ballasted; in my experience, the only ones I have seen like this are girder, but that means nothing... anything is possible.
When they ballast the girder bridges, they usually secure the bottoms by steel, and pour concrete as a base; then ballast for laying the roadbed.
Oh, and the books I have referred to are:
Model Railroad Bridges and trestles (Kalmbach #33)
Bridge and Trestle Handbook [by Paul Mallery] (Carstens C79)
These two books should prove both enlightening and helpful.
SGT C.
Quote from: kdgrant6 on May 09, 2015, 07:35:52 AM
I ran into this Peco Plate Bridge kit:
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Peco-HO-LK10-Plate-Bridge-Kit-p/pec-lk10.htm
It's just the sides of a bridge. You take care of the road bed and attach the sides to make it look as if it's one piece.
That's pretty much what I was saying about the Atlas. Use the side girders with your own deck. With the rounded ends, the Peco would probably look better for a single span.
Len
Len;
I found a place for those "Atlas Bridge Units".
I have always liked the looks of the old street bridges built with trusses, and these puppies fill the bill exactly-I managed to get a "12'6"-clearance; good for the era I model. I drove Tractor Trailer long ago, pedaled New Haven and other tri-state area cities, so am pretty familiar with clearances based upon the "good old days"...
Anyone pedaling New Haven, or south around the viaduct, you have my sympathies...
SGT C.
Peco also has a Truss-Girder Bridge Sides kit, too.
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Peco-HO-Truss-Girder-Bridge-Sides-Kit-p/pec-lk11.htm?CartID=2
I don't know which one would be better. Is there a rule-of-thumb is regard to which one you'd see in terms of prototype?
I bet if you ask Peco or Atlas, they would tell you "Peco" or Atlas'...
SGT C.
Prototype, shmototype, Rule #1 applies above all else! :D
I agree, but I was not clear enough. I meant: when do you encounter Truss-Girder bridges as opposed to plate ones?
Grant;
I just looked at the site. Is it my imagination or do Atlas an Peco use the same die sets? I had a couple of humourous thoughts about that-must be the cynic in me.
SGT C.
Atlas puts track in theirs, at least in the ones I looked at. Peco offers just the sides.
Quote from: kdgrant6 on May 09, 2015, 10:51:39 AM
I agree, but I was not clear enough. I meant: when do you encounter Truss-Girder bridges as opposed to plate ones?
Generally the length of the span, the depth of the bedrock, the soil characteristics, the weight that the deck must support, the budget, and the time period in which it was built all factor into the design used. Some areas would have more of certain types of bridges than others but there is no hard and fast rule. Each bridge has its advantages and disadvantages so you can pretty much use any design that was utilized during the time period you are modeling.
Quote from: kdgrant6 on May 09, 2015, 10:58:30 AM
Atlas puts track in theirs, at least in the ones I looked at. Peco offers just the sides.
The Atlas side I refer to are just that-sides; intent was, I suppose, to go on the bottom. As I said, they make dandy (circa 40-50) vehicle bridges.
SGT C.