What is better in terms of detail and performance? There is a 2-10-0 still my local hobby shop for 270 dollars including tax, should I buy the 2-10-0 or 2-8-0? I cannot make up my mind! I want them both! I currently am making money by mowing lawns for 17 bucks a week (I can't get a job yet) which one would better fit my budget? also the 2-10-0 is discontinued so should I get that one first? Also I heard the 2-10-0 has a bell that is made of actual brass, is this the same case on the 2-8-0? I also want to make enough money over the summer to buy an alco 2-6-0, which is on modeltrainstuff for 130ish dollars. Please help!!!!!!!!!!
The 2-8-0 runs a lot better out of the box but still needs work. The 2-10-0 has an underpowered motor and a mechanism engineering error allows the side rods to bind on the cross heads. Both of these problems are correctable, upon which the 2-10-0 is a very desirable engine.
That being said, to me the 2-10-0 is a much better detailed engine. I like its looks because several of my favorite roads had them. I have 5 of them, with two waiting remotoring. The remotored ones run like champs, crawl like ants, and are my best switchers. I have 7 2-8-0's, they all run like champs after receiving new tsunami decoders. Both need CV adjustment for optimal performance.
The 2-10-0 probably won't be offerd again for awhile. When that became apparent I bought 3 in addition to the 2 that I already had, wish I'd bought a couple more.
If I had to predict, I'd say that the 2-6-0 will probably be around longer than the 2-8-0.
Out of all of them the sound value 2-6-0 runs the best out of the box. I have 2, both got new tsunami decoders though.
Trainman 203 - When you changed to the Tsunami decoders, did that give you the silky smooth start motion typical of a steam loco? I have tried several CV changes, but my B'mann Mogul wants to go from 0 to 2 mph right now! My Rivarossi Hiesler will crawl so slow you almost can't see it move. Same for my B'mann Shay. Dave
try these cv settings: cv2- 0, cv209 - 50, cv210 - 4, cv116 (chuff) - 150. With a light steam Tsunami mine crawls with those settings. You may need to adjust slightly differently up or down but those oughta do it for you.
The settings for the sound value decoder were different but adjusting those same cv' s on it got the engine to crawl too. I am sorry I did not keep them to pass on. Setting cv 2 to 0 helps from the get go.
I just program mine using JMRI, which you can download for free.
You don't need to know what all the CVs are nor what they do, JMRI knows them all so you just go by name, like adjust chuff volume, adjust bell rate, adjust bell level without knowing the CVs. Makes life much easier.
Cheers
Roger T.
Trainman203: When you changed to Tsunami decoders, where did you find the 8 pin in-line plug that is required to match the loco's 8 hole receiver under the cab? Or did you rewire the loco to put in the standard NMRA 8pin (4 x 4) plug? I have four of these 2-6-0's with the OEM " sound value" sound, one of which I managed to fry several of the wires from the decoder( due to an undetected short) and I've been looking for a replacement. I know the Tsunami decoder (probably one of the TSU 1000's) which would be appropriate, but I haven't been able to find the plug to match the locos.
we are going a bit off topic here, i want to know what's better, the 2-8-0 or 2-10-0! in terms of detail and performance! also, what do you think are the chances of the 2-10-0 coming back?
The 2-8-0 is the better puller as for looks and detail their pretty much even,chances of the Decapod being done again is slim at best but I guess the old saying goes ,never say never.
also how long does anyone think the 2-8-0 and 2-6-0 will last? I WANT THEM ALL! so many lovely locomotives but so little money! another gorgeous locomotive i would love to own is the 4-6-0, i don't think i ever will though. also i started a previous topic about the 2-10-0 and if it could be brought back, i got a reply from yardmaster, here it is: "There are no plans to bring it back at the moment. Perhaps sometime in the future..." do the periods at the end imply something? the way it is written makes it seem that way!
Quote from: sedfred on June 01, 2015, 11:46:20 AM
also how long does anyone think the 2-8-0 and 2-6-0 will last? I WANT THEM ALL! so many lovely locomotives but so little money! another gorgeous locomotive i would love to own is the 4-6-0, i don't think i ever will though. also i started a previous topic about the 2-10-0 and if it could be brought back, i got a reply from yardmaster, here it is: "There are no plans to bring it back at the moment. Perhaps sometime in the future..." do the periods at the end imply something? the way it is written makes it seem that way!
I wouldn't know about the 2-6-0 personally as I don't own one. However I do have 2 of the 2-8-0. One is a Spectrum line Rock Island one as well as a Standard line Union Pacific one and the Spectrum line one runs like a champ and has served as a reliable member of my railway for about 6 years and continues to run like new. The standard line version however is a good engine like the Spectrum version but it could benefit from a soundtraxx decoder in terms of slow speed performance. I however expect them both to last for a long time. My dad had an old smoke unit fitted Reading 2-8-0 from bachmann from around the 1970's or 1980's and it spent around ten or fifteen years in a box and when I discovered it in a box in the basement and placed it on the track and supplied power to the old motor, it came to life and worked well. I made the mistake of trying to get it to pull a train that was too heavy for the old engine though.
I have three 2-10-0s, one of one version and two of the second version, their valve gear differs, and more than eight 2-8-0s.
One of the 2-10-0s I picked up last year.
If you do a search on the 2-10-0 you'll find people have had lots of issues with this model. On every one of the 2-10-0s I've had trouble with the wiring harness. The wires seem poorly soldered to the circuit board and pull free at the slightest opportunity. On the two older ones, the gears disengaged owning to the poor casting of the metal chassis, an issue that has been mentioned on this group before and it doesn't help with the motor being somewhat loosely mounted. Then there's the binding valve motion issue, driving wheel pick up issues and a few olther reoccuring problems.
With the 2-10-0 is seems to be one of those models that either runs great right out of the box or quickly develops problems, usually in the 'run in' period.
I do like my 2-10-0s but they can be finicky.
Personally, unless you are comfortable taking steam apart, I'd stick with the 2-8-0 but I cannot comment on the "Standard" version only the Spectrum version as I haven't purchased any "Standard" versions, only Spectrum.
Cheers
Roger T.
Sedfred there is never enough money for model railroading. If I were you, here's what I'd do:
Buy the 2-10-0 right now and sock it away for future shopping to get it to run right. The pleasure is deferred but once that engine is right you will love it. I'd get it now since it probably won't be re issued for a pretty long time. I don't look at eBay but they may appear there from time to time. That engine won't last long in the store I'd get it now, if you can stand investing for the future like that. Be mindful that the remotoring and decoder work needed to be a great runner will cost a couple of hundred if you aren't up for doing it yourself, I myself am not even after years in model railroading, I pay people to do stuff like that.
Then ,I'd get the 2-6-0 next because they run great out of the box. They can, like all engines, be tweaked some but you'll get immediate great operation. This would be your reward for waiting on the decapod.
The. 2-8-0 is last in the acquisition sequence because it will probably be around a pretty good while. It has been a very popular engine for probably about 20 years now. The current version needs a new decoder to run well but once that's in, it is a killer operator.
Let us know what you do.
Sedfred I have 5 of the 4-6-0's in both versions. The DCC / sound versions are killer right out of the box. I agree they need to come back. When they were discontinued about 4 years ago they sold out everywhere in a month or less as I recall. I hurried up and bought two more in the last week, I do recall getting the very last one at Walthers.
One engine that's still around is the Baldwin 4-4-0. I have a couple and the only thing wrong with them is that the sound is too quiet, can't be turned up,enough. They are beautiful pieces though.
Whenever I see all these nice discontinued engines it makes me wish I had started the hobby earlier! I have decided I want the 2-10-0 but I just hope I will still have time to buy the 2-8-4, 2-8-0, 2-6-0, and the 0-6-0 porter with side tanks. After that my voracious appetite for
steam locomotives will be temporarily satisfied. Not literally though or I would probably choke!
I have:
2 of the standard version 2-8-0
1 of the Spectrum 2-8-2
1 of the Spectrum 4-4-0
1 of the 2-8-4
1 Spectrum Sound (my only sound one) 2-10-0
and a Spectrum f40 that I got because it was NJ transit, even though I almost never use it
As a side note, I also have an IHC 4-6-2 that I've gotten running well
I love the 2-10-0, got it for about 180. That said, it has it's fair share of issues. It is VERY sensitive to dirty track, the running gear binds up rarely, and the pony truck took fiddling with to get it to stop coming off the rails. it also has trouble crawling in reverse for some reason. Even with all that though, I love it.
I had another one non-sound and it was problematic from the get go, I did a few repairs to get it running but eventually it broke down again and I sent it in, it was replaced with that 4-4-0. It is my understanding that the early runs were touch and go, either it worked or it didn't.
My favorite locomotive of them all is the SY, the 2-8-2. Those are hard to track down but they are very nice. I'd love to make it my second sound locomotive but I cannot afford the decoder and speaker. College really puts a strain on the funds. I'd love to track down a 4-6-0 as well, and maybe a 2-6-0 though I'm not sure, it is a little small for me (the 4-4-0, beautiful as it is, rarely gets run as it just doesn't fit).
What I really need is to make a display shelf in my room to put some of my locos on. the yard is really congested considering i have 8 locomotives on a 4*8 layout!
I wonder if any of the engines on my wish list are likely to be discontinued before I can get my hands on them, I will probably get 3 new locomotives this year, maybe 4 if I'm lucky. I will get the 2-10-0, then the 2-6-0 with my own money. Then I will try to get the 2-8-0 for Xmas and with my Christmas money buy the 2-8-4. Do you think any of these engines be discontinued by then?
When it comes to locomotive purchases, I always go for the fleet look rather than the one off look.
I have several of every wheel arrangement my railway needs rather than one of everything.
For example, I have over eight 2-8-0s that I've modified with three types of tender. Four with the original tender, two with the original tender shortened by three scale feet and two with clear vision tenders from P2K 0-8-0 switchers. The engines with the original tenders will eventually be used as helpers while the modified tenders will be used on way freights.
I have at least two or three of each of the heavy and light 4-8-2s, four 4-6-0s in two versions, three kitbashed 2-10-0s with two version of valve gear, two Athearn 2-8-2s, two Athearn 4-6-2s, three heavily kitbash IHC 2-10-2s and finally two Alco 2-6-0s. I may have lost count as most of these locos are still packed away awaiting sound decoders
The only engines I have one off are a P2K 0-8-0 and 0-6-0 switcher and an Alco S4 diesel switcher. I have single switchers as it wasn't and still isn't uncommon to see, in smaller yards, only one of a kind switcher working.
At one point, just after they were introduced, the only steam I had were three or four of the Spectrum 2-8-0s as no other rtr plastic steam loco came anywhere near their detailing and running quality.
As for diesels? Lets just say I have multiple copies of GP7s, GP9s, FA-1s, FA-2s, RS-1s, RS-2s, RS-3s, RS-18s (Kitbashed from RS-11s) F3As and F7As and F7Bs. Most of these diesels operate in permanent consists as they are used mainly on through freight and through passenger trains. These through trains run from staging yard to staging yard and, in the case of the through freights, only set out and lift cuts of cars from the main yard.
My advice to modellers hoping to be somewhat prototypical in their modelling is to select an era, select a prototype, buy only locos with your prototype's road name and only locos that your chosen prototype actually used and, if you model the caboose era, buy only cabooses with your chosen road name.
In the long run, this will save you money and regrets.
Even if you decide to freelance, like I did, still follow what the prototypes in your chosen modelling area and era did. If you read the project model railroad articles they build for "Model Railroader" magazine, you will notice they also stick to the above guide lines, which is why their project model railroads, even the dreaded 4 x 8s, look so good. Their motive power is not a mish-mash of eras and road names.
However, if you just prefer to buy and run what you like, that's your choice, there are no laws in this hobby. I'm just writing this as an example of my personal guide lines that I think have helped me select only the models that fit in with my model railroad's era and locale and therefore, in the long run, have saved me money and stopped, for the most part, impulse buying.
Cheers
Roger T.
i mainly want to use locomotives that were used in the 1950's, but i want to buy engines from different eras as i am not a prototypical kind of guy, i want to make a layout that could represent different time periods therefore i could use everything from tiny 4-4-0s to ES44ACs. some people might not agree with that but one guy in my hobby shop said no one should tell me how to use my layout. i agree with that, i am not saying anyone is trying to do that but it would be slightly annoying. of course i won't run 4-4-0s with gevos. but i will still collect them both. at the end of the day i just enjoy my hobby and that's all that matters.
Sedfred, don't forget that the Bach Man is about to offer what looks like a very nice USRA 2-8-2. I'd get that instead of the 2-8-4. USRA engines are prototypes that many, many roads had. The 2-8-4 is a very specific Nickel Plate engine. The 2-8-2 will look better on a small layout, and probably be mechanically better too.
All the Bach Man's steam engines except the 1880 4-4-0 are suitable for use right up to 1960, and beyond that if you model a short line.
When will the 2-8-2 be released? If I like it enough I may buy it instead of the 2-8-4, although I will try to get the 2-8-4 still. I wonder what the detail will be like in comparison to the Broadway limited 2-8-2, I do really like the bli one! I hope the bachmann one will be just as nice. Will it probably be comparable to the 2-8-4 in terms of detail? Also it seems like some of the people on this forum seem to be billionaires, it seems like rogertra has a couple of every type of locomotive ever made!!!!!! I
would love to have that many locomotives! I'm sorry but I couldn't help but notice that!
Quote from: sedfred on June 02, 2015, 11:59:10 PM
When will the 2-8-2 be released? If I like it enough I may buy it instead of the 2-8-4, although I will try to get the 2-8-4 still. I wonder what the detail will be like in comparison to the Broadway limited 2-8-2, I do really like the bli one! I hope the bachmann one will be just as nice. Will it probably be comparable to the 2-8-4 in terms of detail? Also it seems like some of the people on this forum seem to be billionaires, it seems like rogertra has a couple of every type of locomotive ever made!!!!!! I
would love to have that many locomotives! I'm sorry but I couldn't help but notice that!
sedfred.
Believe me, I'm far, far from a billionaire. Remember, I started purchasing my current Spectrum, Atlas, P2K, Kato and Genesis locomotives back in the late 1990s, when I had a pretty good paying job. It takes time to build up a fleet of locomotives. Even back then, I was very selective on what locomotives I purchased and yes, they were ones from the "better" manufacturers and only ones that would have been seen in the area I model and suitable for the era I model. I never purchase anything just because it's "cool" or looks good. If it's not good for 1958, I just ignore it. That's why I do not have any 2-8-4s nor any articulated steam as they didn't run in my area. Ditto any diesels that were not around in 1958 or, again, did not run on my area so, no Baldwins for example. Ditto for freight cars, passenger cars and even down to road vehicles and the lettering fonts on buildings and road markings and sign posts.
Now I'm semi-retired and have a very limited budget so my purchases are even more selective. Last loco I purchased was a 2-10-0 and that was the in Spring of 2014 and mainly because it was going for Can$150, IIRC, an excellent price.
Like many people I'm waiting the release of the 2-8-2 and, if it comes up to the details and running quality I have come to demand of my locos, then I'll buy two to go along with my two Genesis 2-8-2s but if it falls below Spectrum standards, then I'll give it a miss.
This is why I encourage people to pick an era and a region rather then just run a mish-mash of equipment. It makes you focus on what you really 'need' to purchase and cuts down on impulse buying thus both saving you money and directs you into making wise decisions on what you do purchase. Oh, and always purchase quality, not the introductory or toy level models and you will not be disappointed a few months later when the train set gear gives up the ghost.
Cheers
Roger T.
That makes sense and I only started the hobby a year and a half ago. I am now starting to move away from buying starter sets and am now buying individual locomotives, I hope that my starter set stuff lasts long. My 0-6-0 has worked fine without any problems the whole time, as well as my other stuff. How can i distinguish between toy like and quality models? By any chance would the 2-8-4 and 2-6-0 be considered quality models or should I pass on those? I have seen people who say they are low quality junk and some people saying that they are awesome, is it kinda a hit or miss thing? Is it either you get a good model or ya don't? Also I do want to model the late 1950s, I have a sw1500 in burlington northern scheme but the locomotive is from the 1960s I think. Do you think it too far off from my era?
sedfred,
As you are relatively new, I offer what I have discovered over the years.
All locomotives from all manufactures require a certain amount of 'tinkering' to make them run smoothly. The 0-6-0 is generally considered one of those entry level locos. However, it is a well engineered model, and with some added pickups in the tender, it can run very well. I use mine for everyday use. They keep on truckin'...
Even Spectrum level locos require little tweaks. I have 6 2-8-0 Connies which I use regularly. They run great after little adjustments here and there. I have representative models from the first Spectrum Connie with white connectors, to the Sound onboard versions, to the latest standard DCC versions. All are great models that perform well. Can't say enough good things about the 2-8-0.
The 2-8-4 is likewise a great model. I installed a Tsunami in it and never had a problem after adjustments. I ultimately sold that one as it didn't fit in my scheme.
Can't speak to the 2-6-0 and 2-10-0 as I never owned any. I suspect (and have read) they, too, require a little work to get them running well. I won't comment on the big locos, as it appears you are looking to stay small.
After a little tinkering experience, you will find most locos can be made to run well.
Regards,
Jonathan
like with most, i have a 2-10-0 i had to do some tweaks to, but once that was fixed(contacts were creating a short from bowing downward) it ran just as well as the 2-8-0. I would have gotten another 2-10-0 but since i model a Class 1 Railroad they are a bit slow for it, and the only 2-10-0s B&O had were from obsured lines and were quickly sold or retired(they were also not Russian Decapods).
I like the one I got, I need to replace the headlight in it tho, it burnt out.
I also have 5 of the 2-8-0s, only work done to them was customization(Changed the headlights to high headlights on all by 1, and added details)
Quote from: sedfred on June 03, 2015, 09:24:01 AM
How can i distinguish between toy like and quality models?
Price is one way.
Quote from: jonathan on June 03, 2015, 09:45:59 AM
All locomotives from all manufactures require a certain amount of 'tinkering' to make them run smoothly.
I don't agree as I have not found this to be the case. A lot is dependent on the manufacturer and the model. Many models run fine with no issues right outta da box.
Quote from: jonathan on June 03, 2015, 09:45:59 AM
After a little tinkering experience, you will find most locos can be made to run well.
I can agree with this statement. The key is being
competent in tinkering abilities. For example, knowing which way brushes are positioned in certain motors, which wires go where, what one side of the loco does vs the other, what a tender does or does not do, wheel gauge, etc. Concepts are important.
They do but IIRC, the Broadway Limited Decapod is a model of a PRR 2-10-0, a VERY different beast than the small russian 2-10-0. Don't get me wrong, I'd love to have a 2-6-6-2 (though I have no means of running one) but the models are NOT the same.
Bmann;
I have three standard gauge articulated engines; two are from Bachmann; one is by Mantua; all are gems! (I also own a PFM 2-6-6-2 in HOn3). I installed "Tsunami" sound in all of them, as soon as I received them, and one fine day, will find time to refine the parameters of each...
Aside from greasing and oiling the drive components, I have never had to "tinker" with them-or much any Bachmann product I own, as they are happy little cretins right out of the box, for that matter.
I, in my capacity as a modeler have heartily endorsed Bachmann's "Spectrum" line, and am sorry to see it ended, opting instead, for what comes down to being a lesser quality product to market; albeit a good little product nonetheless. I personally believe it is a bad move on their part, but then again, I am just a dumb-assed electrical contractor; what would I know about their business?.
I also own similar product from several other manufacturers; and, seeing their quality get better, I wonder where the logic in this move really is. I'd love to find out.
I will, however, make a case: to see Bachmann produce a small locomotive like an 0-4-0 A-6 (Pennsy), even with what will be Bachmann's lesser quality. This particular model has been done by several companies; the best-in my opinion- being by John English (Bowser).
I believe this particular model would be well-received, even though it wouldn't necessarily be "Spectrum" line; the drive rod system, I am sure, would be better than that of others of lesser quality.
Rich C.
SGT C.
I agree on the SY...Beautiful loco, though not much of a puller...I use it around the yard mostly...
Has anyone beside my "Americanized" an SY mike? Photos perhaps? Hey Roger; what have you got there?
Rich
SGT C.
Some tourist road in New England did it to a prototype SY, maybe the "Valley" railroad? Made it a replica of s New Haven engine. PF
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on June 07, 2015, 12:12:04 PM
Has anyone beside my "Americanized" an SY mike? Photos perhaps? Hey Roger; what have you got there?
Rich
SGT C.
Rich.
Sorry buddy, I've thought about it but never did do anything.
Cheers
Roger T.
Roger;
I have two; one has never come out of the carton, and probably some cold snowy day this coming (and it is...) winter...
Rich
Wouldn't dream of it, I love how it looks (same for the 2-10-0 actually). Don't get me wrong, I get why some people Americanize em and have tons of respect for how well rogerta did on his decapods (I can't recall ever seeing pics of your SY's rich) but I adore the look of the little thing.
i have one question, not for a particular person but anyone who knows, does the 2-10-0 have multiple whistles? i have seen videos of them and some roadnames have different whistles, one has a deeper whistle which i like better but the one i want has a less preferable whistle, can i change it to the other one?
Quote from: sedfred on June 07, 2015, 05:03:01 PM
i have one question, not for a particular person but anyone who knows, does the 2-10-0 have multiple whistles? i have seen videos of them and some roadnames have different whistles, one has a deeper whistle which i like better but the one i want has a less preferable whistle, can i change it to the other one?
The 2-10-0 has three available whistles.
1) Reading 6 Chime.
2) Baltimore & Ohio 3 chime
3) Colorado & Southern No. 801.
Cheers
Roger T.
Sedfred, what road name is the decapod you are getting? Or what road would you want it to be? I've studied steam whistles for years , I can help you pick out the most prototypical one. Of course, you can always just pick out the one you like best.
To me the Reading 6 chime is the most typical American whistle . It's sort of mis named, actually sounds more like generic 5 chimes used all over the country on almost all roads. I model the Missouri Pacific and use it on many of my engines. The B&O 3 chime is an older whistle, and of a sound mostly found before WWI and in the east and south. I only have it on a couple of small engines lettered for southern roads. The C&S 801 is a really coarse deep steamboaty 5 chime, you can hear the exact sound on the Milwaukee Road an old railroad movie on YouTube called "Danger Lights". It's my least favorite of those three, and the short blasts are very widely spaced, making good signaling difficult. I use it from time to time but always go back to something else after awhile.
You can listen to the sound samples of all of Soundtraxx 's whistles on their we site. You can easily change the whistle using cv 115. We can tell you how if you need it.
I have mine set to B&O 3 chime I think, I rather liked the 801 whistle but the short whistle had some issues. Actually, my favorite Tsunami whistle is the CNJ 3 chime but only a full medium steam decoder has that, the built in one does not. If I ever get the money to put sound in my SY 2-8-2, that is the one I'm putting in. (Actually, that and a Reading 6 chime were the ones it has carried most frequently during its time on the Bel Del.
Trainman203, The 2-10-0 i want is the erie one, the reason i am writing the reply like this is because i couldn't
figure out the quote thing for the life of me. i do not know a thing as i am a silly newbie! also this is kinda off topic but my username has nothing to do with right said fred. it's something i accidentally typed. and my name isn't fred either, just saying for future reference so no one accidentally calls me fred.
It is just in good nature chief. When I see your handle, the first thing I think of, is Right Said Fred. If it is truly bothersome to you, just give the word and I won't refer to you as such any further :D
it doesn't annoy me, i just don't want people thinking it came from that band or whatever. i just want people to know that i came up with it by myself. you can still call me that if you want.
Sedfred it is not silly to be a newbie. We all were once, and we all asked the same questions. What ever you want or need to to know just ask and one of us will help you as best we can.
I'm going to find a photo of an Erie decapod, see what kind of whistle it has, and tell you what would be the closest Soundtraxx whistle sound.
https://www.google.com/#q=erie+2-10-0+&imgrc=pTa45VwCR_AHIM%253A%3Bundefined%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fmaywoodstation.com%252FERIE2435LittleFerryNJA.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.maywoodstation.com%252Fhistoricalphotos2.html%3B600%3B322
https://www.google.com/#q=erie+2-10-0+&imgrc=VA4fZ9qN8cZhIM%253A%3Bundefined%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fmaywoodstation.com%252FERIE2490LittleFerryNJ1938.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.maywoodstation.com%252Fhistoricalphotos2.html%3B615%3B277
Sedfred these are sort of fuzzy but I see what looks like a short stepped top whistle which is probably a cast iron 5 chime, made in the thousands by locomotive appliance companies. Their tunings, by virtue of individual cell ("chime") height variations, varied, but for now either the Reading 6 chime or the C&S 801 could be close.
http://www.soundtraxx.com/dsd/tsunami/playsound.php?s=sw7
http://www.soundtraxx.com/dsd/tsunami/playsound.php?s=sw23
I really like both of those whistles. Now I just have to pick between then. How do you change the whistles? I think I might just switch them once in a while. One month I'll use the reading 6 Chime and the next month use the c&s one. Also I swore I heard something about the locomotive coming with another smokebox front. I think it said it also has one with a headlight in the middle of the smokebox. Is this true or did I make it
up in my mind?
What kind of DCC system are you operating with? Will it allow cv changes.? Sedfred if you run with DCC you simply must have a system that lets you change cv settings of everything, not just whistles. Once we find out if you can do it, I'll show you how, it is easy, a process that gets easier as you do it. Don't let the hundreds of cv's bamboozle you. I only use about 8 or 9 and I have great prototypical sound and operation. FYI, I change my whistle frequently , some times during operating.
Check the Bach man's decapod parts list.
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=66_68_158
Doesn't look like a smoke box front is available separately. You might call Bachman repairs. They may have a junker around they can cannibalize.
What we really need is a simple guide as to how to adjust CV's to smooth operation at low speeds.
Quote from: Irbricksceo on June 08, 2015, 07:41:45 PM
What we really need is a simple guide as to how to adjust CV's to smooth operation at low speeds.
If you have a more than an "entry level" DCC system, something like NCE or Digitrax, then download and install JMRI.
No need to know anything about CVs. JMRI offers simple menus like "Select Whistle", "Adjust Chuff Rate", "Adjust Bell Volume", simple menus like that. There's no need to know what CV you are adjusting, JMRI already knows that for multiple brands of decoders, including the ones used by Bachmann. In fact, it even detects the make and model of decoders you are using. Nothing could be simpler, only you must have more than and entry level system, unfortunately it will not work with Bachmann's Dynamis DCC system. If you are using Dynamis, then you need to learn what CV do and which ones to change.
Cheers
Roger T.
Quote from: rogertra on June 08, 2015, 08:04:59 PM
Quote from: Irbricksceo on June 08, 2015, 07:41:45 PM
What we really need is a simple guide as to how to adjust CV's to smooth operation at low speeds.
If you have a more than an "entry level" DCC system, something like NCE or Digitrax, then download and install JMRI.
No need to know anything about CVs. JMRI offers simple menus like "Select Whistle", "Adjust Chuff Rate", "Adjust Bell Volume", simple menus like that. There's no need to know what CV you are adjusting, JMRI already knows that for multiple brands of decoders, including the ones used by Bachmann. In fact, it even detects the make and model of decoders you are using. Nothing could be simpler, only you must have more than and entry level system, unfortunately it will not work with Bachmann's Dynamis DCC system. If you are using Dynamis, then you need to learn what CV do and which ones to change.
Cheers
Roger T.
I have the NCE procab. How do you connect that to JMRI? Anyway, I know most of the CV numbers, but fiddling with every possible value gets tiring real quick. The worst thing is chuff rate though. I got my 2-10-0 to sync at most speeds after spending the better part of an hour creating a custom speed curve but all that goes out the window with cars or on any non level track.
Sorry about this but I may have been somewhat vague before posting, but I actually don't have dcc, I just wanted to know for future reference because I want go convert to dcc soon, I was planning on getting a bachmann dcc controller but after hearing about them and seeing this forum I want to get something else. I will try to get a dcc controller this year. I heard there is still sound in dc but it's rather limited. What does a sound loco do when you are using dc, does it make random noises?
Quote from: Irbricksceo on June 08, 2015, 08:24:08 PM
Quote from: rogertra on June 08, 2015, 08:04:59 PM
Quote from: Irbricksceo on June 08, 2015, 07:41:45 PM
What we really need is a simple guide as to how to adjust CV's to smooth operation at low speeds.
If you have a more than an "entry level" DCC system, something like NCE or Digitrax, then download and install JMRI.
No need to know anything about CVs. JMRI offers simple menus like "Select Whistle", "Adjust Chuff Rate", "Adjust Bell Volume", simple menus like that. There's no need to know what CV you are adjusting, JMRI already knows that for multiple brands of decoders, including the ones used by Bachmann. In fact, it even detects the make and model of decoders you are using. Nothing could be simpler, only you must have more than and entry level system, unfortunately it will not work with Bachmann's Dynamis DCC system. If you are using Dynamis, then you need to learn what CV do and which ones to change.
Cheers
Roger T.
I have the NCE procab. How do you connect that to JMRI? Anyway, I know most of the CV numbers, but fiddling with every possible value gets tiring real quick. The worst thing is chuff rate though. I got my 2-10-0 to sync at most speeds after spending the better part of an hour creating a custom speed curve but all that goes out the window with cars or on any non level track.
Here's the instruction for an NCE system: -
http://jmri.sourceforge.net/help/en/html/hardware/nce/NCE.shtml (http://jmri.sourceforge.net/help/en/html/hardware/nce/NCE.shtml)
Sedfred if you have the money, an NCE power cab would be a great investment. I have one I got for a little portable layout I used to have. The only thing about it is that it isn't self contained, it is components designed to be installed on layout fascia. But it is super easy to learn. I rigged mine up in a tackle box so it can be easily carried around.
Even though some folks do, by virtue of some squirrelly method I don't know, I would not run a DCC engine on a DC layout. It is real easy to burn your loco up. Wait until you have the DCC.
What do you mean by "burn up"? I heard that some dcc ocomotives run fine on dc, my spectrum 4-4-0 works good one dc. I don't see why the 2-10-0 wouldn't, even if it wouldn't would it be possible to convert it to dc? Does anyone know how the 2-10-0 would run on dc? Would it actually damage it? I really want the 2-10-0 but you may have scared me a little!
I ran DCC Locomotives on DC for years, as has Jonathan I think. Now, I never ran a sound loco on DC but I've seen it done.
I defer to those with more experience, I may have it backwards, running DC engines on a DCC layout.
I do run DCC locomotives on my DC layout, as well as DCC/Sound on DC... occasionally.
Have had no adverse affects so far. The dual mode type decoders that Bachmann uses are suppose to be able to handle this. In my experience they do.
I also run those same locos on my club's DCC system at train shows. So, these locos go back and forth with no ill symptoms.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: Trainman203 on June 09, 2015, 10:30:43 PM
I defer to those with more experience, I may have it backwards, running DC engines on a DCC layout.
Now that is 100% true, while some systems say they support a DC locomotive on address 0, it is NEVER a good idea. running DC locomotives on DCC will, sooner or later (probably sooner), burn out the Motor.
i have all the information i need, i think it is time to put this thread to rest, unless anyone still has a few more things to say. activity on the thread is dying out so i think it's time to give it the axe.....
Let us know what you decide to do. In a new thread of course.
Sedfred,
In what part of the country are you mowing lawns? There have to be some model railroaders nearby that would pay handsomely for a nice lawn and a modeling friend!
Welcome to the hobby and best of luck with your search!
Scott
i mow lawns in brantford because that's where i live, i mainly mow lawns for my dad and grandparents but my city has a model train club near the train station.
Where is Branford, Sedfred? We are from all over the country and the world here.
oops i forgot to say it's in ontario canada, also i hope this isn't spam but i have a youtube channel i think some people might like to check out: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFaIPRxnT2Y0I4IrsPRp07A?spfreload=10. it is a railfan channel. i hope i am not advertising or spamming. just thought someone might want to check it out! just decided to say that since this thread is pretty much over.