It's been a long dry spell of no train shows. Plus, been busy with life, but I have managed to knock out several new boxcars. As usual, these are craftsman kits. I try to upgrade them as I learn new techniques along the way.
Since Scalecoat seems to be the only model railroad paint Company left, I have gotten used to their paint products. Actually I rather like their boxcar red better than the old Floquil boxcar red. For those who still like to paint their own stuff, Minuteman Models bought up Scalecoat and now carries their paint products. Thankfully, there is still a source for train paint. :)
Anyway, here are the cars:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0290_zps7ts7m8vg.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0290_zps7ts7m8vg.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0291_zpsbeoh2sdm.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0291_zpsbeoh2sdm.jpg.html)
These are "flat" kits--meaning the main parts are a series of flat panels that are assembled to make the box shape of the boxcar. Getting it all to fit smoothly, and look square, is a bit of a challenge. Seams are sometimes visible, too:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0293_zps186dg2oo.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0293_zps186dg2oo.jpg.html)
I'm torn between the types of trucks these days, so I did a little of both.
I have been playing with chain lately (40 links per inch). It's pretty tiny stuff. For the brake cylinder and clevis, I drill a #80 hole and insert some .008" brass wire to attach the chain:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5247_zpseeqif4yi.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5247_zpseeqif4yi.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5249_zpshreejhmb.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5249_zpshreejhmb.jpg.html)
For perspective, the fingernail clipper is the one used for babies. Dads, you'll know what I mean:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5253_zps7s2plrin.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5253_zps7s2plrin.jpg.html)
Looks like this before it's painted:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5233_zpsy0nn3qqt.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5233_zpsy0nn3qqt.jpg.html)
For future rolling stock, I'm going to replace the plastic chain on the bell cranks:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0286_zpsxk8vgp5e.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0286_zpsxk8vgp5e.jpg.html)
I can drill a #80 hole in the bell crank and make a hook to secure the chain:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0282_zpsyopbuhjt.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0282_zpsyopbuhjt.jpg.html)
Even at 40 links per inch, the chain looks a bit large, but I can live with it:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0279_zps98jurzzp.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0279_zps98jurzzp.jpg.html)
Hope this is useful to anyone to who likes playing with super tiny parts.
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum: If one clicks on the photograph, one will be linked to the photo in photobucket. Where it is possible to expand and getter a better look at the details... Just sayin' jv
These guys:
http://www.traincat2.com/d_detailparts.htm (http://www.traincat2.com/d_detailparts.htm)
Have 52LPI chain.
Len
Great work Jonathan. Thanks for sharing.
Quote from: readingrr on October 04, 2015, 10:38:18 AM
Great work Jonathan. Thanks for sharing.
I can't add any more!
Jonathan said, "Since Scalecoat seems to be the only model railroad paint Company left, I have gotten used to their paint products."
Badger (Walthers Mfg# 165) and Tru-Color Paint (Walthers Mfg# 709) also have railroad colors.
A chart of the Badge colors available can be seen at: http://www.modelflexpaint.com/PDF/Railroad%20colors.pdf (http://www.modelflexpaint.com/PDF/Railroad%20colors.pdf)
A list of the Tru-Color paints, airbrush ready and brush ready, can be found at: http://trucolorpaint.com/products/ (http://trucolorpaint.com/products/)
Tru-Color also has a handy list of which of their paints to use for various railroads, time periods, and car types at:
http://trucolorpaint.com/products/ (http://trucolorpaint.com/products/)
I find the pigment in the Tru-Color paints is finer than Testors 'Model Master' paints, so lays "flatter" over car details and is less likely to fill them in.
Len
Thanks for the kind words, guys.
Yes, these are the precursors of the PS-1. 500 were initially built and sold to Pere Marquette, UP, CGW, NKP, B&LE and Wheeling and Lake Erie. If I recall correctly, these were made and modified between 1938 and 1946. I tossed the instructions which had the history of the cars included. I will finish this series by building the CGW and PM cars.
As far as chain goes, I can barely work with the 40-lpi. I remember a vendor at the last train show who had some 50-lpi chain. Perhaps I'll give it a shot. Even with huge magnifiers, it's difficult to thread wire through the chain, or drill through those tiny parts... Not getting any younger. ;)
I should have qualified about the paint. I'm a rattle-can guy. I heat up the cans and shake like crazy to get as fine a mist as possible. So Scalecoat is about the only option left for me. Model Master (Testors) is OK for black underframes or primer. I will probably never get into the airbrush systems. By the way, the Scalecoat cans have a great nozzle that puts out paint finer than any other can I have ever used.
Wayne, you did some nice work on your car modifications... Really spruces up those RTR cars.
There's a train show coming up this month. I intend to look for a nice weathering powder set. I have some 40-50 cars that need some age on them. Been putting that project off too long. Time to learn a new skill...
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan;
You can get 50LPI from (I believe)Micro-Mark and "Bluejacket Models".
Hope you have good eyes, my boy.
Rich C.
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on October 05, 2015, 01:08:26 PM
Jonathan;
You can get 50LPI from (I believe)Micro-Mark and "Bluejacket Models".
Hope you have good eyes, my boy.
Rich C.
Would that be "Bluejacket Shipcrafters" (bluejacketinc.com) of Searsport, Maine?
Jon - I just love SAL box cars. Back years ago I had brass models of their round top cars. At a train show I actually found an old Athearn metal car - lots of fun to assemble.
I think you need to add a little color to your consists - why not do a CN car with the Maple Leaf heralds. When I was growing up on the west side of Manhattan I used to bike down to the big NYC yard (that no longer exists.) Often there were several CN Maple Leaf cars - some with yellow doors, others with green doors. I know that the colors meant that the cars were for special lading, like newsprint. anyway a CN car with yellow or green door sure would like nice in one of your trains. Oh, and by the way, I also liked the CP cars with the script writing and the slogan, "CP Spans the World. Oh, and I remember the debut of the jade green NYC cars with the cigar band herald. Just some suggestions - keep up the fine work.
Thanks, Woody. You are absolutely right! Over the years, I have gathered a few pieces that didn't involve red or boxcar red, like these...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0009_zpspsq4cq3q.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0009_zpspsq4cq3q.jpg.html)
Notice the maple leaf. ;) These are shake-the-box, RTR, or inherited pieces.
Yet I haven't found any resin kits that have inspired me. I know Westerfield used to make some kits that required bright colors. In fact, I have considered buying one of those fancy Heinz Pickle Car kits. The decals are certainly colorful. Pricey kits though, if you can find them. The search for paint colors would be an adventure.
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum: It's now dawning on me that I have become a detail junky... closely related to a rivet counter. Swore I wouldn't become one, but I'm not happy unless I can do this to a car:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0230_zpsfxlgxbdz.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0230_zpsfxlgxbdz.jpg.html)
God help me...
If you get tired of red/boxcar red, but want to stay with a solid color, you could always do a string of 'REA' green boxcars and reefers.
Minor brake rigging point, in times past (maybe they still are) 1:1 scale brake rigging diagrams were done as if looking down through the deck of the car with "X-ray vision". Someone at Athearn didn't realize that, with the result that the molded on rigging of many 'Blue Box' kits is a mirror image of what it should actually be.
Len
Jonathan:
With regard to that Canadian Nat'l eight-hatch reefer, try one of F&C's. I did those maple leaf decals as three-part overlays-and yes-I was careful! And yes, they came out good. Lucky me.
M. Daskalos: Yep-that is the one; right in Stockton (Searsport) Maine. Have you ever been to that shop? My God; what a place to see!!! And you will never meet nicer people. Actually, both are correct-but boy, those chains are murder without a GOOD magnifier! A while back, I was doing several tugs, lighters, work barges, etc.; for the seaport that will (someday?)be on my layout, and decided to order some chain that had the centre crossover (split-links). This stuff is great to look at...
Rich C.
Wayne;
Boy, you'd better believe that last comment!!! As a natural born klutz, there are few things in life I have been that careful about-and got right. The three-part to which I referred was (1); the maple leaf; (2); the herald script; and (3) the box. I love the looks of that herald, and have gotten many compliments on it. I have two more from F&C that are waiting for the CN grey. This winter. Yes...
Rich C.
There's a lot of variety for people modelling up to the early sixties.
A jade green NYC box car wouldn't fit into Jonathan's time frame.
Living in Manhattan I often saw plenty of cars from "up north." When I started in HO while in college I purchased one of those grey Athearn CN reefers - I'm sure they sold a lot of them. I know that I had several - all with the same number!
Jon - keep up the splendid work.
does anybody know of other railroads that used doors of different color to specify what the lading would be?
Aside to Mr. Bachmann - maybe Bachmann could do a limited run of box cars from the post war era - sort of like what Lionel did with their colorful box cars that they did in the fifties. Call them a collector's run and people will snatch them up thinking that they'll be worth the price of a new car in forty years!
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on October 11, 2015, 08:54:13 PM
M. Daskalos: Yep-that is the one; right in Stockton (Searsport) Maine. Have you ever been to that shop? My God; what a place to see!!! And you will never meet nicer people.
Rich C.
Haven't been. Hadn't thought about it until I revisited their website last week, saw they offered some ship modeling classes. (by skillset and disposition I'm a better ship modeler than I am a model railroader). Looked up the place on Google Earth and saw it is in a pretty nice setting. It might be worth my while sometime to go on a combined vacation/class/boondoggle.
Manuel
I've been experimenting with f-stops (aperture) with my relatively new DSLR. I have a special lens for close ups. Havent quite perfected the technique, yet. Here are some extreme close ups of the subject cars in this thread:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0275_zpservuqk5s.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0275_zpservuqk5s.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0268_zpssxkuzv1j.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0268_zpssxkuzv1j.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0264_zpsvvfp3k7s.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0264_zpsvvfp3k7s.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0257_zpsk46utqdc.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0257_zpsk46utqdc.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0252_zpsoqyrhnj3.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0252_zpsoqyrhnj3.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0251_zpsohxyxzks.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0251_zpsohxyxzks.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0240_zps47ojsobh.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0240_zps47ojsobh.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0238_zpsy0fijyca.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0238_zpsy0fijyca.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0233_zpsvqbfpsbs.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0233_zpsvqbfpsbs.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5218_zps6k9usjlz.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5218_zps6k9usjlz.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5215_zpsow19naqj.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5215_zpsow19naqj.jpg.html)
Regards,
Jonathan
Jon - are all the cars the same basic red? Will you weather any of tem?
Super work!
I'm going thru my boxcar red phase. 😀 Started with Floquil, then moved on to Scalecoat II. I have enough paint left to build three more cars. I may turn to reefers next, as they are colorful. I have more than enough hoppers and gondolas.
Yes, my intention is to get some powders and start learning to weather with some RTR cars. Don't want to ruin all my resin cars. Hopefully, I'll find a style I like and weather ALL my rolling stock.
Thanks!
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on October 18, 2015, 05:18:38 PM
I'm going thru my boxcar red phase. 😀 Started with Floquil, then moved on to Scalecoat II. I have enough paint left to build three more cars. I may turn to reefers next, as they are colorful. I have more than enough hoppers and gondolas.
Yes, my intention is to get some powders and start learning to weather with some RTR cars. Don't want to ruin all my resin cars. Hopefully, I'll find a style I like and weather ALL my rolling stock.
Thanks!
Regards,
Jonathan
I just use automotive red oxide primer for my boxcars, any brand will do and, in fact, I have several brands I keep a can of. :)
Once weathered, I challenge anyone to tell me my boxcar red boxcars are painted the wrong colour. :)
Cheers
Roger T.
Not me, Roger; not me, eh?
Rich C.
Take a look at the Pan Pastels at this site http://www.fiferhobby.com/html/weathering_powders_and_supplie.html. I have used them and they are really good for weathering.
Roger - the term box car red is like saying "a big dog." Once I saw a Southern boxcar that was a pinkish color due to the weather and I remember seeing CN cars that were more brown than red.
My concern with spray cans is the paint attacking the plastic. I can recall old old Floquil xylene based paints that would destroy plastic.
That's why I transitioned to only acrylic paints a few years back.
Len
Quote from: Woody Elmore on October 27, 2015, 09:58:19 AM
My concern with spray cans is the paint attacking the plastic.
Quote from: Len on October 27, 2015, 12:05:58 PM
That's why I transitioned to only acrylic paints a few years back.
Len
Many quality spray paints, such as Krylon and Rustoleum, will specifically state and are safe, for plastics. Have used them on plastic loco shells for example; no issues. ;)
I appreciate the compliment. Will have to do some research. I'm still not sold on an airbrush system, though I do see the quality increase in paint jobs using air.
So... I didn't find any 50 LPI chain at the train show last week. I went ahead with my original project using the 40 LPI. Admittedly it looks a bit oversized. However, with everything being so tiny anyway, the boost in detail was worth it:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5273_zps9fy6ztys.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5273_zps9fy6ztys.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5274_zpssufnnay1.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5274_zpssufnnay1.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5278_zpsekvzqxzl.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5278_zpsekvzqxzl.jpg.html)
I cut a clevis and drilled a hole in the end to attach to some wire. Gives a more realistic impression of the bell crank chain attaching to a rod... I think anyway.
Regards,
Jonathan
Great stuff and detail, as usual of course. I can only begin to imagine the time you must put into these projects.
What'd you ever do to beef up your bench-work, to keep it from derailing trains when bumped into?
Thanks! And no, I never did add additional anchors to the layout. So I've been lucky. Bumping hasn't become a problem.
Regards,
Jonathan
You're welcome.
That's good.
Woody, Len Brock, et al;
Floquil had a product called "Barrier". which worked as sort of an "invisible protective shield..." for polystyrene V. Organic lacquer. I have used this and other like products when using Floquil-and still have some of the Floquil line hoarded away.
Jim; I have not used finish can colours; but have sprayed primer-CAREFULLY-on rolling stock. One doesn't really have to be all that fastidious with this; just lightly spray, let it sit for about a week and then give 'er hell.
My one gripe with cans is that you have little control over what happens-and I have had one or two nasties-blobs attacking my model... so that I normally stick to my Paasche brushes.
Rich C.
I like using spray paint. Works well for me and what I am doing.
Quote from: Woody Elmore on October 27, 2015, 09:58:19 AM
Roger - the term box car red is like saying "a big dog." Once I saw a Southern boxcar that was a pinkish color due to the weather and I remember seeing CN cars that were more brown than red.
My concern with spray cans is the paint attacking the plastic. I can recall old old Floquil xylene based paints that would destroy plastic.
That's why I use whatever can of 'red oxide' I happen to find. The actual colour of the boxcar doesn't concern me provided it's a shade of so called 'boxcar red'. I'm not interested if it's prototypically correct because, as you point out boxcars, thanks to weathering, can be anywhere from nearly pink to brown. Plus, I weather my cars so again I get all shades of 'boxcar red' depending on how I weather the car.
As for damaging the plastic? Never experienced it. All you have to do with the automotive sprays is apply it in really light coats as the spray comes out much faster than an airbrush and if you not careful, will go on too thick and or form runs. If that happens, straight into the coffee can of paint stripper I keep handy.
Check out the cars in the links provided in the sig and see what you think of spray bomb freight cars.
Cheers
Roger T.
Do you, will you, only use 'automotive', can spray paints, Roger?
Quote from: jbrock27 on November 04, 2015, 09:26:17 PM
Do you, will you, only use 'automotive', can spray paints, Roger?
Yes, they do the job for me.
You may wonder why I picked black for my freight diesels and all my steam. Because black also comes in automotive colours, both flat and gloss.
Usually I use flat paint as it tends to run less. Where I'm going to decal, I give the model a shot of Testors Glosscote. Makes decalling a lot easier.
Once decalled and weathered, they get a spray of Dullcote.
I don't believe in shiney, out of the box equipment. Even my passenger cars get a light weathering on the trucks, running gear and roofs.
My passenger diesels are re-decaled CPR units in the block lettering scheme.
Cheers
Roger T.
Quote from: rogertra on November 05, 2015, 12:20:54 AM
Quote from: jbrock27 on November 04, 2015, 09:26:17 PM
Do you, will you, only use 'automotive', can spray paints, Roger?
Yes, they do the job for me.
You may wonder why I picked black for my freight diesels and all my steam. Because black also comes in automotive colours, both flat and gloss.
Cheers
Roger T.
I don't really, but I do wonder why you would only use 'automotive' spray paints? Why not walk into a place like say, Canadian Tire for you (Walfart for me) and while you are getting dog food, an oil change and some Cheetos, walk into the Paint Department and buy some of the Krylon or Rustoleum, non automotive specific, spray paints I mentioned on this topic back on October 27th? They also come in both gloss and flat black. AND, get this, they also have a variety of other flat colors.
Quote from: jbrock27 on November 05, 2015, 07:09:58 AM
Roger T.
I don't really, but I do wonder why you would only use 'automotive' spray paints? Why not walk into a place like say, Canadian Tire for you (Walfart for me) and while you are getting dog food, an oil change and some Cheetos, walk into the Paint Department and buy some of the Krylon or Rustoleum, non automotive specific, spray paints I mentioned on this topic back on October 27th? They also come in both gloss and flat black. AND, get this, they also have a variety of other flat colors.
[/quote]
When I say "automotive" I'm just using that as a generic term for primer. I guess that was misleading.
I do use the brands you mention, Krylon and Rustoleum and buy them at Canadian Tire.
Sadly, Canadian Tire doesn't sell dog food nor Cheetos so that involves a trip to Super Store, next door. :)
Cheers
Roger T.
Quote from: rogertra on November 05, 2015, 09:50:28 AM
When I say "automotive" I'm just using that as a generic term for primer. I guess that was misleading.
Cheers
Roger T.
Yes, it was very misleading. Thank you for clarifying.
Quote from: rogertra on November 05, 2015, 09:50:28 AM
Sadly, Canadian Tire doesn't sell dog food nor Cheetos...
Roger T.
Really?!? Because when I punch in the postal code for Vancouver Island to bring up a Canadian Tire flyer/add, the closest one (1KM away) is for Gordon Head Victoria, BC and there is dry dog food listed right there. Can't confirm the Cheetos, but I can't imagine a store that sells all that, doesn't sell Cheetos too...
In the US, we have Home Depot, Lowes, or Walmart for all your painting needs. I use a primer, available at any of those stores:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5280_zpsn6wgdu1c.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5280_zpsn6wgdu1c.jpg.html)
I left off the brand name, in case a photo of it would violate some rule.
It works reasonably well. This is an old kit that makes a Heinz Pickle Car, I hope:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5282_zpshkhunwog.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5282_zpshkhunwog.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5283_zps84prczoc.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5283_zps84prczoc.jpg.html)
We'll see if the decals are still viable... (fingers crossed).
For the color coats, I am willing to pay the extra shipping for Scalecoat spray paints. They are still available... and I think they go on better than the old Floquil paints I was so attached to.
Regards,
Jonathan
Alas, no more brick and mortar hobby stores within a reasonable distance.
Of those 3 stores, I find Walfart the cheapest and Home Depot to have colors not found in Walfart.
I recognize that can/brand ;D. That brand also puts out a can that can be used as a "dullcote". It's white, got the 2X on it an says: "Ultra Cover Matte Clear". I am preetttttty sure, they also make a similar can that is "Gloss" (I just have never used that one, at least, not yet) ;).
Wayne;
Ref to your post a while back: For some reason, every time I sprayed lacquer sans some sort of "pre-coat" (primer, barrier, etc)
I wound up with a glossy finish-which was pretty undesirable. Barrier did take care of crazing, caused by "bare-back" finishing, as well as my "expertize". SO...I use barrier; then primer. It does work well. For me.
Rich C.
Wayne;
I once had a discussion with a really good pianist, and we got into Benny Goodman's old piano player, Teddy Wilson; and he remarked that Teddy Wilson is depressing. After looking at your great craftsmanship, I now know what he meant...
Keep up the good work, Doc.
Rich C.
Nice photos, Wayne.
Yes, the car is an early refer. Thus, there were no hatches up top. I call it a "pickle" car because of its billboard markings; the giant pickle and "57 Varieties". These cars were nearly gone by 1930, but I just like the way it looks... Or will like it if all goes well.
Regards,
Jonathan
Yep, the truss rods are all one continuous piece of fishing line. That seems to be the way to go. I wasn't so careful with the paint so you will probably be able to see the line passing through the turnbuckles.
Well, the painting went fairly well... no runs or blank spots. Here are my next three cars, with wet paint, getting ready to be locked up for a couple days:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5288_zps0yfwe1ku.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5288_zps0yfwe1ku.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5289_zpsf5ftxqaa.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5289_zpsf5ftxqaa.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5291_zpsdmqaq1zo.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5291_zpsdmqaq1zo.jpg.html)
Underframes are ready to go:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5298_zpspphmkr9m.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5298_zpspphmkr9m.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5301_zpspiq35mmf.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5301_zpspiq35mmf.jpg.html)
BTW, like you, Wayne, I have enjoyed detailing r-t-r cars. Some of them are nice and deserve to be made into nicer models. I'm on a craftsman kit run right now because I'm trying to use up a large can of boxcar red. I actually had two cans. I can't believe how many cars can be painted with one can of scalecoat paint. After these three cars, I am more than ready to move on to scenery or locomotive repair... something new.
Regards,
Jonathan
What's the "goop" you are using to secure the fishing weights?
Jonathan
My sentiments exactly! Three years ago, I "wintered" in my shop... I remodeled, repaired, built about 40 reefers. When I was done, I built myself a manhatten, looked 'em over, and that was that in the car dept. for a while. I still have twenty of Don Tichy's reefers. What was interesting was when my friends asked me what I am doing, and I would tell them I was doing reefers...
I wonder if you-or anyone else, for that matter, knows who may have bought the moulds and castings from "Branchline Trains". In their catalogue, Bill had listed 4-wheel pax car kits. I had bought about seven or eight sets, and wish I had more. For their cost, these worked up to a great truck. My thought is to (eventually) take the heavyweight pax cars I have, shorten them, and use these trucks.
I have found that either 5/8" or 3/4" hex nuts make dandy weights for house cars-two of them per car works out well.
Rich C.
;D ;D The goop is JB Weld, 30-minute, industrial strength epoxy.
I prefer Devcon, clear, 5-minute epoxy--but all my usual haunts don't seem to carry Devcon any more. I don't know why (sic)...
Don't know what happened to Branchline. They may still be around. Don't recall ever building one of their kits.
Regards,
Jonathan
Thanks for the response Jonathan and you as well Wayne. I had previously come across your tutorial for making your own lead weight molds; very resourceful and clever. I now have an idea for all those banned lead fishing sinkers I have :).
I like to use 2 part epoxy when gluing a car's stock metal weight to the plastic frame and find that Tacky glue works well when adding weight in the form of such things as pennies or fishing weights, when I am securing those on top of car's stock metal weight or on the inside of a hopper that is going to be covered (or the bottom of a hopper where the weight can't be seen).
So Wayne, it is possible to get good pulling power from only one powered truck?
BTW Jonathan, I find clear 2 part epoxy inexpensive at a store called Big Lots. Don't know if they have them in your part of VA. They are a step up from a "dollar" store, which probably also has inexpensive 2 part epoxy. Is there a reason you prefer Devcon? I never thought of any difference between one brands 2 part epoxy and another. Never had anything but success with the least expensive stuff I could find.
For things I want to shape, drill holes in, tap for screws, etc., I always use the JB Weld. Once it's set up for a day or two, I find it can handle those things better than most other two part epoxy.
For holding weights, etc., I use the clear two part that comes in a double barrel syringe. It hold fine, and it's not quite as obvious in situations where the inside of a car might be seen. There are a couple of different brands, I just get whatever's cheapest when I go looking for it. Most often that's 'Big Lots' (We actually have one here!), 'Roses', or 'The Dollar Tree'.
Len
Quote from: Len on November 08, 2015, 07:30:25 AM
For things I want to shape, drill holes in, tap for screws, etc., I always use the JB Weld.
Len
Oh I agree 100%. JB Weld (traditional cold weld variety) works great for something you are going to shape, file or sandpaper over and also tap for a screw such as mounting a truck screw or coupler box, but it is not something I would use to hold weights in a car when I can use inexpensive 2 part epoxy from brand X for that job.
We do have Big Lots here. I will have to check there for the Devcon. I prefer it because it's economical and comes in tubes that are big enough to last a while. The JB Weld stuff is great, but a bit pricey for the tiny tubes and a bit of overkill for my applications.
Anyway, here is the old-timey refer with the first set decals applied. So far, so good. The stem of the pickle disintegrated, but I can do a little paint striping to fix:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5304_zpsfaiwzws7.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5304_zpsfaiwzws7.jpg.html)
If the rest holds up as well, I should be OK.
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5319_zpsku5lu46o.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5319_zpsku5lu46o.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5310_zpsixusdem6.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5310_zpsixusdem6.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5309_zpsc403zryg.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5309_zpsc403zryg.jpg.html)
Do you use 'Solvaset', or something similar to get your decals to mold into the groves of the scribed siding?
Len
Quote from: jonathan on November 08, 2015, 06:48:22 PM
...Devcon. I prefer it because it's economical and comes in tubes that are big enough to last a while.
Nothing is more economical than brand X from Big Lots or the "dollar" store. I actually prefer to go through it faster using smaller tubes for much less $$ I don't want to keep 2 part epoxy around for longer than I need, the longer that stuff is kept around, the more difficult it can be to get the 2 compounds out of those syringes.
Jonathan, You do nice work. Who's to say what color a box car should be. Is it one day out of the paint shop, or six years out. I have two B&O wagon top box cars. The instruction sheet on one of the car says the cars can be any thing between red and orange, depending on the age.
Agreed! I am now in the process of scribing all the grooves. Then another coat of solvaset goes on. Hope this car turn out alright. I think it's a true keeper so far.
I like your work, as well Wayne... the photography, too. I've just started playing with lighting a camera angles.
While I'm still finishing the reefer, here's few shots of the NYC car I just finished... using my basic camera. I like these kits in general, but this one has rivet details that are a bit overdone... too bumpy for me. Anyway, it's still a nice car:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5333_zpszucrtnlg.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5333_zpszucrtnlg.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5327_zpsp8equq2v.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5327_zpsp8equq2v.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5324_zpsns6enzql.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5324_zpsns6enzql.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5323_zpsj3cofjbb.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSCN5323_zpsj3cofjbb.jpg.html)
Regards,
Jonathan
OK, finally used up most of the boxcar red paint. There might be enough left for one more car, but I'm not in the mood to build one. :)
This car turned out pretty nice despite the challenges. On the left of the pickle, you can see where I had to hand paint the stem and the white stripe around said stem. Also, the car is only 4 1/2 inches long. The details are tiny. And the decals wanted so badly to fall apart on me. whew
Anyway, enough excuses here is my last boxcar red car:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0034_zpsqwkoovce.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0034_zpsqwkoovce.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0040_01_zpsfpxscuxz.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0040_01_zpsfpxscuxz.jpg.html)
Regards,
Jonathan
Wonderful work on all these cars, almost enough to want to start a backdate to the 1920s and 1930s!
Most interesting that Jonathan hand-painted the stem and border on the end of the pickle; I can imagine him not even using a brush for the border, but something like a toothpick dipped in paint to get the control needed! I should know, I've done that myself.
One other trick I once did was to use a white pencil to mostly duplicate some chalk markings by a conductor on a caboose on the C&O. He was a strong union man, and chalked in large letters his local hall initials and numbers on his car.
Thanks, J3a!
Regards,
Jonathan
Must congratulate everyone on these excellent boxcars etc.. Makes me jealous.
Cheers
Roger T.
Looking good. Did the hoppers just come from the wash rack?
Len
Your river looks so real, I want to go fishing there. Wow.
Here's a long-term project I tinker with on the side:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5376_zpschpxwonf.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5376_zpschpxwonf.jpg.html)
A friend and fellow club-member gave me two old Eastern Car Works kits. He knew my fondness of B&O, he also knew the B&O had a unique depressed center flat car that used two-axle trucks. This kit makes such a car. However, the details are so different, that I can only use the frame. I will have to scratch up the exterior details to match some photos I received of this car. Anyway, to keep the profile low, like the prototype, I have to use undershank couplers:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5377_zpsxtkjks7m.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5377_zpsxtkjks7m.jpg.html)
To get the necessary weight, I'm using some kind of cutable weight material I got at hobby lobby (long drive). I'm using this stuff to fill up the frame:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSCN5378_zpsmoe3nfrg.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSCN5378_zpsmoe3nfrg.jpg.html)
My intention is to build two identical cars and present one to my friend who gave me the kits.
Not box cars, I know...
Regards,
Jonathan
Wayne;
Some years ago I picked up about four of them-I think at a hobby shop somewhere. They had some serious warpage to them, I had to straighten them out with an incandescent lamp. I took my eye off one of them for a minute-so now, it is a wreck sitting atop a flat car in my wreck train. Being as I do not have photobucket (I am too cheap...) I will send a photo via Roger T.
I liked the concept the cars represented. They are the right size, capacity, and era.
Rich C.
Richard aka Electrical Whiz Kid asked me to post these two: -
The one in subject is of an Eastern Car Works depr. centre flat that got too close to a heat lamp whilst trying to straighten out a warp...
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/100_0088_zpsn6nruvni.jpg) (http://s94.photobucket.com/user/rogertra/media/100_0088_zpsn6nruvni.jpg.html)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l99/rogertra/100_0089_zpsgsop8lca.jpg) (http://s94.photobucket.com/user/rogertra/media/100_0089_zpsgsop8lca.jpg.html)
Jonathan, what material would you say the "cutable weight" is made from?
Hmmm... It feels like soft rubber, and I can see metallic flakes infused within... lead or tungsten perhaps?
It was in the pinewood derby section of the store.
Regards,
Jonathan
Thank you for getting back to me.
Wayne,
I gotta tell you, the water in that last picture in the series of them, of the train crossing the river, is probably the most impressive water I've seen in a model railroad. The rippling on the surface is great in and of itself, but the clear/muddy transition is a tremendous touch of authenticity for me: In my hometown, where the Elk River runs into the Kanawha River, it looks just like that, with the Elk continuously dumping its murk into the Kanawha.
Manuel
I looked last night in Michael's for the stuff that Jonathan found and they do not have it (they also no longer carry Pinewood Derby items). Also looked there for Mirco Brushes, no luck there either.
No Wayne, I did not get the video, unless I am missing something.
I did find a single shaft can motor but alas it is slightly higher and longer than the original and is not a drop in fit, so I will be doing some milling of the frame to get it to fit. Not what I expected but it will be a fun learning experience nonetheless :D
I am sure I will. I am not one to whine about problems, rather I like to fix and solve them.
Thanks Wayne, I will go back and check it out.
Between the work by Jonathan, Roger, and Dr. Wayne, I'm convinced I live in the wrong time, at least as far as trains go (but I've known that for a while!)
Most interesting in Dr. Wayne's video of his "Bee" is the carbon black hopper in the train. Where did that come from?
And the tank car in the consist reminded me of how tank cars are their own world as far as weathering goes. Today they mostly look kind of dusty, with the grease stains from the wheels in certain areas, but in the steam age it wasn't uncommon to see some stains from the ladding where something got spilled in loading. That would be a big no-no in today's environmentally regulated world (and it is undoubtedly and improvement), but it also is a difference in how you would apply weathering if modeling the steam era vs. today.
Quote from: doctorwayne on November 20, 2015, 10:01:50 PM
Thank you, Manuel, for your kind words.
I actually based the river on the Grand River here in southern Ontario - it's like any other river, calm at times and then seemingly out of control. It's often muddy in the Spring, what with the rain combined with melting snow.
The Grand eventually empties into Lake Erie, and while I've named mine the Maitland River, (the real Maitland River flows into Lake Huron), mine is modelled at the point just before it meets Lake Erie. Here's a photo which better illustrates that:
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/some%20water%20scenes/bridge_lake_smoke1-1.jpg)
One of my freelanced railroads is the Grand Valley, with the line more-or-less following the west bank of the river, which on the layout is represented by the aisleway.
Wayne
That is one impressive photo. You need to send that the MR.
One prototype nit pick. The Train number board, up on the top of the boiler, reads "X725". As this is an extra, the number should read "X25" as an extra is always given the lead locomotive's number. A little black paint and that's fixed. :)
But again, excellent photo.
Cheers
Roger T.
Dr. Wayne, thanks for the link to Rail Shop and the carbon black hopper. The prototype area I'm modelling in West Virgina includes a substantial chemical industry (though I'm not modeling the chemical plants themselves--they are huge!), and carbon black hoppers and appropriate tank cars would be part of the train makeups in the 1940s.
Needless to say, I had to get one of these from Bachmann (Walthers listing shown); wish this was available with other numbers:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/160-17144
I'm also glad to see the PRR H-30 covered hopper in the Rail Shop listing, too; some photos of those cars also show up in the area as well.
Now if only I could find some appropriate 1940s era pressure or gas tank cars (easy enough), and the decals for Carbide & Carbon (now Union Carbide) for them (a bit tougher these days. . .), not to mention still having to acquire another hundred or so hopper cars for all the coal traffic (to go with the 50 or 60 already here--remember you need enough to simulate both loaded and empty trains), plus detail and decorate same. . .
Wonder if I should have picked a shortline or a midwestern road with box cars that you can't tell are loaded or empty?
I have worked for two railroads that switched carbon black plants, one in Texas and one in Kansas. Everything associated with its production is extremely messy. It is the soot from the incomplete combustion of oil. Various chemicals are added to the oil to produce carbon black of differing properties.
The stuff is moved within the plant in tubes, by compressed air. The interior of the plant and the floor withing it is coated with a uniform layer of flat black powder. It contains enough oil that it sticks to all horizontal and vertical surfaces. Almost all is carried in covered hoppers. Some is also transported in large bags in box cars. All covered hopper cars I have seen in this service soon become flat black, regardless of the color they are painted.
These days, carbon black is usually carried in shipper-owned cars (with an "X" suffix on the reporting marks. The most common paint scheme is black with white lettering.
The workers in these plants naturally become coated with the stuff daily. It has to be real hard on their eyes and lungs. I complained to a friend of mine who was a chemical engineer about how filthy the stuff was. His reply was "It's not filthy, it's just carbon, the same stuff we are made of!"
Of course, this will also coat the locomotives. I tried to keep some cars between my locomotive and the plant itself, but that was not always possible. Once it gets on a locomotive, one can get dirty just walking past it.
Carbon black plants are often located in or near oil fields, handy to a local supply of raw material. It is used in making ink, pigments, and a lot of other things. It is what makes tires black.
I believe I remember hearing that this stuff used to be made from the bones of animals. Comparing the two, I would rather work at a nitro mixing facility. I used to go into O.Z.Gedney to do repair work a long time ago, and those guys qualified for black lung benefits-and that was just a foundry! I don't care what that engineer says, the workers qualify for black lung benefits for a reason!
Rich C.
Well, I finally broke down and bought some weathering powders at the last train show. For 12 bucks I received four colors and a little case to aid in application:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0038_zpst7tchfvz.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0038_zpst7tchfvz.jpg.html)
This particular brand has some sort of microglobule adhesive built in. The adhesive activates as you brush on the powder. Supposedly, you don't need to dullcote after application. I know, sounds weird to me, too.
Anyway, my plan was to keep the weathering as minimal as possible. However, it's hard to stop! Applying weathering powder is fun, as it turns out.
Now, after watching the few color videos and photographs of steam era trains, I observed that boxcars seem to be darker on the roofs and around the doors. Let's call that soot. I'm sure we all observe different details about weathering. Also, I'm sure weathering can be based on time of year and location (desert, forest, etc.). Hopefully, weathering is one of those personal preference things.
Here's how my cars are turning out:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0035_zpshgtbe436.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0035_zpshgtbe436.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0033_zpszbqcad98.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0033_zpszbqcad98.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0031_zpssslnhvhi.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0031_zpssslnhvhi.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0029_01_zpsqamjtzgj.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0029_01_zpsqamjtzgj.jpg.html)
Seven cars done, about 70 to go. Whew.
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan..........
I just know that you're going to like using powders. I use the Doc Obriens set from MicroMark. They have the same self adhesive properties as the ones you picked up. I seldom use a sealer over them. If the model is going to be handled a lot, I might think about sealing the powder, but for the majority of my projects, it's all been good. Overspraying with dullcoat can sometimes lessen the effect of the powder and another application may be needed.
If you go too far with the powder, it can usually be washed off with water, then try again. A hint......don't use these on your normal work surface.....they will stain it. I try to work on a piece of newspaper. Also, save your leftover powder from the newspaper into a small container. The mixed colors that result are good for general dusting of items.
NIce work, as usual.
Sid
Thanks, Sid!
The tips are much appreciated.
Regards,
Jonathan
jonathan,
Your weathering work really looks nice!
And I'm glad to see two CGW boxcars. This was one of my favorite local roads in Minnesota. Too bad it was taken over and pretty much dismantled by a competitor I will not mention.
Les >:(
Hey, Jonathon, did you get one of the new Mikes? If so, have you had it apart? Curious if the domes are separate or cast into the boiler. I think the sand dome is about 6 scale inches too tall, and might contemplate replacing it if it isn't too big a hassle.
Quote from: ebtnut on December 09, 2015, 02:13:21 PM
Hey, Jonathon, did you get one of the new Mikes? If so, have you had it apart? Curious if the domes are separate or cast into the boiler. I think the sand dome is about 6 scale inches too tall, and might contemplate replacing it if it isn't too big a hassle.
I had inquired about this in an earlier post, and the official answer is they're cast onto the boiler not separate... the exploded parts diagrams also show this..
Though I wish bachmann would do separately applied domes as it would help customization a great deal not to mention bachmann can market a lot more prototypes this way with a variety of details... ehhh one can dream. :-\
Thanks, Rye Guy. I suspected that was the case from the diagram, but wanted to be sure. If I can find a good dome casting I may go ahead with the repalcement. There's a pic of the prototype 4508 in the Rails Northeast B&O roster site that shows the loco with a big Vandy tender behind it. That might make an interesting conversion.
jonathan,
No. CGW 90017. When I wrote that, I didn't realize it was two pictures of the same car.
Les
You guys mind if I post in this thread? My modeling is certainly nowhere near as prototypical as Jon and Wayne's is, but I try. My color choices tend to be a little more "vibrant" shall we say. I was looking for something to do a few days ago, and grabbed these two True-Line CP boxcars and decided it was time to put ome years on them.
Here I am discussing powders, yet these two never saw a speck. This was all done over the factory finish with dry brushing and washes and lots of dull coat. The only spray paint used here was the dullcoat and a misting of some Krylon camo color on the trucks. The roofs were done with Testor's new enamel stains, both light and dark rust. For a wash I use 50/50 alky/water and some cheapo craft acrylic flat black. Everything got a dry brushing with an earth tone, a gray, some browns for rust and some WWII Africa Campaign camo colors from model master. I have no clue as far as superdetailing goes. I know nothing about real railroads other than the basics Like I've said before, I'm not a model railroader.....I'm a modeller who got hooked on railroad models ;D
That being said, I tend to work with what I have, and just try to bring out the best in each kit or car I get my hands on. I use the LRTM method of modeling....Looks Right To Me. I'm also not afraid to jump in and try something new or different. Sometimes the best effects are what I call "happy accidents".
(http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rrkdbwrskrwttqwxsqskkdtfqrbwd,vi/sbdrqskfxkbqtdwdswxbwggwqstk/9/3572619/13872902/photo-vi.jpg)
(http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rrkdbwrrqqwkqgkxsqskkdtfqrbwd,vi/sfwgbgsbqxrsrfbgrqqxskgrdsrtw/9/3572619/13872902/photo1-vi.jpg)
(http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rrkdbwrrwwdrkddxsqskkdtfqrbwd,vi/swqfkgwbwxbwgwtsrdbxskgbsqsrq/9/3572619/13872902/photo1-vi.jpg)
Sid
This next one is an old Roundhouse RTR model from a few years back. This one still has room for improvement. It was one of my earliest adventures with the powders. The 4-6-0 at the head end is one of my favorite loco's on my layout. Couldn't resist showing it again ::)
(http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rrkdbwrrsskbfrsxsqskkdtfqrbwd,vi/sbqgdbfkrxskgrdsrtwxrwgtdqdwr/9/3572619/13872902/photo2-vi.jpg)
(http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rrkdbwrsgwgkfssxsqskkdtfqrbwd,vi/bqqwqdfdrxwtfdwdfsgxsqddgfwkw/9/3572619/13872902/photo-vi.jpg)
Enjoy...........Sid
Very nice, Sid!
I especially like the crisp detail on the CP car. The weathering really enhances the rivets and grabs.
Dry-brushing has been my method of choice until now. I have enjoyed playing with the powders so far.
To answer an earlier question; I have not obtained the new Mike, yet. It's on my to-do list. Although, I have gathered a number of brass detail parts in anticipation.
Regards,
Jonathan
Thanks guys.
Wayne......You're right about the manufacturer of the models.....It was LifeLike under License from Hobbycraft Canada I believe. Maybe I should start keepin track of this stuff ??? Hmmm....nah....lololol.
I have three of those THB Fowler cars on the layout myself. They're next on the hit list I think. I also just googled CDS. I had never heard of them, but it looks like they are what I need. Thanks for the clue. I prefer dry transfer to decals....way less piddlefartin around ;D
Sid
Here are several cars I just finished working on, but may not be completed, yet.
First is a craftsman kit boxcar (Sunshine). I was never satisfied with my paint job on this model, so I went to town with the weathering. I feel better about it now:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0065_zpsqp3hfkqj.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0065_zpsqp3hfkqj.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0061_zpsnultju93.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0061_zpsnultju93.jpg.html)
Next, are a couple of kit hoppers. I just used a bit of soot to highlight:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0056_zpsxacebvei.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0056_zpsxacebvei.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0055_zpscuubphd9.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0055_zpscuubphd9.jpg.html)
Finally, another hopper, but a R-T-R model. It was a bit pricey due to the superdetailing. Notice he shadows thrown off by the roof-walk. The hatches open and so on. Still, I never really liked this car for some reason. So, I'm going to weather it like crazy. I just finished a bunch of rust. Next, I'm going to throw soot all over it. One may not be able to read the markings when I'm done:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0048_01_zpslkvgh4sw.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0048_01_zpslkvgh4sw.jpg.html)
That'll show it who's boss. ;)
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0095_zpsxv7rulm1.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0095_zpsxv7rulm1.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0093_01_zpskpon3xcu.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0093_01_zpskpon3xcu.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0089_01_zpsm9lkslvy.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0089_01_zpsm9lkslvy.jpg.html)
Sid,
Beautiful job on your lumber company boxcar. But it would drive a yard clerk or conductor nuts. No reporting marks or road number.
Les
Hi Les....
Thanks for the compliments on the lumber boxcar. Here's a pic of her sister car....still unweathered. I don't know about reporting marks, but as for road numbers, the car number is on the door. This one is #4....the other is #1. The road numbers are just in an unusual spot.
(http://media.fotki.com/1_p,rrkfbqdqsbsqrrqxsqskkdtfqrbwd,vi/rgdrgdsbkxwssfftsttxgswssqrt/9/3572619/13882471/photo3-vi.jpg)
Sid
Sid,
I was worried that you might take offense at my post, and I'm glad to see you did not. Posting from the perspective of someone who had been a yard clerk for 10 years, before going into engine service the car would have puzzled me.
Reporting marks and numbers are shown on the left-hand side of the carbody as someone stands facing it. The reason is so they can be found quickly (like if the car initials and numbers are being written down as a cut of cars is pulled past the writer. There may not be time to hunt for these.
I thought maybe the "No. 1" on the door may be a car number, but it could also refer to a mill number or even part of the product name (Jack Daniel's Number 7). Also, car doors were easily damaged and replaced. If the door carried the car number, it would have to be painted on the replacement door.
At a later time, possibly later than the era you are modeling, the AAR (Association of American Railroads) published an agreed-upon set of standards for car lettering. This would have greatly cut down on confusion. As railroads had to pay an equipment usage fee (car hire) to the owner of the car (called per diem), it was important to them to get this right. On a small railroad that does not send its cars off-line, it probably wouldn't matter much, except to identify cars in train lists as loads or empties.
Les
Now that my health is returning, thought I'd start off with a simple project, one of my standby wagon top boxcars:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0121_01_zpszpwtm8rr.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0121_01_zpszpwtm8rr.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0111_zpsusgpglte.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0111_zpsusgpglte.jpg.html)
I've added a new twist... I've cleaned out the interior and modified the doors and door openings. I want to added a loaded interior to the car, just to see if I can. So, I took some Evergreen siding and built a floor for the interior. Progress so far:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0117_01_zpsnjtbhxq0.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0117_01_zpsnjtbhxq0.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0116_zpsdclvzuyp.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0116_zpsdclvzuyp.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0110_zps8czu3nbz.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0110_zps8czu3nbz.jpg.html)
Of course, now I have a new problem... what colors to use on the interior and, oh yeah, what shall the load be for the car?
Should be able to figure it all out eventually.
Regards,
Jonathan
Nice.....I like seeing the raw work before the paint covers up all that effort. This is a resin kit? Your underside detailing is really nice.....is that part of the kit? If not, whose scale chain do you use?
Sid
Thanks. Yes, it's a resin kit... comes with 90% of the parts you need... except trucks, couplers, eye bolts, chain and tools. I usually get the chain from train shows (40 links to the inch). I also add a slack adjuster and coupler lift bars.
Regards,
Jonathan
Hello, Jonathan, am glad your doing better! I think you had some of us worried for a time.
As to interior colors, most steam-era steel box cars were lined with unpainted wood on the sides and perhaps the ends (the roof not needing the protection from shifting or sliding cargo), and the floor would be the same. In fact, there is or was somebody who offered laser wood kits to fit certain plastic box car interiors that had the details, such as bolt holes and boards. I don't know if this would have applied to wagon top cars or not with their unusual construction, though I have a strong suspicion it would have.
Doors, I believe, were typically unlined; I think the interior paint there would be the same as that on the outside.
The advantage of wood was that it was easily repaired, and in the case of the floor, could also have blocking nailed in. This of course predated nailable steel flooring that came out later.
Excellent work Jonathan.
Sadly my model railroad work has been put on hold since I had an accident at work April 01.
While on tour, in the dark backstage, in a strange theatre, on an uneven floor, I missed a 12" Step and fell and broke my right hip.
30 minute ambulance drive to the nearest hospital, where I spent the night and then at 07:00 next morning a 40 minute ambulance ride to another hospital where I finally went down for surgery at 19:00. Released the next day around noon with a three to four hour drive to get back home. It was a two ambulance shuttle to get me home.
Now facing a six month recovery period before I'm back close to 100%. As it was a work accident, Workers Compensation Board take care of all expenses.
So keep posting those inspirational photos so I have something to strive for once I'm able to move without pain and do some modelling.
Cheers
Roger T.
Ouch! Hope you're up and about soon Roger.
Len
Wow! I feel lucky now. Hope you get back to reasonable health soon. I feel your pain.
Thanks and Regards,
Jonathan
Here's a couple preliminary shots of my loaded boxcar. The load is supposed to look like rough cut lumber. The farther away one stands, the more convincing it is... ;)
I still have some finish work to perform on the car, but it's getting there...
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0128_01_zpsqwa1jjsw.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0128_01_zpsqwa1jjsw.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0127_zps7wc85wd0.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0127_zps7wc85wd0.jpg.html)
Like it and like the figure, nice touch :). What's the lumber really made from?
Thanks much, JB.
The lumber loads are a single block of hardwood, with lines scribed in with a razor saw, then weathered with some light colors of powder.
The figure has a wire drilled into his backside and pushed between the seams of the lumber.
Weathering the car and setting up a scene on my layout. Will post a couple more pix when completed.
Regards,
Jonathan
Addendum:
Here's the car weathered. Will attempt some scenery shots in the morning.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0139_01_zpscbsbxlzz.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0139_01_zpscbsbxlzz.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0138_01_zpsqmrlgwxy.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0138_01_zpsqmrlgwxy.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0135_zpsjr9mxs2k.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0135_zpsjr9mxs2k.jpg.html)
Thanks for getting back to me Jonathan. Nicely done!
Another trick that was employed at least once by John Allen is to take that block, and just cement the 'lumber' around it. It looked really good-
-and no stegosauruses...
Rich C.
Some final shots of this project... This is the Hardwood Furniture Company. It sits in the background on my layout. I used the tops of foreground buildings and small cardboard boxes as camera stands. Managed to get a Bachmann, Sound Value S2 in the shot (modified of course)...
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0140_01_zpsyacczhgt.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0140_01_zpsyacczhgt.jpg.html)
A little closer:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0145_zpsjamwguvy.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0145_zpsjamwguvy.jpg.html)
And closer:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0148_01_zpsqbhvlh5t.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0148_01_zpsqbhvlh5t.jpg.html)
Closer still:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0150_zps27azhtns.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0150_zps27azhtns.jpg.html)
Regards,
Jonathan
PS: Here's a link to a photo showing how I keep the figure upright. I took the photo off this thread as it might seem inappropriate to some. Better safe than sorry...
http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0154_zps31w4dkhg.jpg.html
Jonathan!
Stop it!
You're setting that bar too high for the rest of us mere mortals! ;D
Seriously. excellent work, you are worthy of praise. Well done.
Cheers
Roger T.
Well, thank you. I call it obsession. I have built 22 wagontop boxcars. With each one I try to take the detail to a higher level. Plus, I abhor making scenery. Obsessing with rolling stock is an excuse for me to avoid detailing the layout. ;)
Oh, and thanks to J3a for the inspiration on interior colors. I spent a good amount of time coloring the interior, but you can't see it. darn
Regards,
Jonathan
As an aside, for the photographers out there:
Using a basic DSLR (Nikon 3200), with a macro lens, I get about 3-6 inches of depth for sharp images, with the aperture down to f25... depends how close you can set the camera to the subject.
With a standard lens, the camera will close down to around f32 with about a foot of depth, However, you can't get real close with the camera. Still learning how to set up photos.
I'm sure a fancier camera body would do better.
Regards,
Jonathan
Jonathan;
On figures: It would be nice if it were feasible to produce figures with a "flex-feature"; that is, to have the quality that is needed to a), be pose-able, and b), to be able to be painted in a convincing manner, as limbs would be moveable.
John Allen did it with wire armatures covered with a waxy compound; I believe this could also be done using a putty-like compound; possibly a slow-setting epoxy. Heck; if we can kill the world 150 times over; surely we can come up with the technology for something as mundane as this!
As an aside; I received my valve-gear from Bowser.
Rich C.
I never know when I've gone a bit too far... over the edge, one might say. Anyway, here are 4 more open-door boxcars:
Empty
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0172_01_zpshktjniqg.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0172_01_zpshktjniqg.jpg.html)
Another wood load, just not as neat this time
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0173_zps1ugahlka.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0173_zps1ugahlka.jpg.html)
Another car with wood load, but with working figures
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0174_zpsjkx8skta.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0174_zpsjkx8skta.jpg.html)
The other figure in the same car
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0176_01_zpsq1emzdnq.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0176_01_zpsq1emzdnq.jpg.html)
Finally, an automobile car, with autos
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0177_01_zpss24e44pn.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0177_01_zpss24e44pn.jpg.html)
There wasn't room to put in a prototypical car loading rack, and I don't think I could build one anyway. So, I faked it with the cars... a few are fro the proper era, but the Mach 5 was a bit of whimsy.
Regards,
Jonathan
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0178_zpsbt30orek.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0178_zpsbt30orek.jpg.html)
One time I watched them unload cars from a auto box car. I would say that today they can unload 10 3 level car in the amount of time it took to unload 4 cars from that one boxcar.
Will be interesting to see if layout visitors notice a few of the auto cars, move on, then turn around, "Wait a minute, was that ..."
Go Speed Racer, go-oooo!!!
Glad folks remember Speedy! :D
Nice touch Jonathan.
Jonathan - great work (again!) Sorry to hear you were ill. It looks like you're back 100%.
To electrical whiz kid - there was, at one time, a company called Weston (I'm sure that's the name) and they made Flexible Freddy. I never actually saw one but I know they were made. The line consisted of a lot of prepainted figures. My favorite was guys playing checkers. The checker board was on a barrel and I think a dog was included.
I do believe that Campbell models (for the younger folks - Campbell made building kits and were known for their HO shingle material) may have purchased the line. I don't think Campbell is still in business,
Since I don't like spreading misinformation I googled Campbell and they are still in business and offer Weston miniatures. A look at EBay found a lot of "rare" and "vintage" Weston and Campbell figures. There is one vendor selling 5 flexible Freddies for $50. All of the figures are diecast and come painted or unpainted.
For Father's Day, I was able to sneak a few hours to myself to finish up a couple of projects.
One was a plastic kit, not considered a craftsman kit I think. All the many, many parts were plastic, including all the detail rods and grab irons, which were highly breakable, especially when trying to remove them from the sprues.
This is a stock car, coupled to one of my Bachmann USRA 0-6-0s:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0184_zpsqxo6vuqt.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0184_zpsqxo6vuqt.jpg.html)
The details are impressive, albeit difficult to cut and assemble:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0185_zpsamj8za1f.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0185_zpsamj8za1f.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0193_zpsh6hjxwou.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0193_zpsh6hjxwou.jpg.html)
The transition from bell crank rod, to clevis, to cylinder brake rod is impressive for a plastic model:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0208_zpsvwle7egb.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0208_zpsvwle7egb.jpg.html)
The heavy weathering is intentional. While the model came pre painted and marked, the parts were translucent, due to the thin plastic parts. It took quite a bit of dullcote and weathering powder to get rid of the opaque effect.
This grab iron broke twice while trying to assemble it. I will have to replace it with a steel wire at some point:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0200_zpsb4s2ttrt.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0200_zpsb4s2ttrt.jpg.html)
I don't have any livestock to load, yet. So I attached the roof with a weathered thread temporarily:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0195_zpsc9fgfcel.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0195_zpsc9fgfcel.jpg.html)
The other project is a USRA Doublesheathed boxcar. It has the postwar fascia, but kept the Andrews trucks:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0183_zpsmzubg5ph.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0183_zpsmzubg5ph.jpg.html)
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0186_zpspcdwrtiw.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0186_zpspcdwrtiw.jpg.html)
I attempted the same transition from stemwinder to cylinder brake rod:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0190_zpstpu4kcme.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0190_zpstpu4kcme.jpg.html)
Less worry about breakage with resin, brass and steel:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0192_01_zpsuvlynfko.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0192_01_zpsuvlynfko.jpg.html)
I made the stirrup steps from brass flat bar stock. They are quite sturdy.
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0203_zpsrrwudkm4.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Rolling%20Stock/DSC_0203_zpsrrwudkm4.jpg.html)
Anyway, Happy Father's Day to all. Just sharing the fun I got to have today.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on June 19, 2016, 08:27:02 PM
I made the stirrup steps from brass flat bar stock. They are quite sturdy.
Ahh, some cars down at model RR club, including some of my cars there, are showing the effects of use. Will have to use this idea.
What are specifics on how the steps are attached?
Indeed... I use 1/32" by 1/64" flat brass bar stock... Smallest I could find. It's available from K&S, through some hobby stores or on line.
Shape the brass to match the original stirrups, but a little longer. A #73 to #75 hole should be large enough to accommodate the brass stirrups. However, I do fine sand the stirrups down a bit to help them fit in the holes. The trick is the width of the plastic walls. You don't want to make the holes so big that they deform the walls.
I drop in a little CA with a needle to secure the steps.
Regards,
Jonathan
For on30Gn15, Here is a more complete explanation of my stirrup steps:
Most kits I build come with these beautifully detailed stirrups like these two:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0209_zpsiwcuu6zw.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0209_zpsiwcuu6zw.jpg.html)
However, they are easily broken or bent by normal use and handling... can even be ruined simply by trying to install them.
So, I use the bar stock:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0212_zpstplrr6ow.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0212_zpstplrr6ow.jpg.html)
And a couple tools:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0211_zpskailmqg3.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0211_zpskailmqg3.jpg.html)
to shape sturdier steps. I can do this by copying the shapes as close as possible.... but recently I found a jig leftover from some kit in my past:
(http://i642.photobucket.com/albums/uu146/jsnvogel/Projects/DSC_0213_zpsoh3ddcjb.jpg) (http://s642.photobucket.com/user/jsnvogel/media/Projects/DSC_0213_zpsoh3ddcjb.jpg.html)
I do lose the nut and bolt detail, but I never lose the steps, which is even more important.
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on June 26, 2016, 08:03:12 PM
I do lose the nut and bolt detail, but I never lose the steps, which is even more important.
;D A lot of our club members couldn't see the nuts and bolts anyway.
Guess lower body, or frame, needs to be notched or drilled for inserting the ends.
I have some small bar stock of appropriate sizes, somewhere, from model projects years and years ago. Will look for it over the next few days since our Independence day weekend is going to be rain pretty much straight through.
Thanks, appreciate it.
Quote from: on30gn15 on July 03, 2016, 12:32:16 AM
Independence day weekend is going to be rain pretty much straight through.
Sorry to hear that is the case where you are :'(
Thanks. And it gets even more fun.
QuoteHazardous Weather Conditions
Flood Warning in effect from July 3, 05:58 AM CDT until July 3, 06:00 PM CDT
Flood Warning in effect from July 4, 04:54 PM CDT until July 7, 05:40 AM CDT
Flash Flood Watch until July 4, 04:00 AM CDT
That does not sound 'fun'. :( Stay safe!
Nothing special, just to make the post count 11,111.
Len
???
Guess it's been a long while since I posted one of my boxcar projects. Really, haven't been doing any lately.
Recently I did work on one that turned out OK.
This is a Kadee boxcar... So, yes, I cheated. These cars come highly detailed straight from the factory... albeit a bit pricey:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1858/43639677745_0fb1f02e61_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29uhKNZ)DSC_1434 (https://flic.kr/p/29uhKNZ) by Jon Vogel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152929963@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1885/43639677295_0c177774d5_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/29uhKFe)DSC_1435 (https://flic.kr/p/29uhKFe) by Jon Vogel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152929963@N07/), on Flickr
It took a long time to disassemble this car, without damaging the details. There's more plastic than metal... one must be delicate.
Anyway, I've been assisting one of our club members teach a class on upgrading, tuning, detailing, and weathering rolling stock. This car was my project from the class. My clubmate turned me on to Classic Metal Works. I always thought they only made model cars and trucks. Turns out they also produce well-detailed loads for flat cars and gondolas. Who knew? :-[
I used a load of Havoline Oil Cases, stacked on top each other. I believe the load was around $8 US. I secured them with 5-minute epoxy:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1896/44499661602_96f609fdc4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aNhp3S)DSC_1433 (https://flic.kr/p/2aNhp3S) by Jon Vogel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152929963@N07/), on Flickr
other side:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1893/44499662912_d867029b1c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aNhprs)DSC_1432 (https://flic.kr/p/2aNhprs) by Jon Vogel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152929963@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1885/44528536961_816e529acd_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2aQQoFT)DSC_1430 (https://flic.kr/p/2aQQoFT) by Jon Vogel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152929963@N07/), on Flickr
Just something to share on a Saturday. Beats fixing a lawnmower, which is where I'm headed now.
Regards,
Jonathan
You still cut your own grass? I have an excuse! I'm finally old enough to justify paying someone!!!😂😂😂🤪🤪😅
Knees are shot. Can't run anymore. Gotta get some kind of exercise. ;D
Regards,
Jonathan
Quote from: jonathan on September 08, 2018, 07:37:32 PM
Knees are shot. Can't run anymore. Gotta get some kind of exercise. ;D
Regards,
Jonathan
My knees aren't so hot, either.
Fortunately, my wife does the grass--she likes doing it!--but there's a lot of edging and trimming to do with the string trimmer, so I get my exercise that way!
Big problem where I live has been either either broiling heat with 70% humidity, or rain, rain, rain--which makes the grass grow that much more!!
We've had so much rain the grass doesn't completely dry out, even after three or four days.
And yes, as usual, you have some great looking projects!!
(You just need a bigger railroad to run all that on! :D )
Looks good Jon. I always thought the Kadee cars were kits? You said you dismantled them?
All the brake gear......is that part of the Kadee car or did you add all that?
The load looks really good. Adds visual weight.
Sid
Thanks, Sid.
Yes, the car came fully detailed. I weathered and added the load. That's it.
All of the fine details are not glued in. They are pressure fit, in layers. The plastic is very pliable. Even the ladders will pop out. Very clever assembly, but nerve-racking. I removed as few parts as possible in order to take the frame from the shell.
Regards,
Jonathan