I am assembling a Micro Engineering "Tall Steel Viaduct" bridge and had planned on using Bachmann flex track I had bought with it.
However the instructions call for installing guard timbers over the ties and a guard rail inside of the "normal" rails plus "barrel platforms".
The guard timbers, guard rails and barrel platforms are supplied with code 83 Micro Engineering Flex track.
Anyone know if I can either buy this pieces elsewhere for my Bachmann Flex track or do with them for my bridge?
thanks
Bill
I am not sure if Micro Engineering produces bridge ties, but Central Valley does. These assemblies are good, easy to work with, and look really nice. Guard timbers were usually placed alongside the rails on the outside, guard rails (usually of a lighter yardweight) placed in between the rails. This assembly will look really good with code 83 rail-or, if you can find it, code 75. Oh Jim Brock; they do make it!
Rich C.
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on December 27, 2015, 02:04:59 PM
Oh Jim Brock; they do make it!
Rich C.
Don't recall stating, or thinking they didn't ??? ::)
There is a company that offers flex bridge track, and they give you the guide rails with it to install yourself ,plus a few other detail parts.Check the Walthers catalog.There a little pricey but very nice.They may be Micro Engineering code 83 not 100%.
Johnny
I am curious for this type of model what glue and applicator do you use?
I am using testers cement for plastic models.
thanks
Bill
Seems like liquid model glue, like made by Testors, would be ideal.
beautiful bridges!!!!
what applicator do you use with the testers?
thanks
Bill
Wayne is right on the mark. If you look on Central Valley's web site, and read up on the assembly of their track, the late Jack Parker will mention a product called "Barge Cement". I am sure that 'Barge' is just a trade name. This substance is a type of contac t cement, similar to what Wayne mentions. What Jack had said runs in line with the nominal application of contact cement. Due to the compound of that specific plastic, solvent cements generally do not work well. Contact cement is probably going to give you satisfactory results.
If you want to experiment around, that is how methods, ingredients, etc., are discovered. Enjoy!
Rich C.
Quote from: billgiannelli on December 28, 2015, 05:27:34 AM
beautiful bridges!!!!
what applicator do you use with the testers?
thanks
Bill
The applicator is a brush that comes with the liquid cement.
Thanks for the clarification,
Wayne.
Really nice work Wayne, well done.
Roger T.
Wayne,
I am going to use the Micro Engineering open deck girder bridge kits for an incline.
With that I want to use graduated piers. would it look ok to just use the bridge shoes to place on top of the piers?
Or would it look better and more realistic with some sort of a support like a bent to transition to the pier.
I hope that makes sense.
thanks
Bill
barge cement sounds similar to walthers goo, or pliobond, both of which are available in tube form.
I have also heard of attaching the metal rails to the ties in the same manor as gluing the guard timbers, except that after gluing the rail they run a soldering iron slowly along the top of the rail. the heat supposedly makes the glue bond between the metal and whatever tie material is used much stronger. I have not tried this myself so I can't say from firsthand experience how well it works.
I've used the soldering iron method on Code 40 rail in HOn3 with Pliobond and it works well. I would be hesitant to use that method with plastic ties. A little too much heat and the ties start to melt.
I cant thank you all enough for the wealth of information! Thanks!!!!!!!
I need to get to work! My wife is complaining the setup is not done and I have a ton of bridging to model!
thanks
Bill
I just realized something that seems obvious now......I cant use the guard timbers on the curved bridge I'm building because the guard timbers are straight.
Are guard timbers used on a curved bridge?
thanks
Bill
curved bridges are merely short straight sections placed at a slight angle to each other. you can trim the bridge timbers to fit these sections. won't they bend a little to follow the track?
yes, they are light plastic so they will probably bend fine.
thanks
Bill
if I have 85' open deck girder bridges, in order to follow a tighter curve can I just cut the girder bridges to say half the length?
would it be easier to cut the parts before assembly or after assembly?
thanks
Bill
wayne,
Once again thank you for all your expert guidance and useful information!!!!!
Bill
Wayne - lots of useful information. However let me caution you about using MEK. A good friend is a research chemist. I asked him once to get me a little bottle of MEK. He made a face and hemmed and hawed. He told me that it was nasty stuff and made me promise to make sure I used it in a well ventilated area as the fumes are harmful. He even suggested I wear a protective mask over my nose and mouth. This was also the case for xylene which was the Floquil solvent.
I still have my little bottle of MEK - well sealed. I doubt if I'll ever use it again.
Woody and Wayne;
At one time long ago, I had an account with a company in Connecticut that dealt with MEK on an industrial basis; theirs was used in the production of inks, and a few other things. I had set up the drive inverters for the mixers. This is, ideed, nasty stuff. A few guys there had really developed some serious issues-as in cancer, and when they closed, the DEP as well as OSHA had gotten involved and there was really a lot of noise made. I had used it when I was in the service, as it was easy to get; mixed with styrene scraps, it made a great body filler.
Rich C.
I remember back in the 90's MEK was removed from industrial use to de -grease parts in the company I worked for . I don't remember what replaced it for that function . John 2.
what paints do you use on the plastic models? I am using acrylics but it doesn't seem to cover well.
thanks
Bill
Myself, spray paints from a can, such as from Krylon and Rustoleum. Light coats, don't hold the can too close. Read the label, most are plastic safe, but double check to be sure. I am sure you will hear from others about using an air brush
Quote from: jbrock27 on January 02, 2016, 09:30:31 PM
Myself, spray paints from a can, such as from Krylon and Rustoleum. Light coats, don't hold the can too close. Read the label, most are plastic safe, but double check to be sure. I am sure you will hear from others about using an air brush
Exactly what I use. I've painted dozens of locos, both steam and diesel, freight and passenger cars, buildings etc., etc., all from spray cans, mostly using the above mentioned brands.
Only advice I'd give is to use the matte sprays. I find the gloss paint tend to run much easier than the matte. So I spray using matte paint, then apply Testors Glosscote, from a can, where I need to apply decals and finally a spray of Dullcote.
All applied in light coats, of course.
Happy New Year.
Roger T.
Quote from: rogertra on January 02, 2016, 09:43:35 PM
Only advice I'd give is to use the matte sprays.
Absolutely, great point worth pointing out. I have never used gloss, just flat or matte.
Wayne,
Do you scratch build your abutments and footings?
I didnt take into account the footings and that will throw off my height.
thanks
Bill
Since Testors killed Floquil and Polly-S I've been using Badger Modelflex RR Colors, Tru-Color Acrylic RR Colors, and ScaleCoat. I really like the Tru-Color Acrylics, and I think they actually have a bigger selection of RR colors than Polly-S did.
I tried the Testors Model Master paints, but found details being filled in because the pigment grains are too course.
Len
There is also a product I saw in "Model Railroad Hobbyist" that, I think, is an ink-based pigment compound. Since Floquil's demise, I have been looking around for a replacement that is air-brush as well as dummy friendly. At any rate, the name "Iwata" seems to surface in my mind. What are your thoughts?
Rich C.
I'm not familiar with "Iwata". The Tru-Color paints come in either 'air brush ready' bottles, or a slightly thicker 'brush on' form. Walthers 'Mfg #' is 709 if you want to see a list of their paints. I have no idea why Walthers list a water based acrylic paint as *HAZ* though.
The Tru-Color web page is http://trucolorpaint.com/ (http://trucolorpaint.com/)
There's some good info under the "Color Chart" pull down to the right of the logo at the top of the page.
Len
Wayne;
Have you used any of the polyurethane mediums yet?
There is a product called "signboard", which is pretty dense stuff, but do-able, with good tools.
Another one I ran across in one of the modelling mags. This material seems to be better, more adaptable to what we would use it for.
None of it is exactly cheap. I had scrounged a bunch of polyurethane sample blocks from one of the signage people I do business with. This stuff comes in thicknesses of about two inches and less, is machine-able and finishes up nicely. I am going to look for this other product, probably at maybe Dick Blick, or AC Moore.
What have been your thoughts?
RIch C.
Quote from: electrical whiz kid on January 05, 2016, 09:40:29 AM
I am going to look for this other product, probably at maybe Dick Blick, or AC Moore.
RIch C.
Rich, how about Hobby Lobby or Michael's? I don't ever see them for Hobby Lobby, but do often see coupons for Michael's.
Wayne,
Interesting. I never thought of an acrylic paint being solvent based. I've just used the Tru-Color straight out of the bottle, and never thinned it.
Len
Wayne....have a look at this type of material.
http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/craft/styrofoam.htm (http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/craft/styrofoam.htm)
We've used it to shape missing automotive parts and make molds with to cast new parts from.(Think knobs and hood ornaments)
3D printing is rapidly making that method obsolete.
Sid
Wayne.......epoxy will hold it as will regular 3M Spray 77 adhesive. I've seen bigger chunks held with fiberglass resin.
Sid
wayne,
I have to ask, as it is not clear to me. For just the plastic models (excluding the ties, rails, etc) do you use testors cement for plastic or CA?
Thanks
Bill
Hi Wayne,
sorry for making you repeat yourself.....I think I get it now! lol
you kept saying "contact cement" and I kept thinking "rubber cement"....not the same thing I realize now!
I will have to try contact cement as the testors is making quite a mess...
thanks again for all your help! :)
Bill