Hey there everyone,
I'm looking to purchase yet another piece for my large scale collection, this time being the Bachmann long caboose model number 88799.
(https://hattonsimages.blob.core.windows.net/products/88799_32702_Qty1_1.jpg)
I'd like to purchase this piece because I feel its more eye-catching than the bobber caboose that I currently own. However, one thing about the model concerns me and I'd like to get a few options and ask questions before I purchase it.
One of my biggest concerns is how well will the model work on 4' diameter curves? Bachmann says it preforms best on 8', but my layout has 4' as well. Bachmann's features on the product state and I quote "die-cast scale knuckle couplers (body-mounted coupler pockets for wide radius use only)". So does that mean the couplers require the model to be run on 8' diameter curves? I was wondering if this issue can maybe be gotten around if you have the caboose hooked to anther piece of rolling stock that has the coupler mounted on the trucks? Has this ever been tried before and does it work?
Another question I had with the model is how good is it? I've seen reviews on the model and it is highly detailed both inside and out. What really pulled me into wanting it was the interior. If I were to point out what draws me in the most, it would have to be the kerosene lamps. Does anyone else have this model? If so, can you share your thoughts about it? Wouldn't mind seeing some photos as well.
Thanks,
Rusty
Rusty,
I took the same caboose and shortened it to make it 18'-0" and it works fine on my really tight 16" radius curves. Email me and I will send you some pix.
Also, before I shortened the caboose, I removed the supplied trucks and body mounted couplers and replaced them with Bachmann's standard trucks with the truck mounted couplers and this also worked on the 16" radius track.
Chuck
What cars and engines are you going to run with the long caboose? It is a Spectrum model that is 1:20.3. It will look very large if you are running it with Big hauler rolling stock. Those are 1:22.5/24.
You will definitely, need truck mounted couplers. I have two of the Spectrum long cabooses (cabeese) and really like them. My curves are all 10' diameter or larger.
Chuck
Hi Chuck C,
Can you post a picture of your shortened Long caboose here on the forum??
Bill
Hey again,
Quote from: Chuck N on February 01, 2016, 10:34:36 AM
What cars and engines are you going to run with the long caboose? It is a Spectrum model that is 1:20.3. It will look very large if you are running it with Big hauler rolling stock. Those are 1:22.5/24.
I do in fact have a few Spectrum products so size is not an issue for me in terms of what I'm running it with. In terms of what I'm running it on, you and the other Chuck both made a point to put regular trucks on the model which is what I may end up doing myself.
Something I wanted to show everyone was the Bachmann Porter locomotive I have and something I've noticed with it. If you look at the photos I've supplied, it too has body mounted couplers, but works on the 4' curves when hooked to rolling stock with truck mounted couplers.
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii234/FPTMM/IMG_2439.jpg) (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/FPTMM/media/IMG_2439.jpg.html)
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii234/FPTMM/IMG_2440.jpg) (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/FPTMM/media/IMG_2440.jpg.html)
(http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii234/FPTMM/IMG_2441.jpg) (http://s265.photobucket.com/user/FPTMM/media/IMG_2441.jpg.html)
Considering the back of the model swings out quite a bit and that there is enough pivot in the couplers to prevent any issues, can the same thing be said for the long caboose? I am very much aware we are dealing with 2 different sizes of models here, but it's just a thought.
-Rusty
Rusty
If you look carefully at your middle picture,you will see that the couple on the Porter is swiveling on the end of the shank. It is not pointing out straight. This lets it pull a car with truck mounted couplers around 4' diameter curves. If it has a fixed straight shank coupler it would derail the car.
The long caboose has a solid shank on the coupler and it cannot swing very far left and right in the coupler box. You could possibly modify the box by cutting out some of each side of the box. You might be able to use a similar coupler that pivots on the caboose.
Truck mounted couplers stay centered over the track. Body mounted couplers swing out away from the center of the track. The tighter the curve the greater the swing. It is also possible that the body mounted spectrum couplers will be at a different height.
Chuck
Rusty,
Unfortunately the Porter coupler is not available in the parts store. You might be able to in some way use the standard Bachmann 1:22.5 coupler which swivels just like the porter coupler, but you would have to deal with a way to hold the centering spring in place. There is also a coupler with a coupler box and spring you may be able to adapt. These couplers can be found in the "universal parts" area in the parts store. As Chuck N says there is often a problem with coupler heights. Since you have both scales I am sure you have run into height issues before.
The 1:20.3 Long Caboose is a fabulous model, and where there is a will there is a way, most modelers I know do not want to cut pieces off which may be necessary if adding truck mounted couplers which will work on the 4 foot curves.
Bill
Bill
I have put a small eye bolt into the coupler tongue behind the coupler assembly to hold the centering spring, aka short black plastic rod.
Thinking a little more about it, I may have put the eyebolt near the end of the coupler shank. I don't use them now because all of my couplers are at body mount height.
Chuck
Chuck N,
Chuck,
Would you happen to have a photo of that method using the eyebolt you could post?? Might be of interest to many in the group, and sounds like a great method even though you don't need it anymore. I know I never thought of that!! It might even work for Rusty.
Bill
Bill
I wish I could. I'm now in Arizona for a couple of months. I think that all the evidence is back in Virginia.
I'll look through my scrap couplers out here and see if I can fine anything to help.
Chuck
Hey, that eye bolt/screw thing is an idea: am part way along fitting Bachmann couplers to a HLW Mack and that couple centering is an issue.
On a future one I want to try a traction style radial coupler, with coupler fixed to a pivoting shaft like I once did with Kadee's on HO in decades past, which will still need something done with the Bachmann coupler's centering spring shaft.
Wonder if an eye pin could be formed out of music wire and glued in to a hole in shaft in lieu of bolt or screw? Even a simple U might work, a la wire staple.
I went to a local hardware store and found the smallest eye bolt/screw. The opening of the eye is about 3/16", or less.
Chuck
I found some B'mann couplers. I'll try to find some eye screws at a local hardware store in the next day or so. Then I'll post some pictures.
Looking at the coupler, the eye goes into the tongue on the truck, not the coupler. Not enough room.
Chuck
Loco Bill,
I still can't get photobucket to work. Some months ago I emailed you pix of my shortened Spectrum caboose and shortened (to 18) Spectrum box cars. I will email again if you can post them here.
Chuck
Quote from: Loco Bill Canelos on February 01, 2016, 04:26:10 PM
Unfortunately the Porter coupler is not available in the parts store. You might be able to in some way use the standard Bachmann 1:22.5 coupler which swivels just like the porter coupler, but you would have to deal with a way to hold the centering spring in place. There is also a coupler with a coupler box and spring you may be able to adapt. These couplers can be found in the "universal parts" area in the parts store. As Chuck N says there is often a problem with coupler heights. Since you have both scales I am sure you have run into height issues before.
Bill,
Are you saying that the Porter couplers would make the caboose compatible with tighter radius curves? If that's the case and I can't get them separately, I could possibly machine some out of aluminum that would fit on the caboose and also be at the correct height.
-Rusty
Rusty,
If you can machine things out of Aluminum, you are way ahead of me!!!!
The Porters came with couplers that not only swiveled like in the picture above, but also came with couplers for both heights. I can't be sure it would work for the caboose with the fixed body mount couplers on short radius, the only way to find out would be to experiment and try it. My absolute preferred method would be to do whatever you could to widen the radius to at least 8 ft and preferably 10 foot. since you can't the only solution that would be sure to work is to modify the caboose by adding truck mounted couplers and removing the body mount couplers.
Chuck C has shortened that caboose and that is why it works on tight radius I am trying to post some photos for him. Maybe they will give you some ideas.
I cannot emphasize enough the idea of wider radius curves, I feel you will regret the shorter radius curves if there is any way you could have made them wider, but didn't.
Bill
Rusty
I strongly agree with Bill. Occasional running, like around the Christmas tree is fine, but constant year round running on tight curves is a real problem. There will be significant wear on your trains and track. Not to mention a lot of black dust that is hard to remove from your carpet under the track. That is a mixture of brass from the metal wheels grinding away the inside of your outside rail and plastic dust from the brass track grinding down the plastic wheel on you rolling stock.
I know someone who has to replace his 4' diameter curves every few years, because the rail head is ground down enough for the engine to fall down between the rails. This also puts a lot of stress on the engines motor and gears.
If it is at all possible use 8' diameter curves. If you can't do that LGB's R2, 5' diameter, would improve things.
Chuck
Bill
I got some eye screws this afternoon. It try to fix up another manufacturer's truck with a Bachmann coupler and spring retainer tomorrow and post some pictures.
Chuck
The only problem I see with upgrading to 8' curves is going to be the price, but I can see where replacing 4' curves every few years would cost more. Then I've got the cost of replacing train wheels on top of that. Either way, the layout I currently have is only a small 6x9 nailed to the floor in my room and its not really much a layout anyways. Needless to say, this thread has got my thinking a lot more of building a new layout than it has me going and buying a caboose. I've been collecting large scale since 2010 on and off and even though I've been doing it this long, I'm still very much new to the hobby. Really appreciate all the advice I'm getting here.
-Rusty
Rusty,
Small layouts are OK, but in large scale do have the limitations we discussed above. So while you are looking into a larger layout you just need to use what you already collected that will run on the layout you have. At least that way you can still run trains. When I was in the military, I even made point to point shelf layouts along two walls. I was at least able to use wide curves and equipment that would run on wider curves. It was better than having no railroad at all, even though I was unable to have the full circle.
I always had fun no matter what I had, and the joy of always dreaming about the "wonder" layout I might have in the future.
So enjoy your trains!!
Bill
Chuck,
Thanks for going through all the trouble to show you method using the screw eyes. I was thinking maybe it should have a separate post.
Bill
Bill
I was wondering the same thing. I'll start a new thread.
Chuck
Rusty
The five foot diameter curves (LGB R2) would fit in your space. If you can even get 4 pieces and put a piece of 5' diameter curve at the beginning and end of each semicircle it would help. The transition from the straight to the curve won't be as sharp. The R2 curves are also 30 degrees, so they will not effect your circle.
My first garden layout was when we lived in Denver. I had to terrace a slope on the side of the yard for the lower loop. This involved building walls and cutting back into the slope. At one end I had to use the LGB 5' diameter curves. I had a siding of 4' d curves inside the 5'ers. I did not have any problems with excessive wheel or track wear with the 5' d curves. There is a really big difference in performance between the 4' and 5' diameter curves. I could run Moguls and Mallets without any problem.
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/chuckn/foothills6402.jpg)
(http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/chuckn/foothills6403.jpg)
Chuck
Forrest
Your idea of using a bent wire would also work. I had thought of drilling two holes in the tongue and cutting the small end of a paperclip off and sticking the "U" into the holes and gluing them. Anything to form a loop would work.
Have you looked into using fishing hooks?
Just find a hook with an eye that the rod will go thru.
Cut the shank off then glue into hole.