I have a Bachmann rf-16 shark nose and I want to replace the decoder with a more responsive one / better quality than what is in it stock .... Any suggestions ? I want to be able to speed match it with one of my other two engines which have sound value and tsunami chips ... It is missing the mid range cv and a few other CV's that I think I would need to make it be able to run with said other engines
Step-by-Step Instructions using a TCS M1 Decoder in the RF-16:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/Baldwin_RF-16_Shark/Baldwin_RF-16_Shark.html
While the example uses a TCS decoder, the procedure is the same for any brand of 'hardwired' decoder.
Len
Thank you very informative
How about the NCE Bach-dsl replacement decoder .... It's a little cheaper and easier to install apparently. Does that match up to the M1 from your link ?
https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/200945019-BACH-DSL
I've never used that particular NCE decoder, but it should work just fine. The only thing I don't like about it the 'Reset' CV they use. While there are a few exceptions, the de facto standard for resetting a decoder is programmng CV8 to a value of 8. NCE is one of those exceptions, they set CV30 to a value of 2 to do a factory reset. So you have to keep track of which locos have NCE decoders if you mix brands. The TCS decoder is unique in you can use either CV8 or CV30 to do a reset.
Len
the nce decoder mentioned is designed specifically for use in Bachmann diesels.
Thanks all ... I'll have to write a note to myself about cv 30 ... I was wondering why cv 8 was blank on the instruction sheet. It's ten bucks less than the tcs and it only requires soldering of the existing wires to the board rather than (for the motor) to the motor. I'm not that experienced in soldering and I was worried about the joint on the copper tab at the side of the motor in your step by step example. I'm really just looking to make two of my engines run smoother and quieter and also my son has been begging me to set them up in a consist but since the stock decoders to have much adjustment available in the low and none in the mid it's pretty much impossible without the upgrade. Both chips add some lighting options too which is cool.
Quote from: Vizzin72 on July 23, 2016, 04:01:32 PM
...add some lighting options too which is cool.
Adding/changing lighting options is a snap these days with all the different varieties of LEDs available at low cost.
The shark nose I think imo Man leave alone cause it's so small but I have a sd40-2 I think it has fake lights near the front I could try to light or maybe I can stick a build in the cab I dunno I'll have to take another look at it again with the shell off
Quote from: Len on July 21, 2016, 07:19:44 PM
Step-by-Step Instructions using a TCS M1 Decoder in the RF-16:
http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/Baldwin_RF-16_Shark/Baldwin_RF-16_Shark.html
While the example uses a TCS decoder, the procedure is the same for any brand of 'hardwired' decoder.
Len
Len,
I went with a different decoder a NCE Bach - dsl . It says to remove all capacitors but to leave the resisters to the motor as opposed to the walk through you had given me for the m1 decoder (which says to remove capacitors AND resistors). Do you think it is safe to say follow the directions of the decoder i bought and leave the resisters in assuming that the removal of said would be specific to the instructions of the m1? I have another engine that I am doing with the same decoder, but it doesn't have resistors in the first place only capcitors so i think that would speak for itself.
Thanks,
Nate