Hi All.
I'm new to the Bachmann line of trains and it all started with a $30.00 pond shop train set. One of our club members told me about it and he bought it for me. The owner wanted $50,00 for it in broken condition but settled on $30.00.
The club member also had another 4-6-0 that would not work he let me work on it and I was able to repair it to working order. Someone must have dropped it because the weight on the chassis was broken off among other parts. This started my Bachmann train collection.
I have now the original pond shop train a standard 4-6-0 that I rebuilt with a new gen. 5 chassis I built up from ordered parts, a WT&NC anniversary and a E.B.T. gen.6 anniversary. I still have the original pond shop chassis in parts as well. I have modified all these locos to make 4 chuffs per rev. and additional capacitors soldered to the pcb boards in the tenders for a better sound. I tested these trains yesterday out side as the weather was in the High 60s and all ran quite well. The newest set is the WT&NC I assembled from ordered parts and it made the best sound of the 3 locos.
I also bought a 2-6-0 ( couldn't pass it up as it was the last the dealer had and I got it for 1/3 the cost of a new one). It came dcc ready and along with the other locos I would like to ad a sound decoder and other electronics to run my trains on RC and battery power some time in the future.
I have had great :- results working with the Bachmann parts dept. and their friendly staff.
That's it for now.
DrWho 12 out.
Hi there,
Welcome to the forum, and glad you are having such a great time with your Bachmann Locomotives!!
Loco Bill
Thanks for the reply Loco Bill.
It's winter here in Ohio and I think I'm in train withdraw because our club had a large diesel loco display set up at a local greenhouse / garden center from late Nov. through Christmas to Jan 5 when we dismantled it.
If your interested go to NAGRS.com web site and see the photos. We also set up another large display at Crocker Park a shopping center near Cleveland. I helped install both displays and did maintenance on the display at the greenhouse also on Sundays we would run our steam trains so I was able to run some of my Bachmann fleet.
The club I'm in is the Northern Ohio Garden Railroad Society and we have been doing these displays for 4 years now.
Regarding my recent purchase, a Spectrum 2-6-0 Russian Steel locomotive I recently bought, I'm glad I didn't pay the full price but got a massive discount even though it is a new loco because the loco has no sound. It is advertised as dcc ready. I would have thought Bachmann would have installed the same sound electronics as in a 4-6-0 Big Hauler for the $12,00 MSRP or even the $790 to $800 price on various websites.
In the future I plan to add sound and remote walk around control to this and my other locos.
I also have a PIko 2-6-0 mogul and an Aristo craft 040 Rogers the Piko has magnetic track pick up sound and the Rogers has some kind of goofy sound triggered from a tender truck. I could buy the Piko dcc controller and install their dcc sound board in the tender of the Piko 2-6-0 but the cost for all the electronics is way out of my budget and I don't think the Piko electronics will interface with my Bachmann locos so I think I'll wait for soundtraxx to make a G scale sound system.
Well that is it for now.
Later, Dr Who 12
HI all
I have been having difficulty with the plastic wheels attached to the metal drivers on the 4-6-0 locos.
I have only been able to take one of these plastic wheels off without cracking or breaking the spokes. The newest loco I recently bought I decided to take the first driver apart ( I didn't do this on my other two locos but installed the new bands without disturbing the wheel assembly ) to install 2 new bands on the chuff drum so the loco would make 4 chuffs per rev. I also found the screws holding the wheels on the axels were loose.
Is this a common thing that these screws would be loose and should I check the other wheels as well? This is a new gen. 6 chassis loco and never ran so I didn't expect to find these screws loose.
The other drivers will be more difficult to disassemble the plastic wheels before I can get to the screws.
I was thinking of some how using hot water to help make the plastic wheels cooperate with the removal but if there is a better way please let me know.
Thanks in advance
Dr Who 12
Hi Dr Who?
Every new chassis I had was tight when I received it but after many hours of use, the wheels seem to loosen from the axles.
The way I remove the plastic inserts from the metal wheels is by pressing or even lightly tapping, with a small punch, the back side of of the plastic insert where the counter weight is until it starts to separate and then gently prying, again from the back side, around the wheel as it separates.
The way I tighten the wheels, after removing the inserts, is to remove the screw holding the wheel to to axle and place a small washer on the screw and reinstall it. It seems the plastic insulator between the wheel and axle deforms and you can't tighten the screw enough to keep the wheel tight to the axle. Be careful if you use a metallic washer! You don't want the metal wheel to make contact to the axle through the screw! If you're running track power you'll have a direct short, and nothing will run if that happens :-[
I hope this helps and enjoy your trains!
Adam
Thanks trainman.
I tried the very hot water attack with some success but never thought to use some drifts or punches as in replacing bearing races. I normally think of these kind of approaches but somehow trains and cars didn't register with this process.
I will be getting a new 4-6-0 soon and I want to install 2 more metal bands to the chuff drum also your info about the loose screws is most helpful. You mentioned using washers between the axel bushing and the screws but didn't mention using metal washers but said something about the washer coming in contact with the metal axel. Did you use some kind of non metallic insert in the washer hole and use a washer with a large or drilled out hole?
I can understand over time and running the loco that the bushings would deform allowing the screws to loosen up. When I installed the screws and wheels back on the axels I used red locktite to help keep them tight.
I like your washer approach and must figure a way to make sure they don't connect with the metal parts of the axels.
Thanks for the help.
later.
Dr Who 12
I have another question for the forum.
Is there a way to produce a louder/more volume chuff sound from the electronics installed in my 4-6-0 anniversary locomotives? I would like to keep the original board that is in the tender at this time because I run all my locos from track power. I was thinking of adding some kind of small amplifier to the existing board and powering it from power pickup trucks I would install. Does this sound feasible or has anyone done something similar?
Any information would be helpful.
Thanks in advance.
Dr Who 12
Dr.
I would not use red Locktite!! maybe just a small spot of blue. You might need to remove that screw again. Red is very hard to to loosen without heat.
The washers I use are just slightly larger in diameter then the screw head. they are brass, but that shouldn't matter what they are made of, you just want the washer under the head of the screw to push down harder on the plastic bushing that separates the axle from the wheel.
The only reason I use the small brass washers is because I have them and the other reason is because I have converted all my locomotives to battery power and I am not concerned about track power shorts.
You could find some washers on McMaster-Carr's website.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=16476pe
They have all types of materials and sizes. For track power, I would suggest some type of plastic or Nylon. look around.
I hope this helps and enjoy your trains!!
Adam
Hi Trainman.
Thanks for the info and refreshing my memory. Since I retired I had forgotten the places I used to order materials from and Mc Master Carr was one of them.
Later.
Dr Who 12
Hi Trainman.
I was able to remove the plastic insert wheels with little difficulty using the punch process. Thanks again.
Later
Dr Who 12
New Topic
I have a ET&WNC 4-6-0 that has the back of the cab cut out so that the boiler is exposed I was thinking of cutting out the parts on my other 4-6-0s so the nice details on the boiler are exposed as well.
Has anyone done this custom work to their 4-6-0 engine?
Dr Who 12
Yes ;D
Dr,
That's funny you mention that. (cutting out the rear of the cab)
I'm in the middle of kit bashing an old 4-6-0 I got on ebay for $41.00, shipping included. I just finished cutting out the back of the cab. This loco was #177 Denver & Rio Grand Western with the yellow and black paint job. I cut the rear sides between the two narrow windows all the way up to the bottom arch molding. I used a retractable box cutter with a new blade. I clamped a short 2x4 to a work bench and supported the inside of the cab with it while I slowly scribe with the point of the box cutter over and over until I was able to remove the rear of the cab. Now there's just one narrow window on both sides of the rear of the cab.
One thing to note, before you start cutting, is that you have to remove the windows and they are glued in and are brittle. I removed mine by carefully prying down the sides between the cab and window assembly. Go slow and carefully. I then cut the two inner windows from that assembly to match the cab. I reinstalled the window glazing by just sliding it back into place, no glue needed, it is a tight fit.
I also removed the boiler back head by sliding it up and off. I was really surprised how a little flat red, white and brass paint made the details pop on the back head.
I'm now in the process of mounting an old version 5 chassis, that I had left over from an Annie chassis swap out. Ill be installing an LED head and back light, Revolution controller and battery power.
Besides running trains, it's also fun customizing them!
Have fun.
Adam
Hi Trainman.
Thanks for the response to my customizing question. I was thinking of doing the same kind of cutting away of the unwanted cab parts with a sharp exacto type knife but my locos are the anniversary models and I am afraid I'll wreck some of the nice details on the boiler so I think I'll use a diamond disc on my drumel tool and go slow cutting the parts out. I don't want to take the cab off the loco so this will make things a bit tricky.
I have 3 anniversary models I would like to modify the cab on and I also have a $30.00 pond shop loco I have rebuilt into a anniversary model. I think I'll work on the pond shop loco first and see how things work out before attempting the other locos.
You are right customizing your locos is part of the fun of this hobby and especially on these cold winter days it keeps me busy.
Thanks again for your help.
Dr Who 12
Hi A Trainman
Well I got enthused this pm so I decided to cut the cab on one of my new anniversary 4-6-0s using your suggestion. By using an exacto knife and some muscle. The results were right on. I was able to do all the surgery with the cab installed and I didn't wreck any of the details on the boiler or the rest of the engine either. The glass plastic was the worst as it is more brittle and I was afraid I was going to destroy the windows I still needed.
I have 2 more new locos to go so I hope all goes as well as this one. I took my time but my nerves had a work out because these locos are like 3 weeks new. There goes the warrantee I guess.
Now there is a guy on the web who customized the front of his loco by shortening the pilot truck and pilot like the 4-6-0 loco at the Tweetsie RR. It appears like quite a project but the results look great. There is one draw back though the loco won't run on a 2'(4' diameter) radius curve track any more. That is no problem for my layout as I have 10 and 8 foot diameter curves.
I have a lot to think about doing now I hope the weather turns colder so I might be able to do some more customizing .
Later.
Dr Who 12
Hi All.
Well I have finished cutting out the back of the cabs on my remaining locos. It was a bit nerve wracking and as I mentioned the windows were difficult. On the Annie. models that have the back of the cab closed the windows are all one part up to the top and including the roof of the cab. The only thing that may look a bit off is the beam I left across the top of the cab it is a bit thick due to the clear plastic of the windows I had to leave. I was able to fill the space between the cab beam and the plastic then I painted all to match the cab and all looks ok.
I also made some grab/ railing/ handles like the ones on the open cab of my ET& WNC Annie. out of some brass rod and brass balls from a light rotary switch pull chain. I left one pr. all brass to match the other brass on that loco and painted the other pr. black to match the railing of the East Broad Top loco.
All in all a successful venture as I have all my Annie. locos exposing the beautiful boiler details. The only thing left to do is add some canvas curtains to the sides for a more realistic look.
Later.
Dr Who 12
Hi Loco Bill.
Well I just finished putting my in lettered Spectrum Russian Iron 2-6-0 back together and testing it so all is running ok.
I took the loco apart to install a new drive gear but discovered many problems before I could get to the gear replacement. First all of the screws were loose also the rods on the chuff trigger drum were falling out.
I forgot to mention I bought this loco new from a dealer in Minn. last month and only ran it on my layout for 10 min. last month on a 60 degree day. I received the loco in all of the original shipping containers even the plastic bag wrap and Styrofoam container was in excellent condition. Actually every thing looked perfect and the loco ran very well on the layout. I have 8' diameter turns so no binding of any kind as the loco ran.
So I write this notice more for information rather than a complaint. The chuff drum was cracked in 4 places under 2 of the small trigger rods( the drum is a two part assembly ) making it able to spin on it's axel. I won't go into the extensive repair I made to this part here so If someone wants to know they can let me know via the forum and I'll get back to them.
I also found 2 wheel bearing pickup wires pinched showing the bare wires. I repaired all these as well.
I finally got to replacing the gear and after I opened the gear box the gear looked in perfect condition. I was only going to replace the gear because of all I have read about it's failure. Well not only was the gear perfect it was mounted on the drive shaft with a section milled out to match a flat milled section of the axel. I realized from this that the new gear wasn't going to work so I greased everything and reassembled the loco.
I noticed that the new reissue locos have metal gears and I wonder if they might be available from the parts dept. in the future also how is the newer loco's gears pressed on the drive shaft, with the shaft gnarled or milled out as mine is?
I'm happy I decided to do this gear change even though I didn't replace the gear because I was able to fix the other problems so now I can run my loco for a long time before it will need extensive service.
I don't know how old my loco is so perhaps someone could help with that. With that being said I don't know how long the dealer had this loco on the shelf and I don't recall seeing a date of mfg. anywhere.
The disassembly/assembly in prep. for replacing the drive gear isn't all that difficult but handling the tiny wires is kind tight work one should have a good soldering iron.
I don't know how long the drive gear will last in my loco but I will need to get the proper replacement or a new drive shaft that corresponds to the new NWSL gear I bought.
I would welcome any comments don this post.
Later.
Dr. Who 12
Glad you got it going! I must say I have never seen a 2-6-0 in the condition you describe. Makes me think it was used and carefully repackaged. It would have been best to return it to the seller. Even at that the loco is at least 16 years old even if it was actually new. It could have been improperly stored in extremes of cold and heat over the years which could account for what you found. Anyway here is the info you wanted:
81499 2000 ~ Loco 2-6-0, painted, unlettered Russian Iron Spectrum MSRP $799.00 Russian Iron
I bought mine new back when it first came out, had no trouble with it but after many years of operation I did have to replace the gear which had cracked
Hi Loco Bill.
Thanks for the quick response.
There was no way to tell how bad the chuff drum was cracked and the pinched wires were until I disassembled the loco to do the gear replacement. I figured I would do the gear replacement as a preventive measure thus I wouldn't have taken the loco apart. I recon I could have stopped and returned the loco to the dealer right then but it is a real hassle doing that and explaining things especially after I had taken the loco apart. Like I said the loco ran with no problem on my layout for about 10 min. I only ran it that long because I had other locos to test that day and I only a few hours of warm weather.
I read several stories of people getting a new loco to have the gear brake very soon after running it for a short time so I was trying to save myself some grief at a later time when running the loco.
Thanks for the time line info. on this loco and I agree it must nay have been stored for some time in a cold environment as I stated I bought it from a dealer in Minnesota. If I hadn't gotten such a great discount I wouldn't have bought it. I couldn't afford the price of a new one and I saw this one offered on line so I decided to buy it after all it is a beautiful loco. Bachmann really does a great job engineering the quality in the loco's details. I liked all the exposed brass as well.
I am concerned about the drive gear cracking in the future but with the milled flat area in the gear I hope the pressure on the gear is less than on a gnarled axle one. It would be great if Bachman would offer the new metal gears/gear box on the parts page.
Do you think it would be worth calling NWSL and asking them if they have the replacement gear in the milled drive shaft version or call Bachmann and see if I could get a gnarled drive shaft to match the new gear from NWSL?
Thanks again for your response and look forward to your thoughts on the above question.
Later Dr. Who 12
All you can do is ask! But why not just go ahead and get the replacement gear already mounted on the axle. It is cheap.
http://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_69_145&products_id=4833
Thanks Loco Bill you have been most helpful.
I'll order the axel assembly that way I can replace the gear either way if NWSL has a corresponding gear that will fit the milled axel.
Later
DrWho12
Hi Loco Bill
You mentioned that you have a 2-6-0 Russian Iron Spectrum Mogul.
Have you installed a sound system in your loco or run it without sound or did your loco come with factory sound installed? I ran my loco last month for about 10 min outside and really missed not having the chuff sound at least in my loco. I was thinking of a way to wire a 4-6-0 tender that has a sound/chuff board in it to my loco. I have the same 2 wire plug on the loco as on the 4-6-0 however it is reversed on the 2-6-0 but there is a female plug in the 2-6-0 tender that I think I could use to connect the loco to the 4-6-0 tender, as an experiment, thus I would have sound for my 2-6-0. If this experiment works then I'll order the 4-6-0 sound board and install it in my 2-6-0 tender with a rechargeable 9 volt battery.
My budget is kind of low now but I could buy the Bachmann board and battery. Do you think I'll be wasting my time and recourses or should I wait till I can afford a better sound system?
If so what system would you recommend?
Thanks in advance
Dr. Who 12
No I do not have the Russian Iron version, mine is the Rio Grande version, but none of them have factory sound(the latest releases are DCC and sound "ready"). Since I run battery power, controlled by the REvolution radio control I use their generic steam receiver which gives me bell and whistle as well as the chuff. Remember the Bachmann sound board provides only the chuff without a bell or whistle sound.
I personally believe you will never regret getting a sound board with the bell and whistle.
I am not up to date on sound boards, and there are many out there since sound is now in such high demand.
Here is a link to info on sound that Kevin Strong posted awhile back which may be helpful to get you started.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,28196.0.html
You can check out their web sites for current info and pricing.
Hopefully other forum members might chime in with their ideas!
Have fun!
Thanks for the info Loco Bill. I'll take your advice and wait till I can afford installing better sound equipment.
Is the loco set you bought the same vintage as mine or newer? Also I noticed that the gear axle assembly from Bachmann's parts page is the same as what is in my loco ( flat milled axle and milled gear) when did Bachmann change to the milled configuration instead of the gnarled one? Perhaps I will get a longer service out of the milled axel as I think it might not put as much strain on the gear as the gnarled gear/axle. The chuff barrel on the chuff trigger axel was really thin and I think it failed/cracked because of the stress on it as on the gnarled drive gear cracks. Perhaps all this is why Bachmann uses metal gears in their newer reissued 2-6-0 locos a nice up grade either way.
Thanks for answering my questions and advice.
Dr. Who 12
Welcome! Mine is the year 2000 version. I believe the new axle is from the current release.
Hi Loco Bill
Thanks for the info.
Later
Dr. Who 12
Bachmann Forum
I have been away in the Hospital but before I went there I decided to change out the Stevenson valve gear on my S.P.C. 4-6-0 Annie. to the more mechanical Walschaerts valve gearing.
I thought this wouldn't that much of a job but the more I got into it I was going to scrap the project and reinstall the original valve gearing. I ordered a chassis with the Walschaerts because Bachmann was offering a 20% discount so I figured now is the time to do this.
I must say this change over takes a lot of thinking due to the drilling of specific holes and other aspects. As it stands now I still have to finish up assembling everything but I'll have to wait till I finish up with some kidney stone treatments. I'll post a more detailed report when I'm feeling better.
Later
Dr Who `12
Hi All
Well I thought I might be able to go outside ,I woke up to a beautiful sunny, day and run some trains today but the weather turned cloudy and cold that's the way it is here on the North Coast.
Feeling much better so I finished up the install of the Wallcharts valve gear mechanicals on my South Pacific Coast Annie and what an improvement. With the brass on the engine and the metal valve gearing this engine looks great. All I need are some passenger cars and this train will be complete.
I also worked on modifying my ET&WNC Annie to the changes to the chassis and pilot and pilot wheels as depicted on the web by Tweetsie 4-6-0. This was a lot of work but the engine has a completely different look to it from stock as the front of the engine is shorter looking.
Doing this will limit the engine to 5ft and larger dia. curves though.
Also I was looking at a G scale spectrum caboose with die cast trucks and metal wheels but I'm wondering how well the die cast trucks will hold up any advice out there?
That's it for now
Dr Who 12
My son has two of the Spectrum Caboose cars, bought when they first came out. They have been great performers and are run in all kinds of weather.
Thanks for the reply and info Bill.
I have installed a set of after market die cast leaf spring trucks on my ET&WNC Annie. I noticed that it appears that Bachmann may have used the same trucks or similar on the caboose. I was a bit concerned as the die cast metal used in my trucks seams a bit fragile. I like the look and the spring action but I'm happy to know that they probably will hold up. At least as well as your son's have.
Thanks again.
Dr Who 12
PS I took your advice and ordered a new axel/gear for my 2-6-0 mogul. When it is delivered I'm going to explore a way of strengthening the gear with a fiberglass epoxy composite or take the gear to a local machine shop and get a price on making a brass one to fit the shaft. Perhaps I should consider replacing all the gears with brass ones?
Might be overkill on the gear issue. In my own case I have not had any problems with the replacement gear on my 2-6-0 and I have not yet seen even a single report on the failure of one of the replacement gears.
Anyone have any failure reports on a failure of a replacement gear?????
As for the caboose, a little lube goes a long way! Teflon grease at the bolster and lite oil for the axles.
Thanks for the reply Bill.
I'll take your advice about the gears and not go beyond the replacement gear/axel I ordered.
I found some ball bearings for the die cast trucks and installed a set in 2 of the 3 trucks I have but I think I will leave the last truck as is and use the oil and grease as you recommend.
On another note I was thinking of installing body mount couplers on these tenders with the die cast trucks but Bachmann is sold out of the spectrum ones in the parts listing so what would you recommend as replacements?
Thanks in advance
Dr Who 12
Back to the caboose, they do have some very fragile parts on the trucks. The brake beams for sure. they are easy to break if they hit something in the track, so be careful in that respect.
I have not done a body mount coupler on a 4-6-0 tender, so maybe someone reading this can give a recommendation. I do know some have used the Kadee brand of couplers with success, but I don't know which model number.
Well the weather has been rainy and cold so I decided to buy some body mount couplers and install them on my 4-6-0 Annie loco's tenders.
At first this seamed like a daunting task but I made a height gauge ( I could have bought one but I figured I could save some bucks by making my own) so all the couplers would be the same and the install went quite well. I haven't modified the loco's pilot couplers yet but hope to sometime. The install on the tenders required making some custom height spacers and adjusting the coupler length but the result is very realistic and the couplers I bought couple very well.
I hope to be outside expanding my layout soon, weather permitting.
That's it from the North Coast.
Later Dr Who 12
I like doubleheading my Annies and so I added an operating front coupler. This is how I added an operating front coupler on my Annies using a Bachmann coupler in a stock coupler box. I posted it about 4 years ago.
http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,23753.msg188258.html#msg188258
It works fine on 10 foot diameter curves and switches. Down to the second last post in that old thread is a short video of a test I did using this modification.
Bill
The rain quit and our RR club went to east Cleveland Oh. to install a garden railroad at a farm themed metro park. This was hard work and we had 25 club members helping. This inspired me to take out my 8' dia.curved track in preparation for a 10' curved track layout and make the straight sections longer as well. this is going to require a nice 10' dia. curved trestle at one end. I want to build this instead of a lot of fill dirt I would have to buy also I think a trestle would look better.
I haven't installed working couplers on the front of my Annie's as Bill has but perhaps over this winter I might make that happen. His video shows another step in realism with our Railroads. Thanks for the inspiration Bill.
Later
Dr Who12
At a recent club function one of the guys told me he learned from an article he was reading that it warned of not using power transformers with the momentum function. This function starts your loco/train off in a slow speed progressing to desired running speed. The article stated that the Bachman motors will eventually burn out from this low voltage at startup.
I have an old 10 amp transformer with a rheostat/speed control that does somewhat the same thing and I'm wondering if I'll have problems with my locos. I have run quite while with no problems. The club member said it would be better to start the loco/train off at a higher speed then running speed. In my thinking starting off from a dead stop with a running speed would do more damage to the motor/gear box than starting off at a slow speed then ramping up to running speed this is more realistic as well.
Any thought on this would be appreciated thanks in advance.
Later Dr Who12
If I were you I would back away from this "genius" as he is wrong. See if you can find the article he got his info from so we can debunk it! :-\
Thanks Joe for the quick response.
I'll try contacting the club member and get the article.
Later Dr Who12
I agree totally with Joe on this, I have used momentum throttles with my 4-6-0's and others with absolutely no problem. Although I am now mostly battery and radio control I still use track power in my big yard, and I use a momentum throttle for the track powered switchers I use there. I have never had a problem.
Bill
I haven't posted anything for quite a while so I thought I would update and mention my latest. I just bought a Spectrum 120.3 caboose and it is amazing. If I didn't know it was a model, under the right setting it could pass for a real caboose.
Bachmann sure put the detail in this car a bit on the fragile side but that is to be expected with such detail. I was able to get it at a very low price so I couldn't pass it up.
The only thing is the couplers don't work with the Bachmann regular couplers however the caboose did include an extra set of couplers that I could attach to another freight car and run it ahead of the caboose.
Well that's it for now.
Later DrWho12
Actually the extra couplers were for replacing the ones on the caboose so it could run anywhere in the train with the 1:22.5 couplers.
Have fun!
Bill
Thanks Bill for the info it will be most helpful being able to run the caboose with my other Bachmann cars.
Later DrWho12