So I just got these off eBay today, and the ONE engine has EZ Mates couplers, but the other engine, and the cars all have the horn hooks... so my question is (if anyone is familiar with these) is what EZ Mate Couples should I get to replace on the rolling stock, and the Jupiter?
(Unfortunately, the board won't let me put the photos up, it says my "upload folder" is full, whatever that is... but it is a Bachmann "Jupiter", and a Bachmann "Union Pacific #119", and some "old west" rolling stock, also Bachmann, like what was in the Civil War sets... I can e-mail the images, I guess?)
To post pictures you have to upload them to a site like Photobucket, or something similar.
Instructions for posting pics from Photobucket can be found at: http://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,30172.0.html
Oh, wow! Thanks!
Okay, so here they are... as you can see, the UP #119 already has EZ Mate couplers... the Jupiter, and the rolling stock do not.
My question is, is what couplers should I get? I keep seeing things like "long", "medium", and "short"... Center shank, under shank, etc...
I have ZERO idea what I need for these, or how to figure it out!
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m122/Warflight/s-l1600.jpg)
(http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m122/Warflight/l1600.jpg)
PS... these are the seller's images... I didn't take them, as they won't arrive in the mail until Thursday... I'm hoping to have the couplers I need by the time they show)
Simply remove the screw to remove the coupler box and replace with center shank medium couplers of the brand of your choice.
It would behoove you, if you intend on buying more rolling stock as time goes along, to purchase a Kadee Coupler Height Gauge. I prefer the plastic version as this will not create a short if you put it on the tracks w/o turning the power off first. They also make a metal version. This way, no matter what you buy, you can gauge the coupler heights. You may find you need a coupler now and again that is other than a center shank, such as underset or overset shank. This opens up a world of other opportunities by allow you to also modify any rolling stock to be able to accept a center shank through adding styrene shims when there is no coupler box present to begin with. More on that if you want to know.
Regardless of what style spring coupler you get, I always put a very tiny dab of CA GEL glue on the spring at the end closest to the shank. This allows it to still operate but helps to keep the spring from flying off into outer space where you will never, ever find it. And then you will be left with an inoperable coupler until you replace the spring or the coupler. I do this before installation as it is easier that way.
Ooh, yes! I do want to know! At some pint, I do plan to replace the link bars on my John Bull, and my three Norris 4-2-0s with couplers... (in another thread, someone suggested N scale for those, but looking at their "wells" I don't know if N will work, plus... there is a simple joy to having a John Bull passenger carriage stuck caboose on a 4-4-0 American, just to see who notices!)
Apparently, I'm a sick monkey who messes with some folk's OCD... who knew?
And a BIG THANKS ACY... That answers my question PERFECTLY! Now to go order some couplers! (I'm told that Kaytee are cool and all, but, I'll probably go for the Bachmann EZ Mate II, for both price, and availability... that, and I'm told the EZ Mate II are on par with any others out there)
Okay! Just ordered 12 pair of the EZ Mate Mark II, Center Shank, Medium couplers!
Wish me luck folks!
Quote from: Warflight on March 13, 2017, 04:55:21 PM
I'm told the EZ Mate II are on par with any others out there)
Don't know who told you that. While they are good/adequate, they are NOT on par with Kadees, no debate.
After you get them and install them, would be interested to know from you, how their heights are/compare, against each other as well as the height of the coupler on the loco you are using to pull them.
Quote from: Warflight on March 13, 2017, 04:55:21 PM
Ooh, yes! I do want to know! At some pint
Just make it known, when that point is. ;)
Oh, will do! I'll even toss in some photos! (now that I know how, thanks to the good folks here!)
I think, if I do end up buying more stock, I may just have to start a drawer of just couplers of varying sizes... (and yeah, I'll give the Kadees a try some day, but, I already bought a 12 pack of EZ Mate Mark II for now)
This new Spectrum that came yesterday (and the two combines I got to go with it... Tyco... well... Mantua new stock, actually...) are the first trains I have ever purchased that have actual realistic couplers, and not horn hooks! (remember, I collected in the 80s, but walked away due to an ex wife that hated trains, hated hobbies, and hated happiness of any sort, and I'm brand new to the hobby once again)
Okay, so... I got the couplers, went to install them... the holes are awful big, while the posts, and the screws are small.
In theory, they don't fit, and I shouldn't try, but then, I got this weird idea... I cut some of the plastic from the packaging, trimmed it, melted a small hole, to use as a sort of washer that matches the underside... it worked out GREAT! There is a bit of give and take, but, honestly, the way it runs is QUITE realistic, how the cars compress when stopping!
This turned out better than I expected. (and no, you can't see the clear plastic washers I made once it's all put together)
Kadee makes an adapter https://kadee.com/htmbord/page212.htm (https://kadee.com/htmbord/page212.htm) for using large hole (Kadee, EZ-Mate, etc.) couplers in pockets designed for small hole horn-hook couplers.
Len
War Thunder, how about the heights I had inquired about?
The heights are perfect...
As for an adapter... I made a wonderful discovery... the way these couplers sit, when the train runs, and then stops, each stop there is a slight compression in all of the cars, much like what you see on a 1:1 railroad of that time period. I'm really liking it! I don't think I want that "fixed"!