Popped this one open today. Have I mentioned that I like Banta kits? Even the colors on his box art model grab me.
This one I vowed to myself, that I would document and photograph from start to completion. Follow along if you would like as I build the Silver Bull Saloon.
This is a modest little establishment, that thinks itself far more important to the town's prosperity than it actually is. False fronts rule!!!!
Step one is to get the kit open. Usually with craftsman kits, this is the point where most people chicken out, pack it all back up, and sell it to me at the swap meet for 10 bucks. But I digress. So.......open the box.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMkpVqxfwZGL.jpg)
Pull everything out, and before you even think of opening those nice baggies........find the instructions and start reading. Done reading? Good. Now read them again. And again.....and again and again.
That's good. Now if you can't read.......box everything up and sell it to me for 10 bucks.. While I'm reading, I am getting a mental image of how this thing goes together. Finally it's time to open them little baggies and start laying parts out.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMkphFxfwZGL.jpg)
After identifying all the pieces, it's time to start coloring everything that needs to get color. Only thing to remember here, is to never use water based paints on wood. OK.....almost never. ::) Seriously, if used incorrectly, or excessively, water based paints will warp your wood badly.
The side and rear walls got stained with good old Minwax from your local hardware store.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMkpq8xfwZGL.jpg)
The front wall panels got sprayed with a lacquer based paint.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMkp5yxfwZGL.jpg)
The upper wall trim panels got stained using dollar store furniture touch-up markers.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMkc3CxfwZGL.jpg)
As did the window frames and sill parts.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMkcEqxfwZGL.jpg)
I used an enamel based stain from Testors for the walkway planking......this is the "black" shade.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMkcbWxfwZGL.jpg)
And the "natural" shade got used on the other walkway panels. Note how the same stain changes tint from pine to birch plywood.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMkcwdxfwZGL.jpg)
And that's it for today. I have a hotrod swap meet to attend this Saturday and have to go scope out an old Duster on Sunday. More pics next week once I get back to the bench.
Enjoy!!
Sid
Can't wait to see the finished product. I've spent a lot of time looking and browsing around over Banta kits but
haven't found the one I could use on my layout. Gonna do it now.
Ken
Dear Sid,
Banta kits are the Bomb!
I have them on almost every display I've built, and on my LS layout as well.
And Bill is a great person, as well as a great modeler!
Have fun!
the Bach-man
Thanks guys ;D .....pull the trigger on a kit, Ken. You won't be disappointed. They even got the B'man's approval.
Sid
I'm watching this with baited breath (no.. not breath that smells like bait... okay... maybe a little like bait)
Anyway... I just recently bought my first ever wood laser cut model (and then bought three more) from BTS.... they are car kits, that will be riding behind my Bachmann Spectrum "Richmond" 4-4-0.
(seen here)
(https://img00.deviantart.net/84bd/i/2018/287/f/3/bachmann_spectrum_richmond_4_4_0_by_warflight-dcpf8ji.jpg)
The kits I'm planning to build are these:
(https://img00.deviantart.net/3f23/i/2018/287/7/3/wood_craftsman_kits_by_warflight-dcpf963.jpg)
(https://img00.deviantart.net/439c/i/2018/287/9/1/wood_craftsman_kits_by_warflight-dcpf94r.jpg)
So watching what you're doing is going to help me out a LOT! I am determined to build these...
I even started on the trucks I plan to use (all metal, for the extra weight)
(https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/sites/model-railroad-hobbyist.com/files/users/Warflight/IMG_2888.JPG?620)
This is a great thread so far!
Oh, and as far as the importance of the town saloon... I believe it was Benjamin Franklin who once said that it was important for a town to build it's tavern first, bef0ore the church, as there are meetings of a political nature that wouldn't be polite to have in the church, but church services can always be held at the tavern.
Thanks Warflight. Hope you enjoy this build.
Not really sure who Benjamin Franklin is other than he invented the lightning rod I think. And BTW......the term is "bated breath". Nothing to do with fishing ;D
Anyhow........back to it here.
Stripwood. Lotsa stripwood. All needs to be colored. I grabbed Flo-Quil Stain Marker and went at it. I have 6 or so shades, this was Colonial Maple.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMqfkvxfwZGL.jpg)
Now that the pesky messy work is out of the way, assembly can begin. Starting with the floor assembly and the left and right front walls, carefully fit and align to the slots and test fit everything before you proceed with the stickem stuff. Once satisfied with the fit, glue up all the tabs and slots sparingly, and assemble. Be sure everything fits flush and is fully seated in position.
Front walls................
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMqBAJxfwZGL.jpg)
And side walls...........note the reversed clothespins as clamps. That was a little tip I got from Bill at Banta Modelworks.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMqB8vxfwZGL.jpg)
Make your way around to the rear walls, again making sure everything stays snug and secure as the glue sets.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMq6U2xfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMq6uvxfwZGL.jpg)
Use clamps where needed to make sure nothing moves and also to ensue a secure bond. Those fancy angle clamps are Right-Clamps available from Micro-Mark. The blue plastic bar clamps are also from Micro-Mark. They are my choice for hobby tools.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMq6N3xfwZGL.jpg)
Next we start on assembling the front tower. Locate all the pieces and glue together. Weight and clamp until set.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMqtQZxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMqtTqxfwZGL.jpg)
Once dry, insert the bottom of the tower into it's slots and roll the top back and against the main building. Let the glue set.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMqYkrxfwZGL.jpg)
We now have a completed inner substructure. Banta kits are usually a plywood inner core covered with scribed sheetwood or stripwood. This one is no exception.
Weight down the floor and let everything set up tight overnight.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMqP22xfwZGL.jpg)
Rear and Front views.................
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMq785xfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JMqRN2xfwZGL.jpg)
Stay tuned for more.......................
Sid
I'm not touching my dial. Lookin' good so far. Not overly too complicated either.
Ken
Sid,
On the edge of my seat! Thanks for letting us in on this. Cant wait!
Regards,
Jonathan
Looking good.
I'll have to try those reversed clothes pin clamps on my next cardstock project.
Len
While I was in a craft store, I found some some clothes pins that are less than half the size of the regular ones. They come in handy for small jobs. Now, I can reverse them and make them even handier.
This morning I got to spend a good four hours at the bench with tunes and morning refreshments ;D
Today's task was the blue siding and the accompanying trim the goes around the panels. This is tedious, and requires a lot of delicate sanding to ensure everything lines up nicely. Test and check and test and check before gluing anything. I like to mark the backs of the pieces too so I readily know their position and orientation.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz2iACxfwZGL.jpg)
Begin with one wall and work from center outwards.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz2DEFxfwZGL.jpg)
And in a couple hours you have the ground floor all done. Alignment of the panels to the door and window openings is critical at this step. Don't rush it.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz2D5WxfwZGL.jpg)
Then the porch roof gets built up. It is an inner plywood core with engraved pieces for each side. Fit the core pieces to the main walls carefully. Sand slowly and carefully and check the fit often.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz24hWxfwZGL.jpg)
Once you are satisfied with the fit of the substructure, attach it to the main walls. Allow the glue to set. The tools set vertically into the holes are there to help coax a small warp out of the wood while it sets.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz2mf8xfwZGL.jpg)
Fit the panels that make up the porch roof ceiling.................with these, the critical alignment points are the post holes.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz2TAdxfwZGL.jpg)
Once that is all glued, clamp it securely and let set. The siding and any sheet material has a bad tendency to warp when using white glues. My choice is the E6000 solvent based glue. Apply with a round toothpick and slap the pieces together. You have a couple of minutes to positon things before it cures. Strip wood gets white glue.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz2TtNxfwZGL.jpg)
When attaching the siding panels, I mentioned the alignment at the windows is critical. Here I have used a piece of 1/32nd inch plywood spacer to help hold things in position. Even the laser guys have tolerances. ::) ;D
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz2TRnxfwZGL.jpg)
And on the other wall, the siding comes down flush with the porch roof and is aligned with the window openings.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz2TiyxfwZGL.jpg)
Finally, this is the mornings work. Most of the blue siding panels are installed. I got other stuff to do now lol. :D
More soon!
Sid
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jz2TTjxfwZGL.jpg)
Wow! What a great job so far. I doubt that I could do that good.
Today was a day to double check all the steps I have completed so far, and try and ensure I haven't missed anything.
I chose to deviate from the instructions a bit, and add and access door for the balcony. As designed, the kit would have the good folks crawlin' outta windows to access the balcony. A quick peek through a few boxes turned up a few good candidates. Man I hate choices.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jze915xfwZGL.jpg)
When in doubt, go simple, so I chose the cast white metal plank door. I added some 4 X 4 trim from the kit and a scrap of the blue siding for the panel above. Now comes the time to true up that top edge of the panels. For this I used a single edged razor blade and a file.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jze97NxfwZGL.jpg)
I also strayed from the instructions a bit, and started to add the sidewall cladding. It helps to get the corner trim alignment accurate. Also the upper panel trim of the second floor is getting installed.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jze9kMxfwZGL.jpg)
And that was a morning. Not a lot accomplished visually, but things are adjusted and the next steps should go smoothly.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jze9SrxfwZGL.jpg)
More to come..............
Sid.
This just keeps getting better and better...
Ken
Thanks Ken. In reviewing the photos, I have spotted a problem area. It may or may not be an easy fix.
I seem to have forgotten to allow the 32nd of an inch clearance that I did for the panels on that side. It's going to make the floorboards look funny when they but up against the door instead of going under it.
Hmmmmmm
Sid
That is a pickle. I suppose prying the door away is out as white metal is really soft (will bend). At the same time, the metal is hard enough that trimming with a knife is difficult. Also could make a mess of that great-looking trim.
How much adhesive did you use? Can you cut a hole, from behind the door? You know, to release the glue. Spitballing.
You might possibly be able to use a wheel, with a motor tool, to trim the bottom of the door, being extra careful around the corner trim.
Of course, from 12 inches away you won't be able to tell (ignore it). That's probably not an option for you. I've seen your work... meticulous.
Regards,
Jonathan
I had never heard of Banta and checked them out. Those are beautiful kits and most are sized well for small model railroads. I really like Clara's cabinets front. It's just what I need to make into a rice mill. And the Oakboro country store too. I remember wooden buildings like these all around 60 years ago that are all gone now.
Quote from: WoundedBear on October 16, 2018, 07:42:19 PM
Thanks Ken. In reviewing the photos, I have spotted a problem area. It may or may not be an easy fix.
I seem to have forgotten to allow the 32nd of an inch clearance that I did for the panels on that side. It's going to make the floorboards look funny when they but up against the door instead of going under it.
Hmmmmmm
Sid
You might be able to use the back of a #11 blade to scribe a line across the door just above where the floor boards will hit. This will make it look like the door ends above the floor boards. Especially if you add circular scrape marks to the floor, as if the door dragged when opened.
Len
Well, I looked at the area long and hard this morning.......and decided to screw it. lol ;D I'll put a figure in front reaching for the door and take a viewer's eye away from it. After all, it is only a seam barely 7/16" long. Smoke and mirrors, guys, smoke and mirrors. That's what good modelling is all about. It's how well you hide your mistakes.
The upper level of siding is installed, and you can see in the first photo how the detail gets built up by layering 1/32nd inch plywood parts. Again, be careful if you use white glue here, as it will warp the thin wood almost instantly. Apply sparingly or use something like E6000 or Walthers Goo.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jzf1FoxfwZGL.jpg)
This is todays progress. The last of the front fascia is installed as is all it's accompanying trim. Now I have yard work to finish up before it snows again.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jzfp3NxfwZGL.jpg)
More coming........
Sid
Going back and diverging a little bit- Benjamin Franklin was a US founding father who not only invented the lightning rod, he invented the US five dollar bill for a nation so grateful they put his picture on it! 😂😂😂
Quote from: Trainman203 on October 19, 2018, 10:42:51 PM
Going back and diverging a little bit- Benjamin Franklin was a US founding father who not only invented the lightning rod, he invented the US five dollar bill for a nation so grateful they put his picture on it! 😂😂😂
Something doesn't quite ring true about that, but I can't be bothered to Google it.....lol.
Anyhow, on with the show.
Decking!! Individual planks to make up the porch and balcony decks. I had stained these black already, but once they got separated, I saw that the edges were bare. A black Sharpie took care of this quickly and easily. The black edge helps to make the individual boards stand out a bit. Another way to accomplish the accentuated line is to mix a touch of black acrylic paint into your white glue.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JzyUyoxfwZGL.jpg)
And an NWSL Chopper III makes short work of cutting the planks to length. Don't forget to dab each board's end with the marker or you will see the light line against the wall.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jzy9QvxfwZGL.jpg)
Every kit build has it's PITA moment or step. This deck planking was it for the kit. This was three days of tedium beyond delerium :P But the end results are usually worth the effort. Use whatever coping method you find best for times like these lololol.
Cut and fit and cut and fit some more. Work in different spots to help avoid warping anything.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Jzy9juxfwZGL.jpg)
At this point, I was unsure if the decking went under the front doors or not, so I built up the two front entrance doors to check the fit. Turns out, the planks go under the doors as they should. The doors are multi layered, so the two tone thing is easily done. The glazing is held in with a small drop of glue in each corner. The laser cut glazing fits the opening so well, that it is almost a friction fit, but the glue helps ease my OCD. ;D
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JzyEhqxfwZGL.jpg)
Around we go, finally ending with the odd angled pieces and the front sections of the walkways.You can see how the blackened edges help accentuate each board.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JzyuBGxfwZGL.jpg)
The last step is to open up the post holes from bottom to top with a drill bit. The posts that go in are square, so, being that it is hard to put a square peg in a round hole, I use a small square riffler file to reshape the drilled holes.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JzyH3dxfwZGL.jpg)
Then for a laugh, we went and worked on this for my son today. This is a front axle assembly from a 1930 Ford Model AA. We were amazed that with a little heat and some persuasion from a 12 Ton press, it all came apart. The only exception was a bearing that had welded itself to the left spindle. Did I ever mention that I'm into cars almost as much as I am model building? 8)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JzyeGdxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2JzyZvqxfwZGL.jpg)
Have fun guys......more to come.
Sid
That's good stuff Sid!
Looks like the N Scale part of Banta Modelworks was sold to Commercial Scale Models, which seems to be a part of The Building & Structure Co., and Ulrich Model Kits.
Had to go the long way around before I got to where I wanted to go.
Good to see they are still being made.
That Pro Patria Mill kit will be is already on my Christmas wish list.
https://www.ulrichmodelkits.com/store/n-scale/96-pro-patria-mill.html
Did you notch the floor boards first or just drill through them and then square them away?
Trying to pre-notch the floorboards just makes them split. The holes were drilled then shaped with a small, square file.
Sid
I've made square hole punches by shaping and sharpening the end of some K&S square brass tubing to look like these "bigger brother" punches:
(http://www.leevalley.com/us/images/item/Woodworking/Chisels/50k5903s7.jpg)
You still have to predrill a round hole, but it gives consistently sized and shaped corners without worrying if you're filing off too much.
Len
Neat idea Len. Thanks for that.
Today's work involved getting the last of the outer wall panels attached. I decided to give spray adhesive a shot this time, rather then the E6000 or Walthers Goo I usually use.
I was happy with the results. Quick and easy. A light coat, and press together while still almost wet. Don't let it tack too much. This stuff also guarantees no warping.
Be careful here at the corners of the building, as there is a 4 X 4 trim strip to run up the notch that is formed at the point the two panels meet.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoU9yGxfwZGL.jpg)
The spray adhesive also worked really well for the roof panels. I use airplane silkspan to represent rolled roofing material. Another effective way to attach the strips to the panel is to use Dullcote. Spray the roof and set the strips into the wet Dullcote, then overspray with more Dullcote.
What ever you choose for adhesive, draw a few guidelines first, cut your strips, spray the panel and apply the silkspan.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoUuuCxfwZGL.jpg)
Then I spent some time pondering the build and adjusting my mood, and decided that this one needed lights. I think a white frosting on the windows and some lights behind will look good. First thing is some quick and effective bulb holders. Drill a couple 1/32nd inch holes in a piece of strip wood and glue it to the wall. The tower just got a couple holes drilled and the wires routed through the walls themselves and tied. I'll get everything mounted and decide how to connect them all and exit the building.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoUuY5xfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoUuyqxfwZGL.jpg)
And lastly for today..............a shot of where the magic all happens. This is my modeling bench and work table. Coffee, tunes and my pipe and I am a happy boy. ;D
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoU9gqxfwZGL.jpg)
Looking good.
I think I may try some of that E6000 on some of the heavier, 1mm - 2mm thick, pieces of my next cardstock project. Just like with wood, sometimes you get warping with white glues, and 'Super Glues' don't give much time for adjustments if needed.
Len
Man, you have a big magic shop!
Structure looking great. Getting excited for the big finish.
Regards,
Jonathan
Yeah. I'd love to have a dedicated project space like that. I have to make due with a portable drafting board with the tilt legs folded up, and a couple of plastic tubs to keep supplies in.
Len
Today......another morning of work has come and gone. Today we got the roof panels trimmed and painted. Trim as needed, flush in some spots, other areas get an eighth inch overhang. A bit of strip wood for the ends of the eaves.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoawVCxfwZGL.jpg)
And a dusting of black and grey primers to serve as a base coat of color.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoawCgxfwZGL.jpg)
Back to the lighting now. The little bulb holders were glued and clamped in place overnight then I strung the wires through the holes. Five bulbs should provide enough light. These are grain of rice bulbs, and with wood buildings, heat isn't really an issue anyways.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoawLWxfwZGL.jpg)
One wire from each bulb got routed through each hole in the floor, then I bundled those groups together and soldered the ends. Positive to one lead and negative to the other for those of you struggling with DC wiring. Then I built a strip styrene foundation to protect the wires and allow space for them. The styrene also ensures that the floor stays FLAT over time. The wires get tapes to the bottom for safekeeping while I finish up.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoawygxfwZGL.jpg)
Test Fire!!!
Gotta make sure chit works now, before you get too far along lol. Grabbed an old MRC TechII that I have for such occasions. I'm liking it so far ;D
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoafbqxfwZGL.jpg)
Now that the electrical is out of the way...........I can get back to the build.
Windows are next on the to-do list. Six pieces make up each of the upper floor windows assemblies. A frame, a sill, two sashes and two panes of "glass" Laser kits usually have self adhesive backing on the sashes to make glazing a breeze. Banta kits are no exception. Once the window is built up, place it into the wall opening and secure with a drop of glue in each corner.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoafPWxfwZGL.jpg)
I didn't do any sort of an interior for this building, so I had to frost the windows to hide the internal wiring.
Clear windows would have looked like this.......
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoaAoWxfwZGL.jpg)
By spraying the backside of the glazing with a light mist of Dull-Cote I got this effect. No wires visible, but all the light comes through. It also has the bonus of going darkish once the lights go out too.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoafNqxfwZGL.jpg)
So.....after today, I have this on my bench. Next is more windows.
Sid
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoafnyxfwZGL.jpg)
This morning's task was to get the windows and door finished up. The main floor windows are a single sash and a little different frame. No sill this time, just two trim pieces to adorn the frame. Here's all six front windows ready to be installed.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Eopp6LxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2Eoppg5xfwZGL.jpg)
The back and side windows and doors are all installed as of today......................
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoppjWxfwZGL.jpg)
And the front fascia is done with the exception of the right hand front door. I need to let the glue on the left door set up before I can start aligning the right door in the opening.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EopceyxfwZGL.jpg)
More soon.............
Sid
Awesomesauce!
R,
Jonathan
;D Thanks Jon!
This morning was an abbreviated session. Got the front porch posts cut and installed. Note the slight bevel sanded into the bottom edge of the one. This helps guide it through those holes. A small dab of glue secures everything, once you ensure the upper balcony is square and level.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoBDq3xfwZGL.jpg)
Then the fancy scroll work trim. Man, this stuff is paper thin and delicate. A small piece did crack off as I was trying to remove the sections from the carrier sheet, but with some fine tweezer work it was able to be fit back into place. I just used a flat white primer on these parts..........same as the window sashes.
Gluing them down is tricky. I first thought spray glue, but nope......didn't even attempt it after a second thought. A paint brush and thinned white glue was next thought. In the end, I rubbed the backsides across the top of a school glue stick, those ones that go on purple and dry clear. Then with the tweezers, drop it into place and gently press it home to secure it.
These really stand out on the facade.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoB4TvxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoBmWvxfwZGL.jpg)
Enjoy!
Sid
My personal tastes would have had me omitting the scroll work but that's just me. Maybe just simple curved pieces in the corners would have done it for me. You did a great job with it.
Thanks Terry. I think as I go along and add more trim, you will see that the scroll work becomes a little less prominent. The building is supposed to have that wild west look to it.
Today was another short session. My wife is home from work for the week, she works two weeks in and one week out, in a camp in northern BC. It's a "fly-in" type of job.
Anyhow.......this morning I managed to get the balcony support pieces cut and installed, and the piece of 2X4 that goes under them at the front edge. Also the lower corbels got glued in place today. Here's more of that white trim to offset the scroll work ;)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EokV9WxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EokVwdxfwZGL.jpg)
And finally, the roof panels got final fit and glued down permanently. I drilled a small hole for the stack to poke through.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EokVqFxfwZGL.jpg)
So here we sit, 2 weeks from when I started, with over 50 hours into this and close to a week still to go......I think. I never try to predict how fast I can build. It takes as long as it takes ;) More pics as we get them!
Sid
Can't wait until this place opens up. Will there a piano player ?
Ken
Turning out top-notch!
I don't know what the kit supplies for railing on the upper deck... chain would look great... or 2X4s... either way, it's an eye-catcher.
Regards,
Jonathan
Rolling right along..........
Had a long morning today. My Ol' Lady took off with my buddy's Ol' Lady early to go shopping. Turn up the tunes ;D
Today was all about getting the false front, top edge trim finished. These little pieces hide the plywood look the edges have from laminating all the layers together. The first picture shows one dead center. The little curved piece.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoCTfnxfwZGL.jpg)
Yes, curved. Flat pieces don't like curves. Until you convince them it's all right. In the next picture you can see how I use the handle of my X-Acto knife as a mandrel to form the piece around. Once shaped, it is much easier to have the glue hold it in place.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoCSYrxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoCVoVxfwZGL.jpg)
Work your way across both edges until everything is capped nicely. Be sure all the little bits are in alignment. Just prior to doing the capping, the two rear false front panels got glued on the rear face.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoChvrxfwZGL.jpg)
The next thing to work on, is the roof and rear panels of the tower peak. First thing that is needed is a cleat across the bottom to glue the backboards to.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoChCWxfwZGL.jpg)
Using 2X6 or 2X8 material, plank in and form the roof and rear wall, then add trim at the bottom. The back edge of the roof panel was left jagged for a little visual interest.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoCW1qxfwZGL.jpg)
Now the handrails..............
Jonathan......I liked your chain idea. But when I got looking, I had nothing suitable. That G scale diorama I built last year ate up a lot of my scale chain. It's on the re-stock list. I chose to go with traditional wooden railings. The balcony is done. I capped the 6X6 posts with a 4X6 for a rail, and made toe boards from 2X4. Doubled up across the tower to add some detail. The lower level rails are started, again using 2X4.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2EoCn7NxfwZGL.jpg)
And that's all for now folks. Tomorrow is an adventure. We're heading about 90 miles east of town here to go scout out another 37 Dodge. Wish us luck.
Yeah, more car stuff. For those of you into cars, here's vids of me and my buddy from last summer. I'm in the blue altered T and Buddy is in the Copper T roadster.
Enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlIkL4C91mM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlIkL4C91mM)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6g3Rf59vPrs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6g3Rf59vPrs)
Watch the tires crack....................
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOXhL_Q0TwU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOXhL_Q0TwU)
Sid
That is a really nice building. Looks like it could go any layout. Thanks for the step-by-step
and have fun tomorrow. I really enjoyed following along on your 'blog'.
Ken
Amazing work!
This gives me confidence to do some of my own B.T.S. kits... Thanks for sharing! You RAWKK!
That second video - Was he drifting over to the inside on that?
The building looks great.
Gorgeous! I want to step in and have a drink at the bar.
Regards,
Jonathan
I might get that building. Although, modeling a later period, I'd remove the half circular parts of the cornice, leave off the jigsaw scrollwork, and either paint it white or make the whole thing unpainted wood .
Quote from: Trainman203 on October 28, 2018, 01:02:05 PM
I might get that building. Although, modeling a later period, I'd remove the half circular parts of the cornice, leave off the jigsaw scrollwork, and either paint it white or make the whole thing unpainted wood .
Hell of an idea. These Banta kits do lend themselves to your own personal touches. Bill even states in the instructions to "just toss the instructions out and build it your way".
And Terry...........ya that little car squirts around. It's only got a 98 inch wheelbase and 700 horsepower lol. The whole trick is to keep the back from passing the front. ;D
We went searching yesterday and found tetanus. Was hard to actually tell where the cars stopped and the ground began. Turned out we went to see a 1938 Chrysler Royal. It's been in this spot a loooooong time. Only thing worth saving was the grill and shell. It's hanging on our shop wall for now. here's a few pics before we get back to the build.
1938 Chrysler royal.............
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E236B8xfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23BMoxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23tHUxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23tNdxfwZGL.jpg)
Check the grill on this 1958 Brookwood wagon.............wow!! :o
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23ceNxfwZGL.jpg)
And this 1951 Pontiac almost came home with us............but we're Dodge guys at heart.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23AT8xfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23BtuxfwZGL.jpg)
Next up...........more saloon.
Sid
Back at the bench this morning. The end is in sight.
First thing today was locate all the little corbels for the short roofs. Itty bitty, teeny tiny little miserable pieces of.............ya they can be a bear to deal with. Sharpen the tweezer points and get at it. Once installed they just add another level of detail.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23bB8xfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23bDMxfwZGL.jpg)
The sign boards were next. These are impossibly delicate and would no doubt look great hanging on the front corners. But, realistically, I asked myself, how long would they last? I opted for a little more robust and simpler method of mounting the Hotel signs.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23KTNxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E231fzxfwZGL.jpg)
Got a few smaller signs made for the eaves of the front porch. All edges have been colored with a brown fine point Sharpie to hide the white paper edges.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E2314NxfwZGL.jpg)
Now comes the building's namesake..........The Silver Bull. To show off his wealth, the casino owner had a bull's head cast in silver and mounted on the tower.
Carefully remove the head from the carrier sprue, then shape the horns with needles files.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23bTyxfwZGL.jpg)
Drill a .020" hole in the back of the head and gluein a short piece of wire with CA as a mounting pin.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23bM5xfwZGL.jpg)
A light wash of black enamel stain gives the casting that oxidized silver look I needed.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23K13xfwZGL.jpg)
Finally, drill another .020" hole in the tower wall and slide the casting home. A drop of white glue secures it in place.
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E23KBzxfwZGL.jpg)
And that's all for today................
Sid
Actually those old cars would make great modeling projects, out behind a barn or something.
Quote from: Trainman203 on October 28, 2018, 08:21:01 PM
Actually those old cars would make great modeling projects, out behind a barn or something.
Behind a barn is exactly where we found those. All around us was a section of fresh cut, prime Alberta wheatfield.
And..........back to the build.
Today is the end of it. I am done. Finito. Over. No more parts. I have started to add a few people around the structure. It"s the place to be and be seen, after all. I found two suitable figures for a corner of the balcony. Negotiations are under way ;D
Left, right and head on views. So, this is a doable project for an average modeler in 4 - 5 weeks. Most folks don't work at my pace. I did it in just under 3 weeks I think. Had I not done the lighting or the tower door, I probably could have been from box to layout in 2 weeks.
No real troubles with anything. If you can read and follow directions, these are fun to build, and look so much better than plastic buildings. I hope this little write up inspires some of you to have a go at laser kits.
Till the next project................
Sid
Welcome to the Grand Hotel's Silver Bull Saloon and Restaurant!
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E2a5FnxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E2aNJjxfwZGL.jpg)
(https://media.fotki.com/2v2E2aNSMxfwZGL.jpg)
You did a really good job. Did you forget a bottom rail behind the guy?
Quote from: Terry Toenges on October 29, 2018, 07:12:31 PM
You did a really good job. Did you forget a bottom rail behind the guy?
Yep.....I sure did. Thanks. I'll fix that up in the morning.
Sid
Sid,
That is real craftsman-type work.
I bow in your general direction.
Thanks for taking us through this project. I'm blown away!
Regards,
Jonathan
The "lady" 😂😂😂😂 upstairs is a nice detail too!! I have a similar "hotel" on my layout, a modified Model Power "Western Union" building.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Model-Power-HO-Scale-Two-Story-Western-Union-Office/1900960852
I painted mine brick red, the casework dark green, cut off the diagonal bracing from the columns and removed the horse tie up bars, trimmed out a lot of mullions from the windows and doors to modernize them, and filed the remaining ones a lot thinner.
Filed the handrails and spindles a lot thinner too. Left off the water tank, telephone wire things, and sign too. Came out ok . If I knew how I'd put a picture up. Named it "Hattie's" after a fine establishment back home we used to snicker about in the 8th grade as only 8th grade boys can.