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Discussion Boards => General Discussion => Topic started by: Terry Toenges on April 06, 2019, 01:26:22 PM



Title: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 06, 2019, 01:26:22 PM
I started redoing my layout. I got HO stuff on the oval and upper point-to-point right now because my grandson is bringing my great grandson down today and he likes to watch the trains. I just hooked up the DC power to the oval for now. I'll set up for the On30 after they leave.
It took me a lot of experimenting with different track pieces to get the wye right in the space I had to work with. I had to go outside the box and using a crossing with it. I didn't have the crossing so I hard to order it and got it yesterday. I already have the reversing unit. I've got an "S" in there but it couldn't be helped.
Now that I have this part figured out, I'll have to get some foam to put the extension on the right side so I can connect the bottom track with top track. It will go behind the "mountains". I'm going to have to lower the right side top track some. I haven't figured out the measurements for the grade yet.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56610391_10157143416785522_8755528623760343040_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=17fdb9bf0d0f2648765c115061e73d6e&oe=5D3C1F72)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56398395_10157143417090522_4192024789705031680_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=e401bf9c7690abb7cc9b0442cf9fa16e&oe=5D4383F6)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56474536_10157143417165522_7267554959455944704_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=b407579469581fc1990762e5537dd1fa&oe=5D390906)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56402065_10157143417400522_3377973984254492672_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=465af3ee044d400d7fa851cfe5f253ca&oe=5D508430)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56835564_10157143417535522_7460055024295477248_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=bfa9e975bc640192359dc50e0b6e7583&oe=5D4217C4)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on April 06, 2019, 09:13:04 PM
Nice example of a scissors wye, Terry!  And you made it your own with the bend in the middle.  Must have taken a lot of planning and mis-fitting of pieces.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 06, 2019, 11:40:58 PM
It did take a lot of trial and error. Originally, I had tried a standard wye without the crossing but I didn't have enough room on the tail end of it to curve it inside the base of the grade. I'm going to enlarge the tunnel hole. Instead of the left turnout (in the middle) I had a right turnout on the opposite track in front of the left one for the wye (with a couple pieces running along the base of the grade toward the bridge).
I wanted to be able to set off some cars once I got into the wye so I would be able to turn around and pick up the cars again.
Now, if I have four cars, I can back in there and dump two cars. Pull out and then backup with the other two to the tail of the wye. Then move forward to the main and back the cars onto the oval and drop them. Then move move forward and back up into the wye. When I get to the tail, I flip the switch and move forward to the next turnout. Back into that one and pick up the other two cars and reverse the procedure until I'm able to couple those two to the two in the oval. Then, I get back on the main and I'm going the opposite direction.
I'll probably put another turnout on the far side of the oval for some kind of industry. I will put some industry on the top level.
I have my On30 Heisler, Porter, and Mogul so I'll have to figure out what to use where. It would be nice to see the Climax reissued.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 09, 2019, 02:08:22 AM
I put my plan into Anyrail to work out some "fudging" places on it. I now have it to where everything will fit properly without cheating. I wish Anyrail had more structure options. I don't know if I can do any kind of terrain with Anyrail to show that the back part is up on the mountain.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56757402_10157149627815522_358961731533275136_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=d223c8e44215ddbada0235276e39f8c2&oe=5D487C92)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on April 09, 2019, 10:15:34 AM
Just a wee bit curious about that tail track. Have you actually run the On30 trains through it? How did that work out?


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 09, 2019, 12:06:19 PM
I just now tried it. It looks like it will be ok. It doesn't look like it on the Anyrail.  I won't be leaving anything parked that close to the end. I have room for two freight cars and Porter. I will be widening the tunnel portal. I was thinking about cutting down a 15" radius piece to give me a few more inches on the tail. Originally, I was worried that I was going to have to cut down some turnouts to make it work. I don't mind cutting a piece of track but turnouts are expensive. As it is now, I don't have to do any cutting.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/57019485_10157150388130522_1156542200692080640_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=31b91216e366659ac248b8af403ceb97&oe=5D069D70)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56539164_10157150388595522_6169979004720775168_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=66a7554985fdf17840a413379a30b942&oe=5D3E8FFD)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56444298_10157150388805522_503357823355191296_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=340b25cda64f6c688234fc808f6796b6&oe=5D393755)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 09, 2019, 04:44:45 PM
This makes it easier to tell how it will be.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56497143_10157151198575522_1189895091351715840_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=76f2c5573d34258f4c4a4494a3671c7d&oe=5D3AFDC5)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on April 10, 2019, 09:45:57 PM
I use AnyRail (v.6).  The trial version (free) has a limit of 50 pieces of track per layout, but there is a massive library of structures that you can place on it and a 3D view which helps visualize the actual track placement.  But in the 3D view, only the track and baseplate are visible.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 10, 2019, 11:17:22 PM
I have version 6 too. I paid the money to have full access to everything. The structure library isn't really that big. 20 structures and 15 trees and shrubs from Walthers. They have signals from 10 different companies. With Bachmann HO track, it only allows for HO structures which is a drawback.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on April 11, 2019, 12:45:33 AM
That's part of why a sprang for RR-Track. It has accessory libraries for just about all of the "O" Lionel Prewar, Postwar, and Modern buildings and accessories, as well as MTH RailKing buildings and accessories and 'Miscellaneous' buildings and accessories. 'Miscellaneous' includes the Atlas, Berkshire Valley, Buildings Unlimited, Downtown Deco, IHC, Korber, Laserkit, and Walthers buildings and accessories. There are also a bunch of signals and roundhouses from other manufacturerers. There's also an American Classics library that contains a number of 'O' buildings.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 11, 2019, 11:27:57 AM
I discovered other items than people have uploaded but it takes a long time just for them to load. The program kept "not responding" on me, but I have issues with my computer doing that sometimes on File Explorer, too. I'll try it again today. It said something about buying the structures people have uploaded but I wasn't able to get far enough to see about that and see if I can get O structures for HO track. I have to wait for about 3000 structures to load and it take a long time. I did email them and ask about On30 with O structures and HO track.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 11, 2019, 12:06:37 PM
I was able to get the user loaded structures up but it only brings up HO structures for my plan. I can't access the O structures.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 11, 2019, 12:55:20 PM
I figured out how to do it. I only had HO track selected when I first started. I went back and selected O track also and now I have access to both scales structures.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Morgun 30 on April 11, 2019, 09:19:53 PM
Yes, I know I'm the guy with the least knowledge and experience, but I see an S and you guys have taught us rookies to avoid S's. I'm I wrong?


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 11, 2019, 09:57:51 PM
Morgun - You are totally right. There is an "S" between the left turnout and the 1/2 18. It the one problem I couldn't overcome. I figure that I will be going real slow through there since it will be switching out cars. I hope it won't be a problem.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on April 12, 2019, 12:06:01 AM
Terry's just following the prototype...

(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b7/Railroad_%22S%22_Curve.jpg)

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Maletrain on April 12, 2019, 09:28:53 AM
Terry's just following the prototype...

(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b7/Railroad_%22S%22_Curve.jpg)

Len

It looks like even that prototype track has about a car length of relatively straight track between the opposing curves, maybe with easements, and almost certainly not as tight a radius.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 12, 2019, 02:48:48 PM
I tried out the "S" to see what will work. Freights cars together are fine. No problem at all. A passenger car hooked to a freight car is a no go with it in front or behind. Two passenger cars are a no go. Porter and a passenger car are ok.
I wouldn't really have a reason to send a passenger car through the S anyway. If I wanted to change which direction the loco was pulling a passenger car, I have a couple choices.
Starting out going from left to right on the bottom
I could uncouple it on the main between the wye turnouts, run the loco through the wye, then recouple on the other end of the pass car.
I could run the loco head on and pass car into the oval. Pull the pass car up far enough and uncouple. Run the loco around the oval to the turnout and back up to the main past the wye turnout. Go through the wye, then out to the main. Go forward past the oval turnout. Back into the oval turnout and pick up the pass car and back out to head the opposite direction on the main.
If it was a combine and I wanted the baggage part up front, I could change it's direction by using the Porter to take it through the wye.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on April 12, 2019, 09:39:54 PM
If you were able to expand the layout about a foot to the left, you'd probably have enough room to put about 6" of straight track in the middle of that S. It isn't much but something is better than nothing. It would be a shame if it didn't work, because that scissors  wye with industries on it is a really neat idea.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on April 12, 2019, 10:09:00 PM
Generally, S-curves only become a problem with the longer freight cars and modern passenger cars.  Shorter cars like those on most narrow-gauge layouts are too short to be affected by S-curves too much.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 12, 2019, 11:27:44 PM
Jeff - Expanding on the left is out of the question. I would have to tear up the risers, the tunnel, and the place
for the control boxes about the tunnel. Then attach more foam to the side to lengthen it. I already have to do that on the right side so I can run the track up the mountain. The left side of the layout is almost even with the doorway now. When I expand to the right, I'm going to have to move the layout to the left and it''s going to stuck out a few inches. I'm hoping to be able do that and still keep the peace in the house. If she bumps into it, things won't go so well.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 13, 2019, 05:33:08 PM
I think I found a solution. I played around with it for quite a while trying to find a solution to the "S". It will only take a wee bit of fudging to make this work. I'll use a #4 left turnout instead of a standard one. The fudging will be down between the 15" curve (44505) and the 1/3 18" curve (44530). Now, I have to buy a #4 Left turnout. It sucks because I already have a #4 right one and a #5 left one. The #5 wouldn't work at all.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/57097092_10157161249520522_4315976394816356352_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=ad47215934ff99c0dd14a96d8cee3958&oe=5D416C61)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 14, 2019, 01:27:52 AM
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/56877122_10157162193485522_4677123891041140736_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=b5d2ca7e8fcfecae8692182ba265911c&oe=5D387304)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on April 14, 2019, 04:17:55 PM
I fully understand about the space limitations. You should see some of the compromises i had to make with my own layout. I have an S curve but it's 24r so it's workable. I had to custom build a curved switch for my yard lead, and the end of my runaround track in the same yard is on a turntable. The radial tracks for that turntable also tunnel under the upper level industrial area. You do what you have to do with the space you have.

I'm glad you've found a workable solution. The use of 15r curves is less than ideal, but still preferrable to an 18r s curve. Hopefully when you test out this arrangement your coaches will be able to run through the wye without derailing. Please let us know how it turns out.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on April 16, 2019, 08:20:26 PM
Wondering about the branch line off the lower right side.  Is there a particular reason that it goes up towards the bridge instead of along the front area?


EDIT: Never mind.  Forgot about the limitations of AnyRail for a moment, and forgot that you don't have a lower left clean area.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 17, 2019, 04:03:41 PM
I changed my mind and I'm going to do it different. I got tired of the figure 8. With this, I can run 3 trains on three loops for when Christmas comes.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/57104271_10157171760545522_4804023565999407104_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=8cae41cbce0d05502a818c282441ffd6&oe=5D33C514)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/57504007_10157171787725522_3756380102183616512_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=a481b89a8f7158d83519fbdc913d77ec&oe=5D452093)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on April 17, 2019, 04:14:02 PM
Nice and clean with the wye, so you can do some 'branchline' action when the inner loop isn't being used for Christmas. I like it.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on April 18, 2019, 11:56:15 AM
I do like the way you incorporated the wye into the plan. My only question is, since most of the switches are at the rear of the layout do you have a way to access them if you need to? If so, it's a nice plan.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 18, 2019, 05:22:32 PM
Rollers. This pic is from when I was setting it up in 2017 for Christmas. When setting up Christmas, I have to do a lot of rolling it around to get to the back of the layout as well as the back wall. The frame itself is a bed frame to which I screwed 2 X 4's, then 1 X 4's. I then screwed plywood to those.  I added more bracing to the wing and put a roller under it. Originally, I had small rollers (bottom pic) under but it was hard to move on the carpet so I got bigger rollers. I put 2" foam on top of the plywood.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/57402321_10157174354435522_1050790699886182400_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=37c6c22a8aea2262f594bd0b6345961e&oe=5D482766)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/57409215_10157174423970522_2105959285706981376_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=a87bde275c06a1dd02a6e6e91fc58ca3&oe=5D76772C)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on April 20, 2019, 08:35:59 PM
I like that idea. Rollers on the layout make access to any part easy.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 25, 2019, 07:01:05 PM
I redid it again. I added a crossover on the bottom to replace the 2 #4's. It's $30 cheaper to buy a crossover than it is for 2 #4's. I had to extend it out to the edge. I can put a small piece of foam on the end so it''s not right on the edge. I also added a couple of turnouts on the upper part so I have more places to park stuff. Plus, I could fit in a crossing when I did that.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/59106082_10157191920370522_2921177497628311552_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=b6031019cb77175ec03ad96bb32be34c&oe=5D2DE9D2)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 25, 2019, 07:34:32 PM
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58374698_10157191963320522_8384216795371798528_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=2ba58876a1517ba22b9040afdf9e7187&oe=5D6F9D99)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: dutchbuilder on April 26, 2019, 04:49:48 AM
Aren't those double tracks not to close to each other?
And what about that turning triangle?
That's a short circuit anytime.
You will need a loop detector.

Ton


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 26, 2019, 12:16:17 PM
There are a couple places I might have to do some tweaking. That's what is good about the fitter pieces. I can add a little here and there. I might have to extend out a few inches but I can do that by just attaching some foam pieces on the end. I have  Bachmann's automatic reverse loop module to handle the wye.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 26, 2019, 04:44:09 PM
I added a few inches on the end and on the bottom. I should be ok with my doorway. I can just add some foam pieces to the end and bottom and a wedge on the bottom left. Adding the extra space gave me room for a switchback.
It occurs to me to wonder if anyone has used the #6 crossovers with On30 and if there is enough clearance. I guess I should find that out before I buy them.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58377833_10157193961135522_5732095754474881024_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=317ad59beb07bad6f68692c26e50e978&oe=5D760F4E)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58375886_10157193961665522_107500583287521280_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=8731de3d2d8f591149a11c6ad7573e63&oe=5D75C7AE)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: dutchbuilder on April 26, 2019, 05:12:33 PM
I have no experience with EZ track but i tried a PECO crossover and had shorts when a locomotive passed over it.
Where the track come together there is not enough isolated space.

Ton


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: RAM on April 26, 2019, 09:11:33 PM
Well before I say what I was about to say, let me ask where you were having a short.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on April 27, 2019, 01:31:43 AM
According to RR-Track the center-to-center spacing of the parallel tracks on the #6 crossover is about 2.4", which should be enough to prevent side swipes. They are designed for use on DCC layouts, so the shorting across gaps problem with DC layout crossovers shouldn't be a problem.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: plas man on April 27, 2019, 05:20:21 PM
only problem for continual running - once the train/loco is reversed on the Y , and back on the main line , there is no way to get back on the Y and turn the train around - except reversing through the switch/point  ?


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 27, 2019, 11:56:40 PM
It's starting to look like spaghetti in here. Had to add another 2" in length.This way I can go either direction - If I'm going clockwise, I can change direction and vice versa. I only have one place that I will have to fudge the connection. I tried for hours to get everything to line up right. The second reverse loop isn't colored because of the break in the connection where I have to fudge it. It's right in the middle where the track passes through the innermost loop. I already have a #4 and a #5 DCC turnout to use for the spurs so I don't have to buy those.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58978333_10157199803075522_7724940797199515648_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=9f985ac1f166540a9e96fb6e7c7e974b&oe=5D2E792A)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58950001_10157199803525522_8584378420442431488_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=1e11f6bd45d6a5ba1dac9c3a90a51ed5&oe=5D2D1472)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: dutchbuilder on April 29, 2019, 04:52:59 AM
Terry, you know the difference between an European style layout and an American style layout?
When there is space left on an European layout it will be filled with track.
When there is track on an American layout and you wonder what it is doing there, you remove it.


Ton


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on April 29, 2019, 12:51:14 PM
Funny but true.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 29, 2019, 01:11:58 PM
In the interest of globality, I added another spur to keep you all happy.  ;D I think I have everything covered now - wye, reverse loop, switchback, sort of a passing siding with the crossovers, and spurs.  Sorry. No room for a turntable. Mr. Porter will get quite a workout.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/59204013_10157200172985522_8651800417623080960_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=361eac883a287cd5f98c9f0ea98dca03&oe=5D674AA0)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/57435733_10157200173275522_509167659976228864_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=2f15004bf76e796a38a97ce722e19b0f&oe=5D73974C)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on April 29, 2019, 09:41:43 PM
Actually, Terry...
There may be just enough room for a turntable with a little fudge thrown in there. But it would come at the loss of functionality (storage space) of at least one spur.

Idea 1.
Give that switchback on the left side a reason to be there.  If the grade starts at 0" as the inner track exits the tunnel and takes the switchtrack left.  Get rid of the first reverse-switch.  As you reach the switchback, you'll want the height at at least 2", maybe 2 1/8".  Get rid of the next switchtrack, keeping the middle leg of the three originals.  As you get to 4" or 4 1/2", tack on the turntable.  You may do better with an Atlas turntable, since it's flat.  And now you have your turntable right there next to your control panel, so you can use the crank handle instead of wiring it to a motor.  Loss of two storage tracks.

Idea 2.
Make that newest short spur track on the lower right into a curve of minimum-radius track (porters and smaller engines can handle it) and curve it further back towards the crossings.  Then put on the turntable in the middle of the loop.  Loss of one storage/industrial track.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 29, 2019, 11:59:38 PM
I see what you are saying on number 1. That would be extremely steep to try to get it that high. I can already get the locos to go in either direction with the wye and the reverse loop. The control panel takes up that whole corner (13" X 13 1/2"). I have two 6 input power boxes on it that are about a foot square. The bottom of the foam where the panel is sits about 6" above the ground. I have two pieces of 2" foam for the base upon which the power boxes sit. The two ends of the track will be under the overhang of it. I could shorten those so they weren't under it. With a 4% grade, you only have 1 1/2" where the switchback turnout forks. At the very most, you could maybe get up to 3". The approach track to the turntable would be on a grade. I would want a loco length of level for approach track.
I had actually thought about doing #2.
The foam with the upper track is gone and it is all ground level except for the control panel.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58823338_10157202631625522_63603496376598528_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=b73ff4725f27774b46c444ed2dc120e3&oe=5D6D237B)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58876497_10157202594420522_267679623360282624_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=74b9c17f7530d88061effbf511023c26&oe=5D6DBF04)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 30, 2019, 02:01:28 PM
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/59508762_10157203994570522_390918581728051200_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=44cffb4c998d6bf7b2f8b58b947171fa&oe=5D6CB8A8)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on April 30, 2019, 09:45:59 PM
NOW it"s compleat.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: TrainMan2001 on April 30, 2019, 10:23:27 PM
Wow, that is awesome! What kind of sauce are you going to put on it? Marinara, Alfredo, Meat...

In all seriousness though, good job doing that even with the limitations of set track.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on April 30, 2019, 11:42:05 PM
I prefer Alfredo. ;D Those are HO water tanks, sand box, and freight platforms. I'll have to build those for On30. Anyrail's selection isn't the greatest. I was just trying to get some ideas here. The four buildings in a row are O scale. I wanted to have tracks where I can set my rolling stock rather than keeping them in my cabinet. I have two Moguls, a Heisler, and a Porter for locos. I don't know how many cars I have. I like it with the turntable now that I have it in there. I couldn't make it work on the other side.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 01, 2019, 06:15:52 PM
Still tinkering with it.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/59502515_10157207611805522_5205535581483827200_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=e3caf1af21ff0045cd09f480977ec6a6&oe=5D3653B4)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: WoundedBear on May 01, 2019, 09:31:31 PM
Gonna use two reversing modules? Where do you plan on gapping it?

Sid


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 01, 2019, 11:23:16 PM
I have two of the modules. I have to figure out the gaps yet. I don't know if the crossings will have to figure in on where I put the gaps. I'll have to do immerse myself in some reverse loop reading for a while. It's been a long time since I've "studied" reverse loop info. I understand the basic principle but this layout isn't the basic reverse loop.
On the wye., I'm guessing at the short piece behind the brown Acme building  and the curve right across from that should do. I know I'll have to keep that inside oval all isolated. It's going to be tricky for me.
On the reverse loop, I was thinking at the little short piece right after the turnout on the right side.
I'll also have to isolate the outer loop from the middle one.
I don't know if this whole set up this way will be possible to do with these two reversing issues.
I'm open to any suggestions from anyone. I haven't done any reverse loops on any of my previous layouts.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on May 02, 2019, 08:00:08 AM
DC or DCC? It makes a difference in how you approach wiring.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on May 02, 2019, 09:27:27 AM
Just think of the crossings as two electrically seperate pieces of straight track laying on top of each other. It makes figuring out the gaps for the reverse modules a lot easier.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Maletrain on May 02, 2019, 10:20:31 AM
Assuming DCC, it doesn't look that hard to gap for reversers.  The big loop can be gapped between the two diamonds at the ends (without regard to the diamond between them).  The wye can be gapped on the two legs of the turnout where they come together from the two directions on the inner circle to go out to the middle circle.  That way, you won't have to worry about trains being longer than the reversing sections.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 02, 2019, 12:10:43 PM
I will have to cut gaps in the crossovers right? Say I have a train running clockwise on the outer loop. If I have another one running clockwise on the middle loop, and send it through the reversing sections to reverse direction so it runs counter clockwise on the middle loop, that would cause the outer loop to reverse also if I don't cut gaps, right? I sometimes have a hard time keeping these things straight in my mind.
I don't know if that is right either, now that I think about it because it seems like then it would need another reverser to keep it from reversing if the crossings didn't have gaps.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on May 02, 2019, 06:03:28 PM
That's just one of the questions whose answer will depend on if you run DC or DCC.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Maletrain on May 02, 2019, 07:45:52 PM
Terry, it's (past) time to tell us if you plan to run this layout on DC or DCC!

The logic for "reversers" is different, because, with DC, you need to reverse the track polarity to change the direction that a locomotive is running.   So, the whole layout needs to be able to "reverse."  And, if you want to be able to control more than one locomotive at at time, you need to have then running in different blocks, all of which need to be able to reverse independently of each other.

With DCC, multiple locomotives can run in different directions at different speeds in the same block, because their direction and speed do not depend on track "polarity" (actually A/C current phase) and the voltage is always at max.   A computer ("decoder") in each locomotive rectifies the A/C and sends variable DC voltage to the motor in each locomotive, controlling it independently from all other locomotives. The only issue is that track that loops back on itself (so that it makes a loco run in the opposite direction on the same track it came in on) will make rails meet out-of-phase and cause a short circuit.  Gaps in the rails prevent a short circuit until a locomotive bridges the gaps.    So, you need to have just one isolated section per segment of direction-reversing trackage that can have its phase reversed while the locomotive is in it, so that it does not create a short either going in or coming out of that segment.  That can be done manually with a double-pole, double throw electrical switch in the track feed wires,or with an electronic auto-reverser module that senses the short as it occurs and changes polarity in about one millisecond, rather than opening a circuit breaker.

So,which are you planning to use?


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 02, 2019, 11:18:49 PM
I assumed everyone knew it was DCC. Sorry if it wasn't clear. On Aperil 25th, I spoke about using the crossovers which only come in DCC. On April 27th, I said I already have #4 and #5 DCC turnouts. My On30 Moguls, Heisler, and POrter are DCC. I have two Bachmann auto-reversers. I'm going to get a decoder installed in my HO Thomas for when the kiddies are here.
So the track polarities will remain constant then. Polarity is one way on the outer ovals and the other way on the wye section oval and reverse loop. I have one loco going clockwise on the outer oval, Another loco, going clockwise, heads into the reverse loop and comes out and heads counter clockwise in middle oval and it will be okay. Right? I just want to make sure I have it right in my mind so I don't have any "Uh oh" moments after i have the track all down.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Maletrain on May 03, 2019, 12:05:29 AM
OK, then my advice on where to put the reverser gaps is good. 

In a very early post, you had said something about hooking it up to DC.  And, you recently were talking about putting gaps between the middle and outer loops in a manner that seems to indicate DC, rather than DCC:

"I will have to cut gaps in the crossovers right? Say I have a train running clockwise on the outer loop. If I have another one running clockwise on the middle loop, and send it through the reversing sections to reverse direction so it runs counter clockwise on the middle loop, that would cause the outer loop to reverse also if I don't cut gaps, right?" 

Actually,  no, not right for DCC.  There is some confusion by using the word "loop" for what is basically a circle that the train can run around without going back on the same track in the opposite direction.  Your outer and middle circles do not need to be isolated from each other for DCC to have one train run clockwise and the other run counterclockwise without causing a short circuit at the crossovers, and those circles do not need to be reversed for any reason.  (But, they can be isolated on different circuit breakers, if you want to make sure that a short on one circle doesn't stop the trains on both circles.)  For the middle circle, the part you are calling the "reversing section" that will "reverse direction so it runs counter clockwise on the middle loop" is where you will need an isolated section with some mechanism for reversing the phase of the DCC wiring.  Note that reversing the phase of the DCC AC voltage will not cause the locomotive to change direction.  That is a DC concept, not a DCC concept. 
 
The inner circle is connected to the middle circle with a wye, so that a short would be created where the turnout connecting it to the middle circle splits to go either way on the inner circle.  To avoid that, gaps need to be placed after that turnout, before you get to the other 2 turnouts in the wye.  The easist way to handle the inner loop is to just put the whole thing on the electrical reverser, since in only connects to the other parts of the layout through that one turnout.

The 3 diamonds that you have do not figure into the logic for direction changes and the reversers that those require.  However, if you think about how to wire a diamond, you will see that it must create 2 short circuits unless the rails are gapped to isolate where the rails of opposite phase cross each other.  Most commercial sectional track simply makes those relatively small parts out of plastic, so they are none conducting.  If that causes a problem with small locomotives that have limited power pickup areas, then  you will need to have diamonds with metallic rails that have isolation gaps and electronic reversers to (nearly) instantly match the polarities of the two rails for the direction of travel though the diamond.  I mention that because you did say something about using small locomotive types that might have a problem with electrically dead diamonds.  But, I work in N scale and don't have any experience with your engines types in your scale, so you will need to get that advice from somebody else.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 03, 2019, 01:35:45 AM
Thank you. I appreciate all of your input. It helps a lot. For the past few years, I have just been doing Christmas roundy-rounds and have forgotten a lot. I know I should be be saying "ovals" instead of "loops" in some of my comments and how that could be confusing. I wasn't sure about the gaps between the two ovals because I had no experience in doing a set up like this with reversing stuff. In the past, I just opted for what was "easy".
When I still had the Christmas set up, I unhooked the DCC and hooked up the DC power to the figure 8 so I could run Thomas for the kids. I had both units set on the control area and it was just a matter of unplugging the wire from one unit and hooking it to the other.
Here is where I had planned on putting the gaps.
I added the "dead end" turnouts and the tunnels on the corners to make it look like it actually went somewhere and this was just a stop off on the journey East or West.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/59534458_10157211004890522_7487826119622656000_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=2bac86d4fca9ab8758e53258b35ae034&oe=5D5EF2B9)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Maletrain on May 03, 2019, 09:34:49 AM
Terry, those gaps look like they are in good places. 

You could move the gaps on the loop section of the middle oval so that they are on the other sides of the two end diamonds, if you want.  You just want the electrical reversing section to be longer than your longest train, which keeps things simple, even if using metal wheels and lighted cars. 

In the event that you have problems with getting locomotives to cross your diamonds and choose to use conducting diamonds with auto-reversers (on the appropriate legs/rails), it might help you figure out what is happening and how to fix any errors in wiring if one direction of the diamond is not sometimes reversed and other times not reversed.  That could be done by moving the gaps so that the outer two diamonds are not in the electrically reversing section.  But, you would still have to deal with that issue on the middle diamond.  I won't get into that here, because you may never have to deal with it or even think about it if you can get by with diamonds with rails that have short dead sections.  But, just so you know that it exists, there are "double auto-reversers" that would allow you to have a reversing diamond within a reversing section of a loop.  The potential problem with a reverser on a diamond that is inside a reversing track section is that a short would make both auto-reversers try to reverse at the same time, so they would just make a new short circuit, again and again.  The solution is to have two auto-reversers acting in sequence, instead of simultaneously.  Some auto reversers have adjustable time delays, so you can make one wait a bit to see if the other one clears the short before the second one tries to clear it.  And there is even a double reverser on a single board to do that.

So, your track plan can be made to work, and work well.  Good luck, and have fun.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 03, 2019, 10:46:13 AM
I'm trying to decide hat color to paint the base now. I'm trying to decide what area of the country (West of the Mississippi) this should be located. I have to make those decisions before I lay track. Parts of it are white and parts under where I had foam glued are dark green.
Around the turntable, I should build it up with thin foam sheets. I'll have to lay the track first to do that. I put the 1/4" sheets of foam down, then lay track on it and cut along the track lines. Pick up the track and remove the cut out pieces. Then, lay the track in the hole left by the cut outs. Then, I lay another layer of 1/4" foam on it and press it down so I have the rail impressions in the foam. I cut along the impressions about half the distance between them and where the edge of the E-Z road bed would be. It has to be done in pieces. Then I try to bevel the under edges of the so fit close to the road bed. Where it gets away from yard areas and out to the main, I taper it off so the full road bed is showing on the mains.  It looks like this when I'm done.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/59022827_10157211874300522_5287510130454167552_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=c3385d5ffbd543ae787b07987ad0aaca&oe=5D684AB7)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on May 04, 2019, 06:39:13 AM
I use various exterior and interior/exterior flat Behr paints as the primary base coat in areas I'm redoing on the layout I maintain at the shopping center. The nice thing is you can get 8oz 'Sample' jars that are a good size for layout work. The mouth is wide enough for a 2" or 3" foam brush.

The colors I mainly use are:

Gardener's Soil - MQ2-54
Native Soil - PPU7-24
Potting Soil - N360-7

Tilled Earth - HDC-SP14-6
Warm Earth - 290F-6
Pure Earth - PPU7-05
Antique Earth - PPU5-03

Grey River Rock - HDC-SM16-02

The code after the color is the pigment ID that gets mixed into the white base paint.

The 'Soil' colors are considerably darker than the 'Earth' colors. I use them as a 'primer' when I want to make an 'Earth' color a bit darker. The grey mainly gets used for sidewalks and concrete retaining walls.

I took an extra piece of the foam I use and painted strips of each color on it. That lets me see what each color looks like in the lighting the shopping center uses.

Home Depot and a few of the 'Home Decor' shops around here carry Behr paint. So it shouldn't be too hard to find.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 04, 2019, 10:16:07 AM
I have a couple of pieces of foam that I have color strips painted on from when I was doing the dinosaur land for my great granddaughter. When I would custom mix colors, it was easier to remember what colors I had.
I'll check out those colors you suggested.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 04, 2019, 01:01:10 PM
Len - I checked out those colors. I like the Gardener's Soil and Potting Soil. I use Lowe's down here. They don't have Behr so I tried to come up with close matches.  I think their Sherwin Williams Urbane bronze is close to Gardener's and Sherwin Williams  Algorithm is close to Potting. We don't have a Home Depot close and Lowe's give me a veteran's discount. There is a Menard's but I don't care for them.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 07, 2019, 07:58:36 PM
There are no Bachmann HO turntables to be had anywhere except for the Thomas manual one.
Does anyone at Bachmann have any idea when a new batch of turntables will ship?


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 08, 2019, 03:39:18 PM
After a few hours of searching, I finally found a turntable on French EBay. Then I had to use my translator to read the things the site was saying. It's missing the red wires but they look like standard Bachmann wires.
It cost me about $147 with shipping so that wasn't bad coming from France. (It's the globality Ton.  ;) )
There was another one in France that would have cost about $250. I found one in New Zealand that would have been about $300.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on May 12, 2019, 12:13:30 AM
:mouth foams:

Holy crap that's a lot of dough.
An Atlas turntable would've cost so much less than that...


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 12, 2019, 09:33:07 AM
I don't remember if the Atlas one is as high as E-Z Track or if I would have to shim it up. The slots in the Atlas one don't line up right with E-Z Track. I don't know if Atlas has a DCC one. I had an Atlas one some years ago and had to use separate short pieces to get the track to the TT. The Atlas one is just a flat circle.
Bachmann one.
(https://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l499/jeborne/DSCN0160.jpg)
Atlas one.
(https://www.trainsetsonly.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/Master/M150/lg150-305_350x339.jpg)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: charon on May 12, 2019, 10:18:26 AM
Bachmann turntable is definitely much better looking.
IMHO
Chuck


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on May 13, 2019, 09:23:34 PM
I have 9 stalls (in 3 sections) of the Con-Cor/Heljan roundhouse myself, same one you have.  And I also have their turntable.  Haven't truly installed anything because, being in a very small apartment with big dreams of a home layout, I didn't want to tear it up and down all the time.  Plus, I change everything around whenever I want.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 13, 2019, 11:12:49 PM
That roundhouse isn't mine. That is just a pic off the net of the turntable. I don't have my turntable yet.
It is being shipped now. I checked today and it had made it to Staffordshire, England from France.
I didn't have any info on the roundhouse. I did find myself wondering if my On30 Moguls would clear those doorways on that one. I still think a roundhouse would be too big on mine.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on May 14, 2019, 10:02:58 AM
You'll have to be careful when you buy a roundhouse for your turntable. The Atlas ones have track spacing of 15 degrees, to match their turntable. Bachmann's turntable has tracks spaced at 20 degrees which seems to be an odd spacing. You may have to scratchbuild or kitbash a roundhouse to fit.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 14, 2019, 11:50:34 AM
If I was going to get a roundhouse and if I was doing HO, I would get the Bachmann Tidmouth Sheds one. In the pic with the Bachmann turntable and the red roundhouse, it looks like the guy used "spacers" on the front of the building so he could get it lined up right.
(https://thumbs.worthpoint.com/zoom/images1/360/0315/17/bachmann-thomas-tidmouth-sheds-oo-ho_360_31ae275a2d132392ec578be672af60da.jpg)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 14, 2019, 02:50:40 PM
I'll probably try to scratch build a single stall shop. I came up with some figures.

For Loco Shop
My modified Mogul is:  3 1/2" high - 2 3/8" wide - 12 1/2" long (with couplers)
For Mogul to fit:
Loco shop needs to be at least: 4 1/2" 4.5 high - at least 3 3/4" 3.75 wide -  at least 13" long
               4.5" high   3.75" wide   13.00" long
Loco shop opening needs to be: 4" 4.00 high - 2 3/4" 2.75 wide.
               4.00" high   2.75" wide
(E-Z Track is: 5/16" .3125  high x 1 15/16" 1.9375 wide.) 
3 1/2" 3.5 Mogul high + 5/16".3125 E-Z Track high = 3 13/16" 3.8125 total height.
If doors then each needs to be: 1 3/8" 1.375 wide x (3 11/16" 3.6825 high (subtracted for track height) - 1/8" .125 clearance) = 3.5625" high
               2.75" wide  for both doors - 1/8"  .125 clearance = 2.625"
For reference:
Bachmann's On30 Trolley shed is: 5 1/2" 5.5 high at peak - 4 3/8" 4.375 at sides - 8 3/4" 8.75 long - 4" 4.00 wide
Opening is: 4 1/2" 4.5 high - 2 3/4" 2.75 wide


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on May 14, 2019, 08:52:14 PM
I know there has to be a single-stall O-Gauge engine shed out there somewhere.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 14, 2019, 11:08:50 PM
There might be, but On30 is smaller than the normal O gauge stuff. An O gauge shed would be set up to accommodate O gauge track and taller wider stuff like O27. I don't need it that big. Even Bachmann's trolley shed looks pretty big. I can make something that doesn't look as big. I found some "S" Scale roundhouse doors that will be about the right size for what I want. I'm imagineering about how to make them open and close when the loco comes out and goes in. When I was doing HO some years ago, I had a roundhouse started out of black foam core board. I never finished it back then but  I remember how I was doing it. I'll just have to go a little bigger this time.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 15, 2019, 04:22:30 PM
I just ordered S scale engine house doors from Rail Scale Models. They have both engine house and roundhouse doors. I liked the angled top of the engine house doors better than the rounded top of the roundhouse doors. They were actually too short so he is making them taller for me. Their O scale doors were just too big.

Rail Scale's S Scale doors
Engine Shed doors 14' X 15 '
wide real 168" = scale 2.63"      high real 180" = scale 2.81" - Making them 19' gives me 3.5625" high.

Roundhouse doors 14' x 19'
wide real 168" = scale 2.63"      high real 228" = scale 3.5625"

(https://www.rail-scale-models.com/prodimages/D4311L.jpg)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 17, 2019, 11:42:17 AM
He redid the engine house doors for me to make them taller.
I was about to throw away a cracker box this morning. As I looked at it, I thought that it looked close to the size I want for an engine house. I measured it and it is 4 1/16" wide x 4 1/4" tall. It's only 9 1/2" long but I could put 2 together. Since I would put a new peaked roof  (peak toward the back part like a roundhouse) on it, the 4 1/4" height should work in front. I can shore up the inside with strip wood. I'm just considering the possibilities here. I don't know if I will go that route.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/60308401_10157248696845522_2867468235807129600_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=e7923aa5900dd67ebe580d78054f3639&oe=5D9B380F)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 18, 2019, 10:13:56 AM
It looks like my turntable will arrive today according to the tracking info. I really have to have that before I can plan an engine shed. I'll have to lay some tracks around the TT to know how much room I'll have for the width of the engine shed.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 19, 2019, 09:55:19 AM
They screwed up on the tracking info. One line said it was my town and the newest line said it was still in transit. I anxiously awaited all day for it yesterday and, when it didn't come, I checked the tracking again.
When I saw Park Hills I thought "Oh boy!" I'll get it Saturday.
Saturday, May 18, 2019 12:03 PM    Greenwood , IN    In Transit with Destination Carrier
Friday, May 17, 2019 8:29 PM    Elizabeth , NJ    In Transit with Destination Carrier
Friday, May 17, 2019 8:11 PM    PARK HILLS , MO    In Transit with Destination Carrier
Friday, May 17, 2019 7:33 PM    N/A    In Transit with Destination Carrier
Friday, May 17, 2019 9:42 AM    Elizabeth , NJ    In Transit with Destination Carrier


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: RAM on May 19, 2019, 06:19:26 PM
Well before zip code you wondered how your letter got lost.  Now with zip code you wonder how they get lost so fast.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: charon on May 20, 2019, 01:37:39 AM
I sent a package from Tampa to Milwaukee suburb. Took 7 days to get to Milwaukee main post office. 2 days later they sent it to Pittsburg. They finally sent it back to Milwaukee. Total delivery time 17 days.



Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 20, 2019, 10:49:26 AM
I redid the stuff around the turntable. The Mogul is 12 1/2" long coupler to coupler so I made the engine house 13 1/2". I had to move it to the top so it would fit plus the opening now faces the front for a better view. I moved it back from the apron to have room for the doors.
By eliminating the one track, I can fit the water tower in with the ash pit, coal, wood, and sand. That way all the replenishing can done without moving the loco to different tracks. I guess I could have the wood pile on the same side as the sand. The supply car tracks can hold cars with more coal, sand, and wood.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/60520142_10157257209455522_2019124525974683648_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=a107431b7df0921561a02530dd80957c&oe=5D590672)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 24, 2019, 04:00:16 PM
I finally got the turntable in the mail today. I was beginning to wonder if it got lost.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 25, 2019, 03:51:47 PM
Assuming that the turntable works, it looks like I got a better deal that I thought. I figured I was going to have to buy a decoder. There was a paper in the box for a Bachmann 33-553 decoder. I opened up the TT cover and the decoder is in there.  :)
I don't have any wiring or track hooked up yet so I haven't checked to see if it works. With all this DCC stuff now like locos, turnouts, and turntable, it looks like I'll have to retire my E-Z Command and break out the big guns.
I have the MRC Prodigy Elite Wireless DCC Walkaround 10 Amp unit with the handheld wireless controller. I bought it a couple years ago and haven't used it yet.
Now, I'll have to start using some more of these brain cells to figure this all out.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 26, 2019, 05:13:24 PM
I tried out the turntable today and it works. It's much noisier than I would have liked. It sounded like the motor was running away so I took the top off and bottom off the check the gears and they are ok. When I hooked it back up to the power track, I forgot to use the fourth TT track and didn't have any power. I finally figured it out and it is working, just noisy.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on May 26, 2019, 10:55:15 PM
Try to grease (not oil) the gearing and give the electric motor a couple of spritzes of compressed air to clean any accumulated dust/debris.  It may just need to be run a bit to 'wear it in'.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 27, 2019, 10:19:26 AM
The gears had already been greased. It's mostly the high pitched sound of the motor whirring. I've never had a TT before so I didn't know what to expect. It's been used already. It wasn't new because someone had already installed a decoder. I didn't have the shed structure over it either so that might muffle the sound some.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 27, 2019, 01:47:56 PM
I guess patience if the key here. A slower moving TT is a much quieter TT.  If I keep the throttle at about 1/8 power, the noise isn't that loud, but it turns so slow. I realize in real life they do turn slow so that's more prototypical anyway. When I go to program it with the MRC, I guess I can adjust the max speed to keep it slow.
There is some room in the shed to add some foam insulation around the control box. I had a 1" thick piece on top of the box when I was using it before and it seemed to help a little. I'll have to use some thinner foam around the sides inside the shed.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on May 27, 2019, 08:17:54 PM
Keep in mind the real ones sound like coffee grinders.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on May 27, 2019, 09:30:35 PM
Of course, you could always slice a guy in half around the belly and glue him onto the turntable after putting a black piece of cardboard or something under him.  Keep it slow like he is pushing it.  The turntable at the B&O roundhouse in B'more is hand-powered.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 27, 2019, 10:23:13 PM
My mind has been hard at work contemplating the possibilities of putting someone pushing it. It would be better if just the turntable itself tuned and not the whole inside pit. I don't believe that is doable without some major work.. More than I would want to attempt. I pondered that too but these turntables are expensive if I would screw it up. I already thought about cutting off the piece where the little house thing goes on the revolving part.
I'm not crazy about the color and I want to paint it. All those short approach tracks are screwed on with little bitty screws (32 of them). I woud have to unscrew those and remove them.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 28, 2019, 02:36:48 PM
I got the turntable apart. It might not be so hard to alter after all.
I am thinking about removing the part of the ring that the deck is attached to so that I just have the deck that turns. I thought the whole base turned but it doesn't, just the ring and deck.
The only thing I wonder about is the spring loaded detent thing. There are notches around the ring that the plunger engages when the TT stops at each track. I removed the plunger and tried the TT and it still stops at the right places.
Any thoughts from anyone?
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/61704387_10157279515945522_8379851996202532864_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_oc=AQnfPEL7O_RnRkJNBCNGhZT7FP--ZFpfmWhmK1AlP__xF7T7snEb9OlTkUGmwruiwEf5ySXsNdhJa1feyNY5O3gG&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=d03097efcfa54cc7ab730ee49ffb89d3&oe=5D952C6E)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/61617106_10157279516310522_3968286014677450752_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_oc=AQnMaFrGs5ltdWEX9ToGxKJvJsK0lXqct4zGwCHjleHU0nUy32suGhDhx9RTn1HnVobVT5OmBgDxwaTX4z8oevPk&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=0130cf71f207f01229c1d5bcbc416049&oe=5D5AD288)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/61296694_10157279572140522_7219216726037102592_n.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_oc=AQmsi23TXHlXxqCwfHc1EPPJSpCB_AEhTIedITE9dL78f0ooLO_lSg9hJWWLt4NPv58DDkD1C8fcV1e8CJilkybK&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=fa316ef495c7c0388d52d8165a534c78&oe=5D94B7A4)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 28, 2019, 04:24:24 PM
I had high hopes but I can't do it. I was hoping it was the center that was doing the rotating but it's not. There is a big gear that sticks out into the pit with a raised circle on top with a gap in the circle. That is what engages the indentations under the ring and causes the TT to move.
If I had two TT's, I could flip one upside down underneath the other and let the underneath one do the moving. I could cut the ring off the upper track deck and attach that deck to the lower one in the middle. I would have to cut a hole in the layout so they would fit. All I would need for the upper one would be the base and the track deck. There wouldn't be any electronics on the upper one. The bottom one would take care of all the alignment.
It's not something I'm going to do but it could be done unless I found someone with a TT that didn't work anymore where I could scavenge the deck and base.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: jward on May 29, 2019, 12:42:21 PM
i am looking forward to following your progress.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 29, 2019, 03:35:22 PM
After I thought about it, I would still need power to the top deck. The track in the #4 slot is wired and connected to the turntable motor. In order for the loco to move on the deck, there has to be power from another track connected to another short track around the apron.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Trainman203 on May 30, 2019, 08:04:30 AM
All of this why I want a wye on my layout.  Rural shortlines usually had them instead of turntables at the end of the line unless there wasn’t enough level ground.  Both railroads back home had wyes, they are gone now.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on May 31, 2019, 06:09:10 PM
The mailwoman just brought the track I ordered. I now have all the various straights and curves I need. All that's left to buy now are the crossovers and some turnouts. Those have to wait until next month.
I have 4 left ones and need 2 more. I have 2 right ones and need 6 more. For now, I can get by with buying 1 more left and 3 more right because they are critical to the main geometry of the layout.
Two of the rights are on the lower spur and they can wait as well as the right for the caboose track since it's the straight leg that's connected in the oval. I can substitute a 9" straight temporarily so the oval will be complete. The one left on the upper spur has the straight leg connected with middle oval so I can sub a 9" there.
I had to rearrange the turntable tracks since the 4th track to the left of the shed has to be powered in order to make the TT go around.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/61624292_10157287949815522_8639481957496913920_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_oc=AQkJM01UtzlMqtFtdbmhTGLL7Q5tk0VpI9oa_gVC9Bk3ZLCGpobUqIX6STRoDU57vNS61o41P-O3BlQGkl5I2pzb&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=e0ba3c09a22ce76d7606fec6a6464026&oe=5D60051A)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 18, 2019, 12:43:52 PM
I changed it again. I put a  siding and passenger platform by the town part. This was way I can fit the Mogul and one passenger car on the siding. I had to give up some of the spur trackage. Porter and one freight will fit on the switchback tail.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/64467841_10157336203945522_4785538829916307456_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_oc=AQkM_PRpDPLYebNyQlq9VGYP7j-qPAMyWhLq-uiR8vK6a2yUj5i3cp1bmZ0d2PUjXw0pbdIFQkFp7vOtCcU7u30b&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=57943aae664e4e3d4bf7be7ad0eed2ab&oe=5D8AB9BC)

This is how I had it before the siding.

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/64862783_10157336236535522_2958828284751642624_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_oc=AQnYK1RJfTwGeTkgfcDB4cByMINsMcYqssVBM_QouXptVzs6XvFXkI3ATEN91V87gyX-9_LEAQlVoOLdFMi4GLUK&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=9d8fd429e56cd3aef8b60f596fe32d7a&oe=5D80FB0E)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 18, 2019, 07:09:24 PM
I worked in it some more and regained some spur trackage.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65249096_10157337003200522_8762570029368606720_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_oc=AQk2XJCHttr-yaWTXlFjSJuT5bK1AIujDdatkR_VM48OCcNmWb63UXgwkHj1f_H7_j-GhAC6jmVnHrCoy8um7_Xc&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=237a88089aee6095824ee8711afe5b81&oe=5D953890)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 19, 2019, 07:17:53 PM
This is the last change. I need to go with this one and quit tinkering with it. Now, I have to refigure all my track pieces again. The track is kind of close by the switchback. There is 1/2" between the roadbeds along the length of that right turnout. The E-Z track is 1 15/16" wide. The cars are 2" wide = 1/32" track overhang on each side. My widest loco is my custom Mogul at 2 3/8" because of the wide cab. That is 13/32" overhang on each side. There is still 1/16" space for the Mogul to pass a car or any of my other locos that is on the switchback. The stock mogul is 2"wide, the Heisler is 1 7/8", and the Porter is 1 5/8" so there won't be any issues there.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/64594509_10157342833485522_988657482484154368_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_oc=AQlVTJYtXpzxSyQfRcltPpdgQLMWgrsY6ibnx5dV_Mwn9VicoDSSYF1Zn_hbpkUFqf6QpNGGgl1n-sU16tPqRFiO&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=57b7a0e16a4e895a25c3d1604952c026&oe=5D890072)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on June 19, 2019, 08:40:13 PM
Looking good.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 20, 2019, 07:41:20 PM
I got my Bachmann bridge today. It looks like I 'll have to buy a second one and butt them together. The guy that gave me dimensions gave me bum scoop. I asked him the length of the walls. He gave me the whole length. The walls are only 7 7/16" long and I need 13" for the Mogul. The height and width will work. Inside doorway is 2 7/16" wide. Mogul is 2 3/8" wide. Inside doorway height is 2 7/16" and Mogul is 3 1/2". I can put the bridge on a 1 1/8" foundation for clearance and not use the base. Maybe use strip wood.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/64992525_10157343217060522_8002281206462808064_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_oc=AQnROODNcJwgvfxvu5atzbVl8H7iAxFQarvGB_0G6M9Tk2WqfYbB9dWVXARkDh9Wz7H5dUhncUd0z9G9qf7_Bdq0&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=8f0cca2f6f4dd985c94a3ea45636e4b4&oe=5D831BE1)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/64622506_10157343217290522_6631107837743333376_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_oc=AQkpPppbaNk_2FC3JIPjtZUSXUH3xWxaCeRaMkNFLKiEWYgzfEFQIhxNQLWOx6JIDiS6HNI99aGywjoiTZalPfoO&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=8e16e2166f2a9741b3998c78f45cb676&oe=5D7CBEF6)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/64915712_10157343217465522_5024427655403929600_n.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_oc=AQltzvZmmCk1EjmHQVFEOgh4jwGJ5gfHtALYHeTShFncwO3LxeIuyvfbjUg1Qnccw_YbV3bAu5SnG8nPRqOdaVFY&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=71fd0ee8da3d87a9e3d8c304918a3dc0&oe=5D7ADFF5)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 26, 2019, 12:40:40 AM
I filled in the slots in the turntable that I won't be using. I used Air-Dry Clay. I was undecided as to what to use. I thought maybe Play Doh or Plastic Wood but then I saw this and decided to try it. I hope it doesn't shrink much. The clay is sandable.
I taped pieces of styrene around the inside and outside. I was going to put plastic wrap in the slot first but I decided against it. I put a glob in the slot and smoothed it with a short popsicle stick. Once it's dry, I paint the TT.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65208956_10157359232830522_3045497258746314752_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_eui2=AeER873_NnEpZfQGSRkP6NldKVdjkXpxZOzDSyaxp_pFcGunP3R4V0nLXlFrjGSSWbRSYGQo2SD_zAX7gIes1IPrLsOoHKaZ68A-5OL1myzlZg&_nc_oc=AQk30XxZK3T1CDLFXTZmxhfBZeFU-DpIhnWAONBnKhDwKKguYvGkByaSjNxV0VtUUmWvTwFs85GOHQK7YSkVg0bn&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=39f77d40174136098c13afaa0050c1e0&oe=5DC01781)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/64834538_10157359234985522_7371134409400909824_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_eui2=AeEA3h8D9Q-ufIIDcCPikmxcIgmSutsn0ac27qZ6BqLiMDgBlXnbpd-CZpiLBNBxlm6_0oX-Pm9efQXRTB0fplN3IoyB6M84-Cue_sALuE21ag&_nc_oc=AQm1B3KxanRj-aG89f8AxQ_bJMG2nxBg7lyUFO8v9aH6pAsf2VdM3foPQB742mXCD3Tm71MpX60TsizmDaPJrSC4&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=03798c94c46a261222d698998f28cc4f&oe=5D8A76B8)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Joe323 on June 26, 2019, 07:46:16 AM
Air Dry clay works well.  I used it to make grade crossings and cement floors.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 26, 2019, 11:03:29 AM
I had thought about using spackle or Sculptamold but figured that might be too brittle and crack because these pieces are so thin.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 26, 2019, 07:40:12 PM
A mock-up of the engine house. I have it resting on foam pieces here. I'll use wood for the base so there will be more room inside. I figure I'll put a couple of loco stacks in the roof for ventilation.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65171264_10157361521790522_1154694325372715008_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_eui2=AeHTOAS6n3SHhGgqP72yZIx5dbZEqzOhw9Uy5mYMB2CgEs28LjryygfCG7uyjVzH9gnf60b32el7dJIZhjpYAQZltGFOdnnS56KZKfhq3RNzjA&_nc_oc=AQkOS5rQqva3FBr6aHNT8PS-q4nBcCBtcCyGzy7KQmpGlpBw-4v3IrchoXYi9F6hKx8F5fEYNEjYgjuA95R-Lyzm&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=f72c0514ffd599f67b26c495bf5e637d&oe=5DB80CC4)
The engineer will be replaced by one who can keep his hand inside the cab.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65159267_10157361525340522_3252940833363591168_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_eui2=AeGHisVoqynbELHlSGela_L14AjFDaOEWIfFjD9husViYMr5Zpa_OAlwxwy18K6alwE1LZC1XskU9KrdhCyiKFhMKgVBXkPISthqP-A9nvtbdg&_nc_oc=AQlN7OVSxZeQ2XCSJP28FAuyMiUnKFZoZvD50JCmbU5OD2v09R_Mfde7raKxhjO13ICijo0H764gdr_JtdP7wSlF&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=471c064f70ba8a4a5fb8164c9d940e1d&oe=5DBD9516)
It will be longer when I get the second one. One of the walls is bent. I'm hoping the second one has straight walls. I'll use the bent wall as one of them that I cut off.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65500875_10157361526250522_5718276121674383360_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_eui2=AeEKZvscrbqTLhKXJ0cNzYXnhXFCjf4e4bnCm87JVlVei0Veki2oRUAofyle5nXqGqPxP7zWmPVq_SAkk4xU-qadS4QwBTH5Ce7pSfMpEqVpsw&_nc_oc=AQleQ28BH7GRTDXBd_kSuqxZiObzVd_927Y5WY56uKjzPsLwxJyXc9qPh0de3ekeUO_yZlERnykMoiSRI4-B3V--&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=6265ecd043a491855b100919b6fd7add&oe=5DC74A11)
I'll have to trim the front plastic piece for the doors to fit but I'll probably just glue them in the open position.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65222285_10157361527245522_2539602149101273088_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_eui2=AeGnb_TWAYAEek-xOKEOIuFZgQQkX6c--ZYX-UNv9srqojI4r5ju7fnSlk-oPrA_c4FgGZ2-45GUpPRhJ03lH-Mg65BL_Ga2QH_aMW4w6Gxtfw&_nc_oc=AQmWi1kWVZupDSzrC3j288uACbolBf42D_yR3n2h9gnX-hIwVKMiS9vDDpJqGwzlqb764KiRsFO4GX4zBCR_XeQz&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=f851d1f687debc7005d6bf426473b5a4&oe=5D7F4710)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 27, 2019, 01:07:38 PM
In figuring how high for the base, I thought 4 pieces of Woodland Scenics 1/4" sheet should be 1". When I measured, it's not. It's 1 1/4". Then, I measured a single piece of the WS sheet and it's 5/16" thick, not 1/4" like it says. Be warned if you want precise measurements when using this stuff. It actually kind of works out for laying it between tracks because E-Z Track roadbed is 5/16" high also. Hmmm.....
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65268773_10157363367150522_3409418659599220736_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_oc=AQl6hOzXZryfCnXoqgvJpciVAYwvoIYABhUdssTpSyLQSDCGsZFNrtDcWDZ2n4KMTQMzI5tKqm9FAphxCAkbwF7t&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=679beb0fa8b4339e9aa50618a70ec4c5&oe=5DC12939)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 29, 2019, 06:39:50 PM
I just cut the walls on the second bridge to shorten it. Now I can start building the base.(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65393911_10157369544825522_992140477622910976_o.jpg?_nc_cat=102&_nc_oc=AQkHP19VrP87by6kHL00p5lsSw4wgZrhz6uMSIhzDHVpC-L7QFSuyUk3wy76gpuFpl8PTtANieSlp8d2MdykjxkV&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=f24509dbcf592edc5cf63e1df59c8bde&oe=5DB3F3AC)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on June 29, 2019, 07:35:54 PM
While I was in Hobby Lobby buying balsa wood today, I happen to see this. It makes a 4" x 6" cabin. In 1/48 scale, that's 16' x 20'. All I have to do is add some windows and doors. For $4.99, it's a cheap alternative to some of the buildings out there for model railroads. I could buy a few of these and put them together and maybe build a Ponderosa. Or maybe not. ;D
I'll have to get another kit anyway. The cabin walls are only 5 logs high and the logs are 1/4" diameter. That means the wall are only 5'. With a second kit, I can make the walls 7 or 8 logs high and the door can be 6 logs (or 6' high).
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65394816_10157369690655522_9202924217249562624_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_oc=AQl_d4g72gIde9z3ILm42aL9UQtFheSpek3iY3lF1TJiahsFk93gDpvpHLjlIwsDRvBgpH8sOoFnt2Jf5DqhaaBr&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=20bde4db4724fb0b6903d5ea1b47c854&oe=5DB3CBD3)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on July 02, 2019, 08:56:28 PM
It's basically lincoln logs


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 02, 2019, 10:28:11 PM
I know but they are smaller than the Lincoln logs I remember.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 05, 2019, 10:47:08 PM
I have the cutting all done for the bridge pieces. I shortened the second set of walls a little more. I had to trim down the sides and notch the top of one of the doorways so it would fit inside. I will need it to support the second roof piece. I used the other doorway, too, for support.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/66015309_10157387740420522_5522948529540038656_o.jpg?_nc_cat=111&_nc_oc=AQlhYZvnwIbsJP7q0CwLa3HhzTw2rdSP4hqRcD64rfSNqexkFq3zotdaPBhHp9Hek64JZrrxxZfgDhUgCLnp85j3&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=346f33a0916152f3d80503d5d9012887&oe=5DB52893)
Here it is taped together. I'm hoping the roof seam won't be so noticeable once I paint it.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65924823_10157387744710522_8016608036246257664_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_oc=AQmvtgmhu8VuSPLAxN6N3pZVFbxouzG0MwS2ug36_52qDApmjjO28kGWhImmm0Nfe-kR1pAVYmoae1R_upUcigyi&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=4ef5fce3a6bc59fce193812ae704c0a2&oe=5DBC2FDF)
Here is an angle view. I think I'll turn the short roof piece around. I'm pleased with the way it is looking. I had my doubts before I started.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/65021766_10157387745750522_4630958996973420544_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_oc=AQmu8g2E_uumvrQVOlMP8XdOlK7r04b7nccaiWV_wcSGT8pVpmWR72wRjbOL_zRPaecXmUIgZaM-n1klBn58OAzn&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=faa7d883d2393fb98ecca8efea995355&oe=5D7ECD3D)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on July 06, 2019, 09:56:21 AM
You could always put a guy with a hammer and some shingles on the roof to explain any slight discrepancies at the joint.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 06, 2019, 10:19:45 AM
It seems like I saw somewhere that someone makes shingle sheets. I'll have to look around. That would solve the problem. If I find them in O scale size, that would be even better.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Flare on July 06, 2019, 12:39:43 PM
It seems like I saw somewhere that someone makes shingle sheets. I'll have to look around. That would solve the problem. If I find them in O scale size, that would be even better.

Chooch Enterprises makes some, I used a pair of large shingle sheets for my new engine shed last month.

https://www.choochenterprises.com/Oroofing.html

They're made of linoleum that likes to curl, so the included adhesive sheet may not be enough to keep it flat.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on July 06, 2019, 01:39:11 PM
Or use a bit of putty or clay to smooth out the joint after the glue sets, before painting.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 06, 2019, 02:47:50 PM
Thanks. I checked out Chooch. They look a little too uniform for this building. I see a few other places where they come in strips and don't look so uniform. I might go that route. I could do the clay, too. I have a tub of clay now from filling the turntable slots.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 06, 2019, 07:33:18 PM
I started on the base. 2 pieces of 1/8" bass wood glued together gave me the right height to butt the E-Z Track up to it. Then 1/2" wide by 3/16" high balsa around the perimeter to start. Next come the walls of the foundation.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/66013634_10157390435460522_7232668550723272704_o.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_oc=AQmkENjEVJKrPsafCWR-39UNcUVsbibzBCq721zIGTraeDE9Co91t-w6khu741-oqZAgGC4FVR4ffig9nIiTe9pS&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=35af1d5a48328ba82f5b0a3420b38237&oe=5DBE442A)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/66332998_10157390435280522_1153735087376826368_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_oc=AQlwgrUXYZjBVBiD6nlw7koQ84nV5jL0z50bR47JIPmutnDF8QPwcwu0sB-b7a4MZbPRxYEZamrKuu745cjKS-EG&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=ceea1df0bb91a80ccdf9358326660ff2&oe=5DB60E9B)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: RAM on July 07, 2019, 08:44:11 PM
An old way of making shake shingles was to cut strips from a brown paper bag. I don't know the size of shakes, but let say 2 feet long and eight inches wide, so you would cut strips 2 scale feet and then cut slits half way up about ever 8 scale inches.  then glue one strip down and move up and glue another strip, and keep doing this until the roof is covered.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 07, 2019, 11:37:20 PM
I'm still undecided what I will do on the roof. I might just putty the crack and paint it.
I'm waiting on some Atlas track pieces that I ordered. There aren't any train stores down here. Hobby Lobby has a few pieces of black E-Z Track and a few Bachmann sets. That's the extent of train stuff down here. It's about a 70 mile ride to the big city and hobby/train shops.
I need about 12 1/2" of straight for the shed. I found a place that sells single pieces so I don't have to buy a whole pack. I tried prying off the track from some old E-Z Track and that was a disaster. The piece on the shed base now is short because I had to cut the ends off from screwing it up when I pried it off the E-Z base.
I also ordered some curves so I can build four bridges on the upper right of the layout. Two will be 15" radius pieces and two will be 18" radius. Kind of like the Campbell bridge only smaller.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/MaMAAOSw6RVcvrnZ/s-l640.jpg)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on July 08, 2019, 02:15:01 AM
Plastruct has a 2 pack of unpainted 7" x 12" O scale shake shingle packs.
https://plastruct.com/shop/plain-and-patterned-sheet/91655-ps-130/

They're available on line from a number of sources.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 08, 2019, 10:50:24 AM
I had never heard of the paper bag idea. That's interesting. I saw Plastruct's stuff. That's a possibility.
Wild West Models has a variety of colors.
https://www.wildwestmodels.com/products/shake-shingles.html (https://www.wildwestmodels.com/products/shake-shingles.html)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 08, 2019, 08:06:15 PM
I'm also thinking about corrogated roofing. I like the shingles but would they use wood shingles on an engine shed with a loco stack spitting hot embers?
https://www.wildwestmodels.com/products/corrugated-roofing.html (https://www.wildwestmodels.com/products/corrugated-roofing.html)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on July 08, 2019, 08:45:33 PM
Just remember that, even vented and sealed like leftovers, there is still air in that tub of clay, and it will harden if you don't use it...

Unless you vacuum-pack it...

Yeah, they would use wood shingles (cedar, if any).  That's what the smokestacks are on the door and back ends of the roof.  Under those smokestacks is something that looks like a range hood in a restaurant's kitchen (exhaust vent).  Besides, your walls are made of 'wood', aren't they?


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 08, 2019, 11:13:17 PM
The walls are wood but I wondered about shooting hot embers up to wood roof.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 09, 2019, 04:32:04 PM
What type of adhesive would I use to glue the clay pieces to the turntable? They are all loose. I didn't think about the clay not sticking to the plastic.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on July 11, 2019, 08:52:48 PM
Standard Super Glue (plastic adhesive [Krazy glue]) ought to work.  If that fails, there's always double-sided tape. Tape bonus: If you ever decide to change your mind on exact placement of the turntable, or replacement with another, you can pull the clay chunks off.

Generally, the 'range hoods' would be large enough to completely cover any position the smokestack may end up in.  Also, notice the wood roof.
(https://ohiosamishcountry.com/images/articles/heritage-brings-a-unique-experience-at-sugarcreek-the-little-switzerland-of-ohio/age-of-stream-2.JPG)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 11, 2019, 11:13:25 PM
Hmm.... Perhaps an inverted Big Hauler stack under the roof. :)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on July 14, 2019, 03:41:32 PM
Get a few from a train show, if you can.  Try your hand at slowly heating and flattening them.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 14, 2019, 03:46:51 PM
It wouldn't matter anyway because it wouldn't be visible. The shed will be toward the back of the layout. The platform across from the shed on the turntable will be blocking the view to see up inside the roof. A person would have to lay on his belly to try to see back there under the roof of the shed and it's doubtful it could even be seen like that. I'll probably just put a couple capped stack on the outside of the roof like I see on other roundhouses.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 17, 2019, 02:01:05 PM
As I slowly make progress on my engine shed, I'm contemplating putting lights in it. I thought about a stationary decoder so I could control the lights with DCC. With a decoder, I could get the power from the track. I just saw Woodland Scenics' Just Plug Lighting System https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/JustPlugLightingSystem (https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/JustPlugLightingSystem) and I'm wondering if that might be a better way to go. That would mean running more wires. Any thoughts?
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/66789764_10157419492010522_6583619114495901696_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&_nc_oc=AQng0w0tTJI9tP1xab9W1hPHFuMs8Ypl_Q2u63P4UeLSgbGTYtNYCPElQJc8YKcnkU0ks1CSFhIsYCwbHpEsRjUx&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=558e14e0c548db85685b6b0abc769fe5&oe=5DB14C81)
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67060960_10157419492165522_4386809493678194688_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_oc=AQliDNT48RHAdqzV9USMzB57fY1ra9pAnHcfO6n4lLB1uajMxGRT5HcKPFef2jQ0GkB7wiHvCHr7HieTrtDDf71-&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=9a8cedb2f22a44b16af1a3ed6040e2d8&oe=5DB7FC2B)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on July 17, 2019, 03:21:04 PM
The large gaps at the top of the walls were to let in daylight, so kerosense/coal oil lanterns wouldn't be needed. Unless you're going to add a lot of interior detail, it might not be worth the bother.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 17, 2019, 05:08:26 PM
I don't plan on adding much on the inside. I thought it might look cool at night with the upper part open like the light would also spill out onto the layout. Remember, it was just a short bridge to begin with.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 17, 2019, 06:00:05 PM
Finally decided on a color for my engine shed. One of the hardest things for me is trying to figure out what to paint stuff. Paint color can make or break a project. This is a spare piece that I used as a test piece. I started with Rustoleum dark brown and let that dry. Then, I brushed on brown Higgins Drawing Ink and let that dry. I did that to get in the cracks between the "boards" and the ridges in the "boards". After that, I sprayed it with Krylon flat clear spray. I think it looks a lot better than the original color.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/66762647_10157419983700522_8991813483590844416_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_oc=AQm5FwKV68xkke9PXEZtcxy1tvKp3QndERF8POv2zMhWT5qc5AoHVF1ulsKIUbekTh1HJKYAhyOHF-sWsTsHvneZ&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=9535edf367f8af9ca7799aea1915b1cb&oe=5DBCA674)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on July 17, 2019, 06:27:34 PM
Now that looks like old wood.

If you do put lights in, something with a yellowish hue should work to simulate lanterns, or early type incandescent bulbs.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: WoundedBear on July 17, 2019, 06:42:05 PM
Nice job staining the walls Terry. It certainly does look better than the bare plastic color. Well done.

Sid


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 17, 2019, 07:27:04 PM
Thanks guys.
Len - Yes. I would do something yellowish. Definitely not a bright white.
Sid - it was a gamble because I wasn't sure what the result would be.
I'm very happy with the way it turned out. I like the way the ink brings out the grain.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 19, 2019, 02:53:45 PM
I had to carve up one of entrance walls so the doors would fit.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67174128_10157424715745522_9216415130433093632_o.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_oc=AQkHosOMSY-LUAMBKpYFtKjUXkp6injH_f04Dn5uoLgFX4-VhqgF6CcsEsl_FdwHmj-tRAlDyd7b_qmSBTzaYwO0&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=ac5621d66367476179c32d8ac70e4304&oe=5DBCF2F9)
It was hard cutting it straight because of all the knobs sticking up. I wanted to keep as much of the knobs as I could because it's easier to hold the shed together.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67262626_10157424715880522_8843988298469736448_o.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_oc=AQmlzsMtJOcGiywCq8BmgYaylmBZkD_-4V-3h9QTR3pj_HkkdrMaaYsYdT4gAnXY62p6QKwT4bi5TVoMavFOtT-0&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=c2dd66ca037e6a0816b21bdcde4c3573&oe=5DE628A3)
The doors will be glued in the open position so any discrepancies won't be that obvious.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67164598_10157424716160522_3226222352916283392_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_oc=AQnBzDrvtqmxLEiq3MoMT6nzSJshfi1eZZBPLPjrUgfrzjiSke40YeIkmhLTsmN3_yvsdEErdtWynGi1fPbTVCDu&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=8f199c447b13469db1f2301813fc1d07&oe=5DA16D22)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 19, 2019, 05:17:07 PM
I just had an "uh oh" moment.
I was going to order some uncoupling magnets so I was looking at my layout design to see how many I wanted. As I looked at the tracks around the turntable, it occurred to me that I might not be able to get a standard freight car to one of those tracks that wasn't directly across from the lead track.
I just now had to check it out and I found that I can fit the Porter together with freight car on the turntable. There is body overhang but all the wheels are on with a little room to spare.
I figured I would probably use 18' freight cars there anyway. I received my two shorty tank cars in the mail today. I'll get a couple shorty gondolas and flats and maybe a box car. I'm still waiting on the derrick car that I ordered.
I'm only two crossovers and two turnouts shy of having all the track bought. I'll get those around the 1st.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 20, 2019, 05:22:33 PM
Since I'm going to put lights in my engine shed, I used some balsa wood to cover up the knobby projections in the corners that hold it together and aligned. I also used pieces to cover up where the walls are glued together and then added two more pieces so they just look like more support. I don't have the shed glued together yet because I still have to paint all the parts.
I bought a Chopper II from Northwest Short Line and it sure is easier cutting wood. I saw that NWSL is going out of business so I figured I'd better get it while I could.
I ordered some lighting stuff from Woodland Scenics so I'll try out that system. That way, I can light other structures, also.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67428811_10157427480670522_4127413535087001600_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_oc=AQmPsY2-w95AxljKkXbLcXCbLlI7ZkpdNvE_JF4BLyqwMfBmbHKdpVkUzCbVLEt-8br_Lf8cc9kgw91foROSzqXt&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=a7fd2e65ad67f8f0c51513ca56e89124&oe=5DECE5C3)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on July 21, 2019, 11:25:36 PM
Just remember that since you're going to light it, any ceiling underhangs will be visible through the fat gap along the eaves.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 22, 2019, 09:53:59 AM
I plan on running a ridge pole between the points at the ends. WS has these flat stick-on lights that I will try. I'll stick them to the ridge pole. With the position of the shed on the layout, you won't be able to see up there. I'm planning on four of the yellow ones. If that's too bright, I'll go with 3three or two. I'll clip the connectors and run a buss wire to connect them on top so that I'll only have one wire running down through the floor.
(https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/images/NewWSWeb/JPSOLGT_t_1.jpg)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Trainman203 on July 25, 2019, 02:48:59 PM
Is this an engine house or a covered bridge?


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 25, 2019, 05:45:52 PM
It started as two covered bridges and it is now an engine house.
The color didn't come out the way I wanted it. I wanted it like the one end I had done. I knew I didn't have enough Higgins brown ink to do the whole thing. I searched Walmart, Officemax Depot and Hobby Lobby down here and they only had Higgins black ink so I wasn't able to get any more. I had some Brea Reese brown ink but it wasn't as dark as the Higgins ink.
My next option was to try to whip up my own batch. I put some Reese brown in a bowl and added some Higgins black to darken it. I added a little water to try to thin it down. When I painted a side and went to wipe it off to get the effect I had on the end piece, it was already almost dry and wouldn't wipe off.
It doesn't look bad but not exactly what I wanted.
I painted the roof flat black but I'm going to get shingles for it. I'm going to go with Rail Scale Models O Scale Random Shake Shingles.
The base is long pieces of balsa. I took an ink pen and (pressing hard) drew lines every 3" on each piece to make the wood look like 12' long beams.
I just got the roof vents in the mail from Narrow Gauge Modeling and my light system arrived today from Woodland Scenics.
I still have to work on the back end and make that back wall with the door and window. I got the door and window from Tichy Train Group.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67247406_10157440666475522_2399533314139488256_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_oc=AQkA3SrOuPiui8llAwUKYV_J3ttHr7x54PebjgFbpJp1qG6NimbCzXAst6rYE7fclOzjzHy88w_vpURSGA-y-QWx&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=5f4d87a1832ca78bfeae3e0db36710b3&oe=5DE9017E)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on July 26, 2019, 06:56:52 PM
Working on the rear of the shed.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67368067_10157443297420522_7240707874802892800_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_oc=AQmfTPSdgemAbK8FOhofeFfuC6uT5x4PJDGRgK_SEm4sQiJ7f2YYiHYAHzquF-hncLfHnuV3sitRbXbnaASUMXW7&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=162876d1c01b34fdda6fa48bdf8c9f3a&oe=5DADE321)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on July 27, 2019, 02:13:57 AM
Looks good!  Keep up the good work.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 02, 2019, 02:25:10 PM
It's not done yet but I'm getting closer.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67756519_10157460881770522_1090553167810134016_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_oc=AQkEcL-qUNUjkKtvsHP_aF_HXgqt-VyOlD2_0_VzCxICoInTlvLISGuwIg4u7Ml-cMfp-Kw65TuNaSBej8iQY0UQ&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=e61b0e61bcc93b11176c78d3ba040d44&oe=5DD5911A)
I got the WS lights. I'm experimenting with how and where to mount them.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67699831_10157460873785522_4774925733799657472_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_oc=AQmGQtvSd4i0RF1Gb1Xo4mYl57qWVuzwPAwU1OgkkQFcEem5gZvRowoo5Qfu1pGKS4ppiPA6cRHG5nXHT8F-Qna3&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=db964e0a4f3a9667c0d0d69fb9083551&oe=5DE6CD5F)
At first, I used the little grain of wheat lights and they weren't very bright. These pics are with the bigger stick-on lights. I used four of them.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67425999_10157460879385522_2310354455746314240_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_oc=AQniL00KT40Lnhc9ZniNPzsQw_BMCKPGZDrsCL5kgvDg9_P2COeNJ8NpSG1-IPKotPd287DjdC7y-02Lw5HmCumm&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=41c91a80acd53ce90599c51e80877392&oe=5DECB3DE)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 02, 2019, 02:45:12 PM
I have the track in the shed wired and the decking over it. If I butted the balsa up against the rails, it would have been cocked at an angle because of the "spikes". This looks better. Wiring the shed track was just an extra precaution. The tracks get power through the turntable. If something goes down on an open track around the turntable, it's easy to retrieve a loco. Not so in the engine shed.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67792329_10157460923950522_6027416125199876096_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_oc=AQkpKBDP4O3bx3iED5Y23YF8aVqF3blp81uu_O7PhTSB9ODq97N3uElWsjfdcj5FHCW6c0A6JFpWWQez9piufxf9&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=c08c525f529f1669e0ed9c6bb9b003ca&oe=5DD97E23)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 03, 2019, 05:08:15 PM
I got the back wall built.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67556429_10157463948900522_2923297579384963072_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_oc=AQlEun4bcwALjkp_Nw407hzWX6bIC3JYUw12OOkYtaUS5lKKfFt__KIx3MLAVco6-SgCMy5dRz3Bps0dsWB79OJK&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=f141123afb9647168ba2c0e9d2f66e4d&oe=5DA88757)
I just have to stain it now. I was going to use a crate from Rail Scale Models but it just wasn't what I was really looking for. I ended up making a tool box type thing out of balsa and just using one of the crate sides for the lid. This gives me that little bit of extra room in back of it so I can pull the loco all the way in. There is no back to the tool box and the coupler sticks through the hole in the wall.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67591124_10157463949575522_5961181355764088832_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_oc=AQkVhFQI4WuXwImd149IyvkXyxGK0WIibcj6KPaVi4Ad61yiNarMs9Ck5wPPHsXffdKQ31sdxl4nT2PUr2ZflG22&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=922119bc49ee1e963d7912023ee85166&oe=5DE4BB0E)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 05, 2019, 02:02:33 PM
A peek at the inside before I glue it together.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/68300470_10157469093185522_3977104591853453312_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_oc=AQlQbekkLsNvmWnbycF_-jfQtuswZLLr_TW6QRyDbvPg8UaO9GFtuJoVPiYQyubDtZhzX00LJu71tklbaVH2xidc&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=d51ddf438b3f48e93b8887f53eec5614&oe=5DDAE654)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67937180_10157469093410522_682208374753853440_o.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_oc=AQkfWGquUs6idbdgJHiLFI_0f8ta2EwsK7Orxv0luWbroZ_4DLBTRS8Gr-h-VtAkZ0qQ2ym2HWPu7qf-bN4QzV6d&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=11fc6673dba882f811c7d488469b7537&oe=5DEC5833)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 14, 2019, 05:20:26 PM
I have the back door light installed.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/68522275_10157496047535522_6652413723094810624_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_oc=AQkMj4z1Hf7MMy-O7S9FF3acv1jlbQj6dQYr8DQT0GWW2Wi6YuNEtUIkTGEPY8bTi1q5XOp7fhFirfunPirH2wTU&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=6e93d8c20a9fb5b067dde4d15cf22daa&oe=5DCF0078)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: WoundedBear on August 14, 2019, 07:23:41 PM
That's a very convincing photograph. Nice work.

Sid


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: WoundedBear on August 14, 2019, 07:24:25 PM
Now paint your doorknob ;D


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 14, 2019, 07:58:36 PM
I will do that. I have to paint the knob on the box lid too. I just got the goose neck light the other day. It was a white bulb so I covered it with yellow India ink. I was mainly just seeing how much light it would put off and how it was going to look with the door, window, and box installed.
I have the overhead lights for inside the shed made now. I used the Woodland Scenics yellow Nano lights and bought the shades from a place called Ngineering. I drilled holes in the shades and super glued them to the lights.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/67939230_10157495651955522_1836756598224060416_o.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_oc=AQkX_-6jSZSQxOfkCC2FAxHswzl3ZDM7pS21LWnTgVx_-vF2514vsuTgX2-g3XS_fue0UdXiFUkHsDvY_p_wV9Ag&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=8a235d479ea899b67399732a8327a891&oe=5DE87F1E)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: bbmiroku on August 15, 2019, 10:05:11 PM
A lot of times, cheaper places would just paint the entire door, knob and all, to keep replacement cost down slightly.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 16, 2019, 12:26:29 AM
I used a T pin to put a dab of paint on the knob and box knob. I ended up get some on the door so I had to go back and touch that up.
I have the roof done now. I went with a tar paper roof. I had bought shingles from Rail Scale Models but I really didn't care for the way they looked. They're not bad. They just didn't seem right for my project. I found tar paper from Builders In Scale and it looks pretty good. I used three roof vents on top from Narrow Gauge Modeling.
I just put a brace on each end piece of the shed so I can lay the beam with the top lights on the braces. That way I don't have to attach the lights to the roof and I will be able to remove the roof if necessary.
I painted and assembled the two big front doors. I used the moss green paint like the back door and window. I sandwiched the window acetate between the two door parts before I stuck them together. After I had them together, I went over them with a wash of black ink to darken the grooves in them. 
I have the long strap hinges painted black but I haven't cut them out of the sheet yet. I'm trying to figure out how I will connect them to the frame. They are "stick-on" as were the doors. I'm leaning toward using four hinges on each door side. Maybe three. I'll have to lay them out and see what looks best.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 24, 2019, 03:50:57 PM
While I'm awaiting the hinges for the engine shed doors to arrive, I started on the turntable. I decided to build a wooden platform and put a stationary engine on it to make it look like that is what is powering the turntable. I don't have the platform built yet or the engine parts all painted and assembled. I didn't want the engine sitting too high on the platform so I cut the hole in TT box. It will look like the pulley is connected to another one underneath and out of sight.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/69594242_10157523603240522_4298443844392845312_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_oc=AQnCDQPsKewVqYSMWyT_Uk-joQzBq9-ZpzrmrN5BKfagUq3-8BBwQ16JQBrCruolSV6Q-yPOmmJS26av56FUJoI1&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=1f505ebca1460e84ece28aa9746ce7a2&oe=5E0A1A30)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/68964003_10157523604985522_7553663501504348160_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_oc=AQkeqISai-sX5V5iYzSvpcZo-ID_5N4_Nadys4kKg10IepR1zd362aDrUKSUG0maL3agr2ToxcV-YNueqOMkMGxR&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=fa46c03f1b52d852d491cb34014780b0&oe=5DD1C167)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/68778691_10157523606170522_1754849613384253440_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_oc=AQkK00LTmwZGRCVICv_9tXE6Hbin-Fv5k7c_LBldRS-8VMg7fUtQPMDuA87S-NIkAhXo0QW7Z3Fo6l1aDlkgmN_B&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=c04a3cef04601fcb135cb8bcb258393f&oe=5E0F2098)

(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/69303888_10157523606385522_7873411528790114304_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_oc=AQmRnTqz-bagxoNOBvm5O5jPNrvVrLIHlbhO25DeZGqR4RXlXPhkUzIwzDcGkLNhvLxjIyII-G139cm5W6vcHLFu&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=e5f123ead1535179d12b5a91bf82adb6&oe=5DD8141F)
The wooden platform will hide the plastic box. It will also be removable so I can access the turntable mechanism. It would be even neater if I could animate the pulley when the TT was moving.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: RAM on August 24, 2019, 09:32:58 PM
What happened to the poor guy in green.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 24, 2019, 10:37:15 PM
He wouldn't stand up and fell off.  ;D


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Len on August 24, 2019, 10:53:17 PM
Set the "Days Without an Accident" board back to 0.

Len


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 24, 2019, 11:22:55 PM
 ;D He shouldn't have gone out and gotten drunk the night before. The next thing you know, OSHA will be requiring hard hats to be on the platform.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 24, 2019, 11:30:10 PM
There are the gears right in front and a little  below where that pulley on the left sits. If I could figure out how to mount a wheel that would ride on one on of the gears and butt up against the pulley....


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 25, 2019, 02:22:32 AM
I'm thinking this kind of reminds me of building a gallows. Maybe a project for down the road a piece. ;) I still have to make the steps and the railings. I see I have a piece sticking up. I'll have to reglue that. It came loose when I was cutting the hole. The platform is basswood and I had to use that thin strip of balsa that I had to fill the gap.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/68923442_10157524838935522_3377676072437940224_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_oc=AQlr0n40Mpze_1KTRGAl2EO19E2jEyNQ-eaLsuHoX8IMaafjhOmiwfqSuiVjOEn8NXb59M4Ww7q_gOC8sAjF0Hw0&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=965e6aeaf030b95aea4a71cd0e2a319c&oe=5E13B667)
I screwed up cutting the hole so I had to put the piece back in.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/68798006_10157524838570522_5458999962605977600_o.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_oc=AQkUC7m3uQdEnGiGalqO6Vme9vyY2VybkquRT_ueCPOELdx47ficf-ZGMSLk6RW_JlfCv8_kR8QOr9VXSa80XH1Y&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=27c7731cd7f1eb658f0d700be97c1ce7&oe=5E0A6B11)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 26, 2019, 09:58:36 PM
I got one set of the hinges today for the engine shed. These are 1/12 scale Dollhouse Miniature cabinet hinges. I kind of like the look. I have another set ordered that are 1/48 scale hinges. I'll decide once I get those. I messed up the windows. I painted the doors before I detached them from the sheet. Once I detached the center window pieces out, the inside was still the original tan color. I put the acetate between the door halves and glued them together. It didn't look right with the light inner part of the frame so I tried to paint it by dipping a straight pin in paint and going around the inner edge.
I'll blame it on little Jimmy, the kid who was hanging around the yard. He asked Seth the yard guy if there was any work he could do to make a little money. Seth told him the shed doors needed painting and to go fetch the ladder and the paint over yonder and get 'er done. Jimmy got 'er done but he just weren't none too careful when it come to paintin' around the windows.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/69832204_10157530091940522_600811507474759680_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_eui2=AeFEK_IAMTe9GH7fQ9wMDrT73eGAlbpoGv-gJF65Bkjsvi6Dk9a5UynYQBV5YTWNHqqqjZViUMlBQ8O_VpEFdmhqTGJ8KHzy_m2jqAnqBTxV_Q&_nc_oc=AQm3TcFpS7pP6NslNl1O8wclpdaaTrFe9XjbYNrsH-DhD9F120ub5ou8w7URLtf3xcMEnyeGl3Tj7t1rhcWJnHF3&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=a8e26a2ffc1658c10a23f296c1154adc&oe=5E141D17)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 27, 2019, 01:12:32 PM
I got the other hinges today. Here is a comparison. I think I like the bigger ones better. I'm going to remove those windows and replace them.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/69298490_10157531577695522_537560967215579136_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_oc=AQl3K9wnPjEZOvzXZ4nEtQZ_vVhKx2dOiPoeL3YYNNNRgLaVvQzainVRBto4mOkCuhkcv2ptzaat1k_YXHb5OXKB&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=a0eca30451c4420ed05ac18dd9688cba&oe=5DD5D023)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: WoundedBear on August 27, 2019, 02:51:38 PM
I would use the silver coloured hinges on the left side of the photo.

Sid


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on August 27, 2019, 03:47:37 PM
I should paint the silver ones black too and see how they look. The black ones came as an assembled finished product though. The silver ones are raw two piece castings and will take some work. The black ones came with the brass nails I could push into the doors and clip off. They would look nice. I wouldn't even attempt to paint the heads on the silver hinges. On the flip side, the black ones look pretty large. I just checked the fit on the frame and the black brackets will fit the frame, too. I'll paint the silver ones black and check it before I make a decision.
I'm going to cut the windows out. I have a couple more door pieces that are just like framework but I haven't cut the individual pieces out of those. I can cut the parts out where the windows will be and paint everything. then, cut more acetate and glue to the back of the doors as they are now. Then, put the framework door over that so it will be three layers of door instead of two. It just now hit me that maybe I was supposed to put the framework pieces between the two solid door pieces. There were no instructions that I remember. I just figured it was a choice of either/or frame back or solid back. To fix the window, I'll have to use the frame back because the two solid pieces are super glued together.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on September 05, 2019, 10:40:53 AM
I'm getting down to the final stages. I'm trying to work out the wiring on the lights. These WS lights have pretty long wires and I'm trying to fit everything up in the ceiling. I have long piece of wood for a light bar with the overhead lights. I was hoping to be able to shorten the wires.
The ends with the plugs have some type of gadget wired in with shrink wrap over it. A resistor maybe? That means I can't do away with all the excess wiring.
There is no room under the roof for this thing and it wouldn't look right on the wall with all the wires sticking out. Plus it has 4 holes and I have 4 overhead lights and the door light so I have to combine something.
(https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/images/NewWSWeb/JP5681_t_1.jpg)
The door light also has it's own linker plug that has a resistor attached to it so I can't do away with the linker plug. I cut some excess plastic from the linker so it will fit up in the ceiling.
(https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/images/NewWSWeb/JP5662_f_2.jpg)
I'll have to cut the wires close to the plugs so I can keep the "resistors?". I don't want to cut the wires shorter and then have to resolder the resistors in. I figure I'll solder all the light wires together and stow them above the light bar. I can solder a single pair of wires coming off that and run that into a splicer plug that I can mount inside on the ledge. I cut out the center part of the splicer plug out and glued the two halves together so it's not as wide. I painted it black.
(https://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/images/NewWSWeb/JP5686_t_1.jpg)
I have a spool of WS wire and I can run wires out the bottom of the splicer plug and down the wall to where they exit at the same place as the track wires.
The light hub will be adjacent to the train power supply so I will run the light wiring under the layout to it.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on September 06, 2019, 06:18:11 PM
This is inside the wall. I cut a notch for the light wire to run down to the base and out from the base under the wall along with the track power wire. I'll run the wires from the roof to the top of the black connector and the wires at the bottom will go to the power.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/69545418_10157559922080522_3666345849513836544_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_oc=AQmxO7xLVXOPOf9j5U9phhmWyCLY2MRDV7BCLoCrLkyIgsv36QsXoi58kjZHIB8W1qOxZ-n6-z39P6R2jwPuVDo4&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=bc6da32f3b1d3218531c5c34ba58cbcf&oe=5E0F60BB)
I have my overhead lights on the light bar. I got all the wires soldered and all the lights work including the back door light. I sure am glad to get that done. I had to solder all the light wires together and to a buss wire. This way, I only have the buss wire running down from the light bar to the connector on the wall instead of a whole bunch of wires.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/69825292_10157559928775522_46225414451888128_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_oc=AQmp4WnznTtTlb5GVLcc_BMXPRwL6hLNIi5xxauwDYDPyjScOkSgbh6RdWcemBFjUAqOKOQx0zTd7A-bppk97vBf&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=d70795ff72c97f5c7c21762cfecc4ecd&oe=5E00E1BE)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on September 08, 2019, 02:26:38 PM
Because of the hollow space under the E-Z Track, it sounds really noisy when the trains are running. I bought some foam window insulation from Lowe's (1/2" wide x 1/4" thick) and I will stick that under the track before I lay it. I tapped a Sharpie along the top of the track and it is definitely quieter where the part with the foam is stuck under there.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/69920274_10157564675490522_8934439807212322816_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_oc=AQkYX5HJfDQaydNr912XbN6ThS9mlCdoC432b9pScV8oTJx9ozg8vn9NaMG_amOX57Jh_RqWghPePEuUHxEVz_pg&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=6807d363e301940cd69440bdc0c54c53&oe=5E0028BB)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on September 14, 2019, 12:21:36 PM
I have the walls all glued together now and I got the hinges glued on. That was a real tricky situation to deal with. I had to use the tape to keep the doors in place within the frame. I glued the long pieces to the doors first, Then I snapped the vertical pieces to the doors and glued to the frame. I just hope the super glue holds when I try to open the doors.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/70264203_10157580517965522_6461529369117458432_n.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_oc=AQkEZjYFCqRBMeTYzsAG-2kfEUQvmpLE5n8HgZvd72t0Bp-em6ASgqA6dzPH72hUL7KZMpZsNY6lahoot7ggp-Rp&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=ed9b11ccc3791fb861354e27c47f80d7&oe=5E063D34)
I have the push-down connector for the light wires glued in place now. The bottom wires are already run out the bottom. I have a piece of balsa wood covering them on the wall.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/70887575_10157580526285522_521884787556745216_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_oc=AQkDnV1SMDq-3P5oosDHCEj6bq24DDa4ojxqkbJtbsGrehMN79wvBjmXx6y2S_kDo2IIJzp9L99x3Rof3NAQUStE&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=f2412383cff34ae61b6ceed3bb63406d&oe=5E0175F5)
A guy on an On30 Facebook page spoke of "analysis paralysis". I think that is a constant affliction with me. With these two projects, I spend so much time thinking and rethinking what and how I should go about doing a particular part that I get bogged with the thinking part. I lay awake at night trying to figure out how I'm going to do something like how to attach the doors or how to do the wiring. Sometimes it takes a week or two of thinking before I even attempt to try something. Since these projects are one of a kind things it makes it harder because there are no plans in place other than an idea I started with.


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on September 22, 2019, 05:36:06 PM
I have it assembled. I just got the wiring all done and the light bar glued on. It was a real hassle trying to get all those wires together and taped up. There's a whole jumble of them in there from the four overhead lights and the light over the door.  I see a couple places that I should tape a little more. It ain't pretty but the lights all work. The only thing left is to glue the roof on and take the tape off the doors now and hope those hinges are going to hold ok. I'll probably just kind of tack the roof on in case I have to open it up for something.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/70978487_10157603383380522_7029816583908229120_o.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_oc=AQkbaiwvTbV0Bp6G37BUQnn7fYyAMss3g8oJtGQvjWzXkoXcDR2L2uMs1zQrTlSVnfBaAZHWybDXCYPzHWk332LV&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=7300d1b1df236abfe9e5a7244855b3e8&oe=5DFBD5BF)


Title: Re: Reworking the layout
Post by: Terry Toenges on September 22, 2019, 06:41:39 PM
I know the photography is crappy. I just wanted to get a couple pics with it finished and my hands aren't all that steady. I'll get some better pics later on. I was really worried about the placement of the hinge pieces as to how far in or out on the frame and doors to glue them. I am so relieved I got it right just by guessing.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/70904268_10157603514790522_1493573262276296704_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_oc=AQksOX8cs4ZGwdq4gYXPLDjsIJR4OvBIWc29CHOueJOm_9fpV0suuvaYSvktE6_pJb1m1zUu8QSf8L-nERjcldaJ&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=d8a63d5676a125b3cd680b4c1c69ac3b&oe=5E31E672)
I had this kneeling figure and I figured it would be cool to have him repairing the roof. I had to do a lot of filing on his feet to get him to kneel upright. I glued him down and glued a piece of the tar paper material to his hand and the roof. I forgot to put the ladder in the pic.
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/71294683_10157603521505522_8727314154664230912_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_oc=AQkltMhq8YAXhMtZ8EYXZnQox7hBDue18w6__YSfGfZLl-_4PTvRyA4WdP8CPWKE2ND9MNZzKvFG4cQWH5de2box&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=951f0464983c4a6022ae58a22a0cbeeb&oe=5E313E1C)