Here's my latest project. It's almost done. I'm waiting for the new couplers to arrive. That one on there is just temporary. I wanted a car to go with my new Bachmann Santa Fe 4-4-0 and my four Overton Santa Fe passenger cars. I figured a car to carry spare wood and water would nice to have in case I was pulling a heavy load and started running low before I got to the next stop.
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An internet search has been unsuccessful, but just a few years after the golden spike, a chartered transcontinental train, on the Central Pacific portion of the trip, had a Jupiter-like 4-4-0 with a special 6-wheel tender for long distance running. When I get home to my books I'll fill in the blanks.
Luvin' it ! But I wouldn't research it too deep, it may be 'classified' information.
;)
Ken
I've had the loco for many years. It barely runs. I don't know how Military RR tender came to be with Jupiter. I don't remember doing any switching way back then but maybe I did. I had put the loco with it to see how long I would have to make the hose.
I looked around at a few sites for something like a hand cranked pump with a handle but couldn't find anything.
I had a couple old sets of HO loco detail parts still on the trees. I used one of the pumps from it and I might try to come up with a handle for it. I don't know if it would work on gravity alone.
The long hose is just piece of solid rubber cord from something. The top part of the wood bin is an On30 tender fence. The bottom part is just a balsa box I built so I wouldn't have to cut that many matchsticks. The two hose cradles on the side are pieces of sprue.
The rod running to the tanks and the angle on top of the pump are sprue, too. The plastic hose pieces I got from cutting up one of my oxygen hoses. The little pieces on the ends of the hoses are plastic Kadee coupler washers. For the hose nozzle, I took a 2-56 screw and ground the edge of the head off some and then drilled in the center a little ways. That way, I was able to stick the end of the hose in there and glue it after I whittled it down.
The tank covers are pieces of napkin with black rubber bands.
I didn't do very good with the Woodland Scenics dry transfers for the lettering. Trying to cut out little letters and numbers and hold them in place while I burnished them was a major challenge.
I'm getting some different Overton cars. Mine are old and missing the rails and brake wheels and the observation car is missing the fence. I searched and searched for the green Santa Fe Overton cars but to no avail. Now, I'll just find some cheap ones with different road names with good complete chassis and switch bodies. I really wanted to add a fifth Santa Fe car but I couldn't find any.
I have McHenry couplers coming so that they fit into the truck pockets. I put a different truck on the front so I could have the temporary coupler for now.
I don't recall ever seeing a 4-4-0 with 6 wheel tender.
I wanted a five car consist because I'm doing my passenger trains with five cars. I have five for my 2-4-0 KC StL & C train, five for my F40PH Amtrak train and seven for Bachmann A-B-A F7 Santa Fe passenger train.
Since I couldn't find another green Santa Fe Overton to go with my Bachmann Santa Fe 4-4-0, I came up with the idea for a wood and water car for the fifth car and made it Santa Fe. I also thought about a horse car but couldn't find an old time SF one. I didn't think a box car would look right. A flat with crates was another option, but I figured doing this one was unique.
As hard as it was to do the lettering, I wasn't about to spell out "Santa Fe". That would have been a disaster.
I'm thinking about looking for a couple extra cars for John Bull, Dewitt Clinton, and Lafayette so I will have five for those too.
Jupiter was included with the Union Civil War set years ago.
(https://www.banditsmodeltrains.com/uploads/6/4/4/1/6441579/s104727201997412423_p734_i1_w575.jpeg)
This folks have some, let's say unique, castings. About 2/3 of the way down the first page is a hand crank sharpening wheel. You should be able to 'borrow' the crank from that for your pump.
http://www.besttrains.com/castings_ho.html
Len
As the tender appears to have a coal (or lignite?) load, shouldn't the extra fuel be the same? OTOH as the "coal" in the tender looks distinctly plastic you might be well to replace that with wood too. I have always liked the wood load in the Richmond, but two together look too much the same so some variation is needed. If you are burning "emergency" wood you could put some old furniture and a piano from the lounge car on the pile??
BTW Hornby have intriduced a SteamPunk range (ugly critters, I won't be buying any!), so maybe you have started the US version??
https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/bassett-lowke-steampunk
Best Regards,
Bill.
Bill - If you read my post, I'm not using it with the USMRR loco. The Santa Fe loco I'm using it with is a wood burner. I'll probably redo that load with match sticks to "match" the car.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61A3hTEemgL._AC_SX679_.jpg)
The fuel in the tender supposed to be wood stacked on end so it takes less space. And yes, it's very plasticy looking.
Len
Thanks for the link Len. I think that would work. I wasn't aware of that company.
I like the "not so squared away" look of the wood in the tender. I've seen pics of it stacked in a variety of ways.
The 6 wheel tender on the 4-4-0 was apparently a one time special deal to extend distances between water and wood stops on a timed chartered train from NY to San Francisco in the early 1870's. There's a photo of it in one of my Beebe books back home. When I get back I'll post full information. I'll have to figure out how to post photos here. I've been unsuccessful in the past.
I tried this era maybe fifteen years ago with link and pin couplers. They were over size and a real pain. I could easily lose the pins.
Hminky had solution but I finally gave up and went with Kadee old time couplers. I took off the glad hands. No air pumps then.
Rich
I tried Google too for the tender and no luck. I have Beebe books also so I'll look.
It's in Hear the Train Blow. I'll get the page number and report back.
Terry,
An aside ---
Click Here (https://youtu.be/QuE22ZCqlRw?t=34m51s) for video segment -- just in case you want to do more to locomotive. Part of the headlight flicker seen is due to the video frame rate.
Click Here (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t2PhsFB3cHg) This SoundTraxx video shows and identifies the headlight effect used
FYI George Bogatiuk III - Product Expert at SoundTraxx
I have been pouring through a series of old time locomotive book's by White, Abdill, even Mr Lincoln's Military Railroads. Central Pacific Railroad from what I can see. Maybe later days. Seems to be dated 1879.
I found one in a book by Abdill. Pacific Slope Railroads. Page 22. Queen of the Humboldt, a 4-4-0, with two six wheel trucks under the tender. I think that might be what you want. There may be more. Eye sight not so good.
Abdill has great books having been a a loco driver.
The book is at Amazon and probably at a library via loan.
Edit.
The tender has coal on it. They use to run wood.
Rich
Quote from: Len on February 08, 2020, 10:33:49 AM
The fuel in the tender supposed to be wood stacked on end so it takes less space. And yes, it's very plasticy looking.
Len
Click Here (https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/board/index.php/topic,34942.msg257435.html#msg257435)
As Terry called to Harold's attention -- Sometimes folks just don't do what they are suppose to do with the wood.
;D
I have a few Abdill books, too. I don't plan on any 6 wheel tenders. This car was just an off the wall idea I had.
I have all of Abdill's books. I saw the occasional variation.
Rich
I was just now going to remove the plastic wood load from my new 4-4-0 and I don't think it's removable. I think it's all one piece with the body. I can't see any seam.
https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/HO4-4-0AMERICAN_BODYASSEMBLY(DCCREADY).pdf (https://www.bachmanntrains.com/home-usa/dwg/dwgs/HO4-4-0AMERICAN_BODYASSEMBLY(DCCREADY).pdf)
Well, the photo of the CP 4-4-0 with 6 wheel tender was not in Hear the Train Blow. But. I'm fairly certain that the train was the 1877 Coast to Coast Frank Leslie special, took 7 days, nothing compared to the voyage around Cape Horn. I lost a lot of books in a flood and the photo may have been in Rails to Promontory by Donald Duke. But I assure the world that there is a photo of a 4-4-0 with a very long 6 wheel tender.
:D :D :D Well lookie here. I was looking at George Abdill's book "Pacific Slope Railroads" (looking for the 12 wheel tender) and look what I found - A flat car tender. It appears the wood is just kind of tossed in there, too. :D
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The Eureka with the 12 wheel tender
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I looked through "Hear The Train Blow" also and didn't see it.
I'm pretty sure that the 158 was the same engine I saw in the photo, presumably on the Frank Leslie special.
After watching the video, I see I'll have to cut out the plastic wood load. I just hate to start butchering my brand new toy but the plastic load sucks. When I do that, I'll end up thinking about changing the speaker like he said in the video. I don't know if I want to do all that yet until I look inside.
What sucks is that I ordered some couplers to fit the pockets on these trucks on the 1st of Feb from a company (Bachmann doesn't make these kind.).
After about four days, I hadn't received a shipping notice. When I checked, it said still awaiting shipment. This company has done this to me before. They advertise the item but don't tell you they don't have it in stock.
I figured I would get them elsewhere. I checked Ebay and found them and ordered them. The seller was in Texas. I've been waiting, so I checked the tracking on the package. It went from Texas to Hawaii. ??? It was in Hawaii yesterday and said it is scheduled to be delivered Monday. We shall see.
I'm having a heck of a time just to get a pair of couplers for this car.
I don't want to mess with body mounting them. I just wanted to slide them in and be ready to go.
Terry, are you going to make a flat car tender? Now THAT would be ONE OF A KIND.
I don't plan on making a flat car tender but you never know.
I tried removing the wood load from My SF tender this morn and screwed up my tender. I was using my battery powered Dremel on the load and the collet got the front lip part on the body. I put that away and started with the Exacto knife. I slipped with that and got a nick out of one of the tool boxes.
I knew I shouldn't have tried it because I knew I would screw something up. Bachmann's website doesn't have any SF tender bodies. You can buy whole tenders but they don't have an SF one. I wouldn't want to pay that much anyway when I just want a new body.
Maybe I'll call them. It's not real noticeable unless you look close but I know it's there.
Anyone have a spare SF tender body for 4-4-0?
Put up a photo of the damage. There may be a way to cover it up or detail around it.
Once I took off my magnifier and looked at it, it's not that bad. From the distance that people will be seeing it, they probably won't even notice. I just cut a small piece of styrene and covered the hole and glued it. Th mad eit black.
The back -
(https://scontent-ort2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/s960x960/85201043_10158064902250522_5966272674421276672_o.jpg?_nc_cat=109&_nc_ohc=6Us_hSZFR-0AX_FuVm7&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-1.xx&oh=e9d470967abefcafbcb820f8cec6aef6&oe=5EC79841)
You can barely see the nick in lip and the tool box here.
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Those tender top lips got bent up all the time. Clean up with files and sanding sticks, touch up paint, weather , and pile on more wood!
I toasted the brake wheel too I can scrounge one of those off something else. It just bummed me because it was new. If it would have been an old thing I was working on, it wouldn't have mattered so much. I know things got messed up in real life, too. It could have been worse so I'll just, as they say "Chalk it up to experience."
I put it all back together for a run around the track. Now, I can barely even hear the sound. I guess the plastic wood load was acting like the back of a speaker cabinet. The plastic was pretty thick. I just put a thin sheet of styrene over the hole when I cut the load off. The pcb board was on top of the speaker so I don't think it should have made that much difference should it?
I didn't want to mess with a new speaker like in the video. I might have to now. :(
My first thought before I started on this was to shave off pieces of match stick and glue them over the plastic load. I guess that's what I should have done.
I took the body off again to check it out underneath. There's a spot on that black thing on the right. Would that affect the sound? Maybe super glue leaked on it? That's the only thing I can see. I don't even know if it looked like that before. I unscrewed the pcb board and didn't see anything wrong under there. I had never unscrewed it before now.
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It's holes in the sound chamber that weaken the volume.
So I Googled "What is a sound chamber?" before asking here. This is what showed up.
A: A sound chamber is a hollow rim with 10 large holes all round the inside of the rim. This helps to give more resonance and volume. ... A grooved rim is not available with sound chamber.
What is considered the sound chamber on the tender? The speaker itself? The bottom of the tender has holes for the sound.
I never did anything at all to the tender other than remove the body until earlier today when I unscrewed the pcb board to look at the speaker. That was only after I ran it and the sound was barely audible.
The pcb board is flat against the speaker so the area above the board (under the wood load) shouldn't have any effect on the sound. The speaker is flat against the frame.
I just don't understand what could have happened. The sound worked right and it was loud before I took the body off and now it doesn't and I didn't mess with any of the electric stuff. I took the body back off and ran it and still almost no sound. I unplugged it from the loco and replugged it to make sure the plug was seated all the way. I can still barely hear it. Just the noise of it traveling on the track pretty much drowns out the sound all together.
Len- I got the grinding wheel with crank from Best Trains but I don't know if I can figure out a way to use it. The crank is cast as a part of the wheel. Trying to cut it away might be a problem. It will some pondering as to how I want to do it. On the plus side, it was a pack of three. If I screw one up, I have two more.
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Terry - The painted up picture on their site faked me out. I thought the handle was seperate. It looks like some careful work with a razor saw should seperate the handle from the main casting. The a little touch up with a file and it should be good to go.
Len
It wasn't what I thought either. I thought about drilling holes in both sides and plug a hose in each side. Maybe it would look like some kind of pump that way. It's awful small though to do that because the hose is big.
As always... work slow, check your work often, and give it some rust. You'll do fine as long as the magnifying glass doesn't break. :P
I have the crank ground down some but I haven't attached it yet. I post another pic when I do. I haven't done anything with it lately. Sometimes, I just back from the train stuff for a while.