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Discussion Boards => General Discussion => Topic started by: DrummerEGConrail on April 01, 2020, 10:22:34 PM

Title: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: DrummerEGConrail on April 01, 2020, 10:22:34 PM
Hi all, I hope everyone is well.

I don't have any benchwork to put my 4'x8' E-Z Track HO layout on, as I live in a very small apartment and don't have the room even for a stowaway type table. I would like to get into DCC, mainly for adding sound and better speed control. I've been reading some of the websites that have been shared on here for others who are getting started like me.

The issue is, I don't think I can use the type of starter system I was wanting to get (NCE PowerCab or MRC Prodigy Express) because there's no way to do a track bus without wires being all over the floor. However, I would like more control of the sound/light functions than the E-Z Command seems to have... not saying it's bad, but I am well aware of its limitations.

Am I missing or misunderstanding something about the setup of those systems, or am I just stuck with DC until I can get a better space to actually build something? I appreciate all of you, and hope that everyone stays well and safe during this crazy time!

Eric
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: DrummerEGConrail on April 01, 2020, 10:26:57 PM
I forgot to mention that I set it up when I want to run it and break it down when I'm done, as I have to use my living room floor. I don't know if that helps or not.

Eric
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: Trainman203 on April 01, 2020, 11:05:34 PM
You don't need a track bus on a layout that size.  Just two wires from the command station to the track.  Period.  Just like DC.  Don't let tech dudes talk you into stuff you don't need.  I have a 40' main line with 20 switches and guess what- two wires to the track, that's all.

Incidentally, I had a 1x8 layout for quite awhile, DCC! Two wires to the track from an NCE Powercab!  A runaround track and two setouts!  Scenery!  You could do that.  Stand it up against the wall when not running!  Put the buildings In boxes when not on the layout.  That thing would keep me busy for a couple of hours switching and running the engine, blowing the whistle, etc.  Model railroading at its most basic!  And just as fun as a full basement !  Do it! You can!
 
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: Trainman203 on April 01, 2020, 11:13:15 PM
Oh, and model railroading is the best thing you can be doing right now in these times!
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: Nathan on April 02, 2020, 08:26:45 AM
Two web sites to help you:

https://dccwiki.com/Main_Page

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/

Nathan
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: DrummerEGConrail on April 02, 2020, 09:50:59 AM
So, with using E-Z Track, would I have to use different wires from the command station to the track or could I just use the wire I already have?

Eric
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: jward on April 02, 2020, 10:15:30 AM
My DCC system (Digitrax Zephyr) has screw terminals for the track connections. I suspect all the others do too, as the plug in used in EZ track seems to be proprietary. You could use the wires that came with your track for the plug into your terminal track, and cut off whatever plug is on the other end. You'd strip the ends of the wires bare then connect them to the DCC unit via the screw terminal.

That said, A bus is not necessary on ANY DCC layout regardless of its size. It's just the way all the so-called experts did it. My first layout with DCC was a 13x13 L shaped monster with a multiple track mainline and I merely removed one of the DC cabs and plugged in my unit. It worked well with the existing block control system the layout already had. One slight modification i DID make was to add a DPST switch where i could switch the layout between DC and DCC as desired. Once i had a few locomotives converted to DCC, the only time i switched to DC mode was when i needed to test a DC locomotive prior to DCC conversion.
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: Trainman203 on April 02, 2020, 11:27:42 AM
To connect my NCE PowerCab to my EZ track, I used a standard Bachmann cable with the EZ track rerailer plug on one end.  I cut off the  jack like plug intended for the EZ command station.  You then strip the insulation from maybe 1/4" of each wire, fit them into the Powercab, plug the track plug into the rerailer just like DC and By God you've got DCC!  I did the exact same thing.  You can by a spare EZ command cable, I'd do that to keep a good one for the EZ command.

I agree with Mr. Ward about the so called experts.  I do believe that pontification out of a certain Midwestern city has caused a notable amount of anxiety about DCC with beginning modelers.

I do have to say, do not delay going to DCC a day longer.  You can have sound, you can make your engines crawl like ants with no jerking, you can run multiple engines completely independently from each other.  All with just your modified EZ command cable to the track !


DCC makes even the smallest of layouts a wonderland of astounding railroad realism.  Do it ASAP, and report back!

Oh, one last thing.  Layouts don't have to be 4x8.  Google shelf layouts and see what comes up.  You sound like a candidate for one. My 1x8, an actual shelf board, kept me busy with DCC for many a happy hour .
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: rich1998 on April 02, 2020, 01:59:09 PM
I use to run my larger than 4 x 8 HO with my NCE Power Cab with two #22 wires when I switched from DC.
No problem.

Rich
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: DrummerEGConrail on April 02, 2020, 07:49:58 PM
I appreciate everyone's help and advice! You all put my mind at ease, which is a great thing in this current situation!
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: Piyer on April 03, 2020, 08:37:17 AM
Eric, on a side note, do you have space under your bed? You could build a roll-away or folding roll-away layout that could fit under there. Also, if you put a lip (say, using 1x4 or 1x6 lumber) around the edge of a layout to protect the track, you could lean it against the wall, or flip it to form a platform under the dining table or sofa when not in use. You could also uses pulleys and counterweights to lift it up to the ceiling when not in use.

Model Railroaders have been thinking outside the box for decades!  ;D
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: Trainman203 on April 03, 2020, 09:47:23 AM
Eric as you make your journey through model railroading you will find that no one has the space they really want for a layout but rather have to make do with much less with some set of problems always present.

I've always wanted a very long railroad with lots of running time between towns.  So I've always wanted a building 10' wide by 1000' long!  😂

Of course that isn't going to happen.  We live in a very small house in a flood prone region raised 9' above the ground.  No space available at all in the house itself.  But among the junk stored downstairs is a covered but open air 10' square area!  My railroad place!  It's perfect!  As long as the temperature is above 55 (with jacket) or below 85 (with giant fan blowing).  Down here in Mississippi that's about 15 or 20 days a year.  But I have a layout!  It's great, even though my night visitors (cats, raccoons, possums ) don't allow me to leave anything on it if I'm not there.  You have to run the fan all the time to keep the mosquitoes and gnats off of you.

But!  If I can have a layout with all those conditions, you can too!  Put your thinking cap on and report back with your plan.
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: DrummerEGConrail on April 19, 2020, 12:54:40 PM
So... I was doing some more reading on the NCE PowerCab (on NCE's website), and I came across the part where they say that a CP6 circuit protection module must be used. I'm only going to be running, at most, 2 trains at a time. Is that still a necessity or are they just trying to sell product? I'm probably going to only have 3 DCC-equipped locos for a while, especially considering space and financial resources... but I want to make sure that I do things the right way the first time around because of the finances too!

I'm starting to come up with some ideas... now I just have to start feeling well enough to move furniture around and see if I can make the space for what I have in mind! (Polycystic Kidney Disease sucks... constant back pain. Thank goodness I got a transplant exactly 1 year  ago today, because I'd be feeling awful all over on top of the pain!)

Eric
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: Trainman203 on April 19, 2020, 01:52:18 PM
Short answer- No.  For what you're doing you don't need anything besides the connection between your Powercab and the rails.  They are talking about big layouts with multiple multiple trains where a short can't be readily found.  I've had momentary shorts on my Powercab with no problem since I can see the whole operation and see the problem immediately. NCE is being conservative and forestalling problems in advance.  They are a very upright and straight forward company, only 10 guys.  Great customer support too.  They are not trying to boost sales on the backs of customer insecurity.

There's so much ancillary satellite stuff surrounding DCC, it amazing that anyone transitions to it.  NCE has great advice in their procab system that applies well to the Powercab. Unpack it, connect the components as per the instructions, and temporarily connect it to a simple loop of track on a table, just to become accustomed to it. And NCE has great set instructions on their web site as well.  Go ahead!  Dive in!  There's water in the pool! You'll never regret it! Guaranteed!!!
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: rich1998 on April 19, 2020, 02:19:35 PM
The Power Cab also shows the DCC current the locos are drawing. It handles shorts just fine.
I will probably give mine to my nephew for his son as his grandmother bought him a Bachmann set. Maybe he will be able to use it if he knows friends who use DCC.
The 0-27 was too much for him as the pins kept falling out of the old track. It ran fine but was a pain to set up. The Tin Plate rattled real loud anyway. lol

Rich
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: DrummerEGConrail on April 19, 2020, 10:48:59 PM
Awesome! That's a little bit more money that I can put towards something else!
Title: Re: Thinking of switching to DCC
Post by: jward on April 22, 2020, 06:44:37 PM
Sorry, but i am going to have to contradict Trainman here.

If they recommend that you use a circuit protection module, which i assume acts like a circuit breaker then you should do it. Here's why:

I am not sure what the current rating for your powercab is, but bear in mind this isn't DC we're talking about. With DCC the full output voltage is on the rails at all times. If you accidentally short something out, you run the risk of doing serious damage due to the high amperage going through the short, until the internal circuit breaker kicks in. I have heard reports of wheels actually welded to the track on a 5 amp system. Your powercab is going to be less than that . but still.....

adding an additional layer of protection for an expensive control system cannot hurt you. It can only help you. Will you ever need its protection? Hopefully not. But it's like having a surge protector for your computer. Would you rather replace the surge protector? or the computer?

Trust me, it's easy to make mistakes in wiring, or have a derailment that shorts the rails at a switch. On the old DC power packs, the amount of current flowing through such a short was limited by the rheostat used as a speed control knob. It controlled voltage, and therefore indirectly the current. And if the circuit breaker on the pack (if it had one) failed then this is what would burn out first, thus shutting off the track power.

I've said it before: DCC systems have the full track voltage on the rails at all times. The speed control does not change this. In case of a short you are relying on the internal circuit breaker to protect the powercab before anything internal burns out. I would assume the circuit protection module would be set to trip at a slightly lower amperage than the internal circuit breaker, thus providing that crucial extra layer of protection.

Could you get by with out it? Probably. But I wouldn't want to take that chance.