Can anyone think of a reason why the front wheels of the front truck of my
Bachmann 0-6-0 opens the points of the EZ-track turnouts as it passes over them--of
course resulting in derailing. The problem occurs on all right turnouts--
i.e. as the engine approaches the turnout. The engine navigates the points
o.k. but those front wheels open the points and go over to derail. Making
me crazy!
Front wheels of the tender?
A 0-6-0 has no "front trucks", just the drivers. Is the loco moving with the points or against the points? If moving against the points, is the right point all the way tight against the right stock rail? Are the wheels in gauge? Is the cowcatcher too low catching the points?
Need more input.
Bob
Looks like there is something wrong with the new right hand turnouts. The older model works fine i have 8 in all. Just bought 2 new models and am having a miserable time with them in spite of doing all the filing and grinding. Has anyone used the #5 turnout [right hand] because i think i am going to change to those. I have had enough of these regular right had turnouts.
I have several #5 Bachmann turnouts (RH) on my layout and they all work well.
Are the wheels in gauge? Is the truck free to turn? Are all the on the track? Is the drawbar between the locomotive and tender free to move up and down?
I have about 50 EZ Track turnouts on my layout, and I have had issues with a few that I'm not sure what to do about.
Upon investigation, I discovered that the pivot pins on some of them are loose, causing the points to rock side to side. If a loco (Or even a certain weighted car in the middle of the train) hits it just right, the points rock enough so the next set of wheels gets in between the point and the opposing rail, and forces it open. Almost instantaneous derailment. Always when approaching it from the diverging side. Usually once a train is on the siding it will come off OK, and I have no problems when approaching it from the other end.
I know this doesn't help you out, but know that you are not alone.
Jonathan
Do you think tapping that pivot pin lightly using
a nail-set would tighten it?
I also find the frogs on my turnouts are poorly
designed. Too much space. Wheels drop in the
spaces like sacks of cement.
eagle37.
I havn't thought that far ahead. I suppose you could try it. I wish we could get some input from a bachmann engineer ot quality control person.
Dear Jonathan,
Your dealer (or we) will replace any defective turnout.
Have fun!
the Bach-man
The Only Problem I have had is the # 4 turnouts, Bachmann needs to have the frogs redone on them, I used a jeweler's file and fixed the problem.
as for the # 5 switches, I like them a lot, I have had good luck with them.
I think it is the locomotive itself, if it is an older 0-6-0 check if the wheels are loose, bachmann had a bad problem with the crappy plastic sleeves slipping and cracking on them, Bowser made a kit that fixed that problem.
also like the other guy's said gauge the wheels, a lot of times on some locomotives the wheels are properly lined up and they either have a small wobble or not lined up.
Bachmann needs to redo the # 4 switches, get rid of the plastic frogs and put metal ones in like the # 5 switches
take care
George
I just bought 2 turnouts, regular remote, HO scale, EZ Track NS, RH and a LH. My loco negotiates both turnouts just fine, forward and reverse. My B Unit (Dummy) derails everytime at the LH turnout. No other cars will follow the loco either, they derail. I can back up and they won't derail, but heading into the LH turn on the turnout, the wheels jump off. Its like the trucks are not following, or hitting the frog going into the turn, they want to keep going straight. I believe they are the old style, they have rivets. Both LHS I went to, all they had were the old style. Is there a remedy? Thank you - Rock.
Have you tried A unit and cars - no B unit? Are your cars weighted to NMRA standards?
Gene
I have tried without the B Unit, no luck, the only other cars I have are Athearn Heavyweight Passenger cars, they derail as well. I can roll the B Unit by hand with a slight push and it rolls right through, but hooked up to the loco, it derails, I have tried different speeds, same outcome. - Rock
Have you added weight to the B unit and the cars or are they "as delivered"? If the latter, try bringing both up to NMRA standards and see what happens. I have an idea there is a slight unevenness in the turnout and the loco is heavy enough to bring it down, but the followers are not.
Gene
Gene, they are as delivered, so I will have to check the weight, also, I have been going through all the threads I can find, I may have to gauge the wheels? I will have to buy a gauge. I tried a heavy B Unit, its weighted like a loco but no motor, and it too derails following the loco. To me it seems like its hitting the frog head on, once in awhile, the B Unit (unweighted) will jump back on but all the wheels are not on the rail until it gets to the rerailer. I guess I have some troubleshooting ahead of me. Thank you for your help, any more suggestions, please let me know. - Rock By the way, I too noticed the pivot pins are wobbly from loose rivets. I guess I will bring it back or send it in for a new one. I am thinking of picking up a #5 LH and see if thats any better. My treasurer will not be happy about that.
Just buy your treasurer a new car or diamond, works every time.
I still believe the best way to find problems with turnouts is with a test car. Actually you can test with just a loose truck with metal wheels. Put you index finger in the middle of the truck and run it back and forth through the turnout. You can feel the slightest imperfection. Some turnouts have too long a flangeway opening, the only cure for that is to replace those in problem areas.
Personally I don't like metal frogs. If the plastic spacer wears down only slightly you will get a short.
Many of the layouts seen on the net have turnouts on a curve. I have learned from experience not to do it.
I had a thread on how turnouts are designed on real railroads, but it's down due to needed clarification. Guess I better get it back up again. It was sort of a wasted effort as very few viewed it.
Bring that thread back up - "on real railroads' = interesting reading maybe.
HGC
Personally I go with Steam Gene .That is the problem I had with one of my turnouts . My solution was to make sure the turnout was firmly fastened to the base This took out the slight twist in the turnout.
Don
HGC
I am working on it. I have been researching and studying turnouts for over a year, and have come to the conclusion that most of them are poorly engineered.
For one thing the springs are very weak, so a train traveling with the points set in the wrong direction can still pass thru. The only way to keep the points tight against the stock rails is to use manual throws with strong springs. Wheel gauge is also very critical at turnouts.
I also think very few modelers run their trains at realistic speeds, and don't have their stock properly weighted.
I'll save the rest for my article.
Bob
Im kind of new to model railroading. Im only 12 yrs. old and I just got my Bachmann HO Thunderbolt a couple weeks ago. But anyway, I have no idea what a turnout is. Is it like a switch or what because I know how to operate a switch my brother has a HO Bachmann.
Please Help
-Cody L. Jackson
A switch is what you turn on to turn on the lights. Turnout is a railroad term for changing tracks.
Ok I was a little confused. Thanks
-Cody Jackson
I have a train the consist of 9 open hoppers and there really light weight and when i back them into my yard (over some turnouts) they derail, should I add weights?
Try it and see if it helps. Are the turnouts thrown into the correct position when backing into them? Try a few things, gently put weight on top of car without being hooked up to loco, push it through and see what happens. Make sure your track is laying flat and not binding. You will figure it out.
Does the very first one derail? Or do they derail after several cars have gone through it? Sometimes the turnouts have to be tweaked. You know a BFH and a crowbar. I had a LH turnout with derailments everytime, it was straight from the box. I did some car tests without the body on the car, figured out where it was derailing, and why, tweaked it just a bit. It works beautiful, no derailment since, forward or backward, with different cars, and different locos.
In a dictionary one definition of a switch is: "A device to transfer rolling stock from one track to another", in other words to "switch" tracks.
Turnout or switch, another case of semantics, either term is acceptable. I visited with MOW personnel in Wichita, they all referred to them as "switches".
T-Lloyd - I used to weigh my open hoppers to NMRA standards. I don't anymore. Because of their CG mine don't seem to need any extra weight. Check your wheel gauge.
Gene
the main ones that derail are 5 the rock hopper i bought off ebay, the wheels arent that good even though they are metal,they are a bit oval like and its usually the cars in the middle that derail
replace wheels
Gene