is there a decoder made for this loco?
Their is no direct board that I know of for the Bachmann Northern. The Northern itself has no board inside. You can how ever use a generic board for this. The only problem though is that it will have to be hard wired as the loco wasn't maded for plug-n-play. I don't know the number of the gerneric boaed that lenz makes that can be used but either someone who sells DCC boards can help you or someone here can asist you with what you'll need to know. Their is also some other brands that makes DCC boards but I'm not sure at this moment which one of those who make a hard wired generic board that can be used in your Northern.
Train Nutzzzzzz
Hi Alan
I have converted 8 or 9 locomotives, all steam, from the 2-8-8-2, 2-6-6-2, 2-6-2, 4-6-4 etc. and the hardest is the 4-8-4 Northern.
I've just finished converting one of two J class 4-8-4's. There is no room under the boiler cover for a board unless you mill of an awful lot of weight. The best method I have found is to place the decoder, ( I used the DZ143) in the cab and cut a channel between the two frame halves. Make sure you tape the motor off to prevent shavings from getting into the motor and causing a short. This allows the wires to lay flat and not cause the boiler cover to ride high or scrape off the insulation. Also cut a grove from the top of the frame to the opening for the motor. Again this allows the Orange/Gray wires to lay flat without getting in the way of the cover or having the insulation scored. Getting the brass contacts out of there is a real struggle. I opened the halves as much as possible and pulled them out. This way I could isolate the motor and not have to worry about accidental contacts and shorting out the decoder. Also I used the liquid electrical tape to coat the light compartment on the nose to prevent frame contact and again a short. I also used this to cover the contact points on the motor itself. Soldering the red/black wires to the frame takes some work, as it is very hard to get the frame hot enough to just solder the wire. I used the holes left over when I pulled out the original brass contacts and liquid solder. I Had to let it set over night to cure after I ran tests for programmability, direction and speed control, and lighting.
Hope this helps a little, good luck on your conversion
Dick
Dick
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