New member here, Not sure I am asking in the right place or not. My 6 year old son is a HUGE train fan, he has had all the little play(push) trains since he was 2. Well today we graduated up to electric trains, he was SO excited, We bought the Bachmann E-Z track system. After we put the track together, the light on the train works but the train itself will not run, I followed the instructions on trouble shooting, made sure track was together correctly, rechecked the wire hookup, made sure cable was plugged in right on the track. Let it set 5 minutes for breaker to auto reset (f that was the problem) but still will not run, any info or help would really make a 6 year old happy.
Was this a complete set? It would help to know what the locomotive is, brand, part number, steam or diesel. I'm guessing it's a DC controller and DC locomotive.
Since the light works, the track is getting power. If you turn the throttle up and down, does the light get brighter and dimmer? Listen as you advance the throttle to see if the motor is humming. If it is humming or buzzing, it is trying to do something. There might be something binding keeping the loco from moving.
There is a possibility of a short circuit somewhere. Turn the controller on, advance the throttle slightly and let it set a bit. If the controller overload protection trips, then look for anything that may be shorting out the track.
Check underneath the loco for any foam packing material that may be lodged in the mechanism. Also, see if each drive wheelset will move sideways a bit. All the mechanism should be fairly loose, so you can jiggle things. With your thumb, gently rock each driver wheelset forward and backward. With the gear reduction, you won't be able to actually rotate the wheels, but there is a tiny bit of play.
With the throttle at about 1/3, push down slightly on the loco and try to manually make it go forward. It's ok to let the wheels slide a bit. Try the same thing with the direction switch set to reverse. Don't force things, just give it a little assist.
There are more sophisticated ways to test the track and loco, such as using a digital volt-ohm-meter or 12 volt neon or led test light with probes, if you have access to such instruments, but we'll wait to hear your results.
I imagine your 6 year old is anxious to get it running, check a few things and report your findings. Other forum members will be in shortly to add their assistance. Let us hope the loco isn't defective, but it does happen.
Quote from: Yampa Bob on August 15, 2008, 10:31:19 PM
Was this a complete set?
Yes , bought the set today
Quote from: Yampa Bob on August 15, 2008, 10:31:19 PMIt would help to know what the locomotive is, brand, part number, steam or diesel. I'm guessing it's a DC controller and DC locomotive.
It is the EMD GP40 Diesel, with DC controller
Quote from: Yampa Bob on August 15, 2008, 10:31:19 PMSince the light works, the track is getting power. If you turn the throttle up and down, does the light get brighter and dimmer? Listen as you advance the throttle to see if the motor is humming. If it is humming or buzzing, it is trying to do something. There might be something binding keeping the loco from moving.
There is a possibility of a short circuit somewhere. Turn the controller on, advance the throttle slightly and let it set a bit. If the controller overload protection trips, then look for anything that may be shorting out the track.
Check underneath the loco for any foam packing material that may be lodged in the mechanism. Also, see if each drive wheelset will move sideways a bit. All the mechanism should be fairly loose, so you can jiggle things. With your thumb, gently rock each driver wheelset forward and backward. With the gear reduction, you won't be able to actually rotate the wheels, but there is a tiny bit of play.
With the throttle at about 1/3, push down slightly on the loco and try to manually make it go forward. It's ok to let the wheels slide a bit. Try the same thing with the direction switch set to reverse. Don't force things, just give it a little assist.
There are more sophisticated ways to test the track and loco, such as using a digital volt-ohm-meter or 12 volt neon or led test light with probes, if you have access to such instruments, but we'll wait to hear your results.
I imagine your 6 year old is anxious to get it running, check a few things and report your findings. Other forum members will be in shortly to add their assistance. Let us hope the loco isn't defective, but it does happen.
I will have to try these suggetions in the morning, it is in my son room and he is asleep., thanks for the help so far.
Dear Burly,
Try clearing you track or cleaning the locomotives wheels. But Bob may have your answer already. Oh, and welcome to the Bachmann Board. I came here when we just got Internet this year, and I saw the website on one my first Bachmann Set, and I was nosing around the site when I came across the boards.
I hope he loves his train set. I remember when I was 6 I got my first train set, but mine was a cheap Life-Like set, but from then on, I was hooked on model trains. I already like trains, but didn't know what model trains were. Well, have a good night.
Sincerely,
Josh B.
If the light changes (goes on and off) as you move the speed controller from stop to full speed and back, then you probably have motor problems inside the locomotive or possibly a bad power pack.
If the light stays on all the time as you move the speed control, then you may have the tracks connected to the accessory terminals of your power pack rather than to the track terminals. The accessory terminals, if present on a power pack, are for supplying ac for operating turnouts and building lights. But the ac cannot operate the dc motor that is inside the locomotive.
Note to Yampa Bob - If a locomotive has a dead (open circuit) motor, it will generally not draw enough power to drop the power pack voltage at the low speed end assuming a train set power pack with a rheostat speed controller. A typical headlight draws only 5 to 10% as much as the motor in these locomotives. So instead of the power pack voltage being reduced from say 12 to 2 volts (product of rheostat resistance and motor current), it is reduced only from 12 to 11 volts (one tenth the drop.) This small a voltage change has very little effect on headlight brightness. At stop, the arm of the rheostat disconnects from the resistive element in the rheostat and so no current output is possible, thus the headlight is off in this position. With an upgrade power pack that use a potentiometer and an electronic control element (typically a transistor), the lamp will indeed dim.
Thanks for the reminder. We had a "family" tragedy last week, and my mind is not quite back to par yet.
Yes, I had considered the possibility of an open motor circuit since the light was on. I don't know the probability of that happening on a new loco, but I suppose it is possible. I would consider such a condition on a new loco as defective. Hopefully he got the set from a local store that will replace it.
It's always frustrating for a father when he gets something nice for his son, and the silly thing won't work.
Try putting just the locomotive on the section of track that has the power connected directly to it and see if it moves. If it does and then stops, there is a very good chance that you have connected the roadbed and not the track. Run your finger over the top of the rail on EACH joint, BOTH WAYS. It should move smoothly. If it does not, you have a section of track resting on a track joiner, and not in the joiner. Fix it. Go to the next. Missing the rail joiner can happen to anybody. I just found one myself. :-\
Gene
OK sorry it took so long to get back at this.
Quote from: Yampa Bob on August 15, 2008, 10:31:19 PM
There is a possibility of a short circuit somewhere. Turn the controller on, advance the throttle slightly and let it set a bit. If the controller overload protection trips, then look for anything that may be shorting out the track.
Ok Tried that, but the power stays on.
Quote from: Yampa Bob on August 15, 2008, 10:31:19 PM
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Superscripto and try to manually make it go forward. It's ok to let the wheels slide a bit. Try the same thing with the direction switch set to reverse. Don't force things, just give it a little assist.
This did not help either
Quote from: Santa Fe buff on August 16, 2008, 12:11:39 AM
Dear Burly,
Try clearing you track or cleaning the locomotives wheels.
I hope he loves his train set.
I cleaned the tracks and it did not help. And he loves any and everything that is trains.
Quote from: Jim Banner on August 16, 2008, 01:00:18 AM
If the light changes (goes on and off) as you move the speed controller from stop to full speed and back, then you probably have motor problems inside the locomotive or possibly a bad power pack.
This is what it does, the light starts off, then gets brighter the more you turn the power up
Quote from: SteamGene on August 16, 2008, 09:00:56 AM
Try putting just the locomotive on the section of track that has the power connected directly to it and see if it moves.
Tried this and it does not make it run. I have taken the whole track apart and started over again, just to make sure.
Sounds like the locomotives motor is not getting any power. I'm doubtful there is a broken wire. There may be something faulty with the motor itself, and its possible something is lodged in one of the gear boxes preventing it from moving.
Bachmann has a warranty, but it may take a while for them to get the locomotive back to you.
If he is desperate (it may take 3+ months for them to get the locomotive back to you),
http://trainworld.com/closeouts_blowouts_clearance/clearance_ho.htm, Item numbers 23550, and 23719, are excellent locomotives, and should not have any problems, yet are still fairly cheap.
Reading the paper work that comes with it, it states to not take it back to the store, but to bachmann itself. Does this sound right? Brand new set and will have to wait possibly a couple months to be able to use it?
Also wanted to add, that I get 17.89 volts on the track with the controller on full.
I have never seen any Bachmann warranty that says you can't return it to the dealer for service or replacement.
If it was my loco, I would ask the store to replace it. Then they can send it to Bachmann and wait the one or two months for a replacement. If they won't replace it then your only option is to send it to Bachmann, but I would be looking for another dealer for future purchases.
Don't let the dealer give you some sob story about not being set up to handle repairs, replacements or refunds. At a local hobby store, you probably paid full retail. It should be his problem not yours. If the dealer wants your repeat business, he will take good care of you. (and your 6 year old who must be disappointed as well)
I recently received a defective loco from Caboose Hobbies in Denver. I called them and they said send it back to their store. Within 3 days, I received a replacement, shipped at their expense, they even gave me a refund for my shipping cost.
When I called to express my thanks, I asked about the shipping refund, which is unusual. The response was "Why should you be out any money, it wasn't your fault?".
Burly, if you have to send it back to Bachmann anyway, they will not void the warranty if you remove the body from the chassis and do some investigation. You may find the problem and can fix it. It sounds like you have a volt-ohm-meter and know how to use it.
The members here will gladly walk you through the troubleshooting. I feel you have nothing to lose and everything to gain, including valuable experience. If you can fix it, you will be a real hero to your son, every father enjoys that. My kids used to tell their friends "My Daddy can fix anything". Wow, that created a challenge for me. But that is your decision.
A little update:
I first want to thank everyone for the help, this seems like a very friendly place, will have to stick around. Bob it was not the stores paper work that stated to not bring it back to the store, it was the Bachmann paper work that came with the train set. Any way, I went and returned it with no problems, but it was the only one they had, so now we are having to wait and see if they get any more in soon. In the mean time I am going to look around online for anything. Anyone have any good suggestions for a good starter set, or is the one we got a good starter? BTW Bob, I really can use a volt meter, I am an electrical contractor ;) Any more input from anyone on the set we bought or any other good starter kit would be great. And yes, my poor 6 year old is on the sad side right now.
Hello Burly : 17.78 volts seem to be a little high . Are you sure the track was connected to the DC output of the transformer ? The DC voltage is normally 12 Volts , and the AC output normally 16 to 18 volts. You will find many interesting starter sets from Bachmann . Better Luck with the next set you acquire . Sometimes less than perfect product gets out , happen to be a Q.C. Inspector .
The rated DC output at full throttle is from 15 to 18 volts depending on the controller, with no load. 12 volts is the nominal voltage when the loco is running at full throttle. My 15 volt pack actually meters 13 volts with one loco, I know from tests that the loco only draws .20 amp with no cars.
Burly,
You said you returned it, so I assume you got a full refund. If so, that's great, now we can start fresh by providing some information.
The cheaper Bachmann starter sets come with steel track on black roadbed. Steel is a good conductor, but subject to rust and corrosion. So for starters, the preferred EZ Track is nickel silver on gray roadbed.
Since I enjoy spending other people's money, I suggest you buy separate components and make your own "set".
Bachmann makes a great line of diesel locomotives in DC. The GP40 and GP38 with 8 wheel drive are available in many popular road names, street price less than $40.
If you buy from a local dealer, have them test run the loco on their track before buying. If they don't have a test track, or aren't willing to test it, and don't promise to take it back if it doesn't run at home, find another dealer.
To make a simple 56" X 38" oval, you need 12 curved 18" radius sections, 3 straight sections and one straight terminal section. Add a Bachmann basic power pack and you're ready to roll.
Add freight cars of your choice. Kids like the gondolas and flat cars as they can load small cars and toys on them. Of course he will want a caboose. When selecting cars, be sure they have metal wheels. Some cheaper cars have plastic wheels that can dirty up the track.
By using the Bachmann EZ track and controller system, everything is plug and play. Put it all on a 64" X 42" piece of 1/2" plywood, doesn't take up much space, and it can be slid under his bed.
There are a bunch of starter sets available. Bachmann makes many that are available on this website. Price depends on DCC and size. Micro mark has a deal right now for the bachmann track pack, DCC starter and engine and cars for just under $200.00. Bachmann has several basic set as well as the acela and some steam engine freight and passenger sets. Athearn and Walthers have decent starter sets as well.
You don't have to buy a set if you know what you need. If there is something you want you can order track and power pack from bachmann and order engine and rolling stock from various places as well as your local hobby shop. Have fun in the hobby with your son.
You might try this site:
http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/TSO/CTGY/Bachmann
3/4's down the page is the Digital Commander Deluxe set HO 00501 at $ 173.00
I think this is a good set as it is DCC - and you get two engines that you can run at the same time
easy introduction to DCC - great starter set.
I have grandchildren that enjoy the visit and my 14 year old takes over and runs three 2 DCC and one DC. She enjoys keeping them all going at the same time.
Good luck and enjoy
HGC
Thanks for all the great suggestions keep them coming. Ok, now I am going to show just how little I do know, What is DC and DCC? :-\ My son had always been happy with his push trains, he has container after container of these types, can not even hardly walk in his room. But then my Aunt cleaned out her attic after her husband passed, and there were 4 box's of trains and parts, not sure how old they are but the news paper that they were wrapped in was from 1962. Any way, my son going through those box's is all that it took.So now while I try and get the old system to run I told him we would get him a litle set, so that is where we are now.The old box's had all kind of things in them, from engines to cars to buildings, a little bit of track, etc. Looks like I have some home work to do.
DC stands for Direct Current. You can run two locos, but you don't have individual control over each one. You either run them both, or stop them both.
DCC is Digital Command Control. Each loco has a decoder you can set to a different address, say one loco on address 1, another on 2, etc up to 9 with the Bachmann EZ Command. More advanced systems allow up to 9,999 addresses.
Well I knew DC was Direct Current for electrical but I figured it was a train slang ...lol...thanks for the education
Burly
Sorry about that, just wanted you to know that it is not a train slang thing, and you did ask LOL.
DCC is popular today, but it is not the wherewithal of model railroading. All my locos are DCC decoder equipped, but they are compatible with DC , and I run DC power most of the time.
If you wanted to buy a Bachmann diesel loco DCC equipped now, it would only cost you another $10 or so. Then if and when you decide to switch to DCC power, you're all set.
If you bought a standard DC model, converting it to DCC later would cost about $20, plus all the work of isolating the motor, soldering in decoder wires. I leave that to those who enjoy pain. :D
As for the controller, I would just stick with an inexpensive Bachmann DC controller for now. That's a no brainer way for your son to start.
Selecting a DCC controller requires a lot of thought and research. They are rather expensive, and so many models from which to choose, from entry level EZ Command at about $80, up to hundreds of dollars for full featured units that can program CVs (configuration variables) and other features. It's not something to rush into.
I don't give a hoot about programming CVs, so I have the Bachmann EZ Command controller. Very simple learning curve (7 page manual).
Obviously I'm a big time Bachmann fan. I think they are the best bang for the buck, and the locos have a lifetime warranty.
If you have any more questions, concerns or doubts, don't hesitate to ask. All we can do is toss out options, it's your railroad (and your money).
Unfortunately, starter sets are - starter sets. For Bachmann, look for SPECTRUM. It's possible you bought an old set, made before they went for quality.
Do you have a place to set a 5x10 table for a train empire? Or a 4x8?
Gene
The higher quality spectrum equipment is a bit more expensive but may last longer. I am not sure if he wants a "steam train" or a "diesel train." Perhaps you could find out.
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?Scale=HO&Item=160Set&offset=25&ID=200427306
Atlas makes Trainsets much like Bachmann's in appearance, but with somewhat better
running qualities.
http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=37256
This set is cheaper than the Atlas ones, and the engine's running qualities are just as good...
http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=&products_id=64874
Athearn also makes decent trainsets
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?Scale=HO&Item=rdpohg&ID=200414380
Lastly, bachmann makes "On30" trains that are the size of Lionel, but run on HO track. You're son might be able to handle them easier.
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPECTRUM-ON30-OHIO-RIVER-WESTERN-TRAIN-SET-25013_W0QQitemZ190243354934QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item190243354934&_trkparms=72%3A1072|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14
This ebay seller has a HUGE selection of train stuff, which comes with a warranty, unlike any other seller on ebay.
He started out with a diesel in the set, probably the best for a 6 year old. Most of the diesels are very colorful.
Imagine finding 4 boxes of trains almost 50 years old! I'd like to see some pictures of the locos and buildings. I think we are seeing the start of another father/son railroad empire. Isn't it great?
Guilford,
Thanks for the diffirent sites to check out, it looks like I have some homework to do.
Bob,
I will see about getting the box's out and take a few pics of the old trains and buildings, might be awhile
before I do, Back is screwed up (have an MRI scheduled for Monday AM) But as soon as I an I will.
Quote from: SteamGene on August 16, 2008, 10:28:29 PM
Do you have a place to set a 5x10 table for a train empire? Or a 4x8?
Gene
Do not really have a very big spot to work from right now, will be just what we can fit in his room, I am
going to wait and make sure how interested he really is, then I plan to build a building (shed) in the back for him.
i just made this account to answer you because that happened to me once to. i think your problem might be the power wires from the trucks cause that was the problem on my F45. head light worked and all but no movement, i checked the inside and found a wire that had snaped off the power pick up, sodered it back on and it works fine now. i hope this helps you a bit.
Chris
Actually, Bachmann 0n30 trains are more the size of the old
American Flyer S-scale trains. They are smaller than full size
0-scale trains just as in the real world narrow gauge
equipment is smaller than full size standard gauge equipment.
But that is not the reason why I would not recommend them
for youngsters. They tend to be delicate because of their
fine detail. And putting them on the rails is harder than with
H0 trains. Young hands rarely have fully developed fine
motor skills, which is why they have less trouble with large
flanges, large wheels, and round profile track as are found
on Lionel and other 0-27 trains. The smaller wheels of H0
and tiny wheels of N, together with their smaller, close
fitting, square headed rails, can be difficult even for adults.
Putting those small wheels under a larger car body where
they are hard to see and impossible for a small hand to hold
when reaching over the car from the top is a sure route to
frustration.
In my opinion, if the child has better than average small motor
skills, an H0 train set together with a rerailing ramp is
a good choice. But don't buy by price alone. The cheap four
wheel pickup, four wheel drive locomotive still found in all too
many train sets is another source of frustration for child and
adult both. It becomes nearly impossible to keep the tracks
clean enough to enjoy running the trains. A decent eight
wheel drive, eight wheel pickup locomotive is a must.
If the child has problems handling small items, he will have
problems handling an H0 train. Some children just develop
their small motor skills later than others. Thinking back to my
own childhood, at the age of seven, I had problems rerailing
my MARX trains (similar in size to Lionel trains) but I could do
it. Turned out I was a late bloomer and did eventually develop
the dexterity to work on cameras, fine electronics, etc. But I
for one would have been unable to deal with H0 trains at that age.
Bottom line, select the trains to suit the child.
Burly, some good starter sets are the mickinley explorer, and the special forces. each for less than 70$(when i got them) another good set but more pricey, is the Overland Limited. very good starter steam set. Good Luck.