I'm switching over to DCC. I ordered Bachmann decoders but when I opened the loco, I was confused on how to open to the motor and do the install. Anyone done this install and can pass along some helpful hints.
If you have the DCC Ready version
Run the locomotive per the break-in instructions and clear up any issues that may arise.
Now install the decoder
• remove the shell
• remove the jumper plug (or the two wire 3-pin jumpers) from the 8-pin socket
• insert the 8-pin plug on the decoder’s wiring harness in the socket matching the #1 pin to the #1 socket hole.
• Test run â€" if all OK then place the shell back on.
Much more work if you have one of the older non-DCC Ready version.
Hi Calog,
I have one of the 'older models' Hunt referred to. It's a great runner, heavy and a good puller but if you have the older model, you may want someone like Tony's Train Exchange to install it for you, if it can be done.
Mine was an 'undec' model and when I removed the shell for painting and detailing, it seemed to me that just about every possible space inside the shell was filled with the cast, molded, weight chassis that encloses the motor.
There may be room for a decoder in there somewhere. I have a BLI steamer and looking at it, I can't imagine getting a decoder that size inside the old style Spec FHph.
Hope yours is one of the 'DCC ready' models that Hunt describes. Best wishes on getting it changed to DCC.
lanny nicolet
Calog, Hunt and Lanny know what they are talking about. However, if you must, I am new at this model railroading too but I did change, just so happens, a non DCC Spectrum F40PH to DCC. You may find it cheaper to buy the DCC Spectrum F40PH. You have to remove the old light circut board "plus" the strobes, if it has them. Then purchase a new board with strobes from Bachmann (10.00 US plus 5.00 US shipping). You will have to remove some material from the old frame, bearing in mind that the old frames have to remain insulated from each other. This can be done if you have the time, patience and a micro milling shop (Dremel tool, hacksaw, etc). Work it until you get a good fit. If you want sound, then a lot more patience, time involved. I did it just to see if I could. I won't do it again! Use standard procedures for connecting the circut board to the motor and lights. The strobe board is already connected to the main board. I don't know if this helps, but Jim Banner and SteamGene can give you a lot more assistance in this area if you need it. Stephen
As it happens, I helped a friend do two of these just a couple of weeks ago. They were VIA Rail, so did not have the strobe lights. Without the lighting board, there was lots of room for a Digitrax DH123 decoder with no frame modification.
If your locomotive has a strobe, the DH123 can handle that. All you need is an LED for the strobe and a resistor to limit the current to the LED - no extra boards required. Just use the white and blue leads for the headlight and the yellow and blue leads for the strobe. If you wish to retain the rear light, you could instead use a DH143 decoder which has 4 outputs. You could then use the 4th output for a cab light, which is a nice touch when the train is stopped in a station. You did not mention which DCC system you are using. Some can program the required CV's, some cannot. In the latter case, a friend or your local hobby shop may be able to help with the programming.
As far as accessing the motor, the B'mann F40PH is a typical split frame locomotive where each half of the frame is part of the circuit from wheels to motor. The link below will take you to an article which details a decoder installation in a similar locomotive.
http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/tmaster/tmaster.html (http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/tmaster/tmaster.html)
Thanks for the replys, but since I'm new to this, I decided to sent the units to Tony's Exchange. The price was reasonable and I can start will simplier installations.