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Discussion Boards => General Discussion => Topic started by: #94 on December 11, 2008, 10:54:46 AM

Title: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: #94 on December 11, 2008, 10:54:46 AM
Building a wood trestle for my Bachmann trains.
I am considering the "Chopper" by NWSL. Has anyone used this type of tool for cutting 1/8" hardwood dowels. If the blade and handle will cut this hard material it will save me the time of sawing dowels.

Other than the fine tooth craft/ modeling saw does anyony have a better idea? I have to cut 199 1/8" dowels for my 420' trestle.

Thank you.

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: pdlethbridge on December 11, 2008, 12:26:16 PM
I have one and use it to cut 1/8" basswood. It cuts fine and is very adjustable and it cuts great angles. Keep a supply of single edge razors on hand.

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: glennk28 on December 11, 2008, 09:55:20 PM
I have a small (2" diameter blade) "Chop Saw"--got it at Harbor Freight Tools for about $25 or so--Similar to one sold by Micro Mark, but much lower price.  Don't knopw if this "Toy Store" has an outlet in your area, but they also operate online.  gj

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: the Bach-man on December 11, 2008, 10:37:37 PM
Dear All,
I have both versions of the chop saw, and for a precision cut, there's no comparison- Micro-Mark all the way!
Happy Holidays!
the Bach-man

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: taz-of-boyds on December 12, 2008, 01:15:01 AM
I have the NWSL Chopper III.  I used it for cutting styrene shapes for a truss bridge I built.  It had a tremendous effect with all common length parts I had to cut.  I think it would have been impossible without it.  There is a price difference between the powered saw and the chopper.  But one or the other could make a big difference in your work.

Bach Man, how well does the power saw do on styrene?  Does it have a tendency to melt it?


PS, photos of bridge available:

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: grumpy on December 12, 2008, 01:29:51 AM
I use both NWSL Chopper 111 and the Micromarx 2" table saw. The choppper is great for soft woods and styrene. For hardwood and styrene I prefere the table saw.  Micro Mark have a sale on the table saw but it must be purchased over the internet. The ideal piece of equipment would be a band saw. When building G scale projects I use my band saw the most. Hope this helps. My wife says I own every tool known to man . Not true . I just found a new one and it will be in my workshop shortly.
Don ;)

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: Yampa Bob on December 13, 2008, 05:29:27 AM
With these you can cut any angle you need "on site". Check your local hardware store for better price.

Unless you order in special hardwoods, dowels available in hardware or lumber stores are made of "Ramin" wood, from the tropical forests.   

TIP: Always cut lengths about 1/64"-1/32" over, then sand to fit with 100 grit paper glued to a flat board with rubber cement.  The fingernail file boards sold in packs of 10 also work well, doublesided and cheap.

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: #94 on December 13, 2008, 08:23:54 AM
Mr. Yampa Bob you may be brilliant and "outside the box". So you are saying buy a pair of $16.00 Anvil "rose" pruners instead of a $175.00 Chop Saw for dowel cutting? So dowels are "Ramin" wood not hardwood but they are a hard wood?


Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: Woody Elmore on December 13, 2008, 09:45:59 AM
Hardwoods are from trees that lose their leaves - balsa is technically a hardwood. Conifers, like pine, hew, fir and hemlock, are softwoods.

Ramin is a hardwood from the Phillipines and Indonesia and is quite commonly used in furniture - it has a very white wood. Almost all the world's supply has been depleted and the tree is an "endangered species." It is harvested illegally in most countries.

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: Yampa Bob on December 13, 2008, 01:57:27 PM
I have used a similar pair for many years, cutting tiny dowels and balsa sticks for model airplanes. I keep the edge sharp with a small "Hard Arkansas" stone. 

The "anvil" is usually made of brass so it won't damage the blade. If you happen to have small trees on your property, they will double as a branch pruner.  :D

I might also suggest looking at the 12" long bamboo skewers at a super market. (used for "shish-kabobs")  They are slightly smaller, roughly equivalent to an 8" pole in HO scale. Cheaper and more convenient to use but very strong.  

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: pdlethbridge on December 13, 2008, 03:10:03 PM
And just think, you will be the first in your neighborhood with a Shish ka bridge

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: Yampa Bob on December 13, 2008, 03:17:34 PM
Awww gee, you left off the "bob".  :'(

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: pdlethbridge on December 13, 2008, 03:54:02 PM
shiska robert????

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: SteamGene on December 13, 2008, 05:27:56 PM
That's only for people who make over $250,000 a year and whose wife is a DAR. 

Title: Re: NWSL "Chopper"
Post by: Yampa Bob on December 13, 2008, 08:45:53 PM
I use the skewers for all kinds of modeling projects. Soaked in boiling water, they can be formed into tight curves for arch bridges. I even made several uncoupling wands by shaping one end. Keep away from children, the points are very sharp.

Another way to cut them is with diagonal side cutters ("dikes") and flush cutting end nippers.

BTW, precision flush cutting side and end nippers also work great on styrene. Say you need to cut a corner notch, just a couple snips, touch up with an emery board and it's done.

My old standby for cutting 90/45 angles in rods or other structural pieces is a small aluminum mitre box and razor saw. The "V" shaped teeth cut both ways, I use 52-54 TPI blades and cut on the pull stroke, one stroke usually does the job. Also handy for cutting railroad track.