I have a HO Bachmann Spectrum Union Pacific GP-30 shell that is about 6 years old. I want to transfer it to a current Spectrum GP-30 frame that has DCC on board. In order to do that I need to glue a couple of short styrene tubes to the bottom inside of the shell so that I can screw the shell to the frame. I have tried both styrene glue and CA and neither seems to adhere to the shell. Does anyone know what kind of plastic is used for the shell.
I called Bachmann and asked them but they acted like it was a dumb question. They said I would need to ask the Chinese! Surely someone at Bachmann must give the Chinese some sort of specs when they order something.
FYI. The older Spectrum shells snapped around metal ridges on the side of the fuel tank. The newer Spectrums have a screw on each side of the fuel tank that screw into the shell.
It is ABS, some styrene solvents work, some don't; read the bottle.
The real problem you are encountering is mold release residue on the inside of the shell. Swab the area with 70% IPA (medical alcohol) mixed 50-50 with distilled water, then flush (not dip) with lots more warm/hot (100°F to 120°F) distilled water. Keep the IPA away from the paint.
Regarding your comment about doing business in China, sounds like you have not, if you had you would understand.
Another solution is Testors tube glue and plumber's glue for ABS pipe. Put some Testors on the styrene tube, then put some plumber's glue on the inside of the shell using a Q-tip. Quickly bring the parts together, move them around a bit to mix the glues, and let set overnight. Messy, but forms a very strong bond.
I use Testors "Model Master" #8872 liquid cement, labeled for styrene and abs. For proper bonding apply pressure for about 15 seconds. Precision applicator is ideal for small detail parts.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHN86&P=7
I use simple Testors Glue. I use the Non-Toxic version for many reasons. The blue-tube plastic cement sounds ABS compatible since I used it to mend several Bachmann, Athearn, and Life-Like body parts. Although the tip isn't very 'pointy', you can easily (and cheaply...) buy extenders to put on the end for more precise application. When I apply handrails, I gently apply pressure to the tube until I have half a bubble sticking out the end of the tube. I then dab the handrail ends that fit into the sockets on the body in that. It usually takes about a few hours for maximum effect, but can only take up to 20 second of pressure for certain jobs.
For small job (Broken handrail repair, parts re-application, and damage truck body) I use a Testors Plastic cement that is for lighter jobs. Apply this very hazardous liquid via a brush supplied onto the two parts. If they have some sort of resistance in them, give them 20 seconds before pushing together. If no resistance, simply apply and wait. This thats a few hours as well.
Joshua