I am the first to admit that I am new to alot of Model Railroading. I have a Bachmann DCC layout with EZ track grey roadbed and also have a run using Atlas track code 100. I would like to put in some uncouplers for both sets of tracks and would like to have automatic uncouplers if such a critter exists. I see some types of uncouplers on Ebay and not for sure how they work. If I remember correctly years ago there was a uncoupler type track that had 2 narrow wires between the track that when you stopped the car over it and I think you had to back up the train a bit and they go forward, the car would uncouple.
I would like to know if there are any automatic uncouplers that I can get where they may be activated from my control panel where my transformers are. Or what kind of uncouplers are available that would work with my EZ track and atlas...........knowing the same kind may not work on both tracks due to the built in roadbed on the EZ Track.
What types of uncouplers do you folks use on your bench.
Thanks for any help you can offer
Larry
The knuckle-type couplers that have become the de facto standard for HO trains are based on a Kadee patent. The original Kadees uncoupled with a mechanical ramp. In the early 60's Kadee went to a magnetic ramp, the same design as is used today.
There are two basic uncoupling magnets. One is glued between the rails, and there is a variant that gets buried under the roadbed. These are permanet magnets that attract the "glad hands" that hang down from each coupler. IF there is slack in the couplers, the jaws will open and the cars will uncouple. The problem is that we can't always control exactly how much slack is in our couplers at any given time, and as a result, false uncouplings can occur. The second uncoupler is an electro-magnet that is buried in the roadbed. It is normally activated by a button on the control panel and will not cause false uncouplings.
There is also a DCC operated coupler that is sometimes seen on locomotives. It works by lifting the coupler enough to let the jaws slip over each other
There is another option. You can move around with your train, throw switches by hand, and uncouple manually. You'll feel more like you're operating your train. I use a McDonald coffee stirrer with the end filed to a point. A small screwdriver also works.
Hope this helps.
Rusty
The good old bamboo skewer works great too.
Do a search with the word 'uncoupler' = third box above.
Also "http://www.dccuncoupling.com/
Have fun
Harry
Harry, those look neat. Let's see - $70/car times 200 cars. Hmmm. I don't think so. But it does start a fellow to thinking ...
In the meantime, I'll stick to skewers and magnets.
Jim
I think a DCC uncoupler on engines, especially switchers, would be very useful.
But with the cost I don't know that it would be worth it for me. It also looks like it wouldn't fit in my 44 Ton switcher anyway, and I don't want to stick a permanent car to the front of it just for automatic uncoupling.
Fitting it to a dummy B unit though does sound interesting.
Thanks for all the info and sites listed. I did notice on the uncoupling site that you can only purchase cars with the auto uncouplers........did not see anything on the cost or availability of just the unit itself. I don'twant to have to purchase cars with the unit installed and like folks said at that price it is a bit on the high side.
Its a shame Bachmann doesn't make a uncoupler track or unit of some type I did not see any listed in the ez track section here.
The magnetic ones sound good that can be activated by a switch on the control panel.
Where can I find more on them and purchase options.
Doing a uncoupling unit myself.............self building is not a good idea for me............not the worlds greatest in doing that sort of stuff and prefer to buy ready made units if possible.
Will do some more looking.........................to bad they don't have units like the old 0 gauge track where you had a uncoupling unit built in the traack that worked via a magneti.
Manual uncoupling is not a good option for me as I have a hard time getting around my bench and prefer a automatic method of uncoupling cars.
Regards
Larry
Larry,
You can find info on Kadee uncoupling ramps here:
www.kadee.com
Also, the Walthers catalog is a good source of info on several different brands of couplers.
Sounds like your best bet is to glue magnets to the siding tracks where false uncoupling is not much of a problem and using the electromagnets on the main line.
Hope this helps,
Rusty
Quote from: BestSnowman on May 04, 2009, 09:47:27 AM
Fitting it to a dummy B unit though does sound interesting.
I'm thinking a cow/calf switcher set up would be slick.
Quote from: lwmlwm44 on May 04, 2009, 03:41:45 PM
Its a shame Bachmann doesn't make a uncoupler track or unit of some type I did not see any listed in the ez track section here.
Larry,
You will find the Bachmann under track u/c magnets in E-Z Mate couplers page 2. Can be used with both types of track.
Eric UK
Thanks Erik on the where the Bachmann items are ...........I looked there but must have missed them. These old eyes arn't what they use to be
larry
Hi Larry , Yes automatic uncouplers would be nice . It's on my list of projects to invent one . from a 24v solenoid .
Don't do what i did . And change your Layout .And forget to take the Magnet out from your 9" in straight piece . On 2 pieces i did this . I would be running my trains .And would have rolling stock uncouple . And frustrating . Learned alot about gauging couplers .Changing them out .Turning cars around .To try and fix this problem .
I was doing some switching yesterday .And was watching my 70ton Switcher . And saw the the front coupler swing . I couldn't believe my eyes . Ran it around the layout again .And sure enough . I pulled the 9" straight up .And there was the magnet. Low and behold fixed my problem . I even went as far as to remove , A few of my cars . The life of this Hobby and i love it ....regards mark f
Opps .I do have the Magnets in , whats going to be my coal yard and wood pulp mill . For switching purposes . The Magnets that were giving me problems .Were in the Mainline of my layout . And i have just been toying around with a 24v solenoid off a 120v step down transformer. Attempting to see if it will work . And also trying to modify a Lionel automatic uncoupler . I just had some laying around ...
trains with no shame, may I suggest buying one Kadee electric uncoupler? I think you are on the right track with solenoids and Lionel uncouplers, but having one Kadee version in hand would give a lot of information about the length of the pole pieces and their spacing. Too far apart and they don't produce a strong enough field to pull the glad hands outward. Too close together and they pull the glad hands down but not apart.
Jim
0:06
Hi Mark
The first link is what the Kadee unit look like.
Some people are using a permanent magnet mounted under the layout that they push into position with a rod so there is no false uncoupling. They then pull on the rod to retract the magnet.
The Kadee uses quite a lot of current, the reason for the electroincs you see in the diagrams.
http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3344
http://cs.trains.com/trccs/forums/p/148407/1645911.aspx
Rich
Good links, Rich. One of them had a posting about Kadee magnets affecting his cabooses. Perhaps the poster had not heard of brass axles with Delrin wheels (Walthers wheel sets) or Delrin axles with nickel-silver wheels (Kadee). Both of these are non-magnetic as are lead weights to replace iron ones in cabooses. Making cabooses non-magnetic stops uncoupling magnets from pulling them forward, causing false uncoupling.
Kadee electromagnet uncouplers can be quite noisy on ac. Kadee suggests operating them on dc to prevent this. This can be easily done with a bridge rectifier and a capacitor. If the capacitor is large enough, it will actually boost the current as the capacitor will charge to 1.414 times the RMS value of the ac being rectified. (Without the capacitor, the current will probably be less than on ac.) Most important, it will not shake the caboose and spill the conductor's soup.
Jim
0:11
I found that in a search and what interested me was the electrical stuff that is included. I have heard of the uncoupler but never bought one to see what it is like. I also found some search results that a few people thought the uncoupler worked better with DC than AC.
The push button is important as it is easy to overheat the magnet. Some people have had tried to use a higher voltage which can cause problems.
Remember those days when we thought our car needed more power?
Rich
You know I was having alot of problems with Cabooses . I got the literature , out on the Decoupling magnet . There was a note "Regarding Steel Axles" on the EZ Mate Couplers .
Wheel sets with steel axless may interfere with the proper operation of any magnetically operated coupler system .Cars with steel axles tend to be drawn toward ,and then held, by under track magnets .To test for steel axles , just place the car near the under-track magnet and see if it is drawn toward the magnet ..If it is , replacement of the wheel sets containing the steel axles is recommended for best operation .
I have noticed also that ,some of the cars I have . Have plastic wheels , and plastic axles . Which really hamper in operation ... I will eventually replace these trucks and wheel sets...
I have been working , with 4 9" straights on my work bench together . Trying to come up with an uncoupler .
As with the Lionel Uncoupler . I was having problems with position and direction . And the coil would not fit into the 9" straight . Along with the center rail , that i cut down . I was just basically proping it up under the road bed . I'm glad the 9" black 4 packs are cheaper, than the nickle silver . I've went threw 5 pcs . Cutting and working with them trying to get this to work . I do believe you are right about lengths and draw .
Also thanks for the Link and info on the kadee .I never thought about them . I saw them in the Walthers catalog . And I believe Larry's in Houston , has them in stock . I've got to go there tommorrow and pick up my 4-8-4 Sante fa .... regards Mark F
That's why in most remote switches . You use a single poll double throw center off switch . So you won't smoke your solenoid's . It is a momentary switch . Only sends current for a split second . works in both directions . That's what I'm using on my control Panel . I only wish I would have bought the bigger ones . I bought the Micro Mini Toggles peace to all mark f
I do see in the Walthers catalog . Item #380-309 pg 264 Electric Delayed Uncouplers . I had seen the 0 and H0n3. As I didn't know what the H0n3 scale was . So I went in the direction of trying to make one ."And still" but anyways . What I'm seeing is , I would have to cut a hole in my plywood for them to mount under the grey roadbed , with the EZ Track . Are these reliable . And the coil looks rather simple, but exposed . If these will work , then I guess I wont be able to get a patent . LOL . I will experiment . Thanks as I'm acquiring as much as i can , For what i want to do . Mark F hey Rich Thanks for the Links
I got this email ad from an ebay seller today:
"MTH HO Scale SD70M-2 & SD70ACe diesels in many, many designs including all of the Union Pacific HERITAGE Designs. These have remote activated operating couplers, a first in HO. These are due in very soon and are sure to be a sell out."
What are "remote activated operating couplers"?
Rick
I do not know how MTH operates their remote control couplers. Others have done this trick before, both with solenoids and memory wire, usually controlled by DCC.
I have long wondered about the usefulness of locomotive couplers that you can open by remote control, particularly on diesels. I mean, how often does a diesel drop a train and pick up another? Perhaps they might be of some use in helper service, although a pusher with a permanently open coupler works just fine at a much lower cost.
Remotely controlled couplers might be more useful in steam locomotives if you were modelling a division point where steam locomotives were changed regularly.
For switching service, being able to uncouple the locomotive is again of little help. If you are switching a train with a locomotive and 20 cars, there are 20 different places you can split the train. Only one of them is just behind the locomotive. So 95% of the time you would have to uncouple in the normal way anyway.
Jim
0:21
I have an "automatic" uncoupler; my wife sorts and sets up all our trains on the fiddle track. Our switcher never gets used, just pick them up and put them down where my wife wants them. :D
Bob, Amen! Kinda like my "automatic" dish washer. Dishes get dirty and I "automatically wash them! lol Stephen
Yep, been there. :D
RE: cabooses Back in the day when I was an n-scaler, microtrains couplers always seemed to have a lot of slack in them which caused a lot of false uncoupling over permanent magnet ramps. The very free rolling trucks only made matters worse. The common solution was to remove one wheel set, put a small spring over the end of the axle and put the wheel set back in the truck. The spring let the axle turn, but provided enough drag to keep the slack out. Should work just as well with HO.
Rusty