I was just planning to convert my 4x8 to dcc when my parents anounced we were moving. I am really excited beacuse my brother has agreed to give me 2 walls of the playroom for a layout, my plan is an "L" shelf layout or rather 2 2X8 boards and 1 2X2 in an L format. it will be a large layout compared to what i had befor not in terms of square footage but in terms of mainline space.
Great, isn't it exciting when you finally get to see a big or sizable layout take place as you've always dreamed? Have you thought of a track-plan, railroad, sub/area of said railroad, or a system to use?
Atlas' Right-Track freeware software is what I downloaded for all my track-planning needs, it works very nicely, and is good for the wallet, since it is free! When looking for the link, I noticed it's a new version, so right now, I'm downloading that. I'm anxious to see some possible improvements.
http://www.atlasrr.com/righttrack.htm
Keep us posted! Cheers!
Joshua
I would like to show my track plan, how do i do that if i made it in rts 8.0?
I would love comments from eperts
i am no expert, but i do know you can save your plan as both an rts file (which can be edited by right track) and a bmp file (which cannot be edited in right track.) i would advise every time you save a draft of your layout, save it as both types of file. i think the bmp versions are what everybody posts here.....
here is my current idea, any comment oor suggestions would be appreciated.
http://img365.imageshack.us/img365/8227/layout00.png
The lowest track on the siding to the right should bew lengthened to fit a loco and car. It looks too short. If lengthened, this will provide plenty of switching for your layout and allow for 2 operators, 1 mainline and 1 siding. Great start! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I see too much spaghetti and too little sauce... Yes, I am a food critic.
The track plan itself is a good start.
However, I think you are trying to cram too much track into the area you have for your layout.
Leave some room for buildings and industry. You have little room for a townsite or industrial site which is why your railroad exists. Not much room for scenery either.
I'm not an epert, but I believe gg is correct - this is classic 1940-1950 "spaghetti bowl" planning. Far too much track, so much it doesn't make sense. While I think you want sidings, what you have are two stub end yards. Get rid of half of the track. Make it run. Do some scenery. Play with it and go from there.
Gene
Quote from: Pacific Northern on May 13, 2009, 06:12:12 PM
The track plan itself is a good start.
However, I think you are trying to cram too much track into the area you have for your layout.
Leave some room for buildings and industry. You have little room for a townsite or industrial site which is why your railroad exists. Not much room for scenery either.
True, i always loved switching and i see this as a switching only layout. Correct me, some what industrial???
But...In my opinion, I would put an engine for each main yard and one of them could play the road switcher job or the main line engines do it. Again scenery is important. My opinion is a little different, Scenery makes a layout interesting :).Think of those huge basement layouts for example, You only see wood, tape, a train magazine(my 8X8 layout with scenery, i put it on my yard...lol) etc. but you put scenery, it tells a story. it makes you say " :o wow :o". and maybe that train magazine(again my fault :P) but it makes a difference. Either way enjoy!!!! ;) ;) ;)
I am modeling the nys&w. they were industrial. i might remove some sidings in the main section it is the odd looking yard i am concerned about.
i think your plan is just fine. i really can't see any track configurations that would cause you grief. i assume you'll be sticking with 4 axle diesels and 50' or shorter cars?
when planning your layout, what matters most is if YOU like it. what your operational interest is will determine how much emphasis you put on scenic elements. most of the layouts you see in the magazines emphasize scenery over operation. and some of their track arrangements are downright bizarre.
i think that the old school had it right on alot of things, layout design included. you have to pack things in tighter than you normally would see them in real life. you don't notice them when you are operating your trains, especially with friends.
I acctually will be operating 4 axle diesels and some steam.
Putting track everywhere won't make it industrial or more operationally interesting. You're using 20 switches, are you sure you want to spend all that money? Your tracks are awfully close to the edge, if something were to derail it would take a long trip to the floor.
Perhaps a more reasonable plan is to make the 2x6 extension a more workable yard, and have trains work around the rest of the layout, switching cars, while descending, eventually ending up in a staging yard beneath the main yard.
Another thing to consider is you'll be recahing over 4ft to throw a switch.
True that , GG. My friends layout is about 3.5 to 4 ft above ground. He has had about 3 or 4 locomotives fall off the edge and break. Its always good to have room between the outside rail and the edge of your layout.
a small edge wall of plexiglass solves that problem.
cement floors and trains are not a goob combination.
Still, its a good idea to leave 4" of space between the track center, and edge of layout.
Quote from: Guilford Guy on May 13, 2009, 11:29:08 PM
Still, its a good idea to leave 4" of space between the track center, and edge of layout.
This layout has rails adjacent to the edges of the layout on three sides, just asking for trouble. The rails are so close that you could not mount plexi guards on the edges of the layout. As mentioned just asking-waiting for expensive derailments.........
look closely at the plan. the part numbers are for atlas's roadbed style track. if the roadbed doesn't hang over the edge of the layout, there is enough room for an edge board. i should know, i've been building layouts for over 30 years.
one thing, given that the layout is designed for roadbed type track. using another library in the right track software, say the code 83 library, will allow you to get closer track centers, and at least in the yard areas you will have more room. if you do redraw the plan using another library, substitute #4 switches for the ones you currently have.
To maximize yard space on my small layout, I used all Atlas Snap Switches. The new design has a straight section after the frog, just like the numbered turnouts.
The new Snap Switches are very close to a true #4, the straight section allows direct connection of two turnouts with no S curve, and closer track spacing. Since the new design was released, there is no longer any advantage in using code 83, other than the more to scale appearance.
As for space from the track to the table edge, as long as the loco and cars will clear the railing exiting from the curve, any edge railing will work. I use anodized aluminum stair nose molding, which provides a one inch high rail.
Daylight,
As noted by others, you have drawn plan using True-Track. Are you actually going to use this system?
At top left there is no LH turnout on inner loop to connect to that on outer loop to form a second crossover. Using two LH crossovers you can only cross between loops in one direction of travel and to cross back you must reverse direction and back over a crossover.
To cross back and forth between loops you need a LH and a RH crossover.
Eric UK
Did not fit, I tried to but it didn't work, also the edge board will be bolted to the side and I will be using ez track.
(http://img365.imageshack.us/img365/8227/layout00.png)
Wow, some layout! I'm not adding anything more than what has been said, since it's already posted.
What industries are you planning? MR had an article on wiring multiple switch motors together, you may want to revise that article. It was featured in the May 2009 issue, if I'm not mistaken.
Joshua
Coal, grain, meats,wood , and general goods
specking of switches can bachmann controllers be replaced with dpdt momentary switches hardwired to the switch machine
Have drawn main loops using E-Z track. All turnouts are remotes.
(http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa1/damsonskin/EZ-Track.jpg)
Hope this helps.
Eric uk
i do't use 22 inch in my plans
Quote from: Daylight4449 on May 17, 2009, 04:51:14 PM
i do't use 22 inch in my plans
Why not? Trains will track better, and look better on wider radii.
those crossovers also cost a fortune.
True, $60.00 a pop, but that's MSRP...
Look here: http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/product_p/bac-44575.htm
Joshua
till too much for a kid who already is over 200 dollars short for a dcc conversion.
Been there, then I had Christmas, and then my Birthday... With the gift cards. I got mine for $200.00, but I didn't earn all of the money myself. I see your problem, though.
Good luck, and standard track is cheaper!
Joshua
Hello Everyone: ;D
Daylight, the layout is a good idea, but you have to remember when using 18" radius, you are limited to the freight cars you can use, also you have to be careful on how close each loop is.
see I listened to the people on this group, and their ideas have helped me through a lot of headaches.
I am using 26 inch and 33 inch radius curves on my layout, I am using code 100 because of the vintage HO scale stuff I like to run.
the main table is 6' x 10' with an L extension of 4'x6'
two main loops with sidings and the L area is for the shops and roundhouse.
still working on it, but the main loops are done.
as for track, there is a few places online that are cheap ridge road station is one place that's pretty cheap for e-z track
take care
George