Why make them Acela then, they look just like the passenger car of the 1990s! Why, probley to make more money on the Acela line, or offer slower transport, unless those engines top 90.

Probley just skilled, or has a real picture of his engine to look at.
If it bothers you, try to make your own detailed engine, just try, who knows? Adding enamel to an engine makes it more realistic, but is needed skill, whos to say it different, try to make your own, buy that engine- in stock form <you know with his face and other details on it.>- and add more details-

It's not skill, but knowledge, fun, practice, and learning the model.
Keep that in mind, I made it up, I think it means something. Don't let it bother you, some want a steam engine, but they don't know how to make it- same here, just show off your own skill, sencery or track, whatever it is.

That website idea isn't bad, we can turn it into every engine to make it better, ask bachmann, they might add it- maybe. Make your own website, that's the way to do it, just be ready to pay monthly fees.

Same as you guy say-and I noticed you did the math bob, wouldn't it be something to see GP38-2 go 4000mph! But it's only scattered if I don't use it for about 5 months min. But that won't be a problem, I recently got a bachmann track add-on kit, I'll be using it as a switch engine, now to ask bachmann something-
Can you guys put some rubber on your wheels? 8-wheel drive with traction will do use all good. Saves energy.
Now if Life-like would send me a better engine!
Had the set when little, broke it, got a new one, with the dummy not having any couplers, and they made it so you can't open it up like my first one! That's why I became a bachmann guy.

NICE, did you personally weather those, they are cool, I would buy them, But I prefer driving, or straight from the manufacturer. Like instead of buying a GP38-2 from Bachmann on Ebay, I would buy it here, if they had one. I rather just work with was avilible, instead of fishing on ebay for a hard-to-find engine. Nice job, I expect them to sell high.

Sound's like your coupler holder is too low, contact the service department to get some info, have them send a new engine- does it work then? If not, your car set needs to be fixed. Try to lower or higher the coupers or holders, if you fix it, forget about the sevice dedpartment then.
I'm pretty tapped out at this point...

My old Life-Like non-DCC engine, goes 100xs faster then a DCC engine. It pulls more, even when the DCC has a half layout start, the non-DCC beats it flat! What's up with that, werid....

Bach-Man is right, I checked the product search, nothing yet.

I'm not for N scale, but E-Z track switches, I am. Your locomotive may be stalling out on the plastic part of the rail on the switch, you could increase the locos. speed or power to make it over that, if that doesn't work, check your connections, if a conneter slide under another rail improperly, then electricity may not be getting to that section of track. I all connection are okay, then check your track or the rails. Are the rails competely inlinded, if they are just a little out of order- usaslly it's okay- but sometimes it's not, mostly with switches, if the engine enters the section of track okay but stalls. Then it could be track, try a test light on the section, if it lights up on the stalling part, then your okay, if not- your track should be replaced. This is not a threat of electricution, even with full power on the track, electricity can only be given out through a penny or something, even then, it isn't worse then a static spark, acculatlly less. The real electricity is inside the track. Your locomotive might also be the problem, Life-Like engines stall when they get older, but if their not Life-Like, then your engine may be at fault, call the service department of that engine and trouble shoot or something. Or take it into a local hobby dealer to see what they can do about it- That's all I have. -good luck.

Yeah, if only we could get bachmann to create a few things we're looking for........yeah, then life would be easy, just save a little from each check and that engine is yours, but no. Guess thats what brings in customers, having a specialty, like Con-Cor having the Areo-Train.

Mine stink:

1 life-like GP38-2/ num. 3500/ powered/ATSF-blue and yellow bonnet
1 life-like GP38-2/ num. 3600/ non-pwr/ ATSF-blue and yellow bonnet
1 life-like gondola/ ----- /  non-pwr/ Western Maryland-red w/ white let.
1 life-like gondola/ -----/  non-pwr/ Pennsylvania Railroad-black w/ PRR smb.
1 life-like EMD F7/ -----/ powererd/ Special NASCAR engine- bla. top w/ gray background, red outlined white strip with NASCAR logo inside.
1 life-like 20' boxcar/ -----/ non-pwr/ number 26 Irwin racecar decoration- blue with 26 on it, racing company, driver signiture.
1 life-like 20' boxcar/ -----/ non-pwr/ number 17 DeWaltracecar decoration- black with 17 on it, racing company, driver signiture.
1 life-like 20' boxcar/ -----/ non-pwr/ number 38 M&M racecar decoration- yellow with 38 on it, racing company, driver signiture.
1 life-like 20' boxcar/ -----/ non-pwr/ number 88 UPS racecar decoration- brown with 88 on it, racing company, driver signiture.
1 20' refridgerator/ -----/ non-pwr/ ATSF Super Cheif car- blander yellow w/ black lettering.
1 bachmann gondola/ 553557/ non-pwr/ Burlington Northern- green w/ white lettering.
1 flatbed/ MTTX 97566/ non-pwr/ trailer train- yellow w/ gray top.
1 life-like 20' boxcar/ 140185/ non-pwr/ ATSF- red w/ white lettering
1 life-like 20' boxcar/ 66392/ non-pwr/ Leigh Valley- dark green w/ white lettering.
1 life-like centered caboose/ 999851/ non-pwr/ ATSF- red with yellow detail.
1 life-like centered caboose/ -----/ non-pwr/ Special NASCAR caboose- black top, gray w/ red outlined white strip w/ NASCAR logo inside strip.
1 20' boxcar/ -----/ non-pwr/ Southern Pacific- Orange w/ white stencil lettering- design of boxcar likely from 1910s, example at link:
http://www.trainnet.org/Libraries/Lib016/BOX132.GIF but logo not on my boxcar...
1 life-like 15'? one opening tanker/ ACDX 68075/ non-pwr/ Allied Chemical, gray.
1 20' live stock car/ 47152/ non-pwr/ Katy, MKT railroad- yellow w/ black doors.
1 20' live stock car/ 15040/ non-pwr/ Chicago and Northwestern system- green and yellow.
1 20' refridgerator car/ -----/non-pwr/ Swift- red with white lettering.
1 20' boxcar/ 68330/ non-pwr/ Denver & Rio Grande Western- orange and silver w/ black lettering.
1 bachmann low open hopper car/ 352450/ non-pwr/ Southern- brown w/ white lettering.
1 bachmann EMD F9/ 307/ powered/ ATSF-red and silver bonnet.
1 bachmann non-centered caboose/ 999628/ non-pwr/ ATSF- red w/ yellow lettering.
1 spectrum by bachmann non-centered caboose/ -----/ non-pwr/ Amtrak- gray w/ black top and lettering.
1 spectrum by bachmann F40PH/ 306/ powered/ Amtrak- Phase II
1 spectrum by bachmann F40PH/ 316/ non-pwr/ Amtrak- Phase II
1 Athearn lounge visa dome 1 story/ -----/ non-pwr/ Amtrak- Phase IV
1 Athearn US mail car/ -----/ non-pwr/ Amtrak- Phase IV

I think they stink, but thats all folks!
Unless I missed one, but I can always modify!

Really? I didn't think Fn3 was a scale. Just like discovering Z scale.

So they do come with locos. Now I know, yet they should add it in instructions because I bought the Metor HO train set, and it came with instructions, but no wiring.

Is that your backyard, I wish I had that-On30 scale, right?

Factory error, or maybe plug, or maybe voltage, I GIVE UP, just get a new one, sell the other one to a sucker at a garage sale<or scrap get money for the usable parts> and get a new one-or even better- buy a set so you have more trains, track, and your controller. Oh, can you tell how much power the room was sucking up, it might of been an overload on the grid used in your house, happens if you have too many thing. Like when I have my light, TV, and train set on, when it hits 35, my TV starts to have poor picture. JUST GET A NEW ONE, it is already broke, so move on...just like when I broke my crossing, the train derailed and took out my crossing, I bought a new one. Yep, that easy...now to find a cheap 80 ton santa fe switcher or tonner.

A good idea is to include a wiring diagram in the instructions and if a single car with lights or engine is ordered, add the diagram to their instructions, if they don't have any, then make some, yet why wouldn't you include instructions anyway?