So which do I cut:

C1?

C2?

or both?

thanks,
Bob

I found a website the is installing a sound decoder into a 2-6-6-2. However, without any words they post a photo with 2 red arrows pointing towards the capacitors C1 & C2. Am I to assume that these need to be cut out?

http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/dcc/b-mann2-6-6-2/b-mann2-6-6-2.html

Thanks, & sorry to be a bother
Bob

SteamGene: you said: ""You can cut one leg and bend the capacitor away, or cut it off completely.""

I cut off the one nearest the 8 pin in the climax & it runs 99% better. I had to make it think it was 128 tho in order to run a bit more like 100%.

In the 2-6-6-2, I have 3 capacitors: C1, C2 & a 3rd one with no markings avalible. The 3rd one is connected to the orange & red wires that go into the 4 pin plug to the locomotive itself. Which one do I cut?

C2 is closest to the 8 pin plug in this case.

If it helps, I can snag a photograph & post it here to better explain what I'm trying to ask.....


Thanks,
Bob

my climax will drag an unpowered proto 2K locomotive.

I love it Getting a decoder with sound was difficult tho. TTE told me they could get a decoder, but not sound. I'll have to snag a few photos of mine with a sound decoder. Cutting out C1 fixed the stalling issue

Bob

feeling dumb. Do I cut C1 or C2 in the 2-6-6-2........There's a 3rd capaitor tho
connected to the red & orange wires.

Bob

so this'll stop the jerky, annoying cutting out while trying to run?

thanks,
Bob with cutters in hand, poised for cutting?

clipped out entirely, or just one leg?

& would that work for the 2-6-6-2 as well?

Thanks,
Bob

hello,

I recently purchased 2 MRC mini-DCC (with speaker) steam sound decoders.

One went in my HO scale 2 truck Climax, & the other went in my 2-6-6-2 W&LE Mallet. They both sound great BUT.....

They both run about 3 inches & stop. 2 seconds go by & they jerk to life again, only to stop short. They do this at all speeds.

Someone said to fix this promblem, I must cut a capaitor off the main board. Then they pointed to the "yellow things" on the boards. What I want to know is, can someone please post an image of what exactly I'm supposed to cut off the main DCC board so that I don't screw up & cut the wrong thing? These decoders fit & sound so perfect for the locomotives. I'd hate to think I wasted money again :S

Thanks,
Bob

Question: Can I get a flanged driver for the main center of the 2-10-2?

Z

is there a link to these rollers?

Thanks,
Bob

Funny you should say that Rich. as the price tag of $1600 bucks is simply too much for a "toy". So I decided to build my own.

I have several stacks of actual blueprints on the very locomotive. The darn prints are about 20ft long O.o. I live up here still, in st. albans, the very stamping grounds of the old beasts, so getting photos or blueprints are quite an easy thing

Thanks,
Bob

Looking for a test track setup I saw at a train show once. The guy had a 2-10-2 bachmann on the stand & running in place. I'd like to find one of these things for displaying my stuff at shows & at home.

Thanks,
Bob

I got mine from a guy on Ebay.

His stuff is here: http://toys.search.ebay.com/_HO-Scale_W0QQcatrefZC12QQfrppZ25QQsacatZ19128QQsassZyardbirdtrains


Bob

Oh, silly me, I forgot the / in the end brackets

Here's the other 3 images since I see that the forum automatically resizes the images







Thanks,
Bob

trying too. Don't have as much free time as I used too.. Altho I think I'll stay with what I have so far, because it operates on my 24'' raduis curves just fine. I would hate to tinker & screw that up.


Bob