Hi Alan
I have converted 8 or 9 locomotives, all steam, from the 2-8-8-2, 2-6-6-2, 2-6-2, 4-6-4 etc. and the hardest is the 4-8-4 Northern.
I've just finished converting one of two J class 4-8-4's. There is no room under the boiler cover for a board unless you mill of an awful lot of weight. The best method I have found is to place the decoder, ( I used the DZ143) in the cab and cut a channel between the two frame halves. Make sure you tape the motor off to prevent shavings from getting into the motor and causing a short. This allows the wires to lay flat and not cause the boiler cover to ride high or scrape off the insulation. Also cut a grove from the top of the frame to the opening for the motor. Again this allows the Orange/Gray wires to lay flat without getting in the way of the cover or having the insulation scored. Getting the brass contacts out of there is a real struggle. I opened the halves as much as possible and pulled them out. This way I could isolate the motor and not have to worry about accidental contacts and shorting out the decoder. Also I used the liquid electrical tape to coat the light compartment on the nose to prevent frame contact and again a short. I also used this to cover the contact points on the motor itself. Soldering the red/black wires to the frame takes some work, as it is very hard to get the frame hot enough to just solder the wire. I used the holes left over when I pulled out the original brass contacts and liquid solder. I Had to let it set over night to cure after I ran tests for programmability, direction and speed control, and lighting.
Hope this helps a little, good luck on your conversion
Dick
Dick
0
I have converted 8 or 9 locomotives, all steam, from the 2-8-8-2, 2-6-6-2, 2-6-2, 4-6-4 etc. and the hardest is the 4-8-4 Northern.
I've just finished converting one of two J class 4-8-4's. There is no room under the boiler cover for a board unless you mill of an awful lot of weight. The best method I have found is to place the decoder, ( I used the DZ143) in the cab and cut a channel between the two frame halves. Make sure you tape the motor off to prevent shavings from getting into the motor and causing a short. This allows the wires to lay flat and not cause the boiler cover to ride high or scrape off the insulation. Also cut a grove from the top of the frame to the opening for the motor. Again this allows the Orange/Gray wires to lay flat without getting in the way of the cover or having the insulation scored. Getting the brass contacts out of there is a real struggle. I opened the halves as much as possible and pulled them out. This way I could isolate the motor and not have to worry about accidental contacts and shorting out the decoder. Also I used the liquid electrical tape to coat the light compartment on the nose to prevent frame contact and again a short. I also used this to cover the contact points on the motor itself. Soldering the red/black wires to the frame takes some work, as it is very hard to get the frame hot enough to just solder the wire. I used the holes left over when I pulled out the original brass contacts and liquid solder. I Had to let it set over night to cure after I ran tests for programmability, direction and speed control, and lighting.
Hope this helps a little, good luck on your conversion
Dick
Dick
0